r

.

G-entLeman of Japan

NARRATIVE

OF THE

VOYAGE OF H.M.S. SAMARANG,

DURING THE YEARS 1843-46 ;
EMPLOYED SURVEYING THE ISLANDS OF THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO ;

ACCOMPANIED BY A UK IE I?

VOCABULARY OF THE PRINCIPAL LANGUAGES.

tmter fye 8tttl)0rttji at tfje ILattfS
at fije •sfljmtraltjj.

BY

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, R.N., C.B.,

F.R.A.S., F.G.S., &c.

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.

WITH

NOTES ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS,
By ARTHUR ADAMS, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, R.N.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
REEVE, BENHAM, AND REEVE, KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND.

1 848.

REEVE, BENHAH AND REEVE,
rRINTKRS AND PUBLISHERS O;' 8CIE.\TIFIC
K1XG WILLIAM STHEKT. STRAND.

College
Library

DS

CHAPTER XI.

JAPAN AND LOO-CHOO.

Approach Nangasaki — Escorted by numerous guard-boats — Permission
to land — Observations effected — Deputation of the Chiefs to the
Ship — Numerous visitors — Japanese customs and habits — Legal
suicide — Dress of superior class — Swords, Boats, &c. — Fortifica-
tions of Nangasaki — Batteries of the Cavallos — Approach the
Ship — Interesting interview — Reflections on Japan and the
Japanese — Extracts from the Voyage of the 'Morrison' — Leave
Nangasaki — Gig swamped and loss of valuable Instruments —
Arrival at Loo-Choo — Excursion into the Interior — City of Sheudi
— Napa — Pootsoong — Entertained by the chief Mandarins —
Ramble through the town — Japanese Ship-building — Collegiate
institutions — Want of cleanliness and attention to dress — Diet —
Produce of the market — Presentation of a curious document de-
nouncing the system of Surveying.

ON the 1st of August, we took our departure for Japan,
steering a course for the Gotto Islands, which we passed
on the night of the 5th August, and then shaped our
course direct for Nangasaki, with the^hope that the Au-
thorities of Japan might be able to afford us supplies of
fresh provisions, until I could ascertain from the court
whether any chance existed of my being able to land,
or whether they would hold out any prospect of sup-

VOL. II, B

1005127

APPROACH NANGASAKI. [1845.

plies, should I find it either necessary, or politic, to
repeat my visit the ensuing season. Our progress,
however, was retarded by calm and variables in the
morning, and it was not until 8 o'clock that a favour-
able breeze sprang up, carrying us slowly along the land,
and enabling us leisurely to contemplate the scenery
before us. The forbidding aspect of the sea features
were agreeably relieved by the successful efforts of the
cultivators of the soil, who carried their terraced gardens
up the sides of, apparently, the most barren hills, pre-
senting the appearance of steps to pyramids : from
whence they derive water for the irrigation of these *
gardens, is yet problematical. As we continued to ap-
proach the Port of Nangasaki, the common fishing and
trading vessels were succeeded by the gay official, or
guard boats, despatched to reconnoitre so unusual a visi-
tant as an European ship of war, and increasing so
rapidly in numbers, as to afford the exhibition of a Re-
gatta, each boat being of beautiful model, elegantly
painted, and equipped with light and picturesque canvas,
occasionally varied by alternate stripes of white and blue,
as well as plain, and no two exhibiting the same flags,
each bearing the arms of its office or chief to whom it
belonged.

The breeze continuing to freshen we soon out-sailed
these vessels, but one rather in the style of a Pratique, or
health boat, motioning a wish to communicate, our pace was
reduced and she came alongside ; the officer would not,
however, come on board. He presented a small box upon
the end of a staff, in which I found a letter, worded in
Dutch as well as French, requesting me to " anchor near

1845.] APPEARANCE OF BATTERIES. 3

the Northern Cavallos in a convenient berth, and to remain
there until further notice." Our attention was now
directed towards the shores, under which we were to
anchor, and if suspicion of hostilities had been upper-
most in my mind, I could very readily have been per-
suaded that we were not welcome visitors. Every available
level was apparently studded with batteries and banners,
and our approach thus escorted, might have been deno-
minated an easy capture. It was rather too great a stretch
of imagination, however, to suppose that the Japanese
had turned pirates, and that they had sent out a letter to
seduce us into their port ; independent of the futility of
opening a quarrel with Great Britain. A slight glance
with the telescope discovered our mistake, for these ap-
parent lines of batteries were nothing more than calico
fences, the armorial devices of which we had mistaken
for embrasures.

Nothing like surprise was exhibited, everything ap-
peared to proceed as if we had been expected, and thus
escorted by the mosquito fleet, we at length reached the
spot, where the harbour-master, or some such personage,
seemed, by his bawling and holding up his boats' grapnel,
to think, that we ought to obey his mandate, which
evidently meant, anchor instanter. Whatever courtesy it
may be proper to observe in our intercourse with remote
countries, my little experience in such matters, has taught
me that to yield to any inferior authority, especially of
the Tartar breed, is to reduce one's own standard very
materially in the estimation of demi-civilized nations ; it
was not my intention to do as my predecessors had done
at Japan, my visit here was an experimental one, and it

B2

4 ORDERED TO ANCHOR. [1845.

remained, therefore, to be seen whether I had miscon-
strued these people. I had proceeded hither entirely at
my own risk, and upon my head would any failure most
inevitably fall. Looking to their imperative letter, re-
quiring obedience, I read, " Un ordre expres du Gover-
neur de Nangasaki, vous en joint de mouiller pres de
Cavallos Septentrional dans un endroit convenable" &c.
Now as I did not intend their bawling boatman to in-
struct me which was a convenient berth for my ship,
near the position alluded to, I stood on until I reached
the view I designed to have of the inner harbour, and
relative range of the batteries, and there anchored. After
waiting some time, a boat came off, and hailed us in
Dutch, but as I declined having any communication in
that language, she returned to the shore, leaving us
with a trivial supply of guard boats. As my original
communication, by the pratique boats, led me to expect
an immediate visit from the authorities, I drew up a
letter, by the aid of my Chinese interpreter, stating " that
having in compliment to their customs, performed my
part of the contract by anchoring in the position assigned
by their letter, that I was quite at a loss to account for
their want of attention in not waiting upon me according
to their promise, and that I expected an officer of proper
rank might be sent to confer with me, otherwise I should
land forthwith." This letter was not despatched until
near 4 o'clock, and then by an armed boat from us to
the nearest guard-boat, and I did not expect a reply
before the morning. To my great surprise, however, this
document was promptly responded to, and a gaily deco-
rated boat approached the ship, attended by six others,

-

1845.] VISIT OF A CHIEF. 5

conveying the superior officer, who waited upon me with
an apology for their seeming remissness as well as to ascer-
tain my wishes. Matters went on very satisfactorily, and
before quitting the ship this chief had complied with every
desire which could be conceded without reference to the
Prime Minister, and arrangements were made for the
ceremonial visit on the morrow, at noon. Some of my
readers will, doubtless, be as much astonished as my
Officers were, when I inform them that one of the con-
cessions of these people, was, the granting permission to
land on the nearest island, where there were only a few
fishermens' huts, to obtain the necessary Astronomical
and Magnetic Observations, including my remaining on
shore during the night, to obtain the Latitude by the
stars ! a point obstinately refused on all former occasions ;
but as I informed him that this was indispensible, it was
on this occasion cheerfully conceded. My interpreter
was somewhat alarmed when he found that I only received
this chief in undress. Siding up to me, he observed,
" This man first chop Mandarin, sir, he got two sword."
However, I knew a little more on the subject of etiquette
than to imagine that any state visit would take place
without due notice, and that the game I had commenced
must be played out in the same spirit. This Officer,
although I admit his powers were extraordinary as an
aid-de-camp, was, nevertheless, deputed by his superior
officer, and it was to that superior alone, in his proper
style, I decided to advance on terms of equality. On
the day following, our landing was effected without diffi-
culty or confusion, and the Observations, up to noon,
satisfactorily conducted, when I returned to the ship, to

0 CONVERSATIONAL INTERVIEW. [1845.

receive my guests. As I was still informed that no great
personage was sent to visit me, I retained the customary
undress, with epaulettes. The party consisted of four
first-class Chiefs, including our visitor of the previous
day, numerous second-class, and but few, in comparison,
of the plain gentry. They were conducted to the cabin
and between decks, and partook of refreshments, after
which they preferred the cooler air of the quarter-deck,
where chairs were placed for them. One very intelligent
and active person, who seemed to fill the situation of
secretary and linguist to the deputation, acted as the
medium of communication with our Chinese interpreter,
occasionally in characters, but principally viva voce.

The customary questions, as to the object of our visit,
having been replied to, they commenced by informing
me, that they had been expecting us for the last two years;
that they had been informed by a Dutch vessel from
Batavia, in 1843, that the ' Samarang ' would visit them ;
and that they had also letters, through Loo-Choo, from
the Meia-co-shimas, giving a full account of our pro-
ceedings in those islands, plainly telling me, however,
" that it was forbidden to measure the land in Japan."
That the reports were strongly in our favour, stating that
we did not enter their towns, or offend their prejudices,
but conducted ourselves in accordance with law and good
manners, and this had warmed the Emperor's breast.
They then enquired how long we intended to remain, and
upon being informed not longer than three days, unless
we could obtain supplies, they not only expressed them-
selves disappointed, but it was evident from their coun-
tenances, that some arrangement which they had made,

1845.] PERMISSION TO LAND. 7

would be disconcerted. They urged my remaining fourteen
days, at the termination of which period orders would
arrive from court, directing the mode of my reception at
Nangasaki, and until this was duly notified, I could
not land at the city, but might enter the harbour if I
wished. As the thermometer at this outer anchorage
stood as high as 96°, and we were informed that it was
"dreadful within "! I preferred my present position, where
I could enjoy the freedom of moving about in the boats
in pursuit of an object which had to be effected, not-
withstanding the vigilance of their numerous guard
boats. The chief of this deputation, a very prepossessing
person, of about 55 years of age, and excessively polite,
informed me, that although we could not ourselves visit
the shore, he had been instructed to prepare a list of
any articles which we required, either for the ship or our-
selves, and it was fully understood that we were to pay
for them, as the prices were named for every article
mentioned. Fresh meat, vegetables, water, and spars, were
noted for the ship ; and fruit and some minor articles
for the use of the officers. There were many articles of
ornament which 1 wished to purchase, but the reply was,
" if you wait fourteen days you will have them, as they
must be sent for ; and if you wish any particular articles
manufactured for you (Japan tables, desks, &c.,) they will
be ordered, and prepared for you by your return next
year, when it is highly probable that you will be permitted
to land." In this I am satisfied they were sincere.

One pertinent question was asked : " Why did the
English discontinue trade with Japan ? " This I was not
prepared to answer, but suggested that the fault might

8 AFFAIR OF THE * PHAETON.' [1845.

lay with their Emperor. But they affirmed that he was
always well-disposed towards the English, and preferred
their friendship until the departure of the 'Phaeton'.
Upon this subject they appeared disposed to enter into
some explanation, as they immediately referred to papers
which they had with them, stating, as it appeared,
minutely, the occurrences of that period, but which our
interpreter either did not, or would not, understand. The
termination of this affair of the ' Phaeton ' appeared to
be, that Bullocks were demanded for the ship, but were
not produced ; that men landed and took them by force,
and attacked the village near the anchorage, and that she
sailed, and had never returned, " which made the Em-
peror's heart very sore." The Chief in command was
speared for his neglect.

At this interview they begged very hard that I would
desist from my intention of remaining on shore to ob-
serve the stars during the night ; but as I weh1 knew
that any withdrawal from my original agreement, would
leave me open to a charge of weakness of purpose, I
contended firmly on its necessity, in public, but gave the
secretary to understand, that provided the night was
clear, I might possibly get all I required before midnight.
They very good humouredly assured me, that they were
satisfied I would only do what was proper.

After the departure of our visitors, I returned to iny
Observations, on the island, but found the guard-boats'
crews rather troublesome. This, continuing to increase
towards sun-set, I deemed it prudent to have our armed
boats in attendance. Shortly after commencing my Star
Observations, much confusion, and violent altercation

1845.] INTERRUPTION OF THE PEOPLE. 9

ensued, the guard boats, with their gaily-coloured Ian-
thorns, exhibiting the arms or distinguishing marks of
their chiefs, rapidly increasing in number; and I could
now perceive that some important chief was discussing
the authority by which I had been permitted to land,
and remain at night. Had I remonstrated against these
interruptions, I should, perhaps, have been included in
their animosities, I thought it prudent, therefore, to take
more notice of the stars, although the clamour very
much disturbed our proceedings. Several motions made
towards us, were of a suspicious nature, and one or two
addresses in Japanese were, doubtless, very gentlemanly
invitations to return to the ship, but my mind was made
up ; I understood not one word of these orations, and
pointing to the heavens, gave them to understand that
my attention was engaged with affairs in that direction.
To say that I was easy, would not be correct, and to
detail the various calculations, not connected with Astro-
nomy, which were rapidly passing through my brain,
would be impossible. The principal idea, however, was
of a dramatic character, involving the figure I should
assume in the event of any attempt to seize me, which
some coils of very gentlemanly white cord, as introduced
upon our stage, gave reason to suspect. Giving notice
to our forces to be upon the alert, and the rising of
our men from their state of apparent slumber, seem-
ing to have a decided effect upon the most noisy,
they saw that we were determined to maintain our
ground, and, probably, came to the conclusion that it
might be as well to remain quiet. Shortly after this,
the principal Officers having arranged, as I supposed,

10 RETIRE TO THE SHIP. [1845.

the guard for the night, and retiring with the other
rebel-quelling Chiefs, we were left in comparative ease.
By midnight I had obtained sufficient observations to
satisfy me for the position, and as the noise had ceased,
and with it the excitement, my return to the ship could
not be attributed by them to any efforts on their part ; I
therefore retired for the night, not even followed by a single
guard boat. As they had expressly informed me " that it
was forbidden to measure the land in Japan," this mandate
did not extend to the ship or the sea ; and as one very
stringent note of our Hydrographer clearly intimated to all
Officers holding such commands, that they are to exercise
their judgment in such emergencies, and that, at least,
an approximation to a survey of the works of a strange
place should be made, I took decided measures for
effecting this object on the first instant of landing, by
simultaneous observations at the land position and fore-
top-mast head. This afforded me some main triangles ;
many other schemes were adopted for its completion, too
tedious to mention, but the sounding part was very well
executed by the boats employed dredging for shells,
which they did not attempt to interrupt after they were
shown some of the objects which were collected, deeming
us, no doubt, great simpletons. As these boats were
commanded by Officers who had complete instructions,
and at certain signals from the ship had their positions well
fixed, a tolerable survey was commenced, to be finished
by the ship at her departure. The generality of my
readers may not feel interest in such matters, but I have
thought it advisable to introduce these observations, to
show to those who may be similarly circumstanced,

1845.] SECOND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS. 11

that where opportunity offers many obstacles may be dis-
sipated by a little ingenuity of thought and determination.
On the second visit of the Chiefs, the day following
they begged very hard that I would not repeat my visit to
the island, and as I had obtained all the observations
that were absolutely necessary, I consented, after consi-
derable intercession, to forego what was now of trifling
importance. But in doing so, it was not without the
expression of my wish, to render our stay as little irksome
to my friends as possible, and with the full understanding
that it was a concession on my part, rather than an act of
obedience to their mandate. After this I soon found a
relaxation of formal etiquette ; the ship was thronged with
strangers, and intercourse on all sides became unre-
strained. The greater part of the Chiefs begged that I
would write my name, with that of the ship, upon their fans,
and the two principal presented me with their duplicates,
upon which their names were written by the interpreter.
Upon some pretence, the three minor authorities were sent
to examine the ship, leaving the old Chief and the inter-
preter, who upon the cabin being cleared, asked many
indifferent questions, which probably were not considered
proper in the presence of others. He informed me that
they were perfectly aware of what had taken place between
us and the Chinese, but he could not conceive how they
had been brought to pay the money ; promises he could
understand, but their fulfilment was beyond his belief.
When assured that it was in part paid, and if not paid
at the time agreed on, that we should continue to hold
Chusan and Amoy, he exclaimed, with a deep sigh,
"England must be very powerful." lie then wished to

12 MUTUAL POLITENESS. [1845.

examine the strength of my arm, by feeling the muscles,
afterwards exhibiting his, observing, " I am a larger man
but I am very weak, the English are ah1 strong though
not large." Two of my boats crew were sent for, as if to
perform some duty in the cabin ; one an Englishman,
about six feet two, and strong in proportion, the other a
mulatto, born at Nova Scotia, about six feet, and im-
mensely powerful ; the latter surprised him amazingly, he
was also one of the handsomest coloured men I have seen,
and a great favorite on board. Our visitor then minutely
examined every part of the cabin and furniture, and
repeatedly observed, that if I wished any thing made for
me, that he would have it executed by the period of my
return the ensuing year ; and, frequently, upon asking if
they had articles similar to those noticed by him in my
cabin, he replied, wait until the answer from the Emperor
arrives, and then it is probable that you will be able to
judge for yourself. This remark was repeatedly made by
the other Chiefs, and also by the secretary, or interpreter,
when alone with me. I am therefore satisfied that they
believed the ' report ', as they termed it, would be favour-
able. Wishing to make some present to the Chief,
I endeavoured to fix his attention upon some object about
the cabin, but he evidently avoided the subject. As they
seemed to notice the tea which was provided for them,
and which was of the finest quality, I took occasion to
offer a small lOlb. box, of some which I had purchased
for the express purpose. Verbally he accepted it, and it
was put into his boat, but after he quitted, another boat
was sent back with it, possibly because it had not
been conveyed thither with sufficient secrecy, for I

1845.] LIBERAL SUPPLY OF PROVISIONS. 13

witnessed the perfect assent of the secretary himself,
before it was sent over the side. It is very difficult to
obtain good tea, either at Japan or Loo-Choo, and at both
places they acknowledged that they were unable to obtain
from China any of a quality similar to that shown to
them, although they had the same character of tea.

The day previous to our departure all the articles required,
were brought on board and mustered by a regular list ;
but in many of the names, they had made mistakes, na-
tural in all probability to their taste, such as peaches and
apricots, preserved in salt, for fruit. The small spars
(for studding sail booms &c.,) were of cedar, measuring
about ninety-six feet in length, by fourteen inches at the
butt ; a large quantity of very fine fish, but owing to the heat
of the climate unfit for consumption, hogs and vegetables
for the crew. Their reason for not giving us Bullocks,
as they were " too tired " or, " hard worked," is worth
relating. On enquiring, why they could not supply these
cattle, instead of hogs, they observed " The Japanese do
not eat Cows, they do their duty, they bear calves, they
give milk, it is sinful to take it, they require it to rear
their calves, and because they do this they are not allowed
to work. The Bulls do their work ; they labour at the
plough, they get thin, you cannot eat them, it is not just
to kill a beast which does its duty, but the hogs are
indolent, lazy, do no work, they are proper for food." *
Our specimens were probably of this breed, they did not
appear like working animals, but, on the contrary, over-
whelmed with their own fat, and weighing about 1501b.

* Probably it was on the ground they could not work, that one of the
Djogouns ordered all the old men, women, and cripples, to be destroyed.

14 EDUCATION AT NANGASAKI. [1845.

Many questions were put relative to the Dutch on
Desima, and as to whether any of their vessels were in
port ; but all questions relative to them were evaded ;
nor did we see or hear of any belonging to that factory.
To one observation which I made, relative to the per-
mission which we were informed, that the Dutch occa-
sionally obtained for a day's range in the country, it
was answered, simply " The English will obtain more if
they are admitted to land." They were extremly inquisi-
tive as to the Frenchmen at Loo-Choo, and distinctly
asked if one was a Catholic priest. I understood the
question by the gesture, and before my interpreter ex-
pounded it, desired him to say that we neither interfered
with the affairs of Dutch or French, turning the tables in this
instance, upon their own evasions relative to the former.

Refering to their conduct on the occasion of the visit
of the ' Morrison ', to return the Japanese wrecked upon
the Sandwich Islands, they dismissed the question very
summarily, and, as I thought, with something approaching
to impatience, observing " She attempted clandestinely to
break through our laws, landed contrary to law as a smug-
gler ; and that the same practice, as that followed with re-
spect to the ' Morrison/ was observed towards the Chinese.
They had sent back Japanese, sent by the Emperor
of China ". He further remarked, " China has her laws ;
it is death for a Chinese to quit the Empire, so it is with
Japarf. The difference between us consists in our en-
forcing the laws of Japan ; those of China are insigificant,
and constantly infringed ".

They have a college at Nangasaki, where the youth in
addition to general acquirements, are taught the Foreign
Languages, induing Dutch and English, and amongst

1845.] FLIGHT OF STUDENTS. 15

our visitors were many who spoke Dutch, and wished
much to find persons on board who could converse in that
language, but this the authorities did not approve of, and
as we had but one, and he understood but little, he was
kept out of the way.

One of the young students understood English slightly,
could pronounce a few English words, and readily caught
at every expression, recording it in his note book. He had
proceeded so far as to write several of the names of the
Officers in English, when it was probably noticed by some
of the authorities ; and as my readers have, doubtless, fre-
quently noticed a dead silence amongst a collection of noisy
sparrows, followed by a sudden chirrup and flight, with-
out any visible cause, so it happened with these young
students ; who, without any apparent authority, hurried
off" very suddenly to the boats. I strongly suspect that
many of our visitors were persons of high rank in dis-
guise. The greater number wore two swords, denoting
gentlemen of consideration ; and from the devices or
crests (in solid gold), noticed upon the hilts of those
worn by one or two rather distingue individuals, and
which I was assured were armorial bearings, and duly
acknowledged amongst themselves, I was induced to
draw comparisons to similar outlines of the badges on
the shoulders of the attendants, who were in their turn
designated as the retinue belonging to persons of high
rank. Coupling their emblems with those on the swords,
and the evident connection of master and follower, I had
travelled rather too fast in my chain of reasoning, forgetting
that discovery would very soon leave me deserted ; and
such was the result of my asking, if the person behind
my nearest friend was one of his retainers. They did not

16 LIBERALITY OF THE GOVERNMENT. [1845.

deny it but shook their heads, and shortly after they stole
away, leaving me with the old Chief. As this was our
last day and the boats would continue to come until a
late hour with wood, water, and other supplies, the old
Chief remained until 8 o'clock, and on retiring begged
that I would consent to receive him at 2 o'clock in the
morning, and converse until daylight, " such being the
custom of the country." To this I consented ; the Chief
departing, but leaving the secretary to see every thing
complete before he quitted. It was clearly understood
that the arrangement for payment was to take place im-
mediately the catalogue was found to be correct ; but the
secretary now declared, " that it was by an express order
of the Government, that every thing had been provided
free of cost, and that it was the custom of the country.
If a Japan ship goes to your country, I am sure you would
do the same ; the country bears the expence, it does not
come out of the purse of any individual. Finally, I can-
not act in the matter you wish, if I should even name it, I
should be disgraced, perhaps lose my life." Drawing me
to the taffarel, where no one but himself and our inter-
preter, could witness the conversation, he freely acquainted
me with the friendly disposition of the Chiefs and great
people of Nangasaki, towards the English; and their hope,
that on our return the High Councillors would consent
to our admission, acknowledging freely that it was within
their province entirely, (not the Emperor's), and that no
man could form any conception as to the view they would
take. All he knew was, that kindly expressions had
transpired amongst the great Chiefs about Nangasaki,
and they were generally forerunners of good. Relative
to the visit of the Chief, he would probably come alone,

1845.] COURTESY OF THE JAPANESE. 17

or be attended by three or four, including himself, and
that they would take tea and sweetmeats. Directing the
necessary preparations to be made, I took my nap, rising
at two, and waiting with considerable anxiety until day-
light. No one came; but the heavy rains which fell
probably prevented the visit, which 1 construed into an
official act, of seeing all correct up to the moment of
sailing.

There is one peculiar feature attending this visit. On
all former occasions that Japan has been visited by
strangers, an edict has been issued forbidding any return.
In this instance the promise to re-visit Nangasaki was
received with apparent satisfaction, and the Chiefs (and
it extended to the young men of family) expressed the
hope that they might be able to show me their houses,
and introduce me to their families. They further re-
quested, that I would bring with me Cow-pock matter,
Sulphate of Quinine, Ipecacuanha, Nux vomica, and other
medicines, engaging on their part to have several little
commisions executed for me. All these communications
were privately made in my cabin, but duly committed to
paper ; I am, therefore, far from believing in such con-
summate hypocrisy, as to imagine for an instant that any
deceit was practised, a crime in their code (as regards
invitation to the return of foreigners) which might, in
the event of hostility resulting, be attended with risk to
their heads, or rather bowels, the crucial incision in that
region being the only honourable mode of death per-
mitted. The following account of this torture is from
M. Titsingh's ' Illustations of Japan, &c.'

" Mention is so frequently made in this volume and in

VOL. II. C

18 TITSINOH'S ACCOUNT [1845.

other works on Japan, of the privilege enjoyed by certain
classes of the inhabitants, of being their own execu-
tioners, by ripping up the belly, that the reader will not
be displeased to find here some particulars respecting
this singular custom.

"All military men, the servants of the Djogoun, and
persons holding civil offices under the government, are
bound when they have committed any crime to rip them-
selves up, but not till they have received an order from the
court to that effect ; for, if they were to anticipate this
order, their heirs would run the risk of being deprived of
their places and property. For this reason, all the officers
of government are provided, in addition to their usual
dress, aud that which they put on in case of fire, with a
suit necessary on such an occasion, which they carry with
them whenever they travel from home. It consists of a
white robe and habit of ceremony, made of hempen cloth,
and without armorial bearings. The outside of the house
is hung with white stuffs ; for the palaces of the great,
and the places at which they stop by the way when going
to or returning from Yeddo, are hung with coloured stuffs
on which their arms are embroidered- — a privilege enjoyed
also by the Dutch envoy.

" As soon as the order of the court has been commu-
nicated to the culprit, he invites his intimate friends for
the appointed day, and regales them with zakki. After
they have drunk together some time, he takes leave of
them ; and the order of the court is then read to him
once more. Among the great, this reading takes place
in presence of their secretary, and the inspector: the
person who performs the principal part in this tragic

1845.] OF THE CRUCIAL INCISION. 19

scene then addresses a speech or compliment to the com-
pany ; after which he inclines his head towards the mat,
draws his sabre and cuts himself with it across the belly,
penetrating to the bowels. One of his confidential ser-
vants, who takes his place behind him, then strikes off
his head. Such as wish to display superior courage,
after the cross cut inflict a second, longitudinally, and
then a third, in the throat. No disgrace is attached to
such a death ; and the son succeeds to his father's place,
as we see by several examples in the ' Memoirs of the
Djogouns.'

" When a person is conscious of having committed
some crime, and apprehensive of being thereby disgraced,
he puts an end to his own life to spare his family the
ruinous consequences of judicial proceedings. This
practice is so common, that scarcely any notice is taken
of such an event. The sons of all the people of quality
exercise themselves in their youth, for five or six years,
with a view that they may perform the operation, in case
of need, with gracefulness and dexterity ; and they take
as much pains to acquire this accomplishment as youth
among us do to become elegant dancers, or skilful horse-
men : hence the profound contempt of death which they
imbibe, even in their earliest years. This disregard of
death, which they prefer to the slightest disgrace, extends
to the very lowest class among the Japanese."

The dress of the superior class which visited the
' Samarang ', nearly resembled that of Loo-Choo, being
composed of very loose trowsers and shirt of fine grass-
cloth, with a fine blue and white striped tunic of the same
material, but stouter, the whole confined by a broad sash

c2

20 DRESS OF JAPANESE VISITORS. [1845.

at the waist, in which two swords were inserted. The
legs were covered with very neat stockings, of a substance
very much resembling our white jean, the seam being on
the anterior and posterior parts ; a very slight sandal is
worn, but when they found themselves at ease in the cabin,
these were thrown aside and they preferred the eastern
habit of drawing their legs up under them. The head is
shaven from the temples backward on each side, denuding
a horse-shoe space in front, with a central lock, advancing
slightly before the crown. The hair is very neatly worked
back on all sides with some oleaginous compound, and
secured by a knot behind ; no hat or other covering for the
head was noticed, the fan or umbrella being mostly used
to intercept the sun's rays. Their swords deserve especial
notice, and amongst themselves their degrees of rank or
importance are typified by the devices of the hilt. The
larger one is about two feet six inches in length and
slightly curved, the hilt occupying about nine or ten inches
of this length, and affording an impression that it might
be intended to be used with two hands. It has a circular
cupped guard piece of metal, about two inches in diameter
where the blade is inserted, but more for ornament than
use ; the knob is also of metal, probably gold. The most
important part appeared to be the armorial device in gold,
which is placed upon the outer side of the hilt very neatly
worked over with braiding, apparently of fine hair, so as
still to admit of its being clearly distinguished. This
they appeared to conceal from our scutiny, and it was
owing to my tracing the connexion between a young man
very genteelly clad, and his follower having the outline
of this same badge, worked on the shoulder of his mantle,

1845.] SWORDS AND BOATS. 21

and who attended him closely, that my party became
suddenly thinned. The scabbard is of shagreen; the
smaller sword is nearly a fac simile but with a shorter
hilt. They are very handsome articles of dress, and to
judge from one which I saw drawn, of excellent workman-
ship. When I mention the word drawn, my readers must
not suppose that it belonged to any of the superior Chiefs,
as it would be a great breach of etiquette, almost an insult,
to show a naked sword ; but it was amongst some of the
younger branches in communication with officers between
decks. The lower orders or labouring classes, appear to
be of a larger, or more lengthy, build, and from their
exertions, which we witnessed in their boats, of consi-
derable power. Their boats are very neatly built, of good
model, very sharp and swift. An arrangement similar to
our river barges, or a light housing, is adapted to them,
which completely shelters the inmates from the weather,
carrying, conveniently, about twenty persons. As this
construction prevents the use of oars, three large sculls
are adapted on each side, abaft the beam, and the impulse
is so great that their velocity equalled that of our boats,
generally reckoned swift. The general length of these
boats I should imagine to vary between thirty and forty
feet, the extreme beam and bearing being abaft the centre,
forming a very sharp wedge to the stem, which being
much raised, as in the Spanish boats, gives them a very
rakish appearance. The official boats carry two small
banners on the quarters which denote their office, and
lanthorns, with devices, by night. No person is permitted
to move, by sea or land, at night, without this accompani-
ment, and upon the visits of the officers by day, they were

ANCHORAGE AND FORTIFICATIONS. [1845

preceded by their lanthorn bearer. The crews of these
boats are dressed in smock frocks, with the badge of
office worked on the shoulder, and glazed or japanned
hats similar to those used by firemen. But those who
labour at the sculls and probably are slaves, wear nothing
except a pair of short trowsers, reaching about one third
down the leg. Their hats, when they are covered, appear
to be composed of broad leaves of the Palmetto, woven,
and in some instances, of a frame work covered with
paper, prepared with the paste of the sea- weed Agal Agal.
Recurring to the anchorage and the appearance of the
fortifications as we entered, I shall now proceed to des-
cribe them. The outer roads of Nangasaki, or that
denoted by the anchorage off the Cavallos Islands, is
formed by the two thus named on the west and south, a
small island in the centre of the channel, leading to Nan-
gasaki on the east, and by a small chain of islets on the
north, leaving a space of about two miles in aperture open
to the north-west. All these points are more or less
fortified. The Cavallos Islands are about one hundred
and fifty to two hundred feet in elevation, and are disjoined
from each other and the main by channels, of about one
quarter of a mile in width. A few brass guns, apparently
nine- or twelve-pounders, are mounted on open terraces,
commanding the anchorage, but in the event of hostilities
would prove rather exciting to our mischief-loving tars, who
would desire no better amusement than tumbling them
into the sea, or turning them upon the inland batteries. As
it would be impolitic to play a bold game without closely
computing the force of the opponent, so did we distinctly
scan every line of the country we were approaching ; and

1845.J RELATION WITH JAPAN. 23

when the order for letting go the anchor was given, it
was with the full conviction that the ' Samarang ' was in
a condition to resent any insult which might, by mistake,
be offered to the Flag. By the kindness of my friend
Dr. Bridgman, of the American Mission at Canton, I had
been supplied with the voyages of the 'Himaleh' and
' Morrison ', and their contents had been closely scanned,
and duly weighed, long before sighting the shores of
Japan ; and having been further warned by Mr. Gutzlaff,
the interpreter at the visit of the ' Morrison,' that I must
expect treachery and be prepared to punish it, iny readers
will understand the semi-hostile, or cautious, feelings in
which I have indulged. With no ostensible ground for
my visit, beyond the pursuit of Science (more particularly
that relating to Magnetic Observations), whilst antici-
pating the chances of repulse, with the paramount neces-
sity for maintaining the credit of our Hag, my feelings
were of a somewhat complicated nature. Should hosti-
lities unfortunately take place, I was answerable to the
Government, as my visit might possibly be interpreted
as seeking them ; and if surprised in this dilemma, one
line of duty required, that I should, as the Captain of a
British Ship of War, support the character of the Flag ;
whilst another, and very opposite line of policy, was em-
bodied in my specific instructions ; which enjoined that I
should on all occasions of scientific duty, abstain from
force. Insult to the Flag was, therefore, the only plea
which warranted active service ; however, I felt confident
that by firmly maintaining my measures, I should prevent
any exhibition of this nature. Had we been called into ac-
tion, I foresaw without apprehension that the ' Samarang '

24 BATTERIES. [1845.

•

in conjunction with her boat force, was in a condition to
capture the two Cavallos Islands, and from the northern,
supported by the ship, obtain possession of two batteries
on the right, which commanded the lower forts opposite,
as well as the harbour. We counted about twenty-four
guns on the summit of the northern Cavallos, which could
be brought to bear on the right-hand battery, and as they
occupied about the same level as the batteries alluded to,
it would have been an easy matter, by charging them
with English powder, and serving them with British
seamen, to have become masters of their defences. One
such lesson, rapidly taught, the guns spikecl, or with-
drawn for embarkation, "with a disposition to renew
friendly intercourse ", would have put an end to any
further symptoms of hostility. All this it may be said,
reads very smoothly on paper, but we considered their
batteries themselves little better than the substance on
which these observations are recorded. The guns I had
every reason to believe to be of sound workmanship and
of bronze, excellent weapons worked by competent men,
but with their miserable handling and from our knowledge
of their execrably bad powder, incapable of throwing an
effective shot at half range, and that a plunging one ; we
were therefore fully justified in under-rating them. I can
only compare these weapons of defence, to a few field
pieces pointed through a drying yard, and worked by old
women. It will hardly be credited in the year 1845
that any place of defence could have been so constituted ;
the only cover, or breastwork, to this ordnance was com-
posed of sheets of calico three widths in depth, and forty
yards in length, each stretched on pikes, erected vertically,

1845.] NEW ACQUAINTANCES. 25

at fifteen or twenty feet asunder, and having, at the cus-
tomary distances for embrasures, certain devices in black,
to denote the regiment to which they belonged; and which
certainly presented a most picturesque as well as warlike
appearance in the distance, such as that of white-washed
batteries, with gay banners at the extremities. As many
regiments were collected on our arrival, these, joining
their lines, gave a most formidable aspect to the harbour
approaches ; but with the assistance of good telescopes
their absurdity was at once manifest, many being very
deficient in men, and entirely wanting in ordnance.

Thus far for the pageant before us, which lasted in
effect for a day, or until they had asertained how our
pulses beat; that determined, they were soon left to
flutter alone in the breeze, most of their Officers thinking
it better to have a closer inspection of the ship from their
boats. On approaching, some were observed to be hand-
somely accoutred, two in particular arrested my attention;
they were dressed in japanned helmets decorated with
gilded figures, a jacket of blue silk embroidery, and vest
in imitation of silver scales, with loose white trowsers,
and two swords. I requested the secretary to invite
them on board, and motioned them to come. In reply to
this they bowed most courteously and waved the finger,
implying that they were forbidden. The interpreter
informed me, that they belonged to one of the northern
regiments, and as their language differed from that spoken
at Nangasaki, they would not be able to converse with
•him. They were about twenty-five years of age, elegantly
formed, about five feet eight inches in height and fair as
any European, with small dark moustache, totally unlike

26 POLITENESS. [1845.

any of the Japanese with whom we had hitherto commu-
nicated. The interpreter admitted that they were people
of rank. As a proof that no thoughts of hostility were en-
tertained, by them, we noticed shortly after our arrival that
having laid all their guns for the ' Samarang ' they quitted
them; and nothing which could be construed into anything
approximating to slight, such as pointing guns, or other
hostile preparations, was noticed. Every thing was con-
ducted in the most polished manner and with the utmost
kindness. Being perfectly aware of their laws upon the
subject, I had no idea when at Nangasaki of requesting
permission to land, because I did not think it wise to risk
a refusal. Indeed I gave them to understand most
clearly, that I would not land unless requested to do so,
and without the restriction demanded of the Dutch;
impressing upon them " that our swords were part of our
uniform, and without them we could not feel our capacity
as British Officers." All this they comprehended, and
bowed with great humility in acquiescence. Respecting
their military preparation I was told in confidence by the
secretary, that as the Chief who commanded at the period
of the Phaeton's visit, was speared for his neglect, it
was incumbent to take every precaution, for their own
safety as well as credit ; and for that reason (and, probably,
under some fear arising out of our transactions in China),
all the troops in the neighbourhood were summoned,
though many had gone home since our arrival.

The following remarks from Titsingh will probably
prove interesting in this place.

"On the first arrival of the Dutch in 1609, the
Japanese were allowed to visit foreign countries. Their

1845.] THE JAPANESE. 27

ships, though built on the plan of the Chinese junks,
boldly defied the fury of tempests. Their merchants
were scattered over the principal countries of India ; they
were not deficient either in expert mariners or adven-
turous traders. In a country where the lower classes
cannot gain a subsistence but by assiduous labour,
thousands of Japanese were disposed to seek their fortune
abroad, not so much by the prospect of gain, as by the
certainty of being enabled to gratify their curiosity with
the sight of numberless objects that were wholly un-
known to them.

" This state of things formed bold and experienced
sailors, and at the same time soldiers, not surpassed in
bravery by those of the most warlike nations of India.

" The Japanese, accustomed from their infancy to hear
the accounts of the heroic achievements of their ancestors,
to receive at that early age their first instruction in those
books which record their exploits, and to imbibe, as it
were, with their mother's milk the intoxicating love of
glory, made the art of war their favourite study. Such
an education has, in all ages, trained up heroes ; it ex-
cited in the Japanese that pride which is noticed by all
the writers who have treated of them, as the distinguish-
ing characteristic of the whole nation.

" Having a keen sense of the slightest insult, which
cannot be washed away but with blood, they are the
more disposed to treat one another in their mutual inter-
course with the highest respect. Among them suicide,
when they have incurred disgrace or humiliation, is a
general practice, which spares them the ignominy of
being punished by others, and confers on a son a right

28 HABIT OF SUICIDE. [1845-

to succeed to his father's post. As with us, the graceful
performance of certain bodily exercises, is considered an
accomplishment essential to a liberal education, so among
them, it is indispensably necessary for all those who, by
their birth or rank, aspire to dignities, to understand the
art of ripping themselves up like gentlemen. To attain
a due proficiency in this operation, which requires a
practice of many years, is a principal point in the educa-
tion of youth. In a country where sometimes a whole
family is involved in the misconduct of one of its
members, and where the life of every individual fre-
quently depends on the error of a moment, it is abso-
lutely requisite to have the apparatus for suicide con-
stantly at hand, for the purpose of escaping disgrace
which they dread much more than death itself. The
details of the permanent troubles recorded in their annals,
and the accounts of the first conquests of the Dutch in
India, furnish the most complete proofs of the courage of
the Japanese. The law, which has since forbidden all
emigration, and closes their country against strangers,
may have taken away the food which nourished their in-
trepidity, but has not extinguished it : any critical event
would be sufficient to kindle their martial sentiments,
which danger would but serve to inflame, and the citizen
would soon be transformed into a hero.

" The extirpation of the Catholic religion, and the ex-
pulsion of the Spaniards and Portuguese, caused dreadful
commotions in Japan for a number of years. The san-
guinary war which we (the Dutch) carried on with those
two nations, who were too zealous for the propagation of
Christianity, and the difference of our religion, procured

1845.] INTERCOURSE WITH THE DUTCH. 29

us the liberty of trading there, to the exclusion of all
the other nations of Europe. The Japanese, perceiving
that incessant seditions were to be apprehended from the
secret intrigues of the Roman Catholics, and the numerous
converts made by them, found, at length, that in order
to strike at the root of the evil, they ought to apply to the
Dutch, whose flag was then the terror of the Indian seas.
"The bold arrest of Governor Nuyts, at Fayoan, in
1630, showed them that the point of honour might every
moment involve them in quarrels for the purpose of re-
venging the insults which their subjects might suffer in
foreign countries or at sea. The decree of the Djogoun,
which confiscated the arms of the people of Sankan,
wounded the vanity of the Japanese. Numbers of male-
factors, to avoid the punishment due to their crimes,
turned pirates, and chiefly infested the coasts of China,
the Government of which made frequent complaints on
the subject to that of Japan. The nine Japanese vessels,
then trading with licenses from the Djogoun, were to be
furnished with Dutch passports and flags, in case of their
falling in either with Chinese corsairs, or with our ships
cruizing against those of the Spaniards of Manila and the
Portuguese at Macao. The residence of Japanese in foreign
countries, rendered their Government apprehensive that
it would never be able entirely to extirpate popery.
These various considerations induced the Djogoun, in the
twelfth year of the nengo quanje (1631), to decree the
penalty of death against every Japanese who should quit
the country; at the same time the most efficacious
measures were taken in regard to the construction of
vessels. The dimensions were so regulated, that it be-

30 ENGLISH IN JAPAN. [1845.

canie impossible to quit the coast without inevitable
danger.

" Cut off from all other nations, encompassed by a sea
liable to hurricanes, not less tremendous for their sud-
denness than their violence, and thereby secured from
the continuance of hostile fleets in these parts, the Ja-
panese gradually turned their whole attention to their
domestic affairs. Their respect for the Dutch by degrees
diminished. A mortal blow was given to our importance
in this country by the removal of our establishment from
Firando to Nangasaki in 1640, the chief objects of which
were, 1 . To afford some relief to the inhabitants of that
imperial city, who, since the expulsion of the Spaniards
and Portuguese, were daily becoming more and more
impoverished ; 2. To keep us more dependent, by placing
us under the superintendence of their Governors. For
the sake of our commerce, we patiently submitted to the
destruction of our recently erected store-houses, the
heavy expense incurred by the removal, and our impri-
sonment in the Island of Desima, where the Portuguese
had their buildings, and which we had heretofore in
derision denominated their dungeon. The humiliating
treatment to which they then first subjected us, according
to our records of those times, caused the Japanese to
remark that they might act towards us in a still more
arbitrary manner."

At that period, 1609, the Japanese may have fully
merited the opinion expressed by M. Titsingh of their
military importance, but this is now sadly changed ; they
are even behind the Chinese in this respect. Nor can 1
agree with the writer in his opinions as to the contempt

1845.] DEFINITION OP COURAGE. 31

of death, in the cases of suicide, giving any claim to
bravery. It is almost a question to be classed with the
soliloquy of the culprit under sentence of execution,
whether he will submit to be exposed on the scaffold in
obedience to the laws of his country, or whether to avoid
this shame, which, in the cases of beheading, some have
gloried in, he will venture the ordeal of appearing before
his Judge on his own responsibility. It is needless to
occupy time in discussing such a question of bravery, for
those who witnessed the acts of every grade in the affairs
of Canton River, must have remarked the hundreds which
voluntarily drowned themselves rather than submit to
capture, and yet, where was their valour? Did they
oppose half-a-dozen red or blue jackets when they might
have almost pitched them over the ramparts for their
temerity ? Courage is a different quality ; it is not im-
petuous, it is not fool-hardy ; it is cool, calculating, and
not to be diverted from its object, either by difficulty, or
success. If any lack of stability, command ceases, and
the most disgraceful acts, committed by subordinates
after the loss of command, or power to restrain, tarnishes
victory. Under these circumstances 1 consider all points
connected with true courage, bravery, or competency to
command, to be a species of acting ; acting upon sound
and tenable grounds, and not for the credit of an idle
triumph, reaping laurels for self at the cost of some of
your best men. The loss, or even injury, of one is too
dear, unless the calculation warrants the inference, that
the loss of self and party is important to the cause, and
may save the lives of many. The acting in these cases
becomes the natural act of a man's life, and predominates

32 JAPANESE HOUSES. [1845.

whether the enemy be human, the gale, the surf, or the
fatal closing of his career. On this last is the seal im-
pressed, and in cowardly seeking it by suicide, is cowardice
established.

" The houses of persons of quality are divided into two
series of apartments. On one side is that of the women,
who, in general, never show themselves ; and on the
other, is what we should call the drawing-room, where
visitors are received. Among the trades-people and in-
ferior classes, the women enjoy more liberty, and are less
careful to conceal themselves from view : but, upon the
whole, the sex is treated with great respect, and distin-
guished by extraordinary reserve. The finest pieces of
porcelain, and those cabinets and boxes which are so
highly esteemed and carried all over the world, instead
of serving to decorate the apartments in ordinary use, are
kept in those secure places above-mentioned, into which
none but particular friends are admitted. .The rest of
the house is adorned with common porcelain, pots full of
tea, paintings, manuscripts, and curious books, arms, and
armorial bearings. The floor is covered with thick
double rugs, bordered with fringe, embroidery, and such
like ornaments. According to the law * or the custom of
the country, they must all be six feet in length, and
three in breadth.

" The two suites of apartments, into which the body of
the house is divided, consist of several rooms, separated
by mere partitions, or rather by a kind of screens, which
may be moved forward or backward at pleasure ; so that
an apartment may be made larger or smaller as there

* This law appears to prevail at the Meia-co-shimas, which leads to
the inference that they are subject to Japan.

1845.] CONSTRUCTION OF HOUSES. 33

may be occasion. The doors of the rooms and the par-
titions are covered with paper, even in the most splendid
houses : but this paper is adorned with gold or silver
flowers, and sometimes with paintings, with which the
ceiling is always embellished. In short, there is not a
corner of the house but has a cheerful and pleasing
appearance. This mode of arrangement renders houses
more healthy : in the first place, because they are entirely
built of fir and cedar ; in the second, because the windows
are so contrived, that by changing the place of the parti-
tions, the air is allowed a free passage through them.
The roof, which is covered with boards or shingles, is
supported by thick rafters ; and, when a house has two
floors, the upper is usually built more solidly than the
lower. It has been found by experience, that a house so
constructed, resists the shocks of earthquakes better. In
the architecture of the exterior there is nothing very
elegant. The walls, which, as I observed, are of boards,
and which are very thin, are covered in many places with
a greasy earth found near Osaka ; or, instead of this
earth, they give the outside a coat of varnish, which they
lay on the roofs also. This varnish is relieved with gilding
and paintings. The windows are filled with pots of
flowers, which, according to Caron, they have for all
seasons ; but when they have no natural flowers they
make shift with artificial ones. All this produces an
effect that pleases the eye, if it does not gratify it so
highly as beautiful architecture would do."

These remarks particularly apply to the houses of the
Meia-co-shimas, Loo-Choo, and Quelpart. The mats in
particular are, I perceive, according to law, which I sus-

i)

34 CONSIDERATION OF MOTIVES [1845.

pected to be the fact at the Meia-co-shimas, their depth
(of three inches) is omitted, without this dimension they
would not preserve an evenness.

Having waited patiently until 7 o'clock, without any
appearance of boats coming, we made sail, and continued
working over the anchorage for the filling in of our
survey.

I now come to the most puzzling consideration of this
visit. For my own part, I should, without hesitation,
from the confidential communications held with those in
power, have maintained that nothing could be discerned
which warranted the slightest apprehension of false deal-
ing ; yet, in justice to the feelings of my Officers, who
had their eyes keenly open to any symptoms of bad faith,
I must say, that several differed materially with me as to
the medium through which I received our communica-
tions with these people ; and yet, no single act could be
adduced sufficient to warrant my attaching any sort of
duplicity to it. It is true the failure of the Chief to keep
his appointment (2 A.M., until 6), during which interval
it blew and rained, very much to the detriment of their
paper-wrought defences if they ventured, was deemed
suspicious; but considering it as I have done, a final
fiscal visit, I cannot enter into this feeling. However,
after making sail, this afforded a plea for working to and
fro over the anchorage, surveying the ground, ostensibly
waiting the final visit of this Officer. During this de-
tention, we observed the Guard boats, with guns and
scaling ladders, pass our bows and go to the southern
Cavallo; upon noticing this, some remarks were ventured
that it might possibly have been their intention to take the

1845.] OF THE JAPANESE. 35

' Samarang ' by storm the preceding night ! What busi-
ness had they with recently constructed scaling ladders ?
guns concealed by mats, &c. ? All this is absurd. It
would be high time to ask their reasons when we were
satisfied of the intention, but it would really be placing
the Japanese too low in the scale of civilized nations to
imagine that they would risk, not only the inevitable
defeat, which they must have been fully aware would have
been the result of any attempt to court hostilities with
Great Britain by such an unprincipled unwarrantable
insult ; at a moment, too, when, from their own admis-
sions, they anticipated, with satisfaction, an official visit
from our country, attended with overtures for the renewal
of friendly intercourse.

On the other hand, let us look at this nation with the
same clear-sighted vision that we would judge one of
either a timid, or intriguing, disposition. In either case
we must, to a certain degree, admit weakness, or cowardice,
and this being the case, would they, entertaining such
machinations, have so fearlessly trusted themselves in
our power until so late an hour at night, as in the case
of the Mandarin and the Secretary, or Interpreter ? Or,
giving us credit for a degree of weakness, or stupidity,
(which was not very apparent) would they have acted
with such madness as to have risked their frail Gun
boats immediately under the bows of the ' Samarang '
under canvas, with a commanding breeze, and liable to
speedy annihilation. No ! treachery results only from
cowardice, and we saw nothing of this complexion ; more-
over, there were not more than ten men in each boat,
merely sufficient to take charge of the ordnance, muni-

36 LEAVE JAPAN. [1845.

tions, &c., when landed, and probably returning by sea
to the station from whence our appearance had caused
their summons.

As the non-appearance of the Officer warranted our
delay at the anchorage, in the hope of his visit, the ship
continued plying over the ground (perfecting our work),
when, despairing of the contemplated visit, we bore up at
noon on the 10th of August, and took our farewell for
the season, as we imagined, of the shores of Japan. My
most ardent wish is, that the next visit of a British ship-
of-war may be attended with equal courtesy, and that
she may obtain all the objects so fully anticipated upon
the revisit of the ' Samarang.'

The following remarks are from the voyage of the
' Morrison ' before alluded to, in 1837, which contains,
under the term introduction, extending to seventy-five
pages, a suitable digest of the early history of Japan.

" The earliest visitor to these regions is supposed to be
Marco Polo, succeeded by Fernando Mendez Pinto,
driven upon their shores by a gale in 1 542. Xavier fol-
lowed in 1547, and was very successful in propagating
the Catholic religion, but quitted in 1551.

"About this time (year 1569) the Portuguese first
pointed out to the Prince of Omura the advantages of the
harbours of Nangasaki over the ports they had been used
to frequent. Their suggestions led to the formation of a
settlement, which, ere long, became an important city,
and which retains an unhappy celebrity down to our own
day. It may give some idea of the rapid extension of
Catholicism at this time, to add, that the successor of
Xavier died in 1570, having founded fifty churches, and

1845.] EARLY INTERCOURSE WITH JAPAN. 37

baptized more than 30,000 converts with his own hands.
Yet mingled with these successes, we have accounts of
the apostacy of one of the Princes, and the persecutions
inflicted by order of another."

"In 1 570, the Kubo (or Djogoun) Nobunanga succeeded
to the throne and favoured the Christians, and in 1583,
the then Princes of Omura, Bungo, and Arima, visited
Lisbon, and paid their respects to the Pope, returning to
their own country in 1586.

" Nobunanga was succeeded in 1582 by Fide Yosi, (the
famous Taico,) who still continued his patronage of the
Jesuits, many of his best Officers being their friends.
It is asserted that the only bar to Taico's embracing
Christianity was his refusal to give up his Harem. In
1587 the Japanese began to suspect their friends, and
from various causes assigned, Taico, on the 25th of June,
issued an edict banishing the Christian Missionaries.
They were required to retire to Firando within twenty
days, and to depart for India within six months, on pain
of death. The crosses they had erected were ordered to
be thrown down, and the churches razed."

About this period Taico declared war on China and
Korea, under the intention, as ascribed by the mission-
aries, " of getting rid of the Christians among his Officers
and troops, by sacrificing them in a foreign war. That
he cherished such a design is inferred from his after life,
and that he was unwilling to accomplish it by domestic
persecution is shown by the fact that of 200 priests, and
1,000,000 converts, then in his dominions, he put but
twenty-six or twenty-seven to death. The war with
Korea and China terminated in favour of the Japanese in
1593."

38 SPANISH PRIESTS. [1845.

" In 1596, the ' Galleon ', from Manila, bound to New
Spain, was driven near the Japanese coast, and enticed
by the Prince of Tosa into one of his ports. Here she
was embargoed, and her Commander negociated in vain
for her release. In the course of this negociation, one of
her company sought to produce an impression, by pointing
out to the Japanese Officers on a map, the extent of the
dominions of the King of Spain. The Japanese asked
with surprise, ' How is it that your King has managed to
possess himself of half the world ? ' The Spaniard re-
plied, ' He commences by sending priests, who win over
the people ; and when this is done, his troops are de-
spatched to join the native Christians, and the conquest
is easy and complete.' ' What ! my empire filled with
traitors ! these priests that I have nourished are serpents !'
and he swore that not one of them should be left alive.
New edicts of banishment followed; and the 5th of
February, 1597, was marked by the martyrdom of twenty -
•six priests."

The intrigues, discussions, and recriminations, which
then prevailed between the different sects, Dominicans,
Franciscans, Augustines, and Jesuits, each in their turn
charging the other with conspiracy, opened the eyes of
the Japanese, and rendered their removal politic. How-
ever, upon the death of Taico, in September, 1598, he
was succeeded by Yeye Yason, or Gongin, who again
countenanced the Catholics.

The first mention we have of the Dutch occurs in the
following : —

" In 1608, a sad casualty, fraught with the worst con-
sequences, occurred at Macao. The crew of a Japanese

1845.] FATE OF GOVERNOR PESSOA. 39

junk, in a riotous state, provoked a contest with the
military, and twenty-eight of them were killed. The
Governor, Pessoa, by whose order they were fired on,
conducted the annual ship to Japan the following year.
The report of his conduct was not slow in following him,
carried probably by the Dutch, who arrived there in the
first ship sent by their East India Company the same
year. The recent liberation of the Dutch from the
tyranny of Phillip II., and their vivid recollection of the
enormities of Alva and his coadjutors, must be allowed,
perhaps, to palliate their voluntary information, and their
proposal to seize the ship of Pessoa, present her to the
Kubo, and in future to supply the country with the
articles which the Portuguese had previously furnished.

" While the Kubo hesitated, a Spanish vessel was
wrecked on the coast, having on board the Governor of
the Philippine Islands on his way to New Spain. The
shipwrecked governor was introduced to the Kubo, who
asked him if the Spaniards could supply Japan with silks,
&c., provided the Portuguese were driven away. The
reply was, that Manila could supply three times as much
as Macao. Thus doubly assured, the order was given to
seize the ship, behead Pessoa, expel the Jesuits, and give
their establishments to the Spanish priests.

"On the 9th of January, 1610, the attack was re-
newed, Pessoa and his crew overpowered, and the ship
burned. After which, the Emperor relenting, permitted
the Portuguese to continue then- trade."

In 1613, an English factory was established at Eirando,
the Dutch and English making common cause against
the Spaniards and Portuguese.

40 PERSECUTION OF THE CATHOLICS. [1845,

"In 1614, an edict issued for the demolition of the
churches and banishment of the priests. They were im-
politic enough to interfere in matters of state, and the
party to which they were allied proving the weaker, they
were proscribed afresh, and whoever harboured them
were to be condemned to death. This Kubo died in 1616,
but Fide Fada, his successor, followed out his intentions.

"In 1620, the persecution slackened, but was re-
kindled in 1622, when the distinguished Spinola, and
many others were burned.

" In 1624, the persecutions were rigorously pursued,
extending even to the violation of the Christian graves.
Before the year was passed, the Spaniards were banished
for ever, and the ports of Japan closed, except Nangasaki
for the Portuguese, and Firando for the Dutch.

" Persecution seems to have raged, with little intermis-
sion from 1627 up to the death of Fide Fada in 1631.
The boiling crater of Mount Ungem (Unga) was now a
common instrument of death. These cruelties appear at
last, to have made an impression even on the Dutch.

" The character of the cruel, vicious Yeye Mitsou, was
already well known. By his orders, Desima (a little
islet off Nangasaki) was constructed, and to this new
prison the Portuguese were consigned in 1635, amid the
derision of the short-sighted Dutch. The armaments of
their ships were now taken away, no one was suffered to
speak to a native on religion, nor to walk without a guard.
Their native wives, and the children by these connexions,
were ordered to be shipped off to Macao. The following
year was marked by the introduction of the ceremony of
trampling on the cross.

1845.] CONSPIRACY. 41

"The death-blow of Catholicism in Japan was now
about to be struck, and we are told that the fury that
dealt it, was roused by the discovery of a conspiracy
against the throne, formed by the native Christians and
Portuguese. Papers, found on board a Portuguese vessel
captured off the Cape of Good Hope by the Dutch, are
said to have brought this treason to light. It is not,
however, necessary to believe this. It is easier to fabri-
cate a letter, or a tale of a letter, than to conspire.
Forgery is less hazardous than treason. Besides, the
story has been denied most solemnly by the Jesuits, and
their word cannot be worse than that of the Dutch, on
whom its credibility rests. Moreover, another and a
better cause is at hand. The patience which had borne
with heroic, if not Christian constancy, so many trials, was
exhausted ; and the native Catholics of Arima and Sima-
bara flew to arms. Thirty-eight thousand of them fortified
themselves in the latter place. The besieging army,
eighty thousand strong, could not reduce the fortress;
and the Dutch director Kockebecker, was summoned to
its aid. He came. The walls of Simabara were battered
by the Dutch cannon, and its brave defenders perished to
a man, fighting to the last. Some apology might again
be made for this co-operation at the siege of Simabara,
had its defenders been the countrymen of Alva, or Re-
quesens, or John of Austria, or Alexander Earnese. But
truth requires that the measures of Kockebecker should
be regarded as the alternative, which he deliberately pre-
ferred to an interruption of the Dutch trade. Our sense
of his guilty choice cannot be expressed in stronger lan-
guage, than by declaring it unparalleled in the history of

42 EXTERMINATION OP CHRISTIANITY. [1845.

Dutch intercourse with the East. Henceforth the re-
sidence of that nation in Japan can be regarded only as
an Aceldama ; — its purchase, a river of innocent blood.

" Four of the most distinguished citizens were deputed
to soften the rigorous proceedings of the Government of
Japan. They arrived at Nangasaki in July, 1640, and
were immediately put under arrest. The edict condemn-
ing all Portuguese who should enter Japan was read to
to them ; and on their confession that they were aware
of its existence, were sentenced to death. The following
impious inscription was placed on their common grave :
— ' So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no
Christians be so bold as to come to Japan ; and let all
know, that the King of Spain himself, or the Christian's
God, or the Great Saca, if he violate this command, shall
pay for it with his head.' The ship which carried the
Ambassadors was burned, and the crew returned by
another conveyance to Macao. The people of that city
abandoned with horror all further attempts on hearing
their terrible tale."

Thus terminated Catholicism and Christianity in Japan.

" On the arrival of the Dutch ship or ships of 1611,
a formal edict in favour of their trade was obtained. It
gave them the full enjoyment of the privileges possessed
by their competitors. No duties appear to have been
levied on them, nor any regulations as to the quantity or
assortment of goods, or as to time and place of sale, im-
posed. They were not exempt from municipal laws, but
in all other respects they were ' let alone.' We have no
account of the nature and extent of their annual trade
at this period, but it doubtless flourished through the

1845.] EXPULSION OF THE PORTUGUESE. 43

remainder of the reign of Gongin,* and that of his suc-
cessor, up to his division of the royal authority with his
son in 1623. Persecutions had been the lot of the
Romish clergy through the greater part of this interval,
but it does not appear that any substantial preference
was yet given commercially to the Dutch, over the
Portuguese flag. Both parties came under restriction
in 1623.f

" About this time the Dutch renewed their prayer that
the Spaniards and Portuguese might be driven from the
country, promising to supply Japan with goods, and,
moreover, offering to transport Japanese troops to capture
Macao. Here is the ' Nuit's ' spirit again, seeking satis-
faction for the failure of the attempt on Macao, in 1623.

" The Portuguese were now shut up in Desima, and
we may form some idea of the extent and minuteness of
the official measures resorted to, to abolish every me-
mento of their religion, from the fact that the Dutch
were required to erase the date of their erection from
their factory gates. Their full compliances, and especially
their distinguished services at the siege of Simabara, in
1638, deserved a better recompense; if there be, as it is
said there is, a kind of honour, a social compact, kept

" * It seems to tell against the tendency of Catholicism in Japan,
that Taico and Gongin, two great princes, should stoop to persecution
to guard against a disputed succession, or to ensure the quiet reign
of a son, without taking pleasure in such cruelties during their lives.
We are prepared to make allowance for selfishness or passion, but we
cannot refuse a certain respect to actions done to prevent evil conse-
quences to others, — to a father's provision for his son, when he himself
shall be no more."

"f The Portuguese had no ships in Japan in 1623, they being kept
back by an attack of the Dutch (and English?) in Macao."

44 THE DUTCH IN JAPAN. [1845.

between the worst of men. From this saying, the
Japanese of 1640 must certainly be excepted, for at that
time, only two years after the butchery of Simabara, they
consigned their gallant allies to the prison of Desima,
just emptied by the expulsion of the Portuguese. A
little before, the Dutch had been told, 'You observe
Sunday, you date from the birth of Christ, your prayer
is to him, and your confession of faith, that of His dis-
ciples; the gospels, the prophets and the apostles are
your sacred writings ; and there is but little difference
between your belief and that of the Portuguese. We
have known this for a long time, but we saw that you
were enemies of the Spaniards and Portuguese. We
now require you to erase the dates from your buildings,
to cease to observe the Sabbath ; and as for your future
conduct, the lords of Firando will tell you the rest.'
Against these instructions, and the transportation to Nan-
gasaki which followed, not a murmur was raised. The
Dutch were now left in sole possession of the trade with
Japan, and since that time it is well known their mono-
poly has never been disturbed. Their subsequent poli-
tical intercourse has been limited to an occasional mission
from Batavia, and the visits of the Dutch chief of the
factory to Yeddo, formally made annually, but now once
in four years.

" Holland falling again under French occupation, the
Javan Islands were taken possession of by Great Britain,
in 1811 ; and the Dutch residents at Nangasaki had been
more than three years without communication with
Europe, when the expedition planned by Sir T. S. Raffles
arrived there, in 1813. A notice of this bold experiment,

1845.] BRITISH EXPEDITION. 45

and of a second trial made the year after, will be found
in our sketch of British intercourse. Both failed to re-
move the president of the Dutch factory at Nangasaki,
who kept his place until the trade with Japan was
renewed, on the restoration of the Dutch E. I. colonies,
at the peace of 1815. The pertinacious M. Doeff was
relieved by the arrival of a legitimate successor in 1817.
Since that time, the trade has been carried on for account
of the Dutch Government, with the exception of the
years 1828 and 1829. The two annual vessels are
chartered, and the principal articles of their cargoes laden
by government, which receives and employs, chiefly in
the Batavian coinage, the copper that constitutes the great
return from Japan. The minor articles sent in these
ships are put on board by private merchants, who pur-
chase, at auction, their licenses to take this part in the
trade. We have no list of cargoes later than that of
1806, given in the appendix to the ' History of Java,'
and which consists of sugar, tin, woollen cloths, chintzes,
pepper, spices, sapan wood, &c., &c., valued at 175,000
dollars ; the returns for which were in copper and cam-
phor, and the balance in favour of the voyage, 175,000
dollars. But in this account, the copper is assumed by
the mint at fifty dollars per picul, considerably more than
the market price."

Speaking of Adams, an English pilot, in the interest
of the Dutch : —

" Three years after this, one of his letters, addressed
to his countrymen in Java, fell into the hands of Capt.
Saris, one of the Commanders of the English E. I. Com-
pany, who, acting on its invitations, sailed for Firando

46 VISIT OF THE ' RETURN.' [1845.

early in 1613. Capt. Saris had letters of commendation
from James L, with which he repaired to the court of
Gongin at Surunga, where he was well received. He
subsequently paid his respects to the heir apparent at
Yeddo, and returned to Firando with full permission for
himself and countrymen to carry on a free trade. Saris
then returned to England, leaving Mr. Richard Cocks at
Firando as factor of the English E. I. Company, where he
remained until the establishment was given up, in 1623.

" The civil wars of England had long been succeeded
by the restoration, when the ship ' Return ' was sent to
Japan in 1673. On his arrival at Nangaski, the captain
was asked what religion he was of ; and how long his
master had been married to a Portuguese princess ; and
if they had any issue ? Information as to the fact of
this state connection, the Japanese must, of course, have
derived from the Dutch. Inquiry was also made, why
forty-nine years had been permitted to elapse, and no
attempt been made by the English to renew the trade ?
The answer was, that the greater part of the interval had
been passed in civil convulsions and foreign wars. Several
conferences ensued, which turned chiefly on the Portu-
guese, and the difference between the English and the
Portuguese. A month after the arrival of the ' Return ',
it was announced, on the part of the Kubo, that ' his
subjects could not be permitted to trade with those of a
king who had married the daughter of his greatest
enemy ; and that the English must sail with the first fair
wind/

" Another century had nearly elapsed, when the last
expedition of Cook passed down the eastern coast of

1845.] VISITS OF BRITISH SHIPS. 47

Niphon, after the great navigator's death, and decorated
several of its capes with English names, which still keep
their places on the charts.

" Twelve years later, in 1791, Capt. Colnet skirted the
western shores of the Japanese Archipelago, in search of
some point where trade might be opened; but was
everywhere repulsed by the boats of the coast-guard.
Wood, water, &c., were, however, furnished him, without

pay-

"In 1796, Capt. Broughton visited the Japanese
islands, for the purpose of discovery, and passed some
time in surveying and refitting on the coasts of Yesso or
Matsmai. He was kindly treated, supplied with refresh-
ments, and even boarded by the fishing boats as far south
as the bay of Yeddo. Being in a public exploring
vessel, he, of course, made no attempt to open a trade.

" In 1803, the ship ' Frederick ' was sent to Nangasaki
from Calcutta, with a valuable cargo of British goods.
Capt. Torey, who commanded her, was refused admit-
tance to the harbour, and required to leave the road in
twenty-four hours. The Calcutta merchants were pro-
bably led into this attempt by the 'representations of M.
Titsingh, who, as Dutch resident at Chinsurah, had been
their neighbour for many years. This gentleman seems
always to have looked back to Japan, and to his stay
there with the fondness so often felt toward an old
residence, the discomforts of which are forgotten, but the
agreeable recollections still retained.

" In 1808, two years after Louis Buonaparte had been
crowned king of Holland, the English frigate ' Phaeton '
entered the harbour of Nangasaki in search of Dutch

48 THE ' PHAETON.' [1845,

ships, with orders to * sink, burn, and destroy.' On her
being boarded by the Japanese officers, accompanied by
two of the Dutch factory, an accidental rencontre took
place, and the gentlemen from Desima were detained for
a short time as prisoners of war. Notwithstanding this,
the governor of Nangasaki obeyed the requisitions, and
furnished the ship with all needed supplies. Opposite
accounts are given of the effect of these proceedings of
Captain Pellew ; one, that everything was yielded at his
requisitions, the other, that preparations were in pro-
gress, which would have cut off the frigate, had she not
hastily put to sea. According to the Dutch version, this
unfortunate expedition had no results, but to prejudice
the British name, and to compel the governor of Nanga-
saki to the last resort of an implicated or unfortunate
Japanese officer, viz., to commit suicide. The English
statement, on the other hand, relieves Capt. Pellew of all
blame, and throws on the malicious disclosures of the
Dutch, who had been requested to report the ' Phaeton '
as an Indiaman, the whole responsibility for the conse-
quences, whatever they may have been, of their disclosure
that the strange vessel was a ship of war.* In 1811, a
British armament, from Bengal, took possession of the
Java Islands, and in 1813 two ships were despatched by
the Lieut. Governor, Sir T. S. Raffles, to renew the com-
muncations with Japan. The cargoes of these ships
consisted of sugar, tin, spices, woollens, chintzes, &c.,
amounting to 298,000 dollars. The returns, including
debts paid in Japan, and goods left unsold there,

" * Vide Quart. Rev. no. 112, and U. Service Journ. for Mar. 1836.

1845.] DR. AINLIE'S REPORT. 49

amounted to 342,000 dollars — balance in favour of the
voyage, 44,000 dollars. It is added that the result
would have been better, but for the high cost and poor
assortment of the cargoes, and the extravagant rate of
freight. Dr. Ainlie, who accompanied this expedition,
returned with the impression that ' the Japanese were
entirely free from any prejudices that would stand in the
way of an unrestricted intercourse with Europeans. Even
their religious prejudices appeared, to him, moderate and
inoffensive. Commerce with Japan, both in exports and
imports, was in his opinion, extensible to a long list of
articles not yet exchanged, and capable of great increase.
We will not attempt to decide how far his opinions on
the accessibleness of this empire may have been modified
by the views and wishes of his patron and friend. The
following year a second effort was made by Governor
Raffles, in a single vessel, to place British representation
at Nangasaki ; but the pertinacity of the Dutch president
triumphed in this, as in the former instance, and he kept
his footing as the impersonation of the old regime, until
Java and its dependencies fell again into Dutch hands,
after the peace of 1815."

The position of the western islet off the anchorage at
Nangasaki, upon which our Observations were made,
was determined to be in Latitude 32° 43' 32" N., Lon-
gitude 129° 43' 54" E., Variation 2° 35' 39" W., and
Dip 45° 6' 2". The coasts of Japan have not at any
period been surveyed by competent persons, and the out-
lines of the main islands, which we possess, and upon
the authority, I believe, of the Jesuits, can only be
reckoned as Maps, instead of Charts ; consequently, the

VOL. II. E

50 LOSS OP INSTRUMENTS. [1845

out-lying dangers, consisting of rocks and islets, not
coming within their knowledge or power of placing, were
found to be more numerous than we had anticipated, and
afforded us much uneasiness during the thick rainy night
which ensued. Dawn only assured us that had we been
visited by northerly gale, we might have stood a very
fair chance of wreck upon the dangers which studded our
path, and have sought a renewal of friendship at Nanga-
saki earlier than we had anticipated.

" The sweet little cherub that sits up aloft "

had, however, kept a bright eye on the c Samarang ', and
she was now quietly threading her way to a safe offing.

It now became our object to make the shortest run for
Loo-Choo, both on account of Chronometers, as well as
provisions, but calms and variables, added to the dis-
covery of islands not on our charts, rendered our unwil-
ling detention interesting. On the 13th of August we
landed upon one of these terra incognita;, and effected a
tolerable survey, by despatching the master and second
master to two others. On the 14th a similar course was
pursued, but, unfortunately, at the moment of embarkation
an accident happened which caused me considerable un-
easiness; the coxswain, anxious for my comfort and
safety, had so placed himself between the rocks and the
gig, that the receding swell jammed him between her
stern and the rocks, and the wave falling lower than
usual, caused our boat to upset and fill. Every instru-
ment but the Chronometer, then in my hands, was lost,
including all the pets, public as well as private ; thus,
at one blow, almost paralysing future exertions; cer-

1845.] RETURN TO LOO-CHOO. 51

tainly destroying that degree of confidence in the observa-
tions which these instruments warranted. After this, as
if sympathising in our disaster, a favourable breeze
ensued, and before sunset the ' Samarang ' was moving
about seven knots towards her destination. This con-
tinued until sighting the Loo-Choo group, when it again
fell calm, preventing our reaching anchorage until the
18th, about 4, P.M. Here we found the ' Royalist/ which
had been appointed as our consort, awaiting our arrival ;
but to our great disappointment, with barely provision
to enable us to reach Hong-Kong, thus destroying all
expectations of examining this interesting group, with
the same satisfaction and freedom as we had done at
the Meia-co-shimas, as well as cutting off that measure
of relaxation to which our crew looked forward after
cheerful submission to extraordinary and arduous labour,
consequent upon this peculiar service. So satisfied
were the Board of Admiralty upon the necessity of
these relaxations, upon reaching port, that to prevent any
misconception upon this important point, it was em-
bodied in a distinct and special letter; but as the 1st of
September was specified as my final limit for return to
Hong-Kong, anything short of absolute necessity forbad
delay. Every exertion was, therefere, directed towards
completing, and during the interval requisite for rating
the Chronometers, I determined on making the most of
my detention amongst these people.

The ceremonial forms were, on account of my recent
visit much curtailed, and I found myself infinitely more
at home with these people than I had anticipated. The
Frenchman had been less vigourously treated, but they

E2

52 EXCURSION TO THE MOUNTAINS. [1845.

had by their tact prevented their people from communi-
cating so freely with him as before, thus turning the
tables in order to render his excursions so monotonous
as to cease to be interesting. His funds, too, had fallen
low, but the arrival of the ' Royalist ' had enabled him
to obtain supplies.

The presence of the Frenchman now proved of some
importance to ourselves, as he, having visited the interior,
was able to afford me much information, and assisted in
forming plans for an excursion, which having already
been permitted to him, they could not, by courtesy, deny
to me. The intimation that I wished to take air on the
mountains, and that the Frenchman should accompany
me, was conceded without difficulty, and having arranged
to breakfast with the Padre, our horses, guides, &c.,
were assembled at his gate. After breakfast, our party,
consisting of the Padre, Lieut. Ogle, of the ' Royalist ',
Lieut. Roberton, of the ' Samarang ', and myself, with
one Mid. and our interpreter, Aseng, mounted our steeds,
and accompanied by Mandarins, great and small, with
attendants, forming a goodly throng, proceeded on our
journey. The interpreter had some little communication
with me previous, and having intimated a wish that the
great town, or city of the Emperor should not be entered, I
assured him most fully upon this matter, reminding him
of our proceedings at the Meia-co-shimas ; upon which
he concluded, " you are at liberty to do as you please,
Loo-Choo man very small." Our steeds were led with
some little ceremony until we gained the outskirts of the
town, when they were left to our own control, or, more
truly, to their own instinct. I am not quite satisfied

1845.] PROGRESS THROUGH THE VILLAGES. 53

that mine, which was a very active, but easy-going little
animal, had not inherited some of the feelings of his
biped masters, for he never missed an opportunity when-
ever we came within reach of the Padre, either of lashing
out at him with his heels, or, if in advance, of snorting,
and using his fore legs : frequently to my discomforture ;
the Padre on occasion remarking, "you perceive that
even their horses are taught to dislike me." Having
ascended about one-third of the distance, to the highest
ridge, commanding a view of the town and anchorage,
as well as the city above us, we were invited to rest and
take refreshment in a small thatched house, apparently
constructed for the occasion. Our next stage carried us
through a much more interesting country than my view
from the sea led me to imagine existed in Loo-Choo.
No hesitation was now shown by the inhabitants in
taking us through their villages, the old women were
driven away, or made to stoop in hiding their heads, but
were, in all probability, taking a sly peep under their
arms ; and the young ladies in the houses were very
plainly pulling the blinds aside to get a sight of the bar-
barians. At length we reached a very pleasant seques-
tered spot, surrounded by large trees, and barely admit-
ting of prospect beyond the anchorage and town beneath.
Here mats were spread upon the grass, and being seated,
sweetmeats, cakes, tea, &c., were again introduced, and
from the regular " set to " and the abundance of canteens
produced, I suspect that this was the general meal hour,
as in reply to my wish to proceed, it was hinted, "Mandarin
man eat plenty this time." It appeared also to be in
some measure devoted to the toilet, if one might judge

54 EXPLORE THE HEIGHTS. [1845.

from the various heads under the manipulation of the
youthful valets.

At length, having re-mounted our steeds, we proceeded
by gentle oblique roads, leading towards the highest range,
pretty well paved, and shaded with trees of large size
on either side. At the summit the ground appeared to be
levelled by art, and the Padre taking the lead, passed into
a narrow path, reaching to the summit, at the boundary
wall of which a tablet with characters in Chinese, gave
some description of the building above, which was now in
a state of ruin. Erom our examination of the area which
it had occupied, being about 300 feet in length, by eighty
or ninety wide, and, probably, twenty-five feet in height,
as well as from one or two vestiges of bastions, or turrets,
which remained, it struck me as belonging to the same
school of fortification as those at Quelpart, which differ from
anything I have observed in recent works in China, Loo-
Choo or Japan, inasmuch as the latter are rather deficient
in placing their flanking guns to advantage. From the
summit of these ruins, apparently the most commanding
height upon Tah-Liew-Kiew (Great Loo-Choo), we were
able to see the ocean on all sides, as well as every re-
markable feature on the island, completely overlooking
the city of Sheudi, or Shoolee, the town of Napa,
anchorage, &c. As I had already received official notice
" that if I would not re-visit the Meia-co-shimas, to survey,
every facility would be afforded here, where there were
plenty of Mandarins to attend upon me," I considered
this to be my most important station, and viewed
with considerable interest the features of the island thus
delineated, as on a map, beneath me, mentally singling

1845.] CITY OF SHEUDI. 55

out snug little bays and interesting spots for our resting-
places.

The view of the city of Sheudi from hence, apparently
above a hundred feet or more, lower in level, as well as from
several other positions, aided by a good reconnoitring
telescope, led me to imagine that it has not been con-
structed for the purpose of defence. It appears to be a
walled inclosure, occupying the crest of a hill, steep
towards the north, or side next the anchorage, but jutting
in a peninsular form from the level behind it. These
walls, which follow the inequalities of the rocky face of
the hill, are probably from forty to fifty feet in height,
very slender, and not calculated to support ordnance ;
they are neatly kept and whitened, and have flag-staves on
three of the angles, on one of which a banner was occa-
sionally exhibited. On the land side, the walls are not in
such good repair, and at the neighbourhood of the eastern
gate, not more than ten or twelve feet in height ; the road
leading to this gate was by a paved causeway, and with so
large a proportion of well-built houses on either side, as a
suburb, that it impressed me with the idea that the com-
paratively small space inclosed by the walls might con-
tain a palace, temple, or some public establishment. In
confirmation of this idea, I was unable when at our best
position (where we breakfasted), and nearly at its level,
to detect more than two great buildings, occupying the
eastern side ; the remainder was concealed by the very
thick foliage of the large trees within, which are not
common in towns. Previous visitors have indulged in
various conjectures about this city, the Emperor, and
various other subjects, relating to the difficulty of pene-

50 INTERPRETER ASENG. [1845-

trating into the interior. I do not mean for a moment
to insinuate that those who preceded me were wanting
either in tact, or determination, but either these people
have changed, their superiors have relaxed, or, (the most
important point,) they were not aided by so determined a
Chinese interpreter as I had in Aseng, the pupil and
servant of my lamented friend, Mr. Morrison, able to speak
as well as write the court dialect. It will be seen that
this latter advantage was important ; first at the Meia-
co-shimas ; next at Quelpart, and the Korea ; at Japan ;
and now, at Loo-Choo. Restraint appeared to dissolve
before him. This may also be attributed to the presence
of the Frenchman, but certainly did not extend to the
permission to survey their islands. Here we were on the
summit of one of the Loo-Choo peaks, as guests, feted at
every turn, and I feel that I may safely say, nominally,
by my own proposition, excluded from entering this en-
chanted city.

Before I descend from this elevation, let me discuss the
questions of " the Emperor ". I found on many occasions
that my interpeter confounded the terms Chief, Mandarin,
Examiner, King, Queen, and Emperor, which also ex-
pressed Ruler, and it was not without special examina-
tion, on every occasion, that I induced him to adopt the
proper English words. So it has probably happened
with others at Loo-Choo, with respect to the designation
of \Einperor.' But on this occasion I was determined to
probe the matter more closely. I therefore demanded of
him where the Chief resided ? The reply was, " Sheudi ".
"What is his rank?" "Mandarin, not first chop."
" Has he a button ? " " No— I think he Japan Chief."

1845.] THE LOO-CHOOANS. 57

" Enquire." " He no like say." " Ask why they sent
reports from Pa-tchung-san, and hence to Japan, stating
how I had been employed, if their Chief was not under
Japanese rule ? " " He say, ' who told you he send chop
to Japan ' ? " The interpreter having explained, all the
reply we could obtain was, " He say he must do so."
However, this point was indirectly established at other
meetings, and satisfied me that all the chain of islands
continuous from Japan, as far as the Meia-co-shimas, are
penal settlements under Mandarins, not Emperors. Re-
ferring to the visit of the ' Morrison ' to this port, on her
passage to Japan, having on board the Japanese who
were wrecked near the mouth of the Columbia, in the
Oregon territory , it appears, that the chiefs of this place
expressed great anxiety about them, observing, " that it
would be far better to send them from Loo-Choo by one
of the Japanese junks." Would they presume to do so
in defiance of the known laws of Japan, unless they
possess some delegated authority? It appears further,
that on discovering the determination to proceed in the
'Morrison', that the communication with that vessel became
more restrained, probably, to prevent intercourse with these
people; the language of these islands being very similar to
that of the lower orders in Japan. However, a document
put on board at the moment of departure, and translated
by Mr. Gutzlaff, as well as by another, totally unconnected
with him, at Hong-Kong, and agreeing, clearly points
out the authority of Loo-Choo over the Meia-co-shimas,
and Mr. Gutzlaff, from it, and other sources, perfectly
coincided in opinion with me upon their being under the
control of Japan.

58 TOWN OF NA.PA. [1845,

Having descended from our elevation, we entered a
Temple close at hand, where further supplies of tea, sake,
refreshments, &c. had been prepared for us ; after which,
somewhat to my surprise, our conductors led us by a road
directly for the city of Sheudi. At one moment I began
to fancy that they intended to surprise me by some mark
of peculiar favour, at another, that they wished to make
the experiment in order to ascertain how far they could
calculate upon our dispositions. The Padre, finding that
we were very near the city, even in the suburbs, and un-
attended by our Mandarin escort, wished to push forward,
but as my word had been pledged, either directly, or in-
directly, to refrain from such a step, I merely advanced
to the crossing, by way of ascertaining how far our guides
had neglected their trust, and drew up, when we were
soon rejoined by our attendants. As soon as they per-
ceived, by my smile, that I did not intend committing
them, they appeared voluntarily to relax, and I suspect
that had I been alone, they would not have objected to
my riding through the town. However, they took us by
a nearer route, immediately round the base of the little
hill on which it stands, and by this measure, we obtained
a shorter and more convenient road towards the town of
Napa, where we arrived without further incident, passing
through the suburbs at Pootsoong, without the slightest
surprise on the part of the residents, to whom, probably,
the appearance of the French had become familiar.

During this excursion another subject was discussed
which entirely destroyed former' assertions as to the
questions of barter or use of money. In the first in-
stance, I have already alluded to the lowness of funds, on

1845.] PURCHASE OF A HORSE. 59

the part of the French rendering them uneasy. How
could this happen if money was not in circulation ? But
the French were able to purchase their supplies in the
market, either directly, or, I believe, latterly, through a
Mandarin, appointed to superintend these affairs. But
to put the question to the test, I made the inquiry as to
the value of such a pony as that furnished me; the
reply was, " fifteen dollars." " Can I purchase one for
that sum ?" " Undoubtedly." " Can I purchase this
one ?" " Yes." He was not a purchase, but ' 'a tribute
horse " from Shantung Province, near Pekin, sent by the
Chinese Emperor. My Interpreter in this case also mys-
tified the term present into tribute, as it was undoubtedly
a present. Finally, on dismounting, before the horse could
be changed, I repeated the question : — " Will you sell
this horse for fifteen dollars ?" On the reply in the affir-
mative, Aseng marked him, and the next day he was
sent off to the ship in one of their boats ; but on pro-
ducing the fifteen dollars, it was intimated that if I had
an old telescope, the Mandarin would prefer it. Suffi-
cient has, I trust, been adduced to show the habit of
dealing, and upon the question of remuneration, they
gladly accepted flannel, cloth, calico, silk, and crapes,
with other trifles which were sent in return for presents
made to the ship, and for which I obtained receipts.

On my return to the ship, an invitation was brought
on board " from the Chief Magistrate of Napa, specially
deputed to communicate with, and receive the foreign
Chiefs," requesting the company of myself and Officers on
the day following, at an entertainment. The number
of Officers, names, and rank, to be specified. The

60 VISIT TO CHIEF MANDARIN. [1845.

weather proved rather unpropitious, but I think that our
party numbered about twelve. The place appointed was
not as I suspected, at Pootsoong, but at a position infinitely
more convenient. This was at a building situated at the
inner angle of the stone causeway, projecting mid-channel
from Napa, at the point where the junks are moored, and
probably used as the Custom House. Here we found a
very convenient inclined jetty, enabling us to land without
difficulty, and within fifty yards of the gate of entrance to
a square court inclosed by substantial walls constructed of
hewn coral, on the right of which stood the house of the
Mandarin ; which being thrown entirely open, by the re-
moval of the sliding pannels, possessed, in addition to
coolness, the very great advantage of excluding the
rabble. This building is situated immediately upon the
angle which connects the town by another causeway,
and is, in fact, the only landing place to the town at low
water, the interior being laid dry by the ebb. At the
gate we were received by three Mandarins in state, and
conducted to the Chief within the walls, who not only
went through the customary obeisance, but shook hands
in the English style, and taking both my hands in his,
conducted me to my place at a small table, at which he
first seated himself beside me, but shortly after retired,
leaving us to be attended by the others. This, I suspect,
was in order to make arrangements outside about the
changes which were to be made in the courses. The
wine was, as usual, a species of weak whiskey, their
sake, about half the strength of the customary Hollands,
in which they occasionally pledged us.* Boys were in

* These had red hatchee-matchees, which I was informed designated
the Students of the College — as well as secretaries.

1845.] RAMBLE IN THE COUNTRY. 61

attendance with fans to cool us, as well as to drive
away the flies. After having partaken of refreshments,
the trays were removed, and train bearers entered, placing
before each of the guests a wooden tray, containing small
presents of the productions of Loo-Choo, each tray labelled
with the name of the Officer, and containing the list of con-
tents. They consisted of specimens of silk, of six varieties,
but of very poor material ; six pieces of stout cotton, very
coarse, and evidently printed by block; fans, paper,
umbrellas, and ajar of Sake, and were sent off to the ship
the day following, by one of their boats. Our repast con-
cluded with tea, after which I was very agreeably surprised
by the question, " Would I like to take a walk, to see
the country ? " As this could only be effected by going
directly through the town of Napa, I consented. The
crowd was not troublesome and we had reached the end
of the causeway, leading into the town, when I recognized
my old friend and ally at Pa-tchung-san, Shanghai (Beau-
fort). He was manifestly afraid to speak, but the distress
in his eye was too evident. I stepped out from my
party, and shook him by the hand, but one of the police
in the most brutal manner, raised his arm to strike him,
thinking, possibly, that the act was his own. My up-
raised arm prevented this taking effect, but, the poor
fellow was huddled away amongst the crowd, and I
could not again see him.

Entering the town, we suddenly found ourselves in the
midst of the market, and as our appearance had not been
foreseen, we found the damsels scampering in every
direction, leaving their goods to the mercy of the males.
This was the only opportunity we had of seeing anything

62 SHIP-BUILDING. [1845.

like comeliness in the lower orders ; and some of these
were not to be despised. Many of the elders not gifted
with charms, quietly sat still, with their backs towards
us, pretending to be engaged in other matters, and gene-
rally screened by some well-meaning male. From the
fair supply of produce noticed in this market, and the
persons engaged in purchases we may infer that the use
of money was not unknown ; or for what possible end
could it be forbidden ? Our ramble carried us through
the town of Napa, und suburb of Pootsoong, and towards
the temple where my friend the French Padre resided,
returning by the outer line of the town, to the place of
disembarcation.

I think there were six junks in the harbour, at the
time of our visit ; they were all of Japanese build, and
of their peculiar model. Two, in particular, appeared to
be very neatly built and equipped, and bore the Satsuma
emblem on their banners, as well as the quarters. They
have been designated by some as wanting in beauty.
How has this varied within the short period of my own
nautical experience ! When Seppings first modelled his
circular sterns, how unsightly they were declared ! But
strict utility has taken the lead, and from the bow of
1810, even of our then clippers, who would have believed
that in 1840 the Symond build would almost have
changed the features of our navy ? Again, in the former
period, the extreme beam was retained about one-third
from the stem, tapering aft ; latterly, the beam, as in
some of our most powerful vessels, has been carried well
aft, in conformity with Chinese models.

The Japanese models, now before us, differ in toto

1845.] AT JAPAN. 63

from anything which I have seen ; their extreme width
appears to be about one-third from aft, tapering directly,
and by a very sharp wedge-shaped rising bow, the after-
third rounded off not ungracefully, although fully, to the
stern. In conformity with this build, in vessels not more
than 300 tons, the mast, which is of large dimensions
(twenty-eight to thirty inches diameter), is stepped abaft
the centre of the vessel, having a slight rake aft, and de-
pending almost for its entire security, on a powerful stay,
apparently adapted for a triangular sail, but none has
ever been seen upon it. The only sail observed, was
a huge square one, composed of narrow widths, of a
very flimsy canvas, not sewed together, as in our sails,
but laced, so as to be reduced at pleasure, by taking
off cloths instead of reefing. This I noticed in the smaller
boats off Nangasaki, where the sail appeared to traverse
by rings on the yard, and to be divisible into four parts,
In the vessels now under inspection, they were in not
less than eighty. As the outer cloths were securely
attached to their bolt-ropes I can only surmise, that in
reefing by this vertical method, the middle cloths are
removed.

The rudder is similar to that in use amongst the
Chinese, but the tiller is about one-third the length of
the vessel, and the rudder being triced up in port, makes
this appear as an additional spar. The exterior of these
vessels was very neatly finished, and payed with a coat
of clear varnish ; most of her metal fittings appeared to be
of copper ; and abaft, where our quarter badges would be
placed, they were ornamented by a light lattice work,
obliquely forward, or diamond fashion. Having read so

64 CUSTOM HOUSE. [1845.

much of the unwieldiness and unmanagableness of these
vessels at sea, I am totally at a loss to account for it from
their build. It must, therefore, depend on the enormous
mast, the great surface of rudder exposed to the waves,
or to the want of triangular sails of good canvas, to
enable them to work to wind-ward. Under English
management, or under the supposition that I had met
with one of these vessels in distress at sea, I have not
the slightest doubt that we should have found her trim,
and got sailing out of her by adapting lighter spars ; for
from her very extraordinary build, I am perfectly satis-
fied (having witnessed the same models on a smaller scale
impelled by sculls,) that they are not wanting in velocity,
if properly handled.

The vessels I am now speaking of, are not to be con-
founded with the unwieldy Chinese junks, which are
also navigated between Japan, Loo-Choo, and China.
The only comparison which would at all approximate, is
the Lorcha of Macao, or the pilot boats that look out
off the Ladrones for vessels bound to Canton river ; and
it is well known these vessels sail remarkably well.

Our examination was not entirely confined to the
water ; the masonry and general construction of what we
have hitherto viewed as their defences, excited my in-
terest. The entire work of the tongue of masonry,
extending sea-ward, from what I assumed to be the
Custom-house, is faced with accurately squared blocks of
the Coralline limestone, which abounds on the coast-line ;
but from the very confined space between the walls and
its unfitness for purposes of defence, I am not disposed
to attribute any design of this nature in its construction.

1S45.] COLLEGES. 65

In the first place, it is too high for men or guns to fire
over, and in the next, it is not more than eighteen inches
in thickness : far too slight to withstand either the con-
cussion from their own artillery, or to resist an attacking
force. The work opposite, westerly, is liable to an equal
objection. It has the same thickness of wall, but suffi-
ciently low to fire over, without affording any protection
to its defenders. The works noticed at Japan, were even
worse, as from the clear view which we had of their
batteries, on the southern side of the entrance, the para-
pet did not appear to rise more than a foot, if so much.

The characters in use by the people of the Meia-co-
shimas and Loo-Choo, could not be comprehended by our
interpreter, although upon a very close scrutiny, by others
at Hong-Kong, it was pronounced to be a species of Chinese
running hand, sometimes practised by the merchants. It
bears no resemblance whatever to the Japanese character.

At Japan, Quelpart, as well as Loo-Choo, colleges are
established for the education of the upper classes ; the
established language of the schools, in all cases, being
that of the court-dialect of China. In this language all
official correspondence to strangers is framed, as we found
in all the places visited, and which were afterwards trans-
lated at Hong-Kong. The students at these institutions
have peculiar dresses, probably arranged by the state ;
those of Japan were pointed out by a bluish-grey mantle,
and those of Loo-Choo, by a kind of dark-coloured cas-
sock, with upright collar and red hatchee-matchee caps.
These, at our state entertainment, performed the duties
of attendants. The material of the cap or Hatchee-
matchee, appeared to be of coarser texture, and a duller

VOL. IT. F

66 WANT OF CLEANLINESS. [1845

red than those worn by the other authorities, or secretaries,
who are also entitled to this distinction ; those only
wearing purple or yellow are entitled to high rank. The
remark, that the same written character, of the Chinese,
is understood in Korea, Japan, Loo-Choo, or China,
although different in expression of sounds, ceases to
become a subject for speculation if we consider the
Chinese language as merely an elaborate painting. The
language of flowers is fully understood throughout the
East, however great may be the variation in the oral ex-
pressions made use of to represent the same idea. Two
cases, clearly in point, will illustrate these remarks, as to
the Chinese court dialect. Our interpreter was unable
to converse viva voce, with any of the people we met, ex-
cepting the learned in his language, and yet neither party
was at a loss to make themselves understood by the in-
tervention of paper and ink. The use, therefore, of the
Chinese written character at Loo-Choo, cannot be assumed
as involving the question of the subjection of these Islands
to China, any more than the numerous French terms in
our public courts, or records, would imply our depen-
dence upon that power.

At the periods of the visits of foreigners, the superior
classes, alone, are probably better dressed, and are per-
mitted to mix with the strangers ; but having had some ex-
perience in these matters, having almost lived with the
people of the Meia-co-shimas for six weeks, having travelled
into the interior of Loo-Choo, and taken the people un-
awares, in their customary habits, having closely watched
the Koreans, Japanese, &c., I am not disposed to accord to
any of them the characters of neatness, cleanliness, or
purity of morals. I believe them to be less cleanly than

1845.] DIET. 67

the Chinese, who may be generally noticed at the doors
of their houses, after sun-set, making every effort to wash
off the accumulation of the day. I never witnessed any
such attempt at extensive ablutions amongst any of the
island races, and when they have by chance exposed the
skin, it presented a coarseness which indicated frequent,
if not complete, exposure ; I am, therefore, strongly of
opinion that their customary garb is but scanty. This,
too, I assume to be one of the most important objections
to our visit ; the necessity of perpetual dress and watch-
fulness must be most irksome, and, probably, with their
limited means, expensive. The working-classes are inva-
riably in such a tattered, filthy state, that one naturally
avoids them, fearing the effects of contact. From frequent
intercourse, we found our attendants insensibly drop into
our habits, (and their own naturally), of wearing straw
hats ; and before leaving Loo-Choo, three varieties were
procured for me of very substantial manufacture.

As we had not an opportunity of examining the display
in their market, or of ascertaining their general resources
for subsistence, we can only refer to such articles as came
immediately under our notice. I think, however, that from
my experience during my former visit in the ' Blossom ',
in 1827, coupled with the present, added to the frequent
display of the contents of their canteens, I may give a
tolerable guess as to their general travelling diet. I do
not on any occasion remember to have fallen in with meat ;
fowls, cut into small pieces, rice, hard-boiled eggs, the Sepia,
Octopus, varieties of shell fish, pickles, or rather vegetables
cured in salt, cut up small, and mixed together, predomi-
nated as the contents of one vessel ; sweetmeats and rice

F "2

68 FRUIT. [1845-

cakes in others, concluding with diminutive white-metal
pots, containing Sake. The tea equipage constituted a sepa-
rate canteen, and this preparation was of the lowest scale
of Chinese produce. It is true that they cultivate the
tea plant in Loo-Choo, but they explained with a contor-
tion of countenance, that it was unfit for the consumption
of the upper classes.

The market, according to our French friend, affords
the customary vegetables to be met with at Macao, ex-
cepting those resulting from European seeds. Pumpkins,
Melons, Cucumbers, Peaches, Pears, Figs, Brinjoles,
Vegetable Marrow, Indian Corn, Beans, Sweet Potatoes,
Eggs, Fowls, Hogs and Bullocks, were amongst the sup-
plies sent off to the ship; and although they express
themselves as a very poor people, I saw enough of their
ground under cultivation, as well as of the quantity of
green looking substance in the evening market, to feel
that the poverty must depend on the circulating medium.

Upon the eve of departure, the following document
was presented, but it was fully understood that it was a
formality that they were compelled to observe, and that
if we should return, that it had better be to Loo-Choo
than to the Meia-co-shimas, " as they had more Mandarins
to help us at Loo-Choo."

OFFICIAL DOCUMENT.

The duly prepared petition of Ching-yuen-kin, the acting local Officer
of the Napa Keang Territory, earnestly beseeching that a stop may be
put to Surveying, in order to set at rest the minds of the people.

According to the reports from the local authorities at the two Islands
of Tai-ping and Pa-tchung, of the past year, Kwei-maou (1844) to the
eflfect that a vessel belonging to the Great English Nation had arrived,
from which many men had landed, and during several tens of davs

1845.] OFFICIAL DOCUMENT. 69

employed themselves in sounding the depths of the sea, and measuring
the extent of the land.

That, although among the Englishmen there had been hitherto pro-
priety of conduct, among the natives there existed great apprehension ;
so much so, that they had neglected their customary occupations, and
were in a state of much consequent distress.

Again; during the fifth month of the present year (June, 1845)
the local authorities of the dependencies of Pa-chung and Na Territory
(Y-nah-koo), made a similar statement.

When these reports from first to last reached me, I reflected that our
mean country is in an inferior state of cultivation, and of small extent ;
all our islands, likewise, are not large, there is no abundance of pro-
ductions, and they are scarcely sufficient to maintain life, and when
storms and droughts occur, we are reduced to the utmost straights.

I would therefore petition your Excellency to view the sufferings of
our small country with a condescending eye, and in the exercise of
that benevolence and tenderness which so well becomes a great nation,
in its dealings with one so much its inferior, to desist from sailing round
the islands, and the measuring of the territory. So from this country,
as a centre, to the most remote of its dependent islets, shall the people
at their peaceful occupations, beseech Heaven to shower unnumbered
blessings on the heads of their benefactors.

This is an earnest petition.

A respectful petition from Ching-yuen-kin, acting Officer, of the
Napa Keang Territory.

Taokwang, twenty-fifth year, seventh month, twentieth day.

(20th August, 1845.)

Several considerations naturally arise upon the face of
this document.

In the first instance, we are assured of the subjection
of the Meia-co-shimas. In the second, we have the
acting Officer in the command of the southern district of
Loo-Choo, clearly taking into his own hands the adminis-
tration of this affair without allusion to any superior \

70 TRIBUTE TO CHINA. [1845.

and I was assured from the parties who delivered it in
state, that it was from •' their Emperor", to be construed
Ruler ; and yet this Ruler, calling himself merely acting
local officer, despatched to meet me on my return from
Japan (and who entertained me on shore), assumes the
supreme authority. Again, we hear of the tribute sent
from these islands to China and to Japan : silver, gold,
and other valuable articles. From whence, with their
repeated assertions of poverty, nay, almost destitution, is
this tribute to be collected? Mines, they have none,
that we are aware of, and viewing the country with a
geological eye, I am unable to trace any metalliferous
rock. As soon, judging from its crust, would I seek for
the precious metals in Bermuda.

It is highly probable, as I before suggested, in the
case of the Meia-co-shimas, and from the ruined fortress
on the summit above Sheudi, the same argument will
apply, that the tribute from these regions in olden times
resulted in the piracies committed by those frequenting
these islands ; and that as these powers were suppressed,
their glory has faded until the present day. It is most
likely that when China ceased to send warlike expeditions
from her shores, they quietly fell under the sway of
Japan, which has probably lent her protection by form-
ing them into penal settlements. That these penal set-
tlements extend as far south as the scene of our disaster,
we know, as a chief, with two swords, was met there,
who wished to escape to the ' Samarang ', such, at least,
was the impression of my Coxswain, who was sent to
examine the bay for water ; but the swamping of the gig
and loss of instruments, prevented my making further
examination.

71

CHAPTER XII.

HONG-KONG AND THE PHILIPPINES.

Leave Loo-Choo — Touch at Pa-tchung-san — Botel Tobago — Arrive at
Hong-Kong — Refit and sail for Batan — Fall in with a Bremen
wreck — Keach Manila — Nicholas Shoal — Make Term Day Mag-
netic Observations — Arsenal of Cavite — Fortune Island — Looc Bay
— Lay in a store of wood — Fever caused by the fermentation of
wood when damp — Apo Island — Fall in with a nest of Pirates.
Island of Mindoro — Skirmish in the Bay of Ylin — Convenience
for obtaining supplies — Town of Mangarin — Garza Island — Semi-
rara — Pirate Island — Panagatan Group — Shoal of fish — Caga-
yancillo — Inhabitants — Structure of the Island — Calusa — Sam-
boanga — Inland Excursion — Country round Samboanga — Exami-
nation of Shoals extending from the Santa Cruz Islands —
Courtesy of the Governor, Colonel Figueroa.

ON the 22nd of August we took our final leave of the
French Padre and our Loo-Choo friends, arid as our
supply of provisions would not allow of any deviation
from the shortest route, we were compelled to abandon
all further examination of the Raleigh rock, Tia-usu, and
islands adjacent. Our course was, therefore, shaped for
Pa-tchung-san, which, after a short run of four days, we
reached on the morning of the 26th, anchoring in Port

72 RETURN TO THE MEIA-CO-SHIMAS. [1845.

Haddington about 8, A.M., and having obtained observa-
tions for the Chronometers, sailed the same evening.

Our friend Kieu-Anchee was, I thought, rather tardy
in making his appearance, but on his arrival, he endea-
voured to explain this apparent inattention, by stating
that it arose from his anxiety to keep a promise which he
had made, to procure two monster specimens of the
large furbelowed Clam (Tridacna gigas), and which he
informed me, his people would shortly bring to the beach.
His apparent coolness, which I attributed mainly to fresh
instructions from Loo-Choo, soon wore off, and I thought
that I could trace a certain nervousness, or a fluctuation
between duty and friendship, the latter certainly predomi-
nating. He would scarcely credit my resolve to sail im-
mediately, and left me very precipitately to obtain vege-
tables, and other little presents, as well as to hasten those
conveying the shells. Time, however, was too valuable
to us, and without the satisfaction of a formal leave-taking
we were soon distancing the port, and, with a fine breeze,
cleared the dangers before dark.

The breeze deserted us on rounding the western dan-
gers, and between these islands and the southern limit of
Formosa, we were harassed by contrary currents and
light baffling airs, reaching Botel Tobago on the 30th.

In this neighbourhood we continued to make many
traverses, taking advantage of every change in order to
cross the position assigned to Gadd's Rock, or Cumbrian
Reef; but without noticing the slightest indication of
ripple or breaker, sufficiently distinct to warrant the idea
of a shoal. The sea was perfectly smooth, and as our
latest authority, Captain Ross, assigns a depth of twelve

1845.] SAN DOMINGO. 73

feet over it, I imagine that it only breaks in rough wea-
ther. Soundings of 300 fathoms were obtained on one
occasion. The currents proving too strong for the pre-
vailing winds, and having made several fruitless attempts
to clear the Vele Rete rocks, endangering us constantly,
in the event of calm, of drifting either on them or Botel
Tobago, I determined, after seven days detention, on
making southing, and obtaining a fresh departure for our
Meridian distance from the Batan Islands.

On the morning of the 6th of September, T joined the
' Royalist ' with the Chronometer, and leaving the ' Sama-
rang ' to make her way to the westward, reached San
Domingo in time for the Observations. However, not much
progress was made by the 'Samarang,' for the next day, at
noon, the breeze had barely enabled her to hold her own,
about four miles to the westward of the town, where we
rejoined, and pursued our course more satisfactorily, taking
advantage of the southerly current between Batan and
Sabtan, after which I knew that we should fall into the pre-
vailing set to the south-west. I would strongly advise
vessels similarly circumstanced, to lose no time with an
adverse wind in the vicinity of Formosa and Botel Tobago,
as the currents setting to leaward neutralise what would
otherwise be deemed a fair working breeze. Whereas,
by standing boldly to the southward until attaining
the Latitude of the S.W. point of Ibayat, the south-
westerly current will be gained. Had I been free in
my choice, I should, without hesitation, have steered
direct for Batan, in the first instance, and reaching it on
the 1st of September, have gained, at the very least, five
days.

74 HONG-KONG. [1845.

Nothing worthy of notice occurring, we reached
Hong-Kong on the 14th, where we found the ' Castor ',
' Vixen' ,' Driver ', and 'Espiegle'. Capt. Graham, of
the 'Castor', still Senior Officer. On the 15th, the
Admiral made his appearance in the 'Agincourt', ac-
companied by the 'Vestal', Capt. Talbot, 'Daedalus',
Capt. M'c Quhaee, and Wolverine, last from Manila,
but previously from the expedition to Maludu Bay, where
the stronghold of Seriff Hoosman, before alluded to in
this work, was destroyed by the boats of the Squadron,
under the command of Capt. Talbot of the ' Vestal ',
and Capt. Lyster, of the ' Agincourt '. Our refit having
been completed, we quitted Hong-Kong on the 1st of
November, accompanied by the ' Royalist ', our first ren-
dezvous being San Domingo, Batan. On the evening of
the 3rd, when near the Pratas Shoals, a sharp gale set
in from the N.E., which continued to increase, parting
us from the ' Royalist ' ; this prevailed until the 9th,
and on the 19th, we anchored at Batan ; as the ' Royalist '
was not there, and did not arrive during our stay, I
began to feel rather anxious about her. Before com-
municating with the shore, the authorities sent off,
apprizing me that the Bremen brig, 'Express', from
Mazatlan, bound to China, had been wrecked in the Bay
of Manan'ioy, on the eastern side of Batan, but that the
crew and property were safe. I had already sent to offer
assistance, and the conveyance of her crew to Manila,
when her supercargo, Mr. Vischer, came to pay his
respects, and to request that I would receive his cargo,
consisting of specie to the amount of 85,000 dollars,
which had been saved. To our mutual surprise and

1845.] WRECK OF A BREMEN BRIG. 75

gratification, he proved to belong to the firm of Kayser
Hayn, and Co., of Mazatlan and Acapulco, to the princi-
pals of which I had been under great obligation during my
visits to those ports in the ' Sulphur ', and Mr. Vischer
and myself had also met under peculiar circumstances at
Manzanilla. After very few communications relative to
his disaster, he was assured of a home on board the
' Samarang ', as well as passage for his crew, &c., to
Manila; and taking into consideration the absence of
any other authority, measures were immediately adopted
for the security of his cargo saved.

Previous to my arrival, an engagement had been
entered into by a young Spaniard, belonging to the
province of Ilocos al Norte, to purchase the hull and gear
of the brig, and to carry the Master, crew and Super-
cargo, for a stipulated sum in a native vessel to Manila.
Interference, on my part, was delicate, but the Super-
cargo preferred accompanying his freight in a sound
bottom, consenting still to pay the stipulated agree-
ment, if the vessel was found fit, and that he would
not flinch from any part of his contract if his master and
crew would consent to risk their lives with the con-
tractor, or, failing in this, the original forfeiture, as
agreed, of half the amount. It is necessary, in order to
comprehend this matter, properly, to understand, that
unless this vessel could be safely navigated to Manila by
the Bremen crew, that the sum agreed on for the wreck
(the valuable parts of which were to be embarked) would
not be forthcoming ; in fact, that the sum offered, was
upon this condition.

It was apparent to the eye of any seaman that the vessel

76 BATAN. [1845.

was unfit and unsafe, and further, that the lives of the
Bremen crew would be jeoparded. Still the Bremeners
most handsomely declared that they would stick by their
friend so long as a fair chance remained of fulfilling his
contract ; and to prevent risk on all sides, as well as to
afford assistance, our crew aided in getting the vessel into
the water. When this was effected, and after great diffi-
culty, she was secured in the anchorage of San Vicente,
near Ivana, it was found perfectly impossible to proceed
in her ; arranging their money affairs, therefore, very much
I believe to the satisfaction of all parties, the Bremeners
joined the ' Samarang ' with lighter hearts, and our own
immediate affairs settled, we quitted this, our pet island,
on the 30th of November. As the breeze, during the
night and succeeding day, gave us a velocity of between
eight and ten knots, under small canvas, our friends
congratulated themselves on what they deemed an escape.
Up to the period of departure, there were no signs of
the 'Royalist', but having given Manila, as well as
Hong-Kong, as secondary rendezvous, in the event of
accident to spars, which was suspected, I still looked for
her at the port we were now bound for. In this I was
not mistaken, as we found, on being boarded by the guard-
boat, passing the Corregidor, that her arrival was notified
some days before, and on our passing Cavite, on the 6th
of December, her signal was descried at her mast-head,
showing over the Arsenal. Calms and variable winds
prevented dropping anchor off Manila until late that
evening, but on the arrival of her Commander, Lieut.
Ogle, he acquainted me, that in the gale experienced off
the Pratas, he had sprung his fore-mast badly, and

1845.] SAN NICOLAS SHOALS. 77

parted his bobstays, and finding it impossible to preserve
his spars under the heavy head sea which prevailed, he
had run hither to repair damages. He also acquainted
me with the very great courtesy which he had experienced
from the Governor of Manila, and the Brigadier command-
ing the Naval forces of Spain in the Philippines, as well
as the kindness and facilities afforded him by Captain
Villavicentio, Commandant of the Arsenal at Cavite.
After paying my respects to His Excellency, General
Claveria, Governor- General of the Philippines, and
thanking him for his attention, I suggested the propriety
of making a minute examination of the San Nicolas
shoals, which at this moment presented new features, from
the failure of a plan conceived, I believe, by Capt.
Salomon, the previous Captain of the port, for converting
it into an island. This was to be effected by sinking a
vessel charged with soil and young Mangrove trees, im-
mediately on the crest of the bank, on which there was
previously ten feet, and by filling around her with stones
it was hoped, that in a few years, the coralline zoo-
phytes would agglutinate all so firmly, that a conspicuous
island, and, ultimately, a light-house would beacon this
danger. Nature, however, rebelled, leaving a pile of stones
and the fluke of an anchor, over which there is now about
three feet at low water. Permission was granted, and
during our detention for the ' Royalist ', the boats found
occupation in outlining this new bank.

Great difficulty was experienced in meeting with a
spar fit to replace the injured fore-mast ; several were
tried, but proved unsound, and as her old mast was too
heavy, and none but those of treble its density could be

78 DETENTION AT Bt ANIL A. [1845.

met with, it was at length determined to remedy the
defective one, by adding hard wood head and cheeks.
This was effected about the 2nd of January, 1846, and
on the 4th, the ' Royalist ' rejoined us, ready for sea.
By the kindness of the authorities we were permitted to
make our term-day Magnetic Observations at the end of
the Commandant's garden, in the Arsenal of Cavite ; the
entire ground about Manila being charged with old guns,
&c., which vitiated the results. After which, having
completed our stores at Manila, we took our final leave
of Manila Bay on the 1 Oth. During the greater part of
our detention, the ' Samarang ' had anchored immediately
off the Arsenal at Cavite, in order to afford the aid of
our carpenters and armourers, in the refit of the
' Royalist.' During the whole of this period, both Lieut,
Ogle and myself received the most marked hospitality
and kindness from Capt. Villavicentio, as well as every
assistance in his public capacity as Commandant of the
Arsenal. To him I am also indebted for most important
information relative to the Illaiion pirates about the
region of Mindanao, as well as directions for many of the
harbours visited by the gun-boats, and which were almost
unknown or entirely omitted upon the Charts supplied
to us.

I cannot take leave of Manila without repeating my
expressions of gratitude for the kindness experienced
from my friend Mr. Otadui, particularly in my commu-
nications with His Excellency, General Claveria, and I feel
persuaded, that to his manner of interpreting my wishes, I
am indebted for the very marked favours which were con-
ceded. Manila was, indeed, throughout our rambles in

1845.] LOOC BAY. 79

this part of the world, the pleasantest spot we frequented,
and to the society, generally, all are more or less sensible
of many pleasant reminiscences.

Quitting Manila, and acting upon information from
the Commandant at the Corregidor, we searched for
a shoal, on which the gun-boats had anchored, near
Fortune Island, and before sunset that evening the
' Samarang ' and barges had taken up their stations, in
nineteen fathoms, precisely agreeing with our information.
On the day following, during our detention for the
' Royalist ', sent to Manila for final despatches, Observa-
tions were obtained on Fortune Island, and the following
morning, on rejoining her we stood on to the southward,
in search of a new harbour, termed Looc Bay, situated
on the eastern side of the Island of Luban. As these
islands are exhibited on a very small scale upon the
Charts, no one would dream of seeking for an asylum in
such an unfrequented spot ; but the information of my
Manila friends had given such an interest to this locality
that I determined upon its examination, as it possibly
might afford shelter to distressed vessel coming from
the Strait of St. Bernardino, and exposed to the " nor-
thers ", which are frequently experienced on opening the
great Bay of Manila. Our visit cleared up one point
which might have proved fatal to the ' Royalist ', as she
had been directed to pass through betweeii Luban and
its neighbour ; a passage which was discovered from our
mast-heads to be completely barred by rocks. On the
morning of the 12th of January, we dropped our anchor
in Looc * Bay, and proceeded with its survey. On the

* The term Looc, is, in the Malay and Bisayan langague, Bay,

80 STOCK AND PROVISIONS. [1845.

day following I visited the village in the depth of the
bay, and succeded in obtaining wood, water, Bullocks,
and vegetables. We had been informed that Bullocks and
stock would be met with here in greater abundance and
perfection than at our garden of Eden, Batan. This we
found to be totally at variance with fact, as well as the dis-
position of the population. All the cattle produced were
infinitely inferior, and dearer ; and with respect to vege-
tables, Pumpkins were the only kind to be obtained, and
those not without some difficulty. The supplies at this
spot may possibly depend upon the notice given, and are,
doubtless, kept concealed in the interior, as it was upon
this place that the Illanons, a few years since, made a
descent over the neck of land, which is accessible from
the south, ransacked the village, and carried off all the
marketable boys and girls. Our arrival there on the first
day probably excited suspicion ; but when we did pay our
visit, we found the prices most exorbitant, fowls being
nearly as dear as in Manila. The bay is pretty free from
dangers at the mouth, and good holding ground will be
found in depths between ten and twenty fathoms. Within
the former depth it suddenly shoals, and several lines of
coral ledge bar the inner depths of the bay from direct
access, although excellent shelter would be found by a
vessel moored between these barriers, to which they
might easily be conducted. At the village, a brisk rivulet
supplies most excellent water ; but boats cannot fill ex-
cepting at high water. We found large stacks of very
nicely prepared fire-wood, probably intended for Manila

therefore, Looc Say is incorrect ; as the town is patronized by San
Rafael, the Bay should bear his name.

1846.] STORING OF WOOD. 81

consumption, and as as it was very reasonable and clean,
we completed our available stowage with it.

Those who are curious in the investigation of the
causes of fever and other attacks to which seamen are
liable, seem to have overlooked this, one of the most
obvious of mischiefs, on shipboard. In the year 1830,
my attention was directed to this subject ; in the fitting
and storing of H.M.S. 'JEtna', not a single article of
moist wood, or other matter which could ferment in the
holds, was permitted to be embarked. All casks were de-
prived of wooden hoops, and were carefully white-washed
and dried (under the direction of Mr., now Commander,
Town, at Clarence Victualling Yard), the flour was packed
in water casks, and the dry provision in tanks. Great
circumspection was exercised throughout the period which
she remained under my command; and although my
predecessors, Officers and crew, in the ' Hecla ' died, or
were invalided, still we continued healthy ; and but one
soul died in the course of three years and a half, chiefly
on the most unhealthy parts of Africa, situated between
Sierra Leone and the Gambia; and this man was a
supernumerary. Nearly the same good fortune attended
the ' Sulphur ', until the fever of China attacked those
exposed to the damp ground on Canton Heights. I am
therefore particular in alluding to this purchase of dry
wood, an acquisition which I never lost sight of, and
frequently, nay, invariably, looked after, to the interest of
my Purser, as well as of my crew. I feel satisfied that
to the fermentation resulting from the Mangrove bark,
which peels off on drying, and falls into the lower part of
the hold, where it meets with other moist substances,

VOL. II. G

82 ISLAND OF LUBAN. [1846.

may be attributed many of the unaccountable affections
to which seamen are subject in tropical climates.

The composition of the shores of Luban, as far as we
were able to inspect the crust, appeared to be a mixture
of clay and Mica slates, frequently traversed by ' dykes
of quartz, and occasionally of carbonate of Lime. The
northern point of the bay, which is termed Punta
Tumbaga (or Copper Point) is of a deep greenish hue,
evidently charged with the oxide of this metal, and in
some cases, where the water filters through, apparently
in the state of the blue sulphate, discolouring, and preci-
pitating on, the point of my penknife. The authorities
at Manila designate the island as rich " in minerals."

Having completed our examination of this bay, the
ship and ' Royalist ' were directed to pass round by the
eastern end of Ambil, and pick up the boats before en-
tering the passage between Luban and Isla Cabras.
Keeping the boats under my direction, we proceeded
within the islands, examining the indentations of both for
fresh water or anchorage, which I had been informed
were to be found convenient on the western side of Ambil.
A very small harbour for boats was noticed, in which I
observed one of their Faluas at anchor ; but as the spot
was insignificant, I did not lose time by further delay.
About noon, we were abreast of a very large village,*
situated in the northern centre of Luban, and, as we had
been informed, protected from northerly gales by a very
extensive coral patch very near the water's edge. Never-
theless I should have hesitation in risking one of Her
Majesty's Ships in such a very exposed situation. Re-
joining the ' Samarang ', and favoured by a gentle breeze

* Tagbach.

1 846.] APO ISLAND. 83

and the most beautiful weather, we grazed Cabras Island
and rounded to under its southern face, continued sur-
veying its southern limits, and by sunset found secure
anchorage under its lee, where the barges were hoisted in
board, preparatory to a run for the southern end of Min-
doro. Quitting Cabras that evening, on the morning of
the 16th we effected a landing on the inner Apo Island,
for Observations to fix its position, the ship having orders
to preserve a distance of five miles, and the ' Royalist ' to
extend her distance W.N.W., in sight of the ship, in
search of a shoal said to exist in that direction, which she
fortunately found, and dropped her anchor on it; the
least water found by her boats being three fathoms, and
the distance from the lesser Apo rocks being determined
to be eleven miles, bearing N. 73° W. true.

The cutter, with her gun, had been ordered to accom-
pany us, in case of requiring measurement for base ; but
shortly after landing upon this apparently desolate rock,
we noticed two boats approaching from the larger island,
and go to the rear of our position. When opportunity
admitted of my quitting the instruments, I proceeded to
examine the rocks, and, very much to my astonishment,
discovered a complete nest of what were, doubtless, pirates,
when convenient prey offered. The interior of this coralline
mass which was much worn by the sea, presented a series
of cavities, which were taken possession of as chambers, and
game cocks, the almost invariable companion as well as
decoy bird of these people, might be noticed, tethered in
every direction. The exuviae of Turtle, of several species,
dried fish, nets, &c., afforded a fair pretext for the harm-
less and peaceable pursuit of fishermen ; but there was

G 2

84 NEST OF PIRATES. [1846.

that about the manner and restless eyes of the leaders
which implied, we know that you are too strong for us,
and your ship would not suffer you to be wronged with
impunity; otherwise, had the gig been alone, I suspect
that they would not have hesitated on taking us to a better
market than the Apo Islands afforded. Their number, if
we saw the whole of them, might be reckoned at tlurty,
but I suspect that many were concealed in the chambers, as
well as others, allies, on the great island, where they had,
doubtless, left their women protected. As due notice of
this important nest was given to the Spanish authorities,
it is to be presumed that long ere this, their vocation has
been made a matter of stricter investigation than I was
entitled to undertake. I am perfectly satisfied that any
merchant vessel becalmed near the greater Apo Island
would easily be captured by these people, and her absence,
probably assigned to foundering.

The position of the inner Apo Island, or rock, was
determined to be in Lat. 1 2° 40' 4" N., Long. 1 20° 24' E.,
distant a mile and a half from the greater island, which is
covered with trees. A reef extends off the western point
of this latter island. The passage between the two islands
is deep, and all the dangers are visible in clear weather ;
we did not obtain soundings with sixty fathoms in the
channel. The light airs during the night having pre-
vented our progress towards Mindoro, a landing was
effected on one of the nearest Calamianes, and Obser-
vations obtained for correcting a partial survey made
in our progress, to Manila in December last. From
thence we stood across towards Mindoro, and shortly
before daylight found ourselves in the vicinity of land
which the Charts did not indicate. In the morning we

1846.] YLIN AND MINDOEO. 85

stood into the bay, formed by the Island of Ylin and
Mindoro, anchoring near the Island of Garza, upon
which I determined to establish my principal station.

The south-west portion of Mindoro, including the
Islands of Ylin and Ambolon, had long occupied a sus-
picious position on the Charts, and reefs were reported to
extend off the latter Islands for some miles to the westward.
This being one of the remarkable projections in the main
road si these seas it was important that its actual dangers
should be delineated. Further, the entire group of islands
contained between Mindoro and Panay, were so grossly
in error, under the loose appellation of "the Semirara
Group ", that navigation was dangerous without a pilot.
From my informants at Manila I was led to expect safe
channels between the Islands of Ylin, Ambolon and Min-
doro ; and that water and refreshments, so important to
vessels making the passage by this route from Batavia,
Macassar or Samboanga, might be procured. These
were objects of consideration also for the health and
comfort of our crew, and always most anxiously sought by
vessels employed on this special service. Indeed, it was
in the immediate vicinity of this part of Mindoro that
we fell in with the ' Young Queen ', returning from the
Kotai river to Manila, in 1843, in distress for water, which,
had we been possessed of certain information, would have
enabled her to supply her wants without further anxiety.

No signs of inhabitants were noticed in the neighbour-
hood of the great bay, formed by Mindoro and Ylin, but
some stray huts were noticed about the cleared ground
upon the latter island.

Our operations proceeded without accident until wo

86 SKIRMISH. [1846.

rounded the west point of Ylin, and came upon the vicinity
of the village of that name, situated in an open bay facing
the north-west. I was then pulling to a station on that
side of the channel, when a party of natives showed
themselves on the brow of the hill, and shot an arrow at
me, which missed. At this time I was unarmed, and in a
light extra gig used for landing over the reefs ; some delay
ensued before my own gig came up, when the assailants
were chased, and made good their retreat somewhat
diminished in valour, after one or two ringing shots
marked the branches in the direction in which they had
fled. To prevent further accident, I pulled immediately
to their town, and giving them to understand that any
repetition of such pranks would meet with severe punish-
ment to the community, measures were taken by the
Alcalde for preventing it. The chief spokesman, although
not the Alcalde, seemed to possess great influence over
the village, and from the general tenor of his conversa-
tion and questions I shall not, perhaps, err very widely
in assuming that he is connected with the pirates. He
was a complete pilot for all the creeks and ports from
Manila to Samboanga, and the pirate haunts as far as
Sooloo. He was acquainted with several merchants at
Manila, but from his intimate knowledge of all the pirate
haunts and practices, he must have been in closer contact
than the gun-boat crews to which he intimated that he
formerly belonged.

We found a most excellent run of water, but difficult
to embark, owing to the shore being dry at least 200
yards from the mouth of the stream, and the tide only
admitting our heavy boats at high water. A very snug

1846.] PORT OF MANDARIN. 87

little boat-harbour is formed within the coral reef, and
anchorage for the ' Samarang ' was found at a convenient
space without it. Fowls, eggs, grain and vegetables were
procured very reasonable ; and our informant stated that
we should meet with plenty of cattle and stock at the town
of Mangarin, situated near the northern end of the
channel between Ylin and Mindoro. Moving thither, the
' Royalist ' was securely anchored in the very snug little
Port of Mangarin, formed by the extension of a tongue
of Shingle across the mouth of its bay.

My visit to the town of Mangarin was fruitless ; very
little to be procured, and that exorbitantly dear. The
Padre being absent, Bullocks were not to be had ; in-
deed, our visit appeared to discompose them so much
that I was quite at a loss to account for the hostile com-
plexion which they seemed to assume. Our purchases
amounted to six or eight eggs, and heartily disgusted with
their proceedings, I left them to discuss the motives of our
visit, which, no doubt, had some superstitious foundation.

When we call to mind the present state of the natives of
Luzon, even in the vicinity of Manila, where the Governor
did not consider us safe without a guard of Cavalry, lest our
instruments should excite their superstition ; and the ad-
ditional circumstance of one of our countrymen having
been very severely wounded because he possessed a few
bottles of beer, which they fancied was poison, it will not
appear at all extraordinary that these people, never visited
but by the crews of the Faluas, as ignorant nearly as
themselves, should feel alarm at the number of boats,
men, and instruments which they met at every point.
The village of Ylin, therefore, is the only place where I

88 AMBOLON. [1846.

would recommend a vessel to call for supplies; there
they can be obtained cheap, and good humour seems to
animate all classes.

The country in the neighbourhood of our survey was
particularly mountainous, but the coast-line for a great
distance inland on Mindoro, traversed by estuaries form-
ing an extensive swampy Mangrove Archipelago. Not so
the Island of Ylin, it was accessible on ah1 sides, and some
of its southern cliffs rose abruptly to the height of 200
feet. The island is well wooded, but excepting on the N.W.
near the village, but very little cleared land. Another por-
tion, in a deep bay opposite to the ship, appeared to be
undergoing the same process of clearing, and near this spot
another of our boats was treated with a flight of arrows,
probably at the same time that they paid me the compli-
ment. Ambolon is uninhabited and uncultivated. It is
almost, if not quite, divided by a swampy lagoon, forming
a small harbour on the west. The rocks throughout these
parts are of slaty mica schist, excepting the south point of
Ylin, which is a compact coralline limestone with caves con-
taining stalactites, &c. We found all the channels between
the islands navigable, but requiring caution. The dangers
reported westerly of Ambolon were not discovered ; none
exist westward of a north and south line grazing that island,
within half a mile, but several within it are now placed on
the Charts. The general scenery is pleasing, some of the
sequestered bays delightful, and our cruize of six days in
the boats formed quite a pleasurable excursion. Deter-
mined to prove the security of the channels, the ' Sanaa-
rang ' was taken through the Ylin Strait, and anchored off
the village of Ylin, where we contrived to take on board

1846.] SEMIRARA. 89

about 800 gallons of water during our detention for stock.
This was more for the purpose of proving the practicability
than as a watering service ; the spring from which we
obtained it was at the first cliff south of the town. The
position of Garza Island in the great bay, was found to
be in Lat. 12° 12' 26" N., Long. 121° 9' E., Var. 0° 23'
34" W., Dip. 11° 22'.

Quitting Mindoro we steered for the Island of Semi-
rara, and commenced its survey. It is not the island so
named on the Charts, but one north of it. Nothing
worthy of notice occurred here; we observed a town
upon the crest of a hill with the Spanish colours flying,
but could not induce any of the people either to visit us
or shew themselves near the shore. The island contains
a large quantity of cleared and apparently fertile land,
with some elevations, but rounded, and seemingly under
cultivation ; the prevailing rocks are slaty on the eleva-
tions but coralline at base.

About this period, finding our provisions diminish
rapidly, and fearing that our intended operations on the
northern coast of Borneo might be cramped, I determined
on taking the available provisions of the ' Royalist ', and
despatched her to Singapore for fresh supplies, with instruc-
tions to rejoin at the Island of Balambangan, and to call
in at Sarawak for any communication which Mr. Brooke
might be able to furnish, at the same time sending him
an invitation to join us, and recruit his health by the sea
air and amusement which he might experience at Tam-
passook, Borneo, and the other rivers on the northern
coast. On the evening of the Gth of February the
' Royalist ' parted company on this service, carrying our
despatches for England.

90 PIRATE ISLAND. [1846.

From Semirara we revisited and connected the Pana-
gatan group, on the eastern islet of which we found the
remains of a temporary Malay village, and one of their
party dead. He appeared to have been left there, as he was
not buried but remained in the position in which he had
died, to all appearance, in agony. His clothes were loosely
drawn round him, and it occurred to me that he might have
met with foul play, but I was unable to trace any symp-
toms of violence ; it is possible that he might have been
wrecked in his canoe, and died from starvation. From
this island we proceeded to one directly east, being that to
which the name of Semirara is generally applied. As it
had no name, and had been designated by our Ylin
authority as inhabited by Orang jakat (bad people), it
received the temporary name of Pirate Island. It is
apparently capable of cultivation, the principal part pre-
senting a smooth gently undulating surface, terminating
at the western extremity by lofty abrupt cliffs. No conve-
nient anchorage was obtained, although necessity induced
me to moor the ship on the edge of the coral bank in
twenty-five fathoms, with the kedge little beyond her
own length in three fathoms, and at sixty yards seaward
no bottom with 100 fathoms. A lake of fresh water was
found, and symptoms of inhabitants were noticed at the
eastern extreme, where they had, after the fashion of the
Bajow tribes of Borneo, been making salt, by boiling
sea- weed in earthen vessels. Another island, not examined
by us, was situated to the E.N.E.

Quitting Pirate Island, our attention was directed to a
small islet observed from the highest peak of Pirate
Island, which proved entirely new ; it was well inhabited,

1846.] PANAGATAN GROUP. 91

and designated by the natives, who were Bisayans, or,
a colony of Los Moros, Mag^igfiin. From their conver-
sation, which was maintained between bad Spanish and
Bisayan, they exhibited little affection towards the
Spanish Government, and having been described by our
Ylin interpreter as bad, were, doubtless, friends of Los
Moros. The island is small, with a considerable elevation
in its centre, and has an enclosed palisaded village on the
S.W. The position of the western peninsular clump was
determined to be in Lat. 11° 36' 10" N, Long. 120° 37'
25" E.

From hence we returned to Panagatan, after which, our
course was directed for the Cagayanes, with the intention
of completing the survey commenced in December, 1845.
Shortly after midnight on the 13th of February we struck
soundings in fifty fathoms, and hauled easterly into deeper
water, until the following morning, when passing down the
eastern side of the shoals, we selected a small coral islet,
discovered on our former visit, for our main position.
Having obtained all that we required here, we then pro-
ceeded to search for a line of shoals northerly, said to ex-
tend fifty or]sixty miles, and on which we had already ob-
tained the one cast of fifty fathoms. By dint of very close
watching we managed to keep upon the edge of the sound-
ings until noon the following day, the least water obtained
by the ship being eight fathoms and a half, although from
the ripples noticed, it is highly probable that dangerous
spots exist, but being out of sight of land can only be fixed
by Astronomical sea observations, and from the strength of
the currents, and prevalent light airs, unsafe for a sailing
vessel to examine. At the moment of rounding the

92 SURVEYING PARTY. [1846.

northern extremity of these patches our reckoning placed
us thirty miles, north half qast, of the south-western end
of the Cagayan group, or twenty-six miles and a half
north of the highest detached northern islet. Early on
the morning of the 16th, having kept on the edge of the
soundings, we approached the northern breakers of the
Cagayanes within one mile, and taking the boats, in ad-
dition to my gig, quitted the ship, with two days provi-
sions, in order to outline the dangers and finish the coast-
line, the Officer left in command having instructions to
look out upon us for signals, and to ascertain the general
limits of the soundings off this group. The second
master had also been detached in one of the cutters to
obtain a station on the north-eastern island, rejoining the
boat division by sunset ; where he found us very snugly
encamped upon a sandy tongue, on which we spent the
night. Whilst our supper, or more properly dinner, was
in preparation, I strolled to the^ end of this tongue to
view several shoals of fish which were playing in the
eddies, wishing much for a net to encircle some for our
repast. Hardly had the wish been conceived before'several
sharks made a desperate dash amongst them, and in the
course of the panic forced several on shore at my feet, the
sharks themselves literally grounding. The suddenness
of the dash, added to some little fear that I was the ob-
ject they aimed at, and their exertions to regain the
water, prevented my being so alert as 1 might have
been, and but two of the fish were secured for our repast,
much to the chagrin of my Sandwich Island attendant,
who sprang at the sharks themselves, thinking them bet-
ter booty. In the morning we recommenced operations,

1846.] PUEBLO OF CAGAYANCILLO. 93

reaching the Pueblo, which bears the name of Cagayan-
cillo, about noon.

Upon a small peninsula jutting from the bay, and in a
very commanding position, is situated the fort, and within
it the .church. It is a high walled parallellogram, en
barbet, evidently of Spanish construction, and has several
small brass guns or swivels, but not a serviceable carriage.
The flagstaff bore what I suspect to be a tablecloth, cer-
tainly not the national colours of Spain; and as no
troops were present, and the place was not under the
control of any military character, some little doubt seems
to exist as to whom it is subject. The Alcalde Mayor, as
he styled himself, a jolly, good-natured character, who
managed our purchases, and made himself very useful,
acquainted me, that they were under the control of An-
tique, a town on the coast of Panay, nearly east from the
group, and that the Padre from that place occasionally
visited them. But subsequent information threw some
doubt upon this statement, as neither Cagayan nor the name
of the Padre could be found in the official Colonial List.
However, the greater part of them understand Spanish, and
as those belonging to the convents wrote it, as well as the
name of their priest, it may be safely assumed, as they
frequent the church, and acknowledge the Catholic reli-
gion, that they are not Moors (or Mahomedan), as some
have suggested. Their dialect is Bisayan, similar to that
in use on the coast of Panay. The principal part of the
village, which is concealed, and conveniently shaded by a
thick screen of Cocoa-nut, as well as garden trees of
close foliage, runs in a line parallel to the coast in a
single street, until reaching the sandy bay southerly of

94 STOCK OF PROVISIONS. [1846.

the fort, where it abuts and forms a fresh cluster,
apparently, of fishermen's houses. It is at this spot that
their wells are dug, on which it appears they are entirely
dependent for water, and which being partially infiltrated
from the sea is not particularly pure. The houses are
constructed on posts, having the floor raised about six
feet above the earth forming beneath the customary pig-
sty, poultry pen, and receptacle for the filth of the house,
similar to most of the Bisayan villages. Cattle appeared
to flourish, and several were procured at moderate prices
(six to ten dollars) for the crew, as well as some tolerably
large hogs. Poultry were also moderate, but vegetables
scarce. Cocoa-nuts abound, and as the milk of this fruit,
averaging three half-pints per nut, very much conduced
to the health, as well as gratification, of our crew, a suffi-
cient stock was procured.

The principal part of the active population was absent
on their fishing excursion to the Island of Calusa, situated
about fifteen miles to the westward. The natives of both
sexes are a fine clean-limbed people, superior to the
general race of Bisayans noticed elsewhere. This may
possibly arise from the greater prevalence of fishing pur-
suits, which I have noticed in many parts of the world to
produce a corresponding clearness of complexion and
brightness of eye, almost constituting a superior breed.

The first instance in which I recollect to have noticed
this, was at Cape Blanco in 1 832, where we met the fishing
vessels of the Canaries, and it was remarked generally
that the people engaged in these were of a lighter, clearer
complexion, and superior address ; so much so, as to elicit
the remark, " that they appeared gentlemen in disguise."

1846.] COMPLEXION OF FISHERMEN. 95

The same observation holds with regard to the natives of
the Sandwich Islands and Tahiti, who are said to have
degenerated since the introduction of religion, or rather
the Tabu against bathing and fishing, formerly practised;
and lastly, to come even to the Equatorial regions, we
have the Bajows, or fishermen of Borneo, some shades
whiter than their brethren of the interior. The use of
fish may have its weight, but the fact of their possessing
a purer skin and cleaner complexion remains. The race
at Cagayan appears, however, to possess a greater mixture
of Malay and Spanish than was observed at Luban, Ylin,
or Samboanga. The interior of their habitations was
more cleanly, and but very few instances were remarked
of their using the Areka. I noticed, however, one or two
plants of the sirih (or leaf in which it is enveloped, in
order to form, with lime, the bujio) very carefully
trained over a lattice work and guarded by a fencing,
which shews that it is still considered as a luxury. I did
not, however, notice any of the Areka Palm beyond the
village gardens, and of these but few.

The entire group presents the appearance of an up-
heaved mass, the composition of the greatest elevations,
which are rugged and weather-worn, being entirely similar
to the coral islands of the Pacific, and exhibiting com-
plete forms of brain-stone madrepores, and other zoo-
phytes. On this account they offer but little opportunity
for cultivation, being entirely dependent, in some places,
on the small portions of earth which have been filled into
the cavities. On the great island immediately above the
town, the soil is more abundant, the surface of the hill
smooth and composed of a reddish earth, apparently

96 SANDBANKS, &C. [1846.

decomposed vegetable matter. As it approaches the
town, or base for the Cocoa-nut trees, the soil becomes
darker, probably from greater attention to cultivation,
and mixture of manure ; but I remarked that wherever the
soil had been disturbed to any depth, or where the land
crabs had carried on their operations, that the sub-soil
consisted entirely of comminuted coral matter. The
island being, therefore, deficient in the composition of the
older strata is not in a condition either to retain or convey
its casual supplies of water to the lower levels, and for this
reason, as well as from the coral debris noticed at the wells
it cannot at any time be so pure as that of more primitive
formations. After a very close examination of the
northern entrance to the sound, formed by the greater
islands, it was ascertained that it is barred by sand-
banks, which would not admit of vessels drawing above
twelve feet ; a channel might, however, be easily dredged
through this obstacle, although it would soon close again
by the constant undulation prevailing within the reefs.
At present it would afford a secure asylum to small ves-
sels, drawing from ten to twelve feet, and in the event of
war, would become a most important position for annoying
the trade of these seas. The interior of the sound is
deep, and its numerous picturesque bays afford eligible
situations for forming jetties or other buildings for marine
purposes. The scenery reminded me very much of some
of the sequestered spots about Bermuda ; the principal
trees, however, differ here, they are mostly of the palm
tribe, with the underwood composed of the Hibiscus and
other shrubs prevalent in these regions ; no hard wood
trees were noticed.

1846.] ISLAND OF CALUSA. 97

From Cagayan we stood over to Calusa, and edged
round its breaker line in the hope of meeting with
anchorage, but as this search proved unsuccessful, we
landed to determine its position. At first, I suspected
the island to be thickly inhabited, but we soon discovered
that they were only the fishing parties from Cagayan,
who paid the island a visit in order to obtain a supply of
Cocoa-nuts, with which it abounds. The entire island,
occupying a space of about 1500 yards in circumference,
is thickly studded with these trees, and the underwood
so dense, as to render it a difficult matter to get out if
once caught within its labyrinths. After purchasing some
hundreds of this fruit, we returned to Cagayan, where we
found some of the fair ones very much alarmed at the
non-arrival of the boats containing their better halves,
and which a strong adverse wind had forced to leeward.
They were much pleased to hear of their safety, from us,
and at about the period of our departure most of them
were near their port. These vessels are about the usual
build of prahus, of forty feet, sharp at each end, with a
good midship section, but deficient in bearing at either
extremity. Yet in these frail craft they make their
voyages to the coast of Panay, laden with dried fish, and
returning with cotton goods.

Quitting Cagayan, we steered for the coast of Min-
danao, selecting our watering station on the western
shore for our principal meridian. On the night of the
21st, we dropped anchor, and having obtained observa-
tions, moved on to our old position off the town of Sam-
boanga, where I had an opportunity of renewing my
acquaintance with the Governor, Colonel Figueroa.

VOL. n. H

98 INLAND EXCURSION. [1846.

On our last visit he had been compelled to quit at the
moment that the naval authorities had interfered about
our sounding operations. This was now satisfactorily
explained, and, as I imagined, had been a mistake alto-
gether, or rather, it had not been officially notified. As
our duties did not confine us so closely as on our former
visit, the Governor and his friends made up a party for
an inland excursion, or pic-nic, which we enjoyed amaz-
ingly, obtaining from our elevated position a most com-
manding view of all the surrounding coast and islands
up to Basilan. The position where we rested was the
inland Vigia or Guard-house, established to keep in check
the lawless mountaineers, who are equally dreaded with
the Moros, of whom, indeed, they are the counterpart,
on the soil, and connected by the Bay of Illana. But
these mountaineers are less merciful than their brethren
of the sea, generally spearing their victim, whom they
cannot very conveniently carry away, and whom it would
be impolitic to spare, lest he should tell tales. A pleasant
rivulet winds through this region, having sufficient depth
for bathing, in which many indulged after the fatigues of
the chase. It was expected that deer and mountain
cocks, the beautiful and graceful Malay bird, would have
been added to the spoils, but monkeys and woodpeckers
were, I believe, the only game produced ; a pair of the
cocks were noticed, but too wary to be killed.

This excursion proved to us that our judgment relative
to the quantity of land under cultivation between the
coast-line and the base of the mountains was much under-
rated. The width of the available land, extending about
twenty miles along the coast, westerly, may be reckoned

1846.] ABUNDANCE OF STOCK. 99

at three miles, and that used for pasturage on the cleared
hills about the same distance, making a line of country
twenty miles in length, and six in depth, as solely de-
pendent on the town of Samboanga. Throughout this
extent, streams of excellent water pervade, forming on an
average about one for each mile. The land in the imme-
diate vicinity of the town is laid out in gardens and fields,
producing all the fruits and vegetables generally found
in these regions. Stock of all kinds exists in abundance,
but I am sorry to say that the scale of prices is very
exorbitant, particularly for bullocks and vegetables.
Washing is enormously expensive, and infamously exe-
cuted, worse than that generally performed by seamen.
As the colony is under surveillance, and one person alone
authorized to deal with strangers, this cannot create sur-
prise, but as this individual chose to give himself more
airs than became him, and capriciously impeded our
supplies of bullocks, I was compelled to turn him over to
the mercy of the higher authorities, who would not coun-
tenance his insolence to military authority. This conduct
caused a considerable reduction in his profits, and will,
probably, produce a stricter look out upon his proceedings
with future visitors.

Our operations in this region were more particularly
directed to the completion of the shoals extending from
the Santa Cruz islands, situated about two miles imme-
diately to the southward of the town, and from which,
westerly and southerly, a very extensive bank of coral
projects, rendering the navigation of this channel dan-
gerous to strangers, but more particularly on its southern
side, or from a position due west from the western Santa

H2

100 PEOPLE OF SAMBOANGA. [1846.

Cruz. Here the current sets at an angle obliquely
southward, and in light winds no commander should hesi-
tate in dropping his anchor in fifteen fathoms, until the
tide changes, and by heaving in his slack cable at change
of tide, there is no fear of losing his anchor. Vessels
which unfortunately ground here have no mercy shown
them at Samboanga, as may be seen, page 706, ' Nautical
Magazine ', 1843 ; the purport of which is as follows : —
" The ' Ann ' of Greenock, with a valuable cargo, consisting
of tea, silk, and sundries, from Canton to England, under
British colours, struck on the Santa Cruz bank at 8, P.M.
on the 14th June, 1842. She was relieved by the exer-
tions of the masters of the ' Cyrus ' and ' Marshall Ben-
nett ' whalers, and brought to Samboanga. Offers were
at first made by the Spanish authorities to assist her, but
so exorbitant that they were inadmissible, and subse-
quently, entirely refused. Finally, they were deemed so
very doubtful to the security of the cargo, if landed, that it
was considered more advisable to proceed to Sourabaya,
on the eastern limit of Java, where she was convoyed by
the ' Cyrus ', making about twelve inches water per
hour ;" and then the writer of the article goes on to
contrast this treatment with the conduct of the people of
Loo-Choo towards the crew of the ' Indian Oak ' stranded
upon those islands.

The only remark which I shall offer upon this matter
is to the effect that a more upright, honourable Officer
than Colonel Eigueroa is not to be found, and he bears
that character at Manila amongst the European residents.
In these matters I fear he has no control, and that the
officially the day following, accompanied by the Civil

1846.] MILITARY DISAGREEMENTS. 101

Spanish Government is not at all maintained at Sambo-
anga owing to the conflicting interests or independent
jurisdiction which is claimed by the marine department.
I do not mean to give any opinion as to the matter of
the ' Ann ', because I did not know of it at that period ;
but as several occurrences, in reference to the ' Sama-
rang', of trifling importance viewed separately, came
under my observation, I became an involuntary witness
of these military disagreements, which, for the credit of
their Mag, should have been concealed from me. Of this
feeling I had some knowledge before quitting Manila,
but it will scarcely be credited by any of the superior
authorities who may chance to scan these pages, that
neither the Captain of the Port, nor any naval person
whatever, visited the ' Samarang ' on anchoring in their
own roadstead. I had always been under the impression
that the Spanish Colonian laws, and particularly at such
a settlement as Samboanga, forbad communication with
the shore from any foreign vessel before " the visit ;"
but the general courtesy of the Spanish nation warranted
the expectation of the customary civility towards a ship
of war belonging to a nation in amity with Spain.

It was not my business to dictate what their law
should be, and as it was possible that the Naval Com-
mandant of Gun Boats might be absent with his flotilla,
1 lost no time in paying proper respect to the Military
Governor, by sending an Officer to wait upon him and
ascertain whether he was present. Upon the return of
this Officer, with a very warm invitation and offer of
apartments, I waited upon him. He returned the visit

102 CASE OF THE ' ANN.' [1846.

Magistrate and suite, but no Naval Officer performed
such a courtesy during our stay. This conduct appeared
the more unaccountable as it was well known that on
this occasion I was the bearer of a special note from the
Governor General, the friend of the present, as well as
late Brigadier of Marine, of the Captain of the frigate,
and of Captain Villavicentio, formerly the Commandant
of the flotilla here. It may appear that I am overrating
the importance to be attached to these party differences,
but my present object is to point out the possibility of
some such feeling being either the direct or latent cause
of the treatment complained of by the ' Ann ', and it is
highly probable that it resulted from conflicting opinions
as to jurisdiction, whether it was within the province of
the Governor or Naval Commandant.

It may be assumed that in this penal settlement the
Spanish Government does not countenance the visits of
strange vessels. Grant it in the case of casual visitors,
but the laws of humanity and custom of the civilized
world extends assistance to vessels of every denomination
in distress, and no excuse can be accepted for its denial
to the ' Ann ', particularly if, as stated, they originally
consented to it, and exhibited the means they had of
meeting every exigence, if only the money was forth-
coming. As to the refusal of men to navigate the vessel
to Java, the writer of the article in the Nautical Maga-
zine, forgets his admission that he was in a penal settle-
ment. No doubt much may be disputed on this matter, but
I must candidly say that from Colonel Figueroa I received
the most marked courtesy, and special exertion on his
part to carry out every wish connected with my duties,

1846.] VILLAGE OF BUM ALON. 103

and as to my private convenience, I found him truly a
friend.

On our former visit to this place we had made a
shooting excursion into the interior from Calderas until
we reached a collection of huts situated upon the banks
of a stream. This was termed the village of Dumalon ;
but the river having forced a new and more direct channel
seaward, and the interior position having been found
unhealthy, a new stockaded village, under the same name,
presented itself at the new embouchure, on the coast-line,
a little to the southward of our favourite watering posi-
tion. The stockading, look-out houses, perched on tall
spars about fifty feet above the earth, and other war-like
defences, showed that they were not disposed to trust too
implicitly to the friendly alliance existing between their
neighbours of Mindanao, or Illana.

The population of Samboanga and its vicinity is com-
posed of the families of the military forming the garrison ;
of the Gun-boat flotilla ; and probably of those whose
term of durance having expired, and having contracted
ties with the residents, prefer remaining under steady
military employ, to return to Manila, where their means
of livelihood might be more precarious. To this cause
we may probably assign the prevalence of a fairer and
better looking race of females than are generally observed
in such small societies, being the progeny of those per-
mitted to accompany individuals with sufficient means to
support them independent of labour. Some few instances
are related of a peculiar heroism amongst some of these
characters, which shows that they are, in cases of danger,
less effeminate and vigorous in resources than their male

104 NATURAL HISTORY EXCURSION. [1846.

companions, at the same time that their enemies, the
Illations, are not wanting, almost to the extent of Spanish
courtesy, towards the fair sex when found in a defence-
less state. During our stay here, Mr. Adams was fur-
nished with a very intelligent guide belonging to the
establishment, and penetrated some distance into the
interior for the purpose of collecting objects of Natural
History, but his conductor appeared to be very sensitive
upon the subject of " Los Indios " or mountain Illations,
whom he stated to be constantly in ambush, on the look
out for the cattle or persons of the Spaniards. This
same person, however, accompanied me to an eminence
much further inland, commanding a most extensive view
of all the adjacent islands, but as we were well armed he
exhibited a great show of valour, rather wishing for
their appearance, probably with a view to retaliation.
Our collection was not, much enriched from these
excursions ; the streams, however, afforded great variety
of fresh-water shells, and some peculiar fish ; a few land
shells were also brought in by those sent to seek for them
on the mountains. The sea did not afford anything new,
although the locality warranted great expectations; as
boats in penal settlements are dangerous means for
escape, they are, of course, prohibited, and to the absence
of the pursuit of fishing, we may attribute the scarcity of
shells, except of the common Cowries, which abound on
all tropical shores.

Having expressed some anxiety about procuring a spar
fit to replace the foremast of the ' Royalist ', the Governor
advised my visiting the new Port of Pasanhan on the
northern side of Basilan, in sight from the hills above

1846.] ISLAND OF MALAVI. 105

Samboanga; and in order still further to forward my
object, he most kindly wrote a note to the Commandant,
requesting his co-operation, and expressing a wish that
the Officer commanding the Gun-boat would afford his
aid by lending one of his crew to guide our carpenters to
the most convenient spot, as well as to point out the
names and qualities of the different woods adapted for
spars. On the 2nd we took leave of the worthy Go-
vernor and his civil establishment, and steered a course
to skirt the extremity of the shoals extending westerly
from the Santa Cruz islands. The day was beautiful,
and with a light breeze we passed in depths varying from
five to fifteen fathoms over the coral outlines, seeing the
bottom too distinctly for enjoyment had we not been
already certain, by previous investigation, that no actual
danger existed.

The result of our Observations at Samboanga on these
two visits, places the western extremity of the town (at
the watering-place) in Lat. 6° 54' 55" N. Long.
122° 2' 12" E. Var. 1° 19' 41" E Dip. 1° 20'.
As the Term Day for this month occurred during our
visit, the Magnetic Observations were conducted at the
same spot ; but the Vigia, or high look-out-house, which
formerly marked the observing position, has been removed.

106

CHAPTER XIII.
ISLANDS OF THE MINDORO AND SOOLOO SEAS.

Island of Malavi — Mode of felling trees — Visit to the Comandante —
Fort of Pasanhan — Wood of Malavi — Course directed across the
Mindoro and Sooloo Seas — Island of Kulassien — Cagayan Sooloo
— Chase after two piratical-looking prahus — -Dangerous navigation
— Banguey — Geological structure — Balambangan — Harbours and
general resources — Tanjong Agal-Agal — Useful properties of its
sea-weed — Dalrymple's account of Maludu and Kini Balu — The
Black Peninsular — Encampment of Illanon pirates — Ant Islands
— Description of the Sumpitan and arrows — Tampassook river —
Abai and Ambong — Visit from the Sultan of Tampassook — Re-
turn of the ' Royalist ' with supplies — Height of Kini Balu —
Rivers Sulaman and Kawalan — Friendly disposition of the natives
Gaya Group — The rivers Kabatuan and Inanam — Interview with
the natives — The Kinyanis river — Alarm the natives — Idaan
Tribes — Membakut, Kuala-lama and Kuala-panco rivers — Bird
Island.

ON the morning of the 3rd we found ourselves off the
western end of the Island of Malavi, which forms, by the
canal within it, the Port of Pansafihan, a new settlement
by the Spaniards on Basilan, resulting from the late at-
tempt of the French to obtain possession of Malozo on
the western side of this island, which the Spaniards
assert to be within their territory. As no signs of

1846.] MODE OF FELLING TREES. 107

national colours were noticed, and no boats came off to
instruct us, we dropped our anchor in a very convenient
position at the western entrance, and erected our Obser-
vatory at the nearest end of the island of Malavi. Although
armed with the permission of all the superior authorities
to pursue our operations, still courtesy required that
the Comandante should be visited and the necessary
arrangements made with him. Leaving affairs, therefore,
in train for an active survey of the port, I repaired to the
Fort to seek the Comandante. At the landing-place I
found two gun-boats moored, but no officers visible;
passing them, I landed and moved on towards the summit
of a conical rise under process of clearing, experiencing
great difficulty in threading my course through fallen
trees, which were in some instances separated by fire, but
under which I had at times to stoop. The labour of felling
these huge trees by the axe would have proved rather
a serious task, the natives therefore collected the smallest,
and by forming stacks of these, split into small pieces,
round the bases of the largest, effected their object by
undermining them by fire. The crash of the trees on
falling was startling, and the report was heard for many
miles. Their labour did not, however, cease here, for
fresh fires had to be continued to exterminate these ob-
stacles which continued to form a smoking pile, and
instead of conveying to the ordinary traveller the idea of
visiting a new and rising possession, tended rather to
impress upon him the idea of recent disaster.

Having at length waded through these highly perfumed
difficulties, I reached the entrance to a strongly stockaded
fort, within the lines of which the more substantial walls

108 OFFICIAL DIFFERENCES. [1846

of stone and mortar were in the course of erection. At
present, all was hut work, and in a very miserable kind
of barn I was told that I might Jind the Comandante.
This was all the military reception. After some delay and
knocking, a subaltern presented himself, who was exces-
sively civil, apologized for want of ceremony, and informed
me that the Comandante was dangerously ill with fever ;
and from my observation of himself and another, emerging
from a deal inclosure near us, added to the steam and
oppressive feeling resulting from the effluvia of the
surrounding burning ruins of the monarchs of the forest,
I thought it highly probable that my present friends
might soon be added to the hospital list.

Having produced the letter from Colonel Figueroa,
and the Governor General, enjoining attention and as-
sistance, the Commanding Officer instantly assured me
of every assistance within his command, and in pursu-
ance of the wish expressed in the Colonel's letter, de-
spatched a soldier requesting the presence of the Officer
of the Gun-boat. Upon his arrival he was informed of
the message from the Governor, indeed, read the letter.
The question of military jurisdiction was immediately
raised, with the distinct assertion that he could not obey
the order. The military Officer endeavoured to assure
him that it was merely the wish expressed by Colonel
Figueroa, but in vain. In order to be quickly relieved from
the very unpleasant predicament in which I found myself
placed by these unpleasant jarrings, and which began to
wax very warm between the parties, I felt it my duty to
stop further discussion by informing the naval man, " that
I entirely declined any assistance from his department,

1846.] INDEPENDENCE OF THE OFFICER. 109

or any further communication upon the subject, which I
should refer to superior authority. I begged, however,
to remind him, that as Great Britain invariably extended
her courtesy to all foreign Flags visiting her ports, I
thought that her ships of war were at least entitled to
the ordinary courtesy of civilized nations, especially from
one supposed to be in amity. Independent of this, I
considered that the letter of the Governor General war-
ranted me in asking for any assistance I might require
in any part within his jurisdiction, without reference to
the very simple request of the Governor of Samboanga."

The Officer attempted to explain his independent posi-
tion, and tendered assistance on his own part, or to
further my wishes in any way, but as these explanations
involved discussions, which it was my duty to avoid, I
resolutely declined further intercourse, obtaining from
the military all the assistance which I required. As the
state of the Comandante appeared to be so serious, as
to require immediate assistance, I lost no time in return-
ing to the ship and forwarding one of our medical staff.

The Fort of Pasanhan is situated about forty feet above
the sea level, and by clearing away the trees intervening,
commands the two entrances on the east and west of the
Island of Malavi. The interior accommodation within
the fort is intended to provide for a garrison of sixty, and
as the natives continue to be troublesome, cutting off any
who may stray beyond the picquets, it is probable that
the houses exterior to the fort will not begin to accumu-
late until great progress has been made in clearing the
thick woods which still hang upon its rear. Fresh water
is scarce, but this important treasure was discovered not

110 PASANHAN. [1846.

very distant, by one of the Officers of the garrison during
our sojourn, and so delighted him that he must needs force
me into the compliment of drinking a tumbler with him, as
if it had been first-rate wine. The crown of the hill, and to
musket shot in the rear, as well as down to the canal at the
sea, easterly, is already felled, burning, and in process of
clearing from rock, which is readily split by water when
heated by the burning trees, and is in great demand for
the construction of the fort. Near the water the ground
is still very swampy, but this will shortly be filled in, and
in all probability form the jetties to the new town, which,
if judiciously managed, may be rendered one of the most
valuable ports in these seas. For a long period Basilan
has supplied Mindanao with fruit, vegetables, cattle,
poultry, &c., and if the native population, which are Ma-
homedan, are once brought to friendly terms, Pasanhan
must become the principal resort of the whalers frequent-
ing these seas; but it should be freed from the dis-
abilities under which penal settlements labour, and be
under a separate Government, favouring commerce, and
totally disconnected with Samboanga. The western
harbour is open to the sea, having a long bay terminated
by the Island of Lapinigan, at a distance of three miles
westerly, but still affords excellent anchorage over a
tough clay bottom, with shelter from prevailing winds.
A small island, nearly mid-channel, protects the inner
anchorage, which is completely land-locked, and between
this island and Malavi is a deep pool with space to shelter
a ship of the Line in depths from five to fifteen fathoms,
most admirably adapted for careening or repairs. From
the space fronting the town, easterly, the channel affords

1846.] HARD WOOD OF MALAVI. Ill

a long range for shelter, taking the precaution to avoid
two coral patches, which are nearly mid-channel. There
are, therefore, two passages of entrance or exit, but that
easterly can only be used for towing, or by steamers, as
it is too narrow to work in. As the Fort of Pasanhan is
commanded by heights inland, and the general features
of the neighbouring land exhibit strong water courses,
there cannot be the slightest doubt but some of the moun-
tain streams will soon be conducted to the town, and
complete the only important resource now looked for.

The Island of Malavi furnishes the hard wood of that
name, of a yellowish tint, adapted for gun carriages ; Poon
for planks or spars, and the Polo-Maria, said to be parti-
cularly suitable for lower masts. For this use I should not
select it where I could obtain sound fir, or even Poon, being
equally dense as oak. Many other woods abound, and in
Basilan may be obtained to any dimensions within the
bounds of reason, as I myself observed a noble denizen
of the expiring forest, exceeding nine feet in diameter at
the base, and above one hundred and fifty feet in length,
of available timber.

Our boats were despatched under the command of
Lieut. Roberton in search of fresh water, which he found
in the first large bay west of the settlement, but the tide
falling, prevented his egress with the full casks. Having
completed operations here, we quitted on the 6th, pass-
ing the Spanish frigate c Ysabel ', and gun-boats returning
from their expedition to Sooloo. Off the western point
of the bay we noticed a large prahu making towards us,
which induced me to wait. It contained several large
and fat bullocks, but their prices were so exorbitant that

112 SAIL FOR BANQUET. [1S46.

I declined to have any dealings. The owners had pro-
bably calculated upou a higher price meeting us under
canvas, and being Malays, were too proud to lower their
first demand.

The position of the entrance point on the western ex-
tremity of Malavi is situated in Lat. 6° 42' 22" N.
Long. 121° 52' 23" E. No currents of force, similar to
those of the Straits off the Santa Cruz islands, are en-
countered near Pasanhan or Malavi, although a strong
tide sets through the narrow eastern channel. Vessels,
therefore, are not subject to similar inconveniences on
approaching or quitting this port.

Our course was now directed to cross the Sooloo and
Mindoro seas for Banguey, situated off the northern ex-
treme of Borneo, but touching at such islands as calms
or variables might render it advisable. The first object
encountered in our way happened to be the Island of Ku-
lassien, which we reached on the evening of the 7th, and
landed to determine its position by the stars. Nothing
worthy of interest occurred, and having fixed its south-
western extremity to be in Lat. 6° 25' 4" N. Long.
120° 34' 52" E. Dip. —0° 42', we resumed our voyage.
The reefs off this island appeared to stretch far to the
southwest, and are not so apparent to the eye as such
dangers usually are. A village, with numerous small
prahus, probably devoted to the Pearl and Beche-de-mer
fishery, was noticed on the island west of it.

On the 9th we sighted Cagayan Sooloo, a detached
island, apparently owned by none of the present reign-
ing powers, but classed among the dependencies, or So-
vereignty, of Sooloo. The principal object of our visit

1846.] CAGAYAN SOOLOO. 113

being merely to determine its geographical position, no
attempt was made at any survey beyond the immediate
anchorage. Our observatory was pitched upon a small
rocky islet, perched upon a reef at the entrance of a most
romantic circular basin, and although perfectly barred by
a reef crossing its entrance, was bottomless, with fifty
fathoms immediately within, and having but fifteen
fathoms at a boat's length from any part of its sides,
above which the cliffs rose abruptly to several hundred
feet. It appeared, indeed, as a complete crater, and
though densely covered on its sides with the most luxu-
riant vegetation, composed chiefly of parasitic plants, the
absence of a ripple or breeze, the deep blue mirror re-
flecting and adding to the apparent cylinder, together
with the silence and gloom which prevailed, was almost
oppressive ; a chasm in the rock showed that one of a
similar character was situated almost in conjunction,
easterly, but we noticed, on passing in the ship, that it
was similarly barred by reefs. To the westward, habi-
tations were noticed, but as no disposition was exhibited
on the part of the inhabitants to visit us, and our time
was fully occupied in more important pursuits, they were
allowed to remain undisturbed until we were at liberty.
The motions of several prahus, noticed off two small is-
lands, situated about three miles to the southward, being
suspicious, began to excite our attention about 8 P.M., nearly
at the moment, having completed Observations, 1 had de-
determined on visiting the houses above-noticed ; but our
plans were now changed, and, under the full belief that the
prahus were piratical, the signal was made for a general
chase, our boats being at that period about five miles to the

VOL. II. I

114 CHASE AFTER PIRATES. [1846.

westward, fully armed, (for measuring base by sound) and
in a condition to prevent their escape. The ' Samarang ',
by signal, was under weigh, and all on board eager for
the fray before 1 reached her ; and a very animated chase
occupied us until near sunset, when the ship, having
brought two prahus under her guns, and between her
and the southern island, a shot beyond them intimated
the futility of any further attempt at escape, as well as
the propriety of awaiting search, which the two cutters,
rounding the western side of the island nearly at the
same moment, carried into effect. They contained a
Malay Chief, and a larger supply of arms, people, &c.,
than any peaceable persons could be supposed to require ;
as to the fact of their following piratical courses I had
not the remotest doubt, but as they did not contain cap-
tured Christians, nor could any piratical fact be alleged
against them, they were suffered to pursue their course,
which appeared to lead them to the main island of Ca-
gayan Sooloo ; the ' Samarang ' continuing hers towards
Banguey. The Islands of Cagayan, as far as noticed
by us, comprise one large, very high, well-clothed with
trees, and apparently of volcanic origin, with two smaller
islands, situated about five miles, nearly south of the
centre of the main one. Reefs appear to extend some
distance, belting the greater island, but the smaller appear
to be " steep to ", and are moderately elevated hillocks
well clothed with timber.

The position of our Observing islet, nearly upon the
meridian of the centre of the great island, was determined
to be inLat. 6° 58' 5" N. Long. 118° 24' 11" E.
Var. 0° 12' 29" E. Dip. — 0° 55' 50" Anchorage

1846.] ISLAND OF BANGUEY. 115

was obtained for the ' Samarang ' in sixteen fathoms,
about one mile south of our Observing station, but from
our elevated position on the rocky islet, the reefs, off
which our cutters were anchored, appeared to extend fully
that distance from the western shore, and exhibited several
rocks, dry at low water.

At daylight on the llth of March, we sighted the lofty
peak of the Island of Banguey, and trusting to the Charts,
shaped our course to enter the channel by the southern
side of the Mangsi Islands ; shoal water was reported seen
from the mast head, but before the requisite information
to enable us to clear it was given, the rumbling of broken
coral under our keel informed us that we had been tres-
passing, but as it did not impede our motion, we were
soon on the alert to escape similar patches. This, how-
ever, appeared no easy task, as on tacking and standing
to the eastward, similar dangers appeared to intimate that
we were entrapped. As the channel within appeared to
be sufficiently wide for working, we made the best of our
dilemma, and by dint of close watching from the mast
head and bowsprit end, gained a fair channel about
4, P.M., not, however, without occasional nervous mo-
ments, and going through patches barely kissing our
keel, but as these are affairs of frequent occurrence to
vessels engaged in exploring new channels, they did not
excite us beyond the first discovery of our being en-
trapped. The S.W. angle of Balambangan had been the
rendezvous appointed for the 'Royalist', and to that
point our course was now directed.

The shores of Banguey, with its imposing and very
picturesque peak, engaged our attention more than the

i 2

116 CANTON. [1846

monotonous appearance of our territory of Balambangan,
upon which, indeed, one or two hillocks appeared to
assert that it was not entirely a Mangrove swamp. As
we passed the bar, connecting the small islet off Balam-
bangan with Banguey, we had as little as four fathoms,
but as this was nearly the same as given by Dalrymple's
chart, it was unnoticed beyond hauling a little more
towards Balambangan. The sun had failed, and as we
neared the spot on which we intended to anchor, I felt,
perhaps, more nervous than I otherwise should, from cir-
cumstances arising from a Court Martial on the Master of
the ' Vestal ', for unfortunately touching one of its shoals,
and this investigation having thrown doubts upon the
accuracy of the charts, it behoved us to be more cautious.
The good fortune, usually attending us, led us in the dark
into the very position which I should have selected by
bright day, although not more than sixty yards from the
rocks when daylight discovered them to us.

In order to establish a good look-out position from
which the ' Royalist ' might be seen, as well as a conspi-
cuous feature for our principal station and astronomical
position, the summit of one of the southern peninsulas
was cleared of trees and levelled for the tent; this
enabled us to command the entire sea view westerly, as
well as the whole channel between Balambangan and
Banguey. The customary duties of the survey engaged
our attention generally. The two great bays of Balam-
bangan had been examined partly by Dalrymple, but the
coast of Banguey was completely a terra incognita, and
in the event of resuming our claims on the Island of
Balambangan, it would become important that we should

1846.] WESTERN SIDE OF BANGUEY. 117

ascertain how far Banguey, in case of need, could assist
in supplies, more especially of water, for our shipping.
Horsburgh states that the boats of some vessel visited
a river on the western side of Banguey and obtained
fresh water. Two apertures, supposed to be rivers,
were examined by us, but both were salt, apparently
estuaries, possibly sending forth ] fresh water in wet
seasons, but this year being considered remarkable for
the general failure of the rivers on the north coast of
Borneo, may account for our want of success. But, in-
dependent of the question as to fresh or salt, neither of
these estuaries could be conveniently made use of, owing
to the shoals which prevent any large boats from ap-
proaching, except at the period of high water. On our
first arrival, the natives were seen quitting the western
shore of the island in five prahus, and rounding its
southern extreme, shaping their course easterly, subse-
quently, when working along that coast, I noticed eight
or ten small prahus hauled up amongst the trees, two, in
particular, very neatly painted, but no inhabitants were
noticed either on the beaches, hills, in canoes, nor any
huts, during the entire period of our detention in this
neighbourhood. The soil of the island appears to be
good, and the trees and shrubs of luxuriant growth ; the
rocks noticed upon the coast-line were slate ; conglome-
rate, the pebbles being quartz or jasper ; and jasper ;
one very tall pyramidal rock, rising to the height of eighty
feet, entirely of contorted laminae of red and yellow
jasper ; the soil, overlying the slaty portions, was generally
of a yellowish steatitic clay, very friable, and evidently
not adapted to promote vegetation. The entire coast-

118 DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. [1846.

line of the island, from its northern point, by the coast, to
the southern extreme, is dangerous of approach, excepting
the extreme western tongue, where it is nearest to Ba-
lambangan, and which I at first suspected to run out in
a coral ledge forming the bar of the channel. This is
not the case, as it is composed entirely of five slaty peb-
bles with gravelly bottom, rather " steep to," and carries
five fathoms along its curvature ; the coral commencing
again about one mile south of it, and continuing its
sweep from the mouth of the first apparent river or
opening, encircles all the islands southerly, the water
shoaling suddenly from eighteen to three fathoms. The
western side, therefore, of this island does not appear to
offer any resources to Balambangan, nor can any be
hoped for from the north-western face. As far as we
examined southerly, and easterly, the coast-line did not
present any inviting bays or anchorages, but the creeks
or estuaries on the S.E. face appeared, from the double
range of hills, to run very deep into the interior, and as
it was in this direction that the five prahus, seen upon
our arrival, appeared to be going, it is probable that their
villages lie in that direction.

Balambangan offers two excellent harbours, but both
require some skill and previous knowledge of the ground
to enter, and having effected this, security from strong
winds, wood and water, will be the only objects to be
attained. All this may be had without incurring the
risk of the intricate navigation, by anchoring outside ; and
as strong breezes do not prevail, the outer anchorages are
sufficiently safe. Of the two, the northern harbour is less
difficult, and with a morning sun all the coral patches

1846.] CHOICE OF ANCHORAGE. 119

may easily be seen and avoided. The best anchorage is
northerly of where the water flows into the bay ; it is
about five hundred yards within the southern horn, on
the east of the position where the English fort stood, the
site of which may be readily found by the bricks strewed
about the ground, and the cleared and solid ground
which is not to be found upon any other part of the
island. A merchant vessel may obtain a supply, but the
quantity required for the ' Samarang ' very soon drained
it ; I think about fifteen tons. This, therefore, cannot
deserve the appellation of a watering-place. As the water
regained its level during the night, it is probable that it
is derived from the rising ground behind the fort, and
would prove sufficient for the consumption of its former
garrison, which appears to have been about eighty persons.
The narrative, extracted from the Spanish, and which
appears in another part of this work, states that the party
which surprised this position landed at the back of the
island. This is improbable, almost impossible ; but, as the
Fort was situated on a peninsula, it is more likely that
they landed on the southern side, and attacked the post
from the hill in its rear, which, by the common rules of
defence, should have been cleared and fortified, and would
thus have prevented any chance of surprise.

Although the present season was deemed dry to an
extraordinary degree, throughout the northern districts
of Borneo, still the northern, and, apparently, swampy
part of Balambangan, exterior to this bay, was found to
contain large pools of deeply-tinted fresh water, and, in
several instances, runs of sufficient strength to cut small
channels through the sand into the sea. All the soil of

120 INTERIOR HARBOUR. [1846.

this particular region appeared to be of a peaty nature,
and the trees, generally, of good growth, being Poon,
Casuarina, &c., but with little mixture of Mangrove.
The southern harbour, although almost land-locked, or
completely sheltered by overlapping reefs, has nothing to
recommend it. The rocks, which are coralline limestone,
succeeded southerly by a species of white marble and
sandstone, and finally, by dark basalt on the off lying
islets, are either fretted by sea, or atmosphere, into such
sharp edges or holes, and in other spots in loose disin-
tegrated piles, apparently from some great convulsion of
nature, that standing room can hardly be found. This,
therefore, forbids any use of the interior harbour beyond
the simple shelter for refit ; but a small space on the
south side of the exterior bay, appears to have been
cleared sufficiently large for the erection of a house, and
at this spot a brisk rivulet of excellent water discharges
itself into the sea. Unfortunately, however, the coral
reefs at this spot prevent boats approaching nearer than
fifty yards, except at high-water or half tide ; and as this
coral ledge is the base of a long coral tongue, extending
northerly, and forming the southern overlapping tongue
of this harbour, the adjoining land, exterior to the bay,
and which is good soil, is still further unavailable for
building. Viewing Balambangan, therefore, as a position
for a settlement, it does not appear to offer one single
inducement. The population of Banguey is stated by
the people on the Borneo coast to be composed entirely
of the Bajows or Sea Gipsies, and Idaan, which are
periodically visited by the Malay authorities of Maludu
Bay, for the purpose of receiving their tribute of Bird's

1846.] BALAMBANGAN. 121

nest, Tripang (Beche-de-Mer), Pearl, and Pearl Shells.
The natives of Banguey have no commerce ; the only
chance of trade would be with Maludu Bay, and this is
already so completely forestalled, either by the Bugis
traders from Celebes, or the Arab SerifFs from Borneo
Proper, that there is not the slightest probability of their
bringing the produce of their villages in the interior, to
seek a British market at Balambangan.

This is not a mere speculative opinion. I have looked
very closely into the general habits and transactions of
the accessible tribes, and their sources of trade in Borneo,
Sooloo, and Singapore, and I have it from personal obser-
vation, as well as the best European authority, that no
commerce can be carried on in these regions without the
intervention of the Arab or Malay, unless the European
agent visits or resides, and personally transacts the
business, on the spot. I have before alluded to Mr.
Wyndham, resident at Sooloo ; from many conversations
with that gentleman, who is an individual coming strictly
within my meaning, I have reason to know that no pro-
fitable trade can be pursued where the intervention of a
Malay occurs. I was thoroughly acquainted with the
value of the goods lent by him on credit, as well as the
returns for them, and in the offers made to me by the
Sultan of Gunung Taboor, begging me to induce English
merchants " to reside at Gunung Taboor, and trade," I
ascertained, that he was a loser of nearly three hundred
per cent, by trusting to his agent, Si Dawut. I had oc-
casion, also, to deal with the Bugis traders, who endea-
voured to monopolize the whole trade of Borneo ; and I
found, by reference to their transactions with the Sultan

122 TRADING ADVANTAGES. [1846.

of Balungan, as well as at Gunung Taboor, that their
profits were enormous, charging for the quantity of rice,
valued at about one dollar at Sooloo, about forty dollars
here. With regard to handkerchiefs, valued at two
dollars, Sooloo, we could not make a comparison, as
those from Celebes passed through Dutch channels ; but
the intrinsic value at which the Sultan reckoned them
was ten dollars each, being five hundred per cent, on the
Manila prices, and if exchanged for Bird's nests, some-
times reaching the value of twenty.

These remarks are intended to apply chiefly to the
supposed sources of trade arising from Maludu Bay with
Balambangan. Of the value of this trade I am informed
that nothing but Camphor-Barns, Seed-Pearls, Shells,
Tripang, and a small quantity of Tortoise Shell, may be
expected from this source ; and this not offering sufficient
profit to an Arab merchant to repeat the venture at the
risk of his property, as well as life. We may safely in-
quire then, would an English trader, differing so totally in
religion, enter these haunts of what are designated, at the
present day, " pirate dens ", to seek for goods where one
of their own tribe is scarcely safe ? It is only necessary
to turn our attention to the river Kotai. Have the Dutch,
or English, after repeated attempts for a series of years,
succeeded in opening trade, by the intervention of Euro-
peans, with the Ruling Powers in that river? It is
monopolized by the Bugis traders of Celebes, and so
great is their influence there, that it is supposed to be
their object to exclude even their own allies, the Dutch.
This feeling prevails throughout Borneo, but at Gunung
Taboor, as well as at Balungan, the Sultans have been

1846.] ISLAND OF TAMBISAN. 123

taught to what extent they suffer, by allowing them-
selves to be imposed upon by these wandering merchants.
They have now ascertained that the goods previously
imported are very far inferior in quality to those of British
manufacture, and that the prices charged by the Bugis
traders are about eight hundred per cent, above a fair
return, or considerably greater than if they opened a
direct trade with Singapore in their own vessels, an event
which will certainly follow the suppression of piracy on
the shores of Borneo.

These observations apply particularly to the rivers in
the Curan district, where the produce of the native tribes
of the interior would arrive at a free market, uncontrolled
by the customary tyranny of the Malay Rulers. But
there is another trading position on the N.E. angle of
Borneo, where the merchant is saved the trouble, as well
as risk, of seeking an inland market. This is within the
Island of Tambisan, or, in the harbour formed by the
canal which separates it from Unsang. It is supposed
that this is the head quarters, or general rendezvous, of
the pirates of the neighbouring seas, and that all the
lawless traders assemble here to exchange property.
Here the Bugis, as well as the contraband Singapore
traders, furnish the necessary supplies, of arms and am-
munition, to those vessels which dare not enter a port
under European jurisdiction. The property in the
market, although in many cases drawn from the resources
of that part of Borneo, may be considered as resulting
either from piracy or oppressive taxes levied upon the
people of these islands; amongst the most prominent
objects at these sales, I am informed that slaves, captured

124 SLAVE MARKETS. [1846-

by the Illations on the coasts of the Bisayas, are to be
found, and from this point westerly, as well as southerly,
they are distributed along the coast. There is also
another port, Tooncoo, on the southern side of Unsang,
where a considerable slave market is held, but this is
considered so completely a pirate den, that no traders
venture there.

When piracy ceases upon these coasts, and Labuan
offers similar advantages for trading, as Singapore, Tam-
bisan may become an important intermediate position, as
the southern rivers would find there a mart for their
goods without the risk and tediousness of the Singapore
voyage.

The establishment of a British post or colony on any
part of the northern shores of Borneo, will not, I suspect,
induce any of the native Authorities to send their pro-
duce thither for sale. At Maludu Bay, in particular,
the destruction of Seriff Housman has deprived the
people of that region, of the only energetic ruler who
could have afforded protection to European traders. The
natural feeling of enmity towards the nation which has
punished them so severely, is likely to continue for some
time, and Bugis and Malay influence will, for a long
period, prevent our countrymen from any intercourse
with the interior of this region. With regard to Balabac,
and the islands northward, towards Manila, they are but
thinly inhabited, by a similar race to those of Banguey,
and are so averse to communication with foreigners, that
they could only be dealt with through the objectionable
intervention of Malay or Bugis agents.

The produce of this trade would be chiefly confined to

1846.] BLACHONG. 125

the fishery, including Baat, or Beche de Mer, Pearl
Oyster Shells, Pearls, Agal A gal, and possibly the
Uachong, which is composed of the minute fry of fish
and shrimps, immersed in a saline pickle until symptoms
of putrescense appear, when they are pounded together
with salt, into a paste something similar to Anchovy.
This is much esteemed by the Malays ; when made more
to the European palate, omitting the semi-putrescent
stage, as practised at Malacca, it becomes a very pala-
table, and a favourite article at the breakfast table, eaten
either with bread, or as sauce with fish.

On the 19th of March, the ' Royalist' rejoined from
Singapore, bringing provisions, letters, &c. She had
called in at Sarawak, but as Mr. Brooke was in expecta-
tion of a visit from the ' Iris ', and his neighbours were
in rather a suspicious state, he was unable to join us.
Our survey of the Balambangan neighbourhood being
complete, preparations were made for carrying on the
examination of the northern coast of Borneo. The prin-
cipal station on the peninsular tongue off the southern
harbour of Balambangan, was determined to be in Lat.
7° 12' 51" N. Long. 116° 49' 8" E. Var. 0° 37' 20" E.
Dip. __i° 16'.

As the shores of Borneo, between Balambangan and
our new territory of Labuan, have not hitherto been
closely examined or described, and it is highly probable
that naval operations, as well as mercantile speculations,
will carry some of our countrymen to the mouths of some
of the principal rivers, contained between these limits, I
trust that the minuteness which I shall now feel obliged
to pursue may not prove monotonous.

126 ISLAND OF KALAMPUNIAN. [1846.

Our first position was taken up on the Island of Kalam-
punian, situated immediately off Tanjong Sampanmangio,
the eastern horn of the great bay of Maludu Bay, and
situated in Lat. 7° 4' 17" N. Long. 116° 40' 30" E.
Although this island appears to be connected with the
main land of Borneo, there is a fair and safe channel
between it, having eight and nine fathoms, and suffi-
ciently bold, on either side, for a vessel to pass, without
risk by daylight, if, in chase, scant wind or any important
service should render it expedient. After passing to the
eastward, the ground, southerly, for ten miles, is unsafe
at two miles from the shore, by reason of many treacherous
patches rising suddenly from ten fathoms, and having as
little as two fathoms over them. As the great bay of
Maludu was left for future examination, our researches
did not carry us further into these intracacies. The
coast from Tanjong Sampanmangio, southerly, runs into
deep sandy bays, but unsafe for anchorage. Immediately
within the western cape fresh water will be found at the
eastern extremity of the first long sandy bay. Here we
noticed numerous foot marks of the Water Buffalo, and
during our examination for the spring, several fine deer,
apparently of the Fallow species, invited our notice, but
although half-a-dozen muskets were discharged at them,
within a distance of thirty yards, none fell to our share.
Pigs also were numerous. A party landed early the fol-
lowing morning in the hopes of shooting them, but met
with no better success ; unfortunately, I had deemed the
report of then* guns sufficient to disturb the whole coast,
and, without being prepared, turned up a fine buck within
a few yards.

1846.] ZEOLITE BLUFF. 127

The first point, south-westerly, from the Cape, distant
about five miles, is a black rocky formation of basalt, and
from its enclosing nodules of Zeolite, received the name
of Zeolite Bluff. Immediately within it, easterly, a pretty
strong stream discharges itself into the sea, but at low
water leaves the sand bare for a considerable distance,
seaward.

South-westerly of Zeolite Bluff will be seen the high
rocks of Batomande, connected with Tanjong Agal Agal by
a low reef above water, but there are one or two channels
through which boats may pass. It would be possible to
carry a vessel through, but, except in cases of extremity,
highly dangerous. Our station was taken up upon the
inner rock, elevated above the sea forty feet. The outer
rock is about ten feet higher, and accessible ; its cavities
swarm with a very light-coloured Bat. Two rivers are
in sight from Batomande, easterly. The nearest enters
at a remarkable white Bluff within the coast-line, and
navigable by boats at high water ; it was not entered by
our boats, the rollers rendering all the line between this
station and Zeolite Bluff dangerous of approach. The
second river is easterly, and enters at the termination of
the tall Casuarinas, but is still more difficult of access.

About six miles to the S.E. of Batomande a deep
inlet occurs, into which two small streams appear to dis-
charge themselves, which will admit boats or canoes at
half-tide. This is probably one of the principal stations
of the Bajows, or Sea Gipsies, whom we noticed retreating
as we advanced. Like the Equimaux they had upon our
approach rapidly packed up their houses, leaving the
main stakes still standing, and from the remains of fish,

128 TANJONG AGAL AGAL. [1S4G.

in all stages, very little doubt could be entertained of
their piscatory pursuits.

Tanjong Agal Agal derives its name from the Sea-
weed of that name, which is collected in large quantity
upon these reefs, extending nearly two miles towards
Batomande. There are several species of this Fucus,
all soluble in water, forming a very nutritive mucilage,
which when mixed with acid, fruit, or made into
jellies (as I have noticed it at Seychelles and Mauritius)
produces a very grateful beverage for invalids. It forms
a considerable article of trade with the Chinese, particu-
larly in the northern provinces of Chin-chew, where it is
manufactured into a bright, substantial, transparent yel-
low jelly, and is sent in boxes, of about ten pounds each,
to Canton. The gum, or paste, made from it, is supposed
to possess the advantage of being unpalatable to insects
or worms. It is from this gum that their fancy lanthorns
are fabricated, by spreading it over gauze skeletons,
it thus resembles, and is very frequently mistaken for,
highly transparent horn. It is peculiarly brittle, even
more so than glass, cracking under very slight changes of
temperature.

Before taking leave of this part of Borneo the follow-
ing remarks by Dalrymple, under the head of "the
Sooloo Dominions in Borneo ", may prove worthy the
attention of those on whom may devolve the duty of pur-
suing further enquiries in this region. Speaking of
Maludu (more correctly so written) he observes : —

" Malloodoo is, in many respects, one of the most
valuable districts on Borneo. Few places equal it in the
abundance of provisions, nor is it destitute of valuable

1846.] DALRYMPLE'S ACCOUNT. 129

articles of commerce. There are many rivers of fresh
water, which fall into the Bay of Mattoodoo, which is re-
ported to have good soundings to the very bottom. On
the east side there is a large shoal, which, by report,
forms a fine harbour at Bankoka, where is a very fine
landing-place, and very fine Coolit Lawang, or Clove
Bank, is produced here.

" The opposite, or west side, is remarkable for the
Pearl Banks, which are chiefly found near Songy Basar
(Sungei besar or Great River).

" The whole district of Mattoodoo abounds with Rat-
tans, of which, ten or twenty feet long, two or three
ship's load might be had ; it also abounds in grain, and
inland, is very populous. The country to the eastward
of Keeney Balloo (Kini Balu) as far as Sandakan, is low
and plain, with a few hillocks, but no high land, except a
ridge to the southward of Bankoka, which seems to run
nearly east and west towards Paitan, leaving a gap of
of low land. At the bottom of Mattoodoo Bay, between
this ridge and that which runs from the Tampassook
mountains towards Sampanmangio ; through which, from
Banguey and Mattoodoo Bays, the high mountain of
Keeney Balloo is seen to great advantage, rising abruptly
on the west to a stupendous height, and falling down on
the east with a gentle declivity towards the low land of
Sandakan. This country cannot fail of being one of the
most fruitful in the world if well cultivated, and inhabited
by a civilized people ; were this the case, there would be
an easy land carriage, of forty or fifty miles to the Lake of
Keeney Balloo, which is represented to exceed in magni-
tude the Lake of Manila, and to have many islands in it.

VOL. II. K

130 LAKE OF KINI BALU. [1846.

It is said to be five or six fathoms deep in some places,
and to be the source of all the considerable rivers in Borneo,
about a hundred in number; the water is not limpid,
but whitish ; around its margins are innumerable towns
of Idaan. They have a Sovereign here, but in other
places only Chiefs, or Orankys (orang kaya, head, or chief
man). This tribe is exceedingly numerous, but from
their want of foreign communication, and some remark-
able customs, they are less addicted to commerce than
the value of their country would make it imagined.
They have, however, an intercourse with Benjar, and are
well enough inclined to commerce and husbandry, except
where their prejudices lead them into war."

These remarks appear to have been written about the
year 1792, and are compiled upon the information given
by Bahatol, a clever navigator, and native of Sooloo.
There are many objectionable parts ; more particularly
those relating to the range of country between Kini Balu
and Maludu Bay, which from the continuous range of
mountainous land, as viewed from the sea, must throw
great doubt upon this portion of the narrative. From
the best information which we were able to obtain,
the description of the Lake of Kini Balu, and the inha-
bitants of that region, is considered nearly fabulous.
The eastern rivers of Borneo about the Curan region,
result from lakes of their own, possibly a chain may ex-
tend towards Borneo Proper, but our intelligent friends
at Gunung Taboor asserted that they were on the near
side of a mountain five days journey from Bulungan. As
I before remarked, these extracts are especially given for
the sake of stimulating those who may have occasion to

1846.] PAPPAL. 131

examine Borneo, in proving or disproving facts so very
minutely detailed. Dalyrmple continues : —

" The Islands opposite to this part of Borneo, and, in-
deed, the coast from Sampanmangio to near Paitan, do
not properly come under the denomination of the Sooloo
dominions, as ceded to the English Company, and require
a particular discussion in another place, as the most
eligible of all situations for the capital of the Oriental
Polynesia.

"The last district of Borneo is P appal, the limits,
Sampanmangio on the north, and Keemannees River, in
5 1 North Latitude, which, by treaty, is the limit south-
ward, with the Kingdom of Borneo Proper.

" The productions of this coast, in general, are Sago,
Rice, Betel-nut, Cocoa-nut oil, Camphor, Wax, some
Pepper, and Cinnamon ; particularly the last, in some
quantity, at Keemannees. The country is very populous,
the inland particularly, which is inhabited by Idaan, as
are some places on the coast. It is extremely well
adapted for the cultivation of Pepper and Cinnamon, and
in a very few years large quantities might be had ; it is
very well watered, and has the conveniency of many
rivers navigable by boats, and some even by larger ves-
sels ; the river of Tawarran leads to the Lake of Keeney
Balloo from whence it is about ten or twelve miles dis-
tant, and is accessible for boats ; that of Tampassook is
said to come from thence also."

Thus far I have followed Dalrymple's narrative, we
now return to an actual examination of the coast-line;
not being able, however, to communicate with the Malays
or Bajows, who generally kept a march ahead of us, we

K 2

132 PIRATE RIVER. [1846.

were unable to obtain the names of any of the streams
northward of Tampassook.

Quitting the Batomande rocks, which were determined
to be in 6° 52' 43" N., our next position was a cluster of
white rocks nearly on the chord of the arc, forming with a
large black Peninsula, about ten miles from Batomande, a
very extensive, but dangerous, bay. This bay contains three
large streams, but difficult to enter except at high water.
In the centre stream, off which I had taken my position
upon a high conical white rock, I discovered an encampment
which I suspected to be Malays, probably Illanons. This
received the name of Pirate river. Their prahus were hauled
within the trees, but as their crews came without fear to the
beach, and made signs for us to land, it may be assumed
they were not Bajows, who would certainly not have ven-
tured so far from their hiding-places. The ship was
anchored off these rocks for the night, and as the prahus
had not quitted before we resumed operations in the
morning, it became prudent to watch them. Our in-
structions, which most stringently forbad molesting any
vessel not actually caught in piratical courses, prevented
our interference, and they were suffered to pass our
working boats without examination ; but the well-known
Illafion sword was noticed glittering amongst them, a
weapon not at all indispensible in the hands of the poor,
wandering, peaceable Bajows, as they term themselves.

Southerly from this Black Peninsula, the outer visible
objects are small rocky islets, distant about seven miles ;
the entire space between them is not only dangerous of
approach to shipping, but even to boats, being a continuous
range of reefs, spitting out from the land, and not seen

i!

/. frit, Sriitm, +. Sumption . Oui*tr

y. Suntpitnn 7'ufa . 5. S<u/ai Jbranf.

$. Pouontii •'ium/jilan Arn-H' . 6. RiUt 6> do
7. Rirany Sratttird .

1846.] ANT ISLANDS. 133

distinctly until near low water. The islands received the
name of Ant Islands. They are situated at the extre-
mity of the long sandy bay, extending from Abai and
Tampassook. A small river discharges itself into the sea
at the termination of the sand ; it is not, however, acces-
sible until high water, and then at times unsafe, owing to
the prevailing ground swell and rollers which set in upon
this part of the coast. A long house, similar to those
noticed at the Tampassook mouth, stands upon the sandy
tongue, which I have little doubt is an Illanon haunt.
During the period that I was engaged in examining this
part of the coast, two horsemen made their appearance
on the hill above us, and, had opportunity offered, would
probably have treated us with a Sumpit arrow, as the
weapons which they bore much resembled the Sumpitan,
or tube from which it is discharged, and which they have
the character of using freely to the eastward of Brune.

The Sumpitan is a tube formed of hard wood, generally
Casuarina equiseti/olia, the bore being of one quarter of
inch, and so truly executed that it is quite a matter of
surprise how it is effected, nor have I been able to learn.
The length varies from seven to eight feet, and one of its
peculiarities in manufacture is, that it will only remain
truly straight in one position. When this is determined,
an iron sight is fixed on the upper, and a spear on the
lower side. The arrows are generally nine inches in
length, formed of the leaflet ribs of the Nibon Palm ;
sometimes of the outer wood of the tree itself. The sharp
end is anointed with a deadly, gummy poison, in which
the sap of the Upas is the principal ingredient. It dries
hard and brittle, forming a kind of sheath, which remains

134 THE SUMPITAN. [1846.

fixed in the object which it pierces, whilst the arrow falls
away. The inner end of the arrow is inserted through a
small cone, formed of the pith of the Nibon, which is
compressible, like cork ; as the pith closes the aperture of
the tube, and does not offer the resistance which a harder
body would, it confines the air sufficiently to prevent any
escape, until the arrow has run the length of the tube,
and a sufficient impetus is thus acquired to project it with
effect to the distance of 1 50 yards. The force is such as to
enter a fir plank to the extent of an inch. The effect of
the poisoned arrow, as described by the Malays, is to
cause an instant numbness of the limb, depriving the
victim of further, power, until death ensues. From the
very great fear they entertain, even of the tube pointed at
them, there may be some foundation for this assertion,
but it is highly probable that in this, as in many other
instances, the fatal result is in great measure hastened
by fear.

The next direct line of coast is that from Ant Islands
to the outer peak of the Island of Oosookan, within
which distance great caution should be observed ; although
but two patches of rock above water are visible, I have
strong suspicions, owing to the general range of small
water, to suspect that others will hereafter be met with.
I would therefore advise persons not having special pur-
suits in the bay, not to go into less than fourteen fathoms.
Midway between these points is the river Tampassook,
which although it ran strong, and forced its fresh water
over the salt for nearly half a mile from its embouchure, in
1844, was now quiet, and salt, within. The season has
been peculiarly dry throughout the coast. As no persons

1846.] PORT OF ABAI. 135

showed themselves at the beach, and the rivers appeared
to be more troubled with rollers than on our former visit,
no time was lost here, but pushing on for Oosookan the
ship found a safe anchorage on its western side, within a
white rock, which is connected with the island. The
' Samarang ' passed through this passage in four fathoms,
trusting to a former line of soundings, but the day fol-
lowing proved that she had a very narrow escape, several
of the rocks being very near the surface. Such how-
ever, is the common fate of Surveyors, who often pass
unwarily over dangers of considerable hazard. My at-
tention was now directed to the Port and River of Abai,
where, indeed, we hoped to obtain a supply of fresh
water, as well as bullocks from the Port of Ambong, im-
mediately within us.

Of this region Dalyrmple remarks : —

" Tampassook, Abai, Loobook, and Amboong are inha-
bited by Mahometans, and form one jurisdiction. The
first a fresh-water river, with a bar of two fathoms at
high water ; it is fresh at the bar, and within, has three
and four fathoms, it is reported to come from the Lake of
Keeney Battoo, and has a gold mine near it.

" The river of the Tampassook, a few miles inland, ap-
proaches very near that of Abai, which is salt for many
miles up, leaving a long narrow Isthmus between them ;
the natives have had some thoughts of directing the
Tampassook River across this into the channel of Abai,
which is even now accessible at all times by small vessels,
and would then probably be so by large.

" The harbour and river of Abai are superior to any
between Sampanmangio and Pulo Gaya (and, indeed, is

136 BAR OF TAMPASSOOK. [1846.

the only place where vessels have shelter from westerly
winds) except Amboong, which is near to Abai, and is re-
presented to be a good harbour. The country here
abounds with grain, and considerable quantities of Pep-
per and Cinnamon would be had in a short time, were
the cultivation encouraged."

With respect to the bar of Tampassook ; that has now
less than nine feet at high water, and we have shown that
its freshness, outside, depends upon the rains. Prom our
investigation of Abai River, it is probable that the des-
cription of Dalrymple is correct ; but both harbour and
river have, since his day, been filled up by sand, and com-
paratively disappeared ; the eastern entrance affords ten
feet on the bar, and that between Oosookan and the
main, nearly dry at low water. The harbour of Abai may
therefore be considered as affording, at present, nothing
beyond boat shelter ; and although provided with guides
from Ambong,* they were unable to point out where fresh
water could be procured. The river within, which mean-
ders to the south-east, carries three, four, or five fathoms,
by keeping on the left hand ; the middle ground is very
shallow. No villages were met with on the banks, nor
any inducement for small vessels to enter, unless it be to
receive cargo from Tampassook, or by arrangement with
the Sultan of that place. If intending to embark bullocks,
or horses, purchased from the Sultan, this river would be
the most convenient spot to ship them (by boats) to the
vessel anchoring in Oosookan Bay. This may answer for
vessels well armed, but I consider this peculiar haunt of the
Illanons at present unsafe ground. I am much surprised
* Ambung is probably more correct.

J

Dn.fiiii Dvttk .

1846.] VISIT FROM THE SULTAN. 137

that Dalrymple should have overlooked the fine harbour of
Ambong affording shelter to Ships of the Line ; but as
his communications were chiefly confined to Malay in-
terests it is probable that they prevented his coming into
contact with the Idaan *, or Dusun tribes of this region.

During our visit to Abai River, the Sultan of Tampas-
sook came thither, by sea, to meet us, and accepted my
invitation to visit the ' Samarang ' on the following day.
During his visit he endeavoured to impress on me the
advantage of procuring our supplies, &c., from Tampas-
sook, but on comparing the prices, which he wished paid
in silver, we found that every article would be about 400
per cent dearer than at Ambong. He appeared very
jealous about our preference for Ambong, and when in-
formed of the lower prices at that port, I could perceive
his Malay spirit rise, and his eyes flashing revenge as he
observed to his Prime Minister "and yet these very
cattle come from our city." He was accompanied by a
slave, a native of Luzon, who had been kidnapped by the
Illations, at Ilo Ilo, and sold here for twenty-five dollars.

This man having stated his case to me, and asked for
protection, was informed that he was free, but as he pre-
ferred returning with the Sultan, and making his escape
by canoe, he was permitted to take his course, his prin-
cipal object being, as I understood, to obtain rice to
maintain him. After many friendly expressions from the

* Dalrymple in describing the Idaan, makes use of the following : —

" There is a race of people in some part of the Sooloo dominions on

Borneo, so peculiar in customs and opinions that they claim particular

attention ; these are called Idaan. It is proper, however, to observe,

that what I know of them is only from the reports of the Soolooit"

138 RELEASE A SPANIARD. [1846.

Sultan, and explanations relative to his connexion by
marriage with the Rajah Muda Hassim and Buddurud-
din, he acquainted me that they had received intelligence
from Brune that the Rajah and eleven brothers had been
put to death by the Sultan's party, because they were too
friendly towards the white foreigners. He expressed
himself very much enraged at the act, and offered to as-
semble his forces and accompany me to Brune, to punish
the Sultan. Finding that I would not act with him, he
requested permission to send his vessels under my convoy;
upon this being declined, he begged that 1 would allow
them to pass by me unmolested. As I had some suspicion
of this Sultan, and that their voyage might turn out a
piratical one, I declined answering. Shortly after daylight
our Spanish, or rather Luzon, slave stepped on our decks a
free man, and before the day had far advanced was rigged
out as one of our crew, and quite at home. The ' Royalist/
which had been despatched to Ambong, returned with
a supply of bullocks, and from one of the outer bays, near
our anchorage, we had been fortunate enough to procure
a small addition of tolerable water, although of rather a
milky hue. A short visit to the Mantanani Group de-
termined its dangers, but we found nothing interesting,
either on shore or afloat, to delay us in that neighbour-
hood. Prom our different stations along this coast, but
more particularly from Labuan, Ambong, Tampassook
and Mantanani, very minute observations had been made,
with a view to determine the height of the mountain of
Kini Balu, which frequently afforded a most beautiful
back-ground, particularly from the spot which we were
now quitting, having its pinnacles standing out in beau-

<3 _:

V

1846.] RIVER SULAMAN. 139

tiful relief between the continuous receding bluffs of
Ambong, from the depth of which bay it appeared at
dawn to rise perpendicularly, although at least twenty-
seven miles inland. The position of the highest pinnacle
was computed to be in Latitude 6° 8' 24" N., and Lon-
gitude 116° 33' E., the mean height resulting from the
three best stations giving 13,698 feet above the mean
level of the sea.

We had hardly commenced our progress from Ambong
when we discovered two suspicious prahus stealing along-
shore ; the advanced boats immediately pursued, and after
about four hours chase came up with them at the entrance
of the river Sulaman, about ten miles from Ambong;
as their fittings and cargo did not, however, exhibit signs
of piratical pursuits, they were allowed to proceed.

The river Sulaman, which is simply described by
Dalrymple as "inhabited by Idaan" appears to be a
much finer river than Tampassook, and accessible, without
danger, to vessels of twelve feet. The inhabitants
have extensive fisheries on its banks, but, either from
the recent chase, or disinclination to communicate, fled
upon our approach. It could hardly arise from fear,
as at the period of my visit, after noon, all our large
boats were absent, and the gig alone entered. From the
mouth of the Sulaman to the river Kawalan is about two
miles. Here we found an extensive village, and were
visited by some of the people, who brought us presents
of fish, and appeared disposed to be on friendly terms.
They explained that they belonged to the boats chased in
the morning, which contained nothing but cargoes of fish
and rice for Brune. The river is navigable, and not troubled

140 RIVER KAWALAN. [1846.

with rollers ; but the depth on its bar will not admit
vessels drawing over six feet. Dalrymple terms this
river " Tawarran, inhabited by Idaan ; there are many
goats in this district ; it is very populous. About sixty
Chinese, who left Borneo many years ago settled amongst
them. The river is reported to be navigable for boats to
the lake of Keeney Balloo."

The name Kawalan is scrupulously adopted from a
very intelligent Malay fisherman ; but I am inclined to
think that Tawarran, as used by Dalrymple, is more cor-
rect, and, probably, immediately connected with the
character of its waters, said to flow from the lake of
Kini Balu, tawar, signifying fresh water. Kimanis has
probably a similar character, mams, signifying sweet, that
river also furnishing fresh water. The Cape Sampan-
mangio I have also been informed (by my friend Mr.
Brooke) derives its name from its having been the ren-
dezvous of the pirates, and is the corruption of the words
Simpang, point, and meng-i-ow, which in seaman-like
phrase may be reduced to "cruizing", or pulling off
under oars. Mr. Brooke informs me, that with all his
endeavours to trace the word Idaan, as used by
Dalrymple, and adopted from him in this work, he has
been unable to find it understood by any one inhabiting
the region to which it is applied, and that it is possibly a
Sooloo term. This is not improbable. It was so referred
to as I-daw-an by my naval friend at Gunung Taboor,
but there it may apply to one of the Jive tribes which he
named, as intervening between the Sagai and Ka-dy-an
The papers containing these names, and much valuable
matter, accompanied by Malay characters, has, unfortu-

1846.] GAYA GROUP. 141

nately, been lost. Mr. Brooke seems to think it probable
that Dalrymple was misled by the term Ka-dy-an.

The coast from hence runs to Mankabung Bluff; the
river of this name being about two miles to the S.W. of
it. It can be entered by boats, or small traders ; the in-
habitants, which appear to be of a friendly disposition,
have a small village within, on the right. They offered
us dried fish and fowls, but I suspect them to be very
poor. Dalrymple remarks : —

"Mangcaboong river is inhabited by Islam, it is
populous, there is a sand bar, with two fathoms at high
water; at low, large Sooloo boats cannot enter within
three or four fathoms ; there is a salt lake about three
miles from the bar, it has two fathoms, and in some
places one fathom. The river above the lake is rapid
and full of rocks, so that it is not navigable but by
canoes; some say it comes from the lake of Keeney
Balloo ; but Dato Saraphodin thinks otherwise. This
place, and those before mentioned produce some Pepper."

We now come to the Pulos Gaya, or Gaya Group, one
of the best, and most completely land-locked harbours on
this coast. It is formed by a high bluff on the east, to
which I have given the name of Tanjong Gaya ; by the
Great Gaya Island on the west ; and by the smaller
Islands of Sapangar, Manukan, Manukan-Kichi, and a
third nameless rock, stretching across the mouth. The
main entrance lies between Sapingar and Manukan.
Within these bounds lie situated the rivers Kabatuan and
Inanam.

The Kabatuan, which may be approached to within
half a mile of its mouth, in five fathoms, is the more im-

142 PANGERAN MADAOUT. [1846.

portant, and is situated in the northern, and eastern
angle of the great bay. Upon our arrival here, several
canoes came down to visit us at one of our stations, close
to the mouth of the river. As this occurred at sunset,
and they exhibited a profusion of shields, bright mus-
kets, &c., and their crews apparently ready for the fray,
I declined their acquaintance for the night, communi-
cating only with the leading canoe, and informing the
chief that I should visit him in the morning.

On the day following the boat division entered the river,
when the spokesman, or master of the ceremonies of their
party, exhibited some alarm at our intention of ascending
the river. Suspecting this to proceed from fear of our guns
I offered to go in my gig, or even in his canoe. This was
objected to, as frightening the people. After a long delay
it was announced that the Sultan was coming, and shortly
after arrived, in state, one of the half-brothers of the Rajah
Muda Hassim, Pangeran Madaout, as he termed himself.
From him, the intelligence of the murders mentioned by
the Sultan of Tampassook, was confirmed, with the as-
sertion that the same parties sought his life at Kabatuan,
but that his party was too strong. His little son, Tajudin,
a lad about eight years old, was with him, and instantly
recognized me as one of his Sarawak friends, holding up
the kris of Budduruddin, the handle of which had been
carved from a walrus tooth which I had presented to
him. All the party appeared to participate in the de-
pression which appeared to weigh heavily upon their
Chief, on the loss of his relatives under such distressing
circumstances.

The canoes which came down upon this occasion

1846.] RIVER INANAM. 143

evidently expected to " make trade ", having full cargoes of
black Pepper, fine Tobacco (much prized by connoiseurs),
Bees' wax, Camphor (barus or crystallized), Sharks' fins,
Beche de Mer, edible Birds' nests, Tortoise shells, and
probably Pearls and Gold dust.

Towards night, a messenger came off requesting
medical aid, and Mr. Adams having volunteered, started
in a canoe to their assistance. It turned out to be merely
some affliction of a trifling nature amongst the women ;
it afforded, however, an opportunity of seeing the country.

Under the promise of a visit from the Chief on the
following day, the ship was moved close off" the mouth of
the river, but he was either afraid to trust himself outside
his territory, or probably too much distressed to attempt
it. This river can only be entered by boats ; the outer
edge of the bar, which stretches entirely across, is coral-
line, succeeded by sand at its shoalest part, where it is con-
nected with a large dry sandy delta, occupying about two-
thirds of the channel, and exhibiting symptoms of strong
freshes. Immediately after passing this, the river deepens,
and appears to afford a good space of water as far as the
eye could reach. Our boats entered to procure water,
but found that it was merely a small spring which fed
a well, which our forcing pumps cleared in a few minutes.
On taking leave of this Chief he begged to be remem-
bered to his friend Mr. Brooke, of whom he spoke in very
affecting terms, and to whom he looked forward for pro-
tection. Judging from the numbers of canoes, the popu-
lation must be great.

The river Inanam is situated about a mile and a half
to the westward of the Kabatuan, and is still more diffi-

1846.] KIMANIS BAY. 143

cult of approach, owing to the sand banks, which run a
considerable distance off. Excepting the chances of com-
municating with the interior it did not appear to afford
any advantage beyond that of a fishing station.

Dalrymple's account appears at fault here, I have
therefore omitted further comparison.

The large Island of Gaya being connected by a reef,
only admitting of a boat passage at high water, I consider
the inner waters to belong to Gaya Bay. Exterior to
it, westerly, we have other islands which certainly may
be classed in the group, but which deserve separate
notice. There are four immediately in connection to the
westward, and three others scattered, named Sugara, Di-
nawan or Salangar, and Llanliangan, named by us Button
Island, stretching as far as the eastern horn of Pulo Tiga
Bay. Within these islands are situated the rivers Papar
and Pangalat. The river Kinarut, which enters near the
bluff of that name, is navigable by boats. The village is
situated on the delta, formed by its smaller mouth, in the
sandy bay, about two miles easterly.

The eastern head of the great Pulo Tiga, or Kimanis
Bay, is Kiriindukan bluff and Hummock. The first river
is the Minani ; it is barred, but boats can enter at high
water. The next is Bangawan, barred completely; but at
a quarter of a mile southerly, we fell in with a natural
canal, or strip of water, parallel to the beach, containing
most excellent water. The ship was anchored in good
muddy holding ground, within half a mile of the beach,
and our wants completed with great ease. This spot is
worthy of particular notice, as we were much distressed
to find a good watering position, and had tried in vain

1846.] RIVER KIMANIS. 145

all the reported wells and fresh-water rivers without suc-
cess, Tampassook excepted, which I believe will always
afford good water within its mouth.

Four miles southerly from Bangawan is the Kimanis
river, the boundary of the Sooloo Territory, described by
Dalrymple as ceded to the East India Company. We
had been informed that this was a stream like the Tam-
passook', forcing its fresh waters into the sea. The pre-
vailing drought had its effect here, and we were informed
that it could only be obtained by sending our casks in
native canoes up the river, an experiment which, in the
present state of affairs, I was not disposed to try, inde-
pendent of our having obtained as much as we required
for the present. This river may be entered at high water
by boats or canoes ; the rollers are not troublesome on
the eastern side of the mouth, where three spits, parallel
to the coast, break it, and afford shelter within. Trade
may be carried on with these people, who are of two
distinct races, Bajow and Kadyan, but caution is neces-
sary. A Malay orang-kaya governs at the beach, and
from several facts I noticed, I think their mountain
friends, the Kadyans, would not hesitate to obtain by
force that which might be denied in barter.

Our operations here were attended with some difficulty.
On the evening of my first visit, when unaccompanied by
proper force, a feeling was exhibited which very much
resembled a disposition to be troublesome, and I thought
that 1 perceived suspicious motions, in recovering their
arms which had been left concealed in the bush. An
Oyster catcher, of a species anxiously wished for, but so
often missed by me as to obtain the appellation of " the

VOL. II. L

146 DEATH OF PANGERAN USOP. [1846.

Fairy ", as if bearing a charmed life, happened to alight at
good ball range ; the temptation was too strong : I fired,
and, fortunately perhaps for the termination of the evening,
the ball took effect. Our suspicious friends took the hint,
bade us good night, and hoped to see us in the morning.
On the day following I was attended by the two cutters,
with their guns. Traffic for poultry, eggs, goats, &c.,
went on fairly, but the prices for bullocks, agreed on the
previous evening, were very materially increased. We
therefore purchased less than intended, which displeased
the Kadyans.

The party on this river, are said to be neutral as to
the late massacre in Brune. One party being adherents
of the Sultan of Borneo, the other, relatives of the Sultan
of Tampassook. It was at this river, that Budduruddin
(the half-brother of the Rajah Muda liassim) overtook
Pangeran Usop, and under an official warrant from the
Sultan put him to death. This, it is stated, was the bond
fide cause of the slaughter, which ensued, of the ten bro-
thers of that party. They were civil to us, so long as
our boat force was assembled, but I was informed, much
inclined to give trouble after I quitted the beach. The
people of the Kimanis assured us that we should find
no more good men between them and Brune, " that they
were, principally, bad Bajows."

I have mixed much with all parties with whom I could
do so without foolhardiness. The Malays, invariably,
describe all the mountain races, as well as the Bajows,
"bad and dangerous people." The same character is
given of the Malays by their opponents, and, pro-
bably, as respects themselves, with some justice. But

1846.] KUALA LAMA. 147

the poor Bajows tell you " we are the poor but good
Bajows ; and I have met with more apparent warmth of
heart, amongst them than amongst Malays. Any act of
kindness which they perform, is with cheerfulness, not
grudging time or labour. If the least act, even to obtaining
a vessel of water, be attempted by a Malay, he carries it
in the very manner, with the awkwardness of pride.

My own conviction is, that neither the Bajow nor any of
the mountain tribes, Dyak, Kadyan, Dusun, or Sagai, will
harm you, if they once comprehend who you are ; but
living in constant dread of their oppressive neighbour,
the Malay, and habitually launching their weapons at
any object not answering to their idea of friend, it not
unfrequently happens that they are excessively shy in
meeting Europeans, or dealing with them ; the impression
being, as explained to me by the Sultan of Gunung
Taboor : " They consider you, in being superior to the
Dutch, and to ourselves, as only capable of doing them
so much more injury." This was from an honest, clear-
headed Malay, a Sultan, " who wished to be English,
and to hoist the English Flag." When, therefore, the
British character is better known on the east coast of
Borneo I am satisfied that the visits of our vessels will be
courted, not avoided as pests.

Westerly, from Kimanis, we fell in with the Memba-
kut, an insignificant stream ; no natives were seen. This
is succeeded by the Kuala-lama, termed fresh. It is
barred to anything above five feet draft, nearly dry at
low water, and rollers dangerous. At this river we met
with two prahus, the crews of which did not appear to
be friendly, they were warned off, and departed rather

L2

148 PULO TIGA. [1846.

sulkily. The last river in this great bay, is the Kuala-
panco. This is an extensive river, with a wide entrance,
but barred to vessels drawing ten feet, or four feet at low
water. No natives were noticed, either within its mouth,
nor in its immediate neighbourhood. Northerly of this,
the Pulo Tiga, or three island group, stands out to sea-
ward, forming the western horn of this great bay. The
largest of the group is nearest to the point of Borneo,
and has a safe channel between, although a long reef
showing clearly, as white water, extends from the
southern part of the island, and is easily avoided. The
current sets strongly easterly. Between the second and
third, the channel is safe, but not without a pilot ; be-
tween the outer and second, it is barred by an extensive
flat of reef, studded with numerous rocks. The outer
island, received the name of Bird Island from us, in con-
sequence of the numerous bones and skeletons of birds
found upon it. As we were delayed some time cleansing
its summit for a station, an explanation of the unusual
quantity of bones, &c., was offered by the self-capture of
a bird in the toils which cover the trees, consisting of
seed. These seed-vessels, belonging to an undescribed
species of Pisonia, are covered with very minute recurved
hooks, which on being applied to the skin, seem not only
to have the power of tension, by the hook, but are also
charged with a fine resinous matter, the combination
acting equal to bird-lime. The bird settling on the tree,
first finds the tips of its feathers caught, and, in the
struggle to release itself, becomes hampered ; the object,
which we found surprised by these seed-vessels, had been
entangled between the wings on the back, and was

1846.] BIRD ISLAND. 149

utterly incapacitated for flight ; and being found in this
state, fluttering for life, was brought to me. As the
island was covered with the skeletons of large birds, it is
to be presumed that they suffer the same fate, worse
than that of the fabled Upas, as there, life becomes sud-
denly extinct, whereas this becomes a lingering death by
starvation, and vain efforts at release; unless some
knowing, superannuated bird of prey should take up his
quarters beneath the trees. Bird Island is surrounded
by a reef, which projects northerly about one mile, and
south-westerly, about two. Four miles north of it, is a
reef, with four rocks shewing above water, but the
channel betwen it and Bird Island is safe by day. The
dangers outside of it have not been examined.

Here the rivers contained between Sampanmangio
and Labuan terminate.

150

CHAPTER XIV.

LABUAN TO MAURITIUS.

Coast of Bird Island — Attack of Pirates — Revisit Labuan — Discovery
of a Watering Bay — List of Rivers — Lines of Coal — Reach
Sarawak — Death of Mr. Williamson — Detail of Massacre at
Brune — Loss of the Sultan Muda Hassim — Observations on the
Trading interests of Borneo — Letter from Mr. Jesse to the East
India Company — Chinese located in the City of Brune — Of the
Mission about to sail for Borneo — Original Paper from Mr.
Brooke, on the state of the Indian Archipelago, in 1838, bearing
on the present aspect of affairs at Borneo — Leave Borneo, passing
Tanjong Api and St. Pierre Islands— Land on Barren Island— Reach
Singapore — Dullness of the town — Life and bustle introduced by
landing of the Ship's Crew — Description of the town — Division of
the Inhabitants — Manufacture of Pirate arms — Occupation of
Pulo Brani, or Gage Island — Leave Singapore — Island of Billi-
ton — Strike on a rock — Dangerous situation of the Ship —
Lighten the Ship of Guns and Spars, and escape into deep water
— New Island named Pigeon Island — Dangers of the Carimata
Channel — Reach Anjer, Straits of Sunda — Opinion relative to the
erection of a Lighthouse — Arrive at Cocos or Keeling Islands —
Sailing qualities of the ' Samarang ' class — Reach the Cargados
Garajos — Transactions there — Visit Mauritius.

THE coast from Bird Island towards Labuan, is not safe to
approach within the depth of twenty fathoms, until more
closely examined. During our progress along the coast-line,
I determined on walking the beach between two stations,
in preference to calling the gig in to convey me, and ac-
companied by one of my boat's crew, carrying a fowling-
piece, in addition to his musket, and our Spanish captive,

1846.] ATTACK OF PIRATES. 151

now acting as interpreter in the Bajow tongue, was saun-
tering quietly along, the Spaniard walking at the water
line, picking up shells abreast of me, my course being
about ten yards above him, and the same distance from the
trees. Suddenly, I heard a ringing shot, apparently be-
hind me, and thinking the seaman was firing the fowling-
piece at some object, turned round to inquire what he
was about ; his reply was, " they are shooting you, Sir,"
and advancing rapidly to give me the fowling-piece,
darted towards the trees, where he suddenly discharged
his musket. A yell from the jungle soon informed me
that we were upon unsafe ground, and the gig was
promptly in to support me. No one could be seen,
and all was again quiet, when my poor Spaniard, who
had taken it very coolly, shewed me his/roc^, which he
said they had damaged. I then found that they had hit
him instead of me, the ball cutting his arm and grazing
his back, through his frock. Our force, consisting of
the gig's crew, being now in fighting order, and the boats
signalled to close, the cutter, with Mr. Richards, and
second barge, with Lieut. Richardson, were soon moving
towards us. In a few moments an armed party emerged
from the bushes on our right, and held out a dirty cloth on
a spear. They were warned back, but seemed to despise
our warning. I therefore ordered musketry to be fired
towards them. They immediately exhibited themselves
in then" true colours, cutting all imaginable capers of
defiance with their shields, and swords, and using insul-
ting gestures. The cutter was directed to give them a
round shot, which went over them. This, they also
derided, redoubling their defiance, and advancing, but

152 REVISIT LABUAN. [1846.

the second round appeared to take effect, as they carried off
their man, and quitted us altogether. Upon examining
the spot where the affair took place, a well-fitted prahu,
evidently adapted for war purposes, was found hauled up
amongst the trees ; she was launched, and taken to the
ship. A few shot were then fired over a village seen
through the trees on the heights, in order to show them,
that, insignificant as our boats might appear in their
estimation, their guns would throw their shot, effectually,
much beyond their calculation, after which, we left them
to ponder over the result of their wanton provocation.

On the 23rd April we anchored off the eastern passage
to Labuan, and completed the survey of the outer dangers,
left unfinished in November, 1844. In consequence of
reports in circulation, relative to the entire failure of
water, at the period that it was visited by the Squadron
during the late year, my attention was principally di-
rected to the discovery of this necessary, in sufficient
quantity to support any establishment which the British
Government might make upon this island, in consequence
of the offer of its cession, which had been made by the
Sultan and Chiefs through the intervention of Mr. Brooke
and the Rajah Muda Hassim, and which, as before noticed,
had been forwarded by me to the British Government in
November, 1844. At my former visit, I found a strong
stream rushing in cascade over the rocks on the eastern
side near Collier's Bluff,* nearly on the line where the
bluffs are succeeded by low land. I knew, that the highest
portion of the island lay to the northward of this, and
pursuing the ordinary argument in sandstone formations,
* Named in compliment to Commodore Sir George Collier.

1846.] DISCOVER WATER. 153

that even if this stream should fail in discharging itself
into the sea, during any extraordinary drought, as that of
the present season, common sense pointed out, that water
would flow by the lines of inclined strata to any wells
which might be judiciously sunk at levels below any of
the higher ranges.

Our present examination afforded us another clue, and
this was, the line of direction of the strata, which proved
to be about north-east and south-west ; the general slope
of the land being to the southward. We therefore
expected to find streams flowing in that direction. An
examination of the old stream, alluded to on the east,
proved, that although it did not now jet in cascade over
the ledge, that not far within, it was still held in natural
reservoirs, and although somewhat discoloured by the
leaves, still sweet and well tasted. Pursuing our re-
searches, we noticed many small fresh drains, and a few
pools, but it was not until we arrived at the termination
of what, in contradistinction to the Mangrove region, I
shall term the skirting of terra Jirma, that we began to
meet with decided fresh streams. I am the more in-
clined to notice this matter, because I fear that unwar-
rantable assertions, of the absence of fresh water fit for
consumption, did, in some measure, damage my report
on Labuan, as to its capabilities of sustaining a colony,
and possibly for some months, I may say a year, retard
the completion of this important Treaty.

It was not until we rounded the last bend of the land,
and opened the south-west bay, that we met with any
source which promised abundance, without recurring to
the course, which must ever be preferred, the method by
sinking wells.

154 WATERING BAY. [1846-

Immediately on rounding the S.W. angle of the island,
a large sandy bay is formed with the Southern Point.
No less than three powerful streams were met, one of
which was of sufficient force to cut its channel through
a heavy sand-bank, three feet perpendicularly; and,
tracing its course inland, appeared, by the profusion of
floating timber, to be, in fact, a River.

Our object being thus satisfied, the most convenient
spot for anchorage, as well as watering, had to be sought.
The greater portion of this bay is studded with rocks,
which, at dead low water, spring-tides would almost deter
a vessel from venturing near them : but the most eligible
spot will be found off the northern dry ledge, near to the
termination of the Casuarina trees, in the sandy bight.
Here the ' Samararig ' and ' Royalist ' found secure berths
within a quarter of a mile from the beach, in five and a
half fathoms, the boats landing at a smooth, but conve-
niently steep, sandy beach, within three hose lengths
of the reservoir. This watering-place was, in itself, a
natural curiosity ; from the north, behind the Casuarina
trees, and parallel to the shore, an extensive and deep
strip of water was barred from the sea, and much above
its level, by a barrier of sand, about thirty yards in
width, by at least six in height ; an unsuccessful attempt
was made, by cutting a deep drain, to draw off this, which
was salt, in the hope that fresh water would eventually
flow. Separated, only, by a mass of rock about twelve feet
wide, another strip from inland, nearly met this purely
fresh. From this latter we procured during the day
(8, A.M., until 7. 30, P.M.), eleven and a half hours, (all
boats up and in) forty tons, besides ' Royalist ', without

1846.]

LIST OP RIVERS.

155

sensibly diminishing the level. I think, therefore, that I
may safely say, as at this period all the famed fresh rivers
of Borneo were salt, from drought, that Labuan does not
deserve this slur. If any reliance can be placed in Malay
experience, I was informed, most positively, by a very
intelligent old man, that " should all the streams of which
he had given me information, fail, I might find sweet
water in Labuan." As he furnished me also with his
catalogue of the rivers I here annex them ; tawar signi-
fying sweet, and masin (a-sin Bisaya), salt.

Tampassook, tawar.
Abai, masin.

Sulaman,

Kawalan, tawar,
Mankabung, masin.
Kabatuan, tawar.
Putatan,
Kinarut, masin.

Gawang,

Pangalat,

Papar, tawar.
Minam,

Bangawan, tawar.

Kimanis,

Membakiit,

Kuala lama,

Kuala panco, masin ?

Kaliass,

Badas,

Sari, masin.

Kangaran,

Brune,

Tutong,

Meri (or red) —

(within fresh).

The rocks in the vicinity of our anchorage were
covered with most delicious oysters, of large dimensions,
requiring to be quartered before eating, and the labours of
watering over, men and Officers regaled themselves to
their full enjoyment on them, roast, stewed, and an
naturel.

Later reports * state that " the island is traversed by
numerous streams, of which some are of considerable
dimension, though only two appear to flow at all seasons

* St. John.

156 LINES OF COAL. [1846.

of the year. Water, however, is found everywhere, by
digging, in great abundance, and of the most excellent
quality."

As to the new geological features of the island, noticed
on this examination, we found that the coal lines, or
those on which we should estimate the probability of
working, appeared to cut the island nearly in two halves,
and that the western lines of direction, spitted out in a
sharp ridge and islets, similarly to the northern reefs,
(which are there under water) in parallels of N.E. and
S.W. The dip of the S.W. islet inclining about 60°
northerly.

After my report upon the coal measures of Labuan, in
1844, and with the recorded opinion of Sir Henry De la
Beche to the Admiralty, " that the specimens forwarded
were equal in quality to our best Newcastle," the idea of
raising coal in any quantity upon this island was ridiculed.
Indeed, the very question of acceptance of the territory
met a similar fate Fortunately, however, through the able
advocacy of Mr. Brooke, and I suspect in no small degree
aided by his untiring advocate Mr. Wise, Government were
induced to turn their attention, seriously, to the offer made
by the Sultan; and in December, 1846, more than two
years from the offer of its cession, the Treaty was com-
pleted, and the British Flag hoisted, under the customary
solemnities, by Capt. R. Mundy, of H.M.S. ' Iris '.

What has been the result of later examinations ? Just
what might have been expected ; by following up the
next parallel stratum within the northern " crop out "
near the sea, excellent coal was obtained, and no less
than forty tons procured for the ' Phlegethon ' steamer,

1846.] FISH. 157

worked as low, I believe, as 17s. per ton. Referring
to my despatch of November, 1844, I find these words.
" As this coal occurs at the surface on the northern part
of Labuan ; the dip at five miles southerly will, in all
probability, secure larger beds at fifty to sixty feet below
the surface." As to the other productions of Labuan,
I believe that timber will be all that can be expected,
and this, doubtless, will be required for the erection of
the necessary buildings ; the remainder will probably be
consumed by fire in clearing the soil, as, until that desi-
rable operation is complete, the land properly drained,
and a free circulation of air ensured, it will be dangerous
to reside on shore. The entire destruction by fire of all
the trees but those reserved for shade and ornament,
would greatly add to the salubrity, and, as the surrounding
shores and islands are plentifully stocked with timber,
their loss would never be felt on Labuan.

Fish is abundant upon all the coasts of Borneo, and
from the purity of the sea near Labuan, being free from
the muddy admixture of the river, it is highly probable
that they may prove of superior quality ; I cannot, how-
ever, agree, from personal observation during my visits in
1844 and 1846, in the story of between two and three
hundred persons pursuing the fisheries ; I think that we
noticed, in all, about half a dozen boats. On the occasion
of my last visit, one canoe, carrying a person evidently a
spy from Borneo, fearlessly came alongside my gig, and,
in reply to my interrogations, assured me, " that no vessel
of war had for six months past been at Brune, or in this
neighbourhood," an assertion, which I knew to be untrue,
as the ' Royalist ' had met H.M.S. ' Hazard ' and learned

158 REACII SARAWAK. [1846.

from her Commander, of the attempt to entrap him in
March last, at Moarra, immediately after the massacre of
the Rajah Muda Hassim and his brothers. This man
was not ignorant of that affair, and upon being questioned
why the Sultan had acted in such a manner, merely
shrugged his shoulders and observed "that was the
Sultan's affair; poor people never troubled themselves
about such matters." Not having any authentic infor-
mation relative to this affair, and perfectly satisfied that
no good could result from my visit to the city, I deter-
mined on moving forward to Sarawak, where I should be
able to obtain complete information from Mr. Brooke.

On the 30th, having reached the Moratabas entrance
of the river, the ' Samarang ' was moored off Tanjong Po,
and instructions left for perfecting the exterior lines of
soundings. Quitting the ship, with the barge and gig,
I moved on with the remaining flood-tide, reaching the
inner entrance shortly after dark. Here we met with
several prahus at anchor, who did not at first like our
visit, but upon our inquiring for Mr. Brooke became
more at ease, and informed us, that he had lately quitted
in the Kapal Api (steamer, literally, fire ship) for the
Siriki river. As the ebb tide had made, we remained at
anchor until dawn, when we pushed on with the flood,
and reached Kuching about 7 o'clock, where we were
welcomed by our old acquaintance Mr. Roepell, who
confirmed the report of Mr. Brooke's absence, but ex-
pected him to return in seven days. I here found a note
from Mr. Brooke, most kindly desiring me to take pos-
session of his house, and hoping to return in time to
meet me.

1846.] DEATH OF MR. WILLIAMSON. 159

Here we obtained full particulars of the lamentable
massacre at Brune. Nor was Sarawak without its loss ;
Mr. Williamson, the very talented interpreter of Mr.
Brooke, and a great favourite with every one who knew
him, had fallen overboard from his canoe at night, at the
very steps of Mr. Brooke's landing-place, and sunk to
rise no more ! I am satisfied that not even to his own
immediate circle at Sarawak, was the intelligence of his
loss more painfully felt than to his old friends of the
'Samarang/ to whom his acts of kindness during our
distress were unremitting. Mr. Brooke's note to me
fully bore out the great loss which he sustained ; and the
public service on northern Borneo has much to deplore
the absence of his abilities : as the medium of communi-
cation between the natives and the establishment at
Kuching, his death will be much felt.

Not having seen Mr. Brooke on this occasion I cannot
do better than add here the following extract from the
Singapore paper, describing the massacre at Brune, as
as well Mr. Brooke's present cruize.

" The following information relative to the barbarities
of the Sultan, we believe to have been detailed on oath
before Mr. Brooke by one Japper, a native of Brune, and
servant of the murdered victim, Pangeran Budduruddin.
Japper stated that he was sent by his master on board
H.M.S. 'Hazard' to warn Captain Egerton against any
treacherous artifice which the Sultan might employ to
entice him on shore. For the better understanding of
the nature of the intelligence entrusted to Japper, Cap-
tain Egerton proceeded with him to Sarawak, where he
communicated to Mr. Brooke the murders which he

160 DETAIL OF MASSACRE AT BRUNE. [1846.

witnessed at Brune. From the testimony of Japper, it
appeared, that the Rajah Muda Hassim (by the Sultan
raised to the title of Sultan Muda, or young Sultan,) who,
together with his brothers and followers, was living in
security under the protection of the Sultan, was, by the
orders of the latter, attacked at night, and slain, as also
thirteen of his family, residing at different places. Pan-
geran Muda Mahomed, Pangeran Abdul Kader, Pangeran
Abdul Raman, and Pangeran Misahut, the four brothers
of the Sultan Muda, and several young children of the Sul-
tan Muda, alone escaped the massacre. At the time of the
attack, Japper was in attendance on the Pangeran Bud-
duruddin ; the latter, notwithstanding, that he was some-
what taken by surprise, fought gallantly. Wounded in
both rists, severely cut down the forehead, the Pangeran
Budduruddin was compelled to retire within the house,
accompanied by his sister and a female attendant, named
Noor Salam. Both women were wounded, as also the
servant Japper. As there was 110 chance either of over-
powering the Sultan's assassins or effecting his escape,
the Pangeran Budduruddin resolved to terminate his
sufferings and those of the women : he desired Japper to
open a cask of gunpowder and to strew it on the floor ;
this done, he removed his ring from his finger, gave it
to Japper, and requested him to convey it to Mr. Brooke,
at the same time urging Japper to request that Mr.
Brooke would bear him in remembrance, and make known
his case to Queen Victoria. Japper bidding his master
farewell, got through the flooring to the river (which the
house being built, as is customary, on piles, enabled him
to do) and effected his escape. Immediately after Japper's

1846.] MOTIVES. 161

departure the Pangeran Budduruddin fired the train, and
he, with the two women, was blown up.

" The manner in which the Sultan Muda Hassim and
others of his family were slain, is not detailed ; Japper
probably knew of their slaughter only from what he
heard : his information being confined to what he was an
eye-witness of. After much difficulty the servant Japper
got clear of the assassins ; the ring entrusted to his charge
is stated to have been taken from him by the Sultan, but
where he fell in with the Sultan, and how the latter pos-
sessed himself of the ring is left to conjecture. Re-
specting the murder of the Rajah Muda Hassim (Sultan
Muda) Japper remarks, that " the Sultan and those with
him killed the Rajah Muda Hassim and his family/' from
which we may infer that the Sultan was present at, and
encouraged, the slaughter.

" The motive of these cruel murders is well known. The
Rajah was friendly to the English, which displeased the
Sultan, who being under the influence of the Dutch
authorities at Batavia, was inimical to the establishment
of a British colony in Borneo. In support of the ill
feeling entertained by the Sultan to the English, Japper
is understood to have stated on oath before Mr. Brooke,
that the Sultan had built forts at Borneo Proper, and set
the English at defiance ; indeed, to such a length had the
Sultan's insolence and treachery proceeded, that in open
Durbar he talked of cutting out any English vessel that
arrived; in support of this. bravado, Japper declared (on
oath) that two vessels were sent down bearing the flag of
the Rajah Muda Hassim (the known friend of the En-
glish) to entrap H.M.S. ' Hazard ', and murder all on

VOL. II. M

162 ARRIVAL OF THE ' PHLEGETHON '. [1846.

board. As if the last-mentioned act of treachery was not
enough, the Sultan is sworn to have requested one
Nakodah Kalab to proceed to Kaluka, and, in the Sultan's
name, desire the Pangeran Makota, by treachery or for-
cible means to destroy Mr. Brooke.

"Under the circumstances we have noted above,
Mr. Brooke on the 1st of April addressed a communica-
tion to the Strait authorities, detailing what had oc-
curred, and soliciting, that, as at no time since he had
been Her Majesty's agent at Borneo had there been so
urgent a necessity of exhibiting to the natives of Borneo
the power and influence of the English, the Strait autho-
rities would be pleased to send an armed steamer to
Sarawak. The request was cordially entertained by
Colonel Butterworth C.B., Governor of the Settlements.
This information was brought by H.M.S. * Hazard ' just
as the steamer was about to leave with the overland mail
to Europe; the steamer was detained some hours to
communicate to the Bengal Government the position of
affairs at Borneo.

"On the 19th of April the H.C. Steamer, 'Phlege-
thon ', which under Captain Ross and her present
officers, has rendered several useful services to the state,
was despatched from Singapore, and arrived at Sarawak
at noon on the 23rd. On the 26th the ' Phlegethon '
dropped down the river, and on the 28th started with
Mr. Brooke to the eastward. On the 29th the steamer
entered the river Redjang. On the following day arrived
at Serikye, where a party from the steamer landed, and
for three successive days conversed with the Patinga Ab-
dool Raman, the head man of the place. The nature of

1846.] VISIT SIRIKI AND BATTANY BALIOU. 163

the conversation did not transpire. On the 3rd of May
the ' Phlegethon ' again started, having on board the
Tuanku and a large party of natives, who were after-
wards landed at the entrance of the creek : the steamer
passed into another river, up which she steamed till dark
and then anchored for the night, about sixty miles from
the coast : the river is described as broad and deep, with
a rapid current. No Dyak boats were met in proceed-
ing up the river, although it is reported that numerous
parties were in the habit of passing down the river
to the sea, for the purpose of committing piracies. On
the 4th, the ' Phlegethon ' passed the junction of two
large rivers at Marling, entered the Battang Baliou, and
at 4, P.M., anchored off Egan, where a party from the
steamer landed and had an interview with the Tuanku
Schriff Sakarran.

" May 6th. Steamed out of the Battang Baliou, and
proceeded twelve miles up the coast to the eastward.
Entered the Owah river and anchored off Owah at noon;
at this place a party went on shore, and had an interview
with Pangeran Matalee. The Owah river is described
as small, the entrance shallow, with about one fathom
and a half over the bar. At Owah the ' Phelegethon '
remained till the 9th, and steaming out the same day,
conveyed the Pangeran and a large party of natives to
the entrance of the river. May 1 Oth, arrived at Sarawak,
via Moratabas, and remained there some days. On the
afternoon of the 18th the 'Phlegethon' left Santobong,
with Mr. Brooke on board, steered round Tanjong Sipang
to the eastward, and early on the morning of the 19th
anchored off the Batang Lupar river : at daylight passed

M 2

164 VISITS LINGA. [1846.

up the river to a branch proceeding to Linga ; at this
place the chiefs, with six large war boats full of people,
came to pay their respects to Mr. Brooke ; whilst here
those on board the steamer saw twenty-four boats pro-
ceeding up the river to attack the Sakarran Dyaks.
These latter people are the enemies of Mr. Brooke, and
live by piracy : they had not long since attacked Linga,
where they killed upwards of 100 people, and carried off
150 slaves.

" May 20th, weighed anchor early in the morning,
steamed out of the river, and crossed the bar in one
fathom and a half at low water. At 11, A.M., entered
the Kalukka river, and anchored off the town. At
Kalukka a party from the vessel had an interview with
the chief man of the place, who is an Arab ; at this
place met Pangeran Der Makota (a known enemy of
Mr. Brooke) who was on a visit from Sambas. On the
morning of the 26th the ' Phlegethon ' left Sarawak, and
arrived at Singapore on the 29th, at noon.

" The object of despatching the steamer has been fully
answered ; it was desired only to produce a moral effect by
exhibiting to the natives of Borneo that the British Govern-
ment was as resolute, as it is able, to maintain supremacy
wherever its flag appeared; in this respect the mission
succeeded, and so well, that we are at a loss for terms
sufficiently adequate to acknowledge the humane conduct
of Mr. Brooke, on the one hand, and the manly bearing
of the Commander of the steamer and his Officers on
the other. Several Pangerans of places where the
' Phlegethon ' visited were surprised at the appearance
of an armed steamer ; most of the inhabitants had never

1846.] v RETURN TO SINGAPORE. 165

seen anything larger than a native prahu. The moral
effect of the appearance of a steamer will serve as a check
to the piratical Dyaks for some time. In the course of
a few months, it is most probable that the Admiral, with
a powerful force, will proceed to the seat of Government
and compel the Sultan to give an account of his conduct."
This servant of Budduruddin, above alluded to, happened
to be one of a party sent from Brune under the well-known
standard of the Sultan Muda Hassirn, in order to decoy
Captain Egerton, of H.M.S. ' Hazard ', into their power.
This it was proposed to effect by inviting Captain
Egerton to land on the Island of Moarra, situated at
the outer entrance of the Brune river, to walk or amuse
himself, when it was intended to capture, or murder him:
he was not inclined to land, and thus frustrated their
object. Japper escaping to the ' Hazard ' informed
Captain Egerton of the plot, as well as of the massacre of
his master and connections. As the interpreter on board
the ' Hazard ' did not appear sufficiently au fait at his
business, Capt. Egerton thought it preferable to take him
to Sarawak, where he would not only learn the truth but
also obtain the advice of Mr. Brooke as to further opera-
tions. The statement, therefore, that Japper had been
sent by his master to warn Capt. Egerton is absurb, as
the massacre took place before the arrival of the ' Hazard '.
As Budduruddin was particularly attached to Mr. Brooke,
and the friendship, I believe, was mutual, it is highly
probable that he was sent to warn any English vessel
which might arrive, and through her means seek Mr.
Brooke. The loss of Pangeran Budduruddin can only
be duly estimated by those who had the pleasure of

166 CHARACTER OF BUDURUDDIN. [1846.

knowing his worth. Quick, enterprising, and intelligent
to a degree, beyond any of his countrymen, he was not
only the favourite of the English, who happened to visit
Borneo, but he was a staunch supporter of our interests,
to which, indeed, I fear he has fallen a martyr. The loss
of two such staunch friends, as the Sultan Muda Hassim
and his half-brother, to the general interests of humanity,
as well as commerce, is much to be deplored. As an
inquiry into these matters will shortly take place, it is
to be hoped that something more authentic than the
report of Japper may be forthcoming from the Officers
employed on that service. At the moment of committing
this to the press Mr. Brooke has arrived in England, so
that, before he returns, we may, probably, be favoured
with some authentic details relative to these matters, as
well as his visit to Siriki, an important river, immediately
in the neighbourhood of his own territory of Sarawak.

Having waited most anxiously for Mr. Brooke, until
the shortness of our provisions rendered further delay
hazardous, we gave up further hopes on the morning of
the 8th of May, directing our head for Singapore. On
the evening of the 9th, we fell in with Mr. Brooke's
schooner, 'Julia' off Tanjong Datu, having on board
Lieut. Elliot, of the Madras Engineers, the energetic
Superintendent of the Magnetic Observatory at Singa-
pore, who kindly paid me a visit during the calm which
prevailed. Lieut. Elliot was on his passage to pay Mr.
Brooke a visit, after which he purposed carrying out, at
his own cost, a series of Magnetic Observations in every
accessible part of Borneo. On the 10th we cleared the
Borneo shores.

1846.] TRADING INTERESTS OF BORNEO. 167

I cannot take leave of this portion of the world in
which all my feelings have been so deeply interested,
without a few words, influenced by the very decided
measures, which I am happy to find our Government
intend carrying out.

The trading interests of Borneo, or the probabilities of
our commerce increasing in these regions to the amount
contemplated by some over-sanguine advocates, requires
to be guarded against. From the year 1843 to the pre-
sent time, I have made it my study, as it was my duty,
to collect and weigh every minute circumstance which
could bear upon this most important subject ; nor will I
yield to any one in feeling of deep interest for the success
of our new position. At Singapore, as well as at Hong-
Kong, Manila, and Sooloo, some of my readers will
understand the assertion I make, " that I not only used
every effort to open trade direct with Gunung Taboor, Tam-
bisan, and Kabatuan ; but at my persuasion, two persons
have made the attempt ;" others met me with the observa-
tion : " All which you state is very true, and the prices are
favourable in the highest degree, but you cannot warrant
half a cargo, even for a small schooner" At Gunung Taboor
the Sultan bound himself to supply a cargo for one vessel
filling up with rattans, Cassia bark, &c., but more he
could not promise, as the collection of one year. At
Kabatuan, I was informed, that beyond about thirty
canoes present, the same quantity of Pepper might
be added, but no more. At Kimanis, it was probable
that Pepper, Wax, Camphor, and Bird's nests, would
afford twenty canoe loads. All these proceeds would
amount, possibly, to ten tons, stripping the coast for the

168 RESOURCES OF NORTHERN BORNEO. [1846.

season. Treating of Maludu Bay, and the sources of
trade to be derived from that region I have observed
p. 124, "That the establishment of a British port or
colony on any part of the northern shores of Borneo,
will not, I suspect, induce any of the native authorities to
send there for sale." This remark is intended to apply
to cargoes, or quantities. The small traders will, as
remarked to me by Mr. Brooke, creep alongshore, and
find their way to the best market. But until the colony
is firmly settled, and piracy annihilated on the range of
coast by which trade must pass, this state of affairs will be
slow of arriving ; and when it does, still, until the habits
of the inland tribes become settled, and they plant for,
and send to your market, the same scantiness of tonnage
must prevail. I must still adhere to. the only feasible
plan of inducing trade by sending small craft to the ports
in immediate connection with the Brune territory, that is,
between Maluda Bay and Labuan, and collect at the in-
termediate ports of Tampassook, Ambong, Sulaman,
Kabatuan, and Kimanis, what the Kadyan or Dusun
will bring to the coast, for we cannot jump to the con-
clusion, that the cultivators will turn navigators to get
rid of their produce; otherwise, my original evil, the
intervention of the Malay or Bugis, comes in to destroy
the advantages of direct commerce.*

My professional brethren will probably take alarm at

" In connection with the occupation of the new colony of Labuan,
it is mentioned that the good effects of that measure are already de-
veloping themselves. The communication between Singapore and
Brune is now frequent, through the medium of trading vessels, and it
is expected that the next annual returns will exhibit a considerable in-
crease in commercial operations with that quarter. ' Haw Sago ', it is

1846.] SCALE OF BARTER. 169

this apparent trading disposition, contrary to Act of
Parliament, &c. ; but they will cease to feel any sur-
prise when they learn that in all voyages of discovery,
exploration, &c., it becomes the bounden duty of the
Commander not only to ascertain the produce of the
countries which he visits, but to collect samples, &c. j
and in order to facilitate these measures, as well as to
ensure supplies of fresh food and vegetables for his crew,
that he is supplied with the necessary articles of traffic
" by Authority of the Lords Commissioners of the Ad-
miralty ", thus taking away the venom fang of the law.

To proceed to business ; at Ambong, being present in
the port, we purchased for the use of the crew, one bul-
lock for forty yards of long cloth. These forty yards
cost in England 9s. ; the value of one bullock, 181 Ibs.,
therefore, is 12s. The largest, sixty yards, 230 Ibs., the
smallest forty yards, 160 Ibs., mean average 181 Ibs. Bees' -
wax, 1 cake=12 Ibs., ten yards=2s. 6d., little more than
Zd. per Ib. Now at Kabatuan, one cake of Bees'-wax of
12 Ibs., was valued at seven yards, equal to 1*. §\d. At
Kimanis, 25 Ibs. of Pepper were purchased for ten yards,
=2*. Id., pr \d. per Ib. Would any of these articles be
delivered at Laluan, at a less profit to the carriers than
500 or 800 per cent. ?

The following extract is the substance of a letter to
the Court of Directors of the East India Company, from
Mr. Jesse, the 20th of July, 1775, at Borneo Proper.*

observed, ' appears to be in great abundance. It is converted into
flour and pearl for the European market.' Of the eleven piratical
prahus lately attacked by the ' Nemesis ' it seems that only three have
escaped back to that place." — Times (City article), Oct. 25th, 1847.
* Dalrymple's collection.

170 MR. JESSIE'S CORRESPONDENCE. [1846.

" The Chief and Council of Balambangan, in the be-
ginning of the last year, addressed a letter to the State of
Borneo, informing them of their arrival at Balambangan,
and wishes of entering into alliance with them. In con-
sequence of this invitation an ambassador arrived from
thence in June ; and I had the honour of being appointed
to return with him, to open an intercourse there, and to
enter into such engagements as might appear most to the
Company's advantage.

I arrived there in the month of August, and found them
unanimous in their inclination to cultivate the friendship
and alliance of the Honourable Company : in conse-
quence thereof, I made it my first care to discover the
motives which principally induced them thereto, that 1
might be the better enabled so to frame my Treaty, as to
keep them dependent in such particulars they most
essentially stood in need of; which I then found to be,
and have since been confirmed therein, was protection
from their Piratical neighbours, the Sooloos and Minda-
naos, and others, who make continual depredations on
their coast, by taking advantage of their natural timidity.
To relieve them, therefore, in this particular, and to in-
duce them the more readily to consent to my subsequent
proposals, I stipulated by one of the articles, that (if
attacked) the Company should protect them ; and having
thus gratified them in their principal want, in return, I
demanded for the Company, agreeably to the tenour of
my instructions, the exclusive trade of the Pepper : as I
well knew it was the grand object they wished to attain,
and I therefore made it my study to be thoroughly ac-
quainted with every particular relative thereto. I was

1846.] PEPPER TRADE OF BRUNE. 171

informed the quantity that year was 4,000 Peculs, culti-
vated solely by a colony of Chinese, settled here, and sold
to the Junks at the rate of 17 j Spanish dollars per
pecul, in Ckwta-doth, called Congons, which, for want of
any other specie,* are become the standard for regulating
the price of all commercial commodities at this Port.
Although I was well convinced it would not answer the
Company's purpose to pay so high a price for the Pepper,
especially where the quantity was so small, I notwith-
standing, in the Treaty, made a point of securing to them
the exclusive trade of that article, to be paid for in mer-
chandize, at such rates as might indemnify them at pre-
sent, in the inconvenience of the high price, to the end
that it might divert the Junk trade, f from this to Balam-
bcngan (their grand inducement for coming here being
thus removed), which, together with my having bound
the state to oblige all their dependants to make planta-
tions, whereby the quantity would not only be greatly
increased, but from their having no other purchasers, the
Company would be enabled to fix such prices as would
give ample encouragement to the Planters, and soon
reimburse the expences, which were necessitated to be
borne at the beginning of the undertaking; and the
more so, as, in consequence of their industry, becoming
yearly richer, they would find our protection but the
more indispensibly necessary.

" Things being fixed on this basis, the Englishman and
Borneyan becoming thus mutually necessary to each

* They use bits of iron, at present, weighing about four ounces,
t Doubtful policy.

172 IDOLATROUS MOUNTAIN TRIBES. [1846.

other, I flattered myself the event might have produced
a solid and real commercial advantage, as well to the
nation as to the Company, and the more so, as from the
great probability of the Hill People being soon induced
also to plant, who, by receiving doth as the price of their
industry, would naturally increase the consumption, and
render our manufactures with them a necessary of life ;
these being by far the most numerous, and the Abo-
rigines of the island; another advantage accruing there-
from, is, that having once connected these people in
interest with the Company, and familiarized them to our
customs, the inhabitants of the sea coast would be unable
(were they inclined) to obstruct or molest the prosecution
of the Company's views. These were the motives which
first induced me to secure to the Company, in the treaty
with the Borneyans, the exclusive trade in Pepper,
although at that time on seemingly disadvantageous
terms ; how far I may have acted with propriety remains
with the Company to determine."

The same writer observes: — "With respect to the
Idaan, or Mooroots, as they are called here, I cannot
give any account of their disposition ; but from what I
have heard from the Borneyans, they are a set of aban-
doned Idolaters ; one of their tenets so strangely inhuman
I cannot pass unnoticed, which is, that their future
interest depends upon the number of their fellow crea-
tures they have killed in any engagement, or common
disputes, and count their degrees of happiness, to depend
on the number of Human skulls in their possession ; from
which, and the wild disorderly life they lead, unrestrained

1846.] INTRODUCTION OF'CHINESE. 173

by any bond of civil society, we ought not to be surprised
if they are of a cruel and vindictive disposition."

With respect to the policy of discouraging the resort
of the Chinese to Brune, I am much inclined to differ
from this writer. The number of Chinese supposed to
reside at one period in the city of Brune exceeded several
thousands ; at that period trade prospered, there was an
interchange of commodities, and the useful arts were
pursued. Upon their departure the Malays fell back into
their idle sluggish condition, and instead of advancing
as a civilized community, retrograded into their original
character of Rover or Pirate.

We are now anxious to introduce the Chinese, for with-
out their aid in the working of the mines, and interior
traffic, commerce will progress but tardily; British consti-
tutions are not calculated to undergo the severe labour of
the Chinese Cooly in such a climate as Borneo. Another
prospect is dawning, and with it the chance of seeing
stationary depots established amongst the mountain tribes.

The following introduction to extracts from the Colo-
nial Church Chronicle relative to the " Borneo Mission "
so fully agrees with my formerly recorded opinions upon
these matters, that I cannot forbear inserting it.

" Though we have never concealed our antipathy to the
system commonly pursued by missionaries in the South Seas
and on the coast of Africa, — a system which, beginning
by overthrowing all old beliefs, and rudely teaching new
truths utterly incomprehensible to the untutored heathen,
has ended, almost without exception, by lowering instead
of elevating his moral state — we have always been ready
to admit that a real Christian mission, conducted in a

174 THE BORNEO MISSION. [1846.

proper spirit, is at once one of the noblest occupations to
which our clergy can devote themselves, and the surest
means under Providence of spreading civilization among
the barbarous tribes. It is because we are convinced
that the Mission shortly about to sail for the shores of
Borneo, and which has awaited the arrival of Mr. Brooke to
receive the benefit of his advice, is as far removed from
the ravings of the illiterate gospellers to which we first
alluded, as it nearly approaches in many points to that
ideal of apostolic teaching, of which the Christian world
after the downfall of the Roman Empire affords so many
bright examples, that we are induced to lay before our
readers the following extracts from an able article on the
Borneo mission, which recently appeared in the ' Colonial
Church Chronicle "'.—Times, October 16th, 1847.

These extracts can be found in the publication alluded
to ; I shall, therefore, confine my observations to those
points to which my attention in the South Seas was par-
ticularly directed. There I could trace four varieties of
Missionaries : one well deserving the thunder of the first
eight lines of the above article. But the one to which 1
will especially allude is of the Williams school, alluded
to in vol. ii. p. 17 of the 'Voyage of the Sulphur',
Raratonga, " It is pleasing to witness the influence Mr.
Buzacott has acquired ; not the servile fear of the Sand-
wich Islanders, but an honest, warm-hearted attachment.
He is a pattern for Missionaries. They prove their
superiority by their ability to instruct others, and they
leave behind them lasting monuments of their utility, in
the increased civilization and happiness of the people."

These remarks recur to me on perusing the observations

1846.] CLERGYMEN APPOINTED. 175

extracted from the pamphlet of the Rev. C. D. Brereton.
" If a case of misery ever called for help, it is here ; and
the act of humanity which redeems the Dyak race from
then- unparalleled wretchednes, will open a path for Reli-
gion and for commerce, which may in future repay the
charity which ought to seek no remuneration.

" Three clergymen, the Rev. F. T. M'c Dougall, W.
B. Wright and Mr. Montgomery, have been appointed ;
it is anticipated that great benefit, in regard to the object
of the mission, will be derived from the medical know-
ledge of Mr. Me' Dougall, who is a member of the
College of Surgeons, and was, before he entered into
Holy Orders, Demonstrator of Anatomy in King's College,
London. He will be prepared to avail himself of any
opportunities that may offer of conciliating in this way
the good will of the natives, and conferring upon them
those temporal benefits which may lead the way to the
communication of spiritual knowledge."

I have had the pleasure of being introduced to Mr.
M'c Dougall, and cannot but cordially congratulate Mr.
Brooke on carrying out with him such a specimen of a
thoroughly useful man. The abilities and handy craft of
Mr. M'c Dougall will force themselves readily with the
natives ; for untutored as they are, there is a peculiar
neatness and adaptation in all that belongs to them, even
in their carriage, which evinces a little more intellect than
is generally assigned to them. The Dyak is a dandy sui
generis, and upon everything they use, or fabricate, taste
is impressed. But I would still adhere to Mr. Brooke's
advice : " Let our motto be, Create no jealously ". Ad-
vance is certain, guided by prudence, but distrust of

176 MR. BROOKE'S MOTIVES. [1846.

motives resulting from ignorance on their part, may cause
difficulties not easily removed. During my first visit to
Mr. Brooke, at Sarawak, in 1843, he very kindly lent
me for perusal several papers, penned in 1838, connected
with his original intentions in taking a voyage to the
Eastern Archipelago, and as they bear, in a most remark-
able manner upon our present relations in Borneo, as
well as the mission in question, I now, with his permis-
sion, introduce them.

" Whatever difference of opinion may exist, or what-
ever degree of credit may be due to the views which 1
have recommended, there can be no doubt of the future
advance of our commercial interests in the Archipelago,
and a previous acquaintance will therefore greatly facili-
tate the result, and must, in all probability, tend to a
more just appreciation of these highly interesting
countries; for when public attention be once aroused,
and a stimulus given to inquiry, it cannot fail in fully
developing the resources, and exhausting the mine which
has hitherto been left to the weak and casual efforts of
individual assertion. It has been remarked by Mr.
Farquhar, that the indifference of the British Govern-
ment must have originated solely from the want of infor-
mation, or incorrectness of knowledge, since it is not im-
probable, that the riches of Sumatra and Borneo are
equal to those of Brazil and New Spain. The lapse of
years has by no means weakened the force of this obser-
vation, for Borneo, Celebes, and, indeed, the greater
portion of these islands are still unknown, and the Go-
vernment is no less indifferent now to these countries,
equal in riches, and superior in commercial advantages,
to the New World.

1846.] SLAVERY IN THE EAST. 177

The apathy of two centuries still reigns supreme with
the enlightened people of England, as well as their Go-
vernment, and whilst they willingly make expensive
efforts favourable to science, commerce, or Christianity in
other quarters, the locality which eminently combines
these three objects is alone neglected and alone uncared
for. It has unfortunately been the fate of our Indian
possessions to have laboured under the prejudice and
contempt of a large portion of the well-bred community,
for whilst the folly of fashion requires an acquaintance
with the deserts of Africa, and a most ardent thirst for a
knowledge of the usages of Timbuctoo, it, at the same
time, justifies the most profound ignorance of all matters
connected with the Government and Geography of our
vast possessions in Hindostan.

" The Indian Archipelago has fully shared this neglect,
for even the tender philanthropy of the present day,
which originates such multifarious schemes for the ame-
lioration of doubtful evils, and which shudders at the
prolongation of apprenticeship in the west, for a single
year, is blind to the existence of slavery in its worst and
most exaggerated form, in the east. Not a single pro-
spectus is spread abroad, not a single voice upraised in
Exeter Hall to relieve the darkness of Paganism and the
horrors of the slave trade ! Whilst the trumpet tongue
of many an orator excites thousands to the rational and
charitable object of converting the Jews, and reclaiming
gypsies, whilst the admirable exertions of missionary
enterprise in the Austral climes of the Pacific, have
invested them with worldly power, as well as religious
influence, whilst the benevolent plans of the New

VOL. n. N

178 TAKE LEAVE OF MR. BROOKE. [1846.

Zealand Association contemplate the protection of the
natives by the acquisition of their territory, whilst we ad-
mire this torrent of devotional and philosophical exertion,
we cannot help deploring that the zeal and attention of
the leaders of these charitable crusades have never been
directed to the countries under consideration. These
unhappy countries have failed to rouse attention or excite
commiseration, and as they sink lower and lower they
afford a striking proof how civilization may be crushed,
and how the fairest and richest lands under the sun may
become degraded and brutalized by a continuous course
of oppression and misrule. It is under these circum-
stances I have considered that individual exertions may
be usefully applied to rouse the zeal of slumbering phi-
lanthropy, and lead the way to an increased knowledge
of the Indian Archipelago."

These were the remarks of Mr. Brooke in 1838. Since
that period great and important events, as regards Borneo,
have occurred to change these sentiments ; all, and even
more than he then contemplated, has gradually been
brought to pass, and we have not only to hail, through
his agency, and extraordinary tact and perseverance, the
British colours, and a British colony planted in Borneo,
but also to congratulate him on the thorough success of
his long cherished views of the improvement of his Dyak
allies, through missionary agency. I now take my leave
of Borneo, earnestly wishing Mr. Brooke and his terri-
tories (to which I trust Borneo Proper may eventually be
added, with the full recognition of this estimable indivi-
dual as Sultan) all the success which his most sanguine
desires can hope for.

1846.] ARRIVE AT SINGAPORE. 179

Passing Tanjong Api and the St. Pierre Islands, we
were again making fair progress towards Singapore, but
on the 14th, had only reached the vicinity of Barren
Island, when calms again delayed. This afforded me an
opportunity of fixing its position, and of procuring quan-
tities of the eggs of Tern, and other marine birds, with
which it abounded. Its position was determined to be
in Lat. 1° 32' 22" N., Long. 106° 22' 18" E.

On the 17th of May our provisions had run so short,
bread being entirely exhausted, and light airs still pre-
vailing, that I deemed it prudent to despatch our barges
ahead to Singapore ; they quitted us on the morning of
the 18th, about 9, A.M. On the 20th, aided by favour-
able flaws of wind, we were able to creep into the Straits,
and about 10, A.M., perceived the barges, as well as the
pinnace, of H.M.S. 'Hazard' approaching, when calm
compelled us to drop our kedge. About 2, P.M., the ship
anchored in the roads of Singapore, where we found
H.M.S. 'Hazard'. Orders for our return to England
awaited our arrival with instructions to examine the
Cargados Garajos on our homeward voyage. Later in-
structions from the Commander-in- Chief, who had arrived
at Penang, delayed us until his appearance.

Singapore, as regards its local advantages, has under-
gone considerable improvement since I first became ac-
quainted with it, under the government of Mr. Bonham,
in 1840. The lines of streets, then only marked out by
slight poles with rags, or causeways, or embankments,
inclosing certain portions of barely cleared marsh, were
now finished, solid ground filled in in many spots,
and blocks of houses had been erected. The river-lines

N 2

180 CHANGE IN AFFAIRS. [1846.

had been completed in stone, good roads formed, and
several substantial and well-designed bridges spanned the
stream at various points. In spite, however, of these
improvements, due to the energetic mind of Mr. Bonham,
the former Governor, and who was deservedly a great
favourite with all classes, the place itself had lost much
of its interest, as well as attractions. The present excel-
lent Governor, Colonel Butterworth, was equally esteemed;
but the changes which had necessarily occurred in the
mercantile prosperity of the place, between the periods
alluded to, had now materially diminished the society, as
well as, by the transfer of much of the capital to Hong-
Kong, the means of supporting the marked hospitality
which we experienced at the former period. Singapore, as
we now found it, deprived of its worthy Governor, absent at
Penang, was dull indeed ; even the bustle consequent upon
the crowded anchorage, where European and Chinese craft
seemed to shut out the town from the passing voyager,
was now considerably changed. Very few Junks (in
comparison to the date alluded to) now visit Singapore.
The Chinese find it more convenient, as well as to their
advantage, to exchange their cargoes at the nearer mart
of Hong-Kong, and thus avoid the dangers of the China
Sea. Still, dull as it was, commercially, it was hailed by
our crew as a most acceptable change after our solitary
cruize since quitting the lively scenes of Manila. As
regarded excitement, or "Life", in the lower classes,
the same din prevailed ; offers of all kinds were eagerly
pressed. Dubashes for supplies ; others with cards for
the hotels ; dealers in marine stores, from a pot of jelly
to a pot of blacking, anchor, or guns. Chinese tailors

1846J JUGGLERS. 181

and shoe-makers using every artifice to attract, and
willing to suit your fancy, even to following up minutely
the defects or repairs which they may discover in former
garments, which they invariably ask for as muster (or
pattern). Upon either quarter of the vessel, may be
noticed the Bengalese Bumboatmen, each twisting him-
self into all manner of Salaams, and coaxing motions, and
into the most humble postures in order to ingratiate
himself, and obtain a preference from the First Lieu-
tenant, the de facto ruling power in port. Lying a
little further out, may be noticed the more insinuating
Indian juggler, equally humble in forms and attitudes,
but not less eager in his vocation, asking almost by the
changes of his countenance (colour excepted) permission to
delight the crew by sleight of hand exhibitions, tricks with
live snakes (Cobra de Capella), or, as expressed by one of
the crew, "obtaining soundings in his throat," by an obtuse
iron spit, which he is pleased to denominate a sword. The
duties of refit over, liberty is granted, by watches, or por-
tions of the crew, and now little does the prosperity of the
place trouble the brain of the mischief-loving tar. Being
duly togged out for the shore, in his best white trousers,
and neatly worked shirt, set off by a flowing Barcelona,
and natty straw hat, with a length of black streaming rib-
bon, or pendant, which designates him a bond fide man-of-
war's man, he steps upon the gangway, eyeing the boat-
men pressing around for fares. Jack's mind is soon
made up, Jbut he likes to tantalize them. Like the rail-
way traveller, little does he dream of security, it must be
express with him also. The lightest and fastest are the
tambangs, which are very elegant little canoes, gene-

182 LANDING OF THE CREW. [1846.

rally impelled by two, or four, lank, but clean-built, and
powerful Malays. These urge their claims for preference,
exclaiming, "Two man boat, Sar?" " Tour man boat,
Sar ? " or, " Pull like debbel, Sar ! " This last is sure to fix
the taste, and one or two of our heroes may be seen with
the leg stretched out, with all imaginable importance,
bounding over the glassy wave, until he is landed in the
creek, for Jack does not admire shooting his craft on the
beach, anywhere in the vicinity of the men-of-war's
boats. Very shortly after landing, it is evident that some
ship's crew is on liberty ; horses are seen in rapid motion,
some without riders, riders without hats, but all bearing
a decided disposition for fun, except the nags, which
rather seem to eye between fear and astonishment the
larkish bipeds, who rig and unrig them according to their
notions, and from whom they would probably bolt if
further from the town. Others, of the more sober cast,
will be found grouped together in one horse Palanquins,
but which, upon close examination, will be found plenti-
fully stored with what Jack terms his needful ballast,
that bane of English seamen, spirits.

It is strange, that in the present advanced state of
general improvement amongst our seamen, this old
relic of the war pranks still maintains its force. We do
not notice it amongst the French, Dutch, Spanish, or
Americans, although in this latter service many of their
seamen are English. Nor does any influence of Captain
or Officers seem to change the disposition. In many
cases which I have noticed, there will be found a shore
companion, picked up at one of the houses where seamen
resort, whose business, doubtless, it is, to favour this pro-

1846.] DIVISION OF THE TOWN. 183

pensity, possibly to propose it, for his own enjoyment in
the first instance, and the interest of the house-keeper,
in the second. A seaman once in the power of one
of these wretches, is seldom permitted to recover his
senses until he is thoroughly fleeced ; when, probably,
his term of leave far expired," he becomes an absentee,
and is then, from fear of punishment, seduced to desert ;
even if returned to the ship by the police, his tale is not
listened to, and he becomes a marked man. This was not
the case in the ' Samarang ', but it has grieved me sorely
to have occasion to root out some of my men, whose
conduct, generally, on board, deserved my approbation,
from some of these dens, and to be compelled to charge
against their pay the sums due for their apprehension.*

The town of Singapore may be considered as separated
into three distinct divisions. The western, Chinese;
central, English ; and eastern, Malay (or Kling, Chinese,
and Malay). The western, is separated by the stream,
and although it contains the counting-houses and stores
of the English merchants, still their private habitations
are mostly in the central division. The Chinese princi-
pally occupy, and reside in, the western division, and
here may be procured any article desired, either from
Europe, India, or China. Any article of which a pattern
can be produced, will be imitated by the Chinese.
Nothing is considered by them beyond their capacity, they
will make the effort, and in general succeed in a mar-
vellous manner. Care, however, must be taken, to point
out any defects, or they will most assuredly be copied.

* Apprehension must be paid for, and the pay of the seamen
stopped, II. straggling, and 31. desertion.

184 PIRATE ARMS. [1846.

The central portion of the town is entirely set apart for
public offices, church, official and private residences, and
hotels, reserving ample space between the sea and the
houses for parade, and carriage drives, which, in 1840,
was generally well attended, between the hours of five and
seven. On the east, are the shops of the Kliugs and
Malays. This part of Singapore has been very much
improved of late, and several excellent bridges now ren-
der the villages, on the opposite side of the stream, more
accessible, having rescued them, in a considerable degree,
from the filthy condition, which formerly prevailed there.
The eye is naturally attracted to the general fabrication
of arms in this region, and to those conversant in the exa-
mination of the Pirate boats of these seas, the question na-
turally suggests itself : Are these swords, parangs, knives,
muskets, bell-mouthed blunderbusses, &c., intended for
Pirates? There cannot be the slightest hesitation in
the reply : They are ; and the Pirate, " emissary prahu,"
her Nakoda and crew, are gazing on you, dressed in
gaudy attire, and only await their chance of evading- the
gun boats, to rejoin their associates, with fresh supplies
of arms and ammunition. The question then arises :
How many gun, or guard, boats watch this illicit trade ?
I wish I could safely say one; I may say one occa-
sionally. A very simple ruse will call for her presence
westerly, or easterly, as the case may be, and these sup-
plies pass unheeded. So long as we continue to furnish
the means, so long may we expect Piracy to continue.
Cut off these supplies, these sinews, and it will receive
its heaviest blow.

The utter want of defence against the smallest cruizer,

1846.] HORSBURGH LIGHTHOUSE. 185

which an enemy might send to levy contributions on
Singapore, or to capture the merchantmen laden with most
valuable cargoes, has, at length, excited attention, and
plans and estimates have, I believe, been forwarded to
the proper department, at the India house, there to
remain and be debated upon ; during which delay, this
place may be wrested from us by the first state which
may happen to make war. It is a matter worthy of the
serious interference of our Government. Is it a procrasti-
nation in order to avoid the present expence, which will
fall eventually, when the colony does, upon the British
Government ; and is the valuable property now stored
there, to be thus risked ? These are important questions,
which, I trust, may speedily receive satisfactory attention.
The question where the lighthouse (to be termed the
Horsburgh Testimonial) should be placed, was mooted
so far back as July, 1844, by a letter from the Governor
requesting my opinion. I was subsequently informed
that my suggestion of placing it upon the Romania
Islands, had been approved by the proper authorities, and
the necessary instructions to furnish estimates, had been
issued. By reference to a small pamphlet, by Mr. Alex.
Gordon, Civil Engineer, relative to lighthouses constructed
of iron, I find it there stated, " that the estimated ex-
pense, by the Superintending Engineer at Singapore, for
the masonry alone, amounted to 15,000/., whereas, one
of iron could be delivered, and erected at Singapore, at
the cost of 3,000/. ; yet by a late notice in one of the
Singapore papers, the probable erection of a lighthouse on
Pedra Branca is alluded to."

The attention of Government has been " from time to
time ", commencing, I believe, as far back as the year

186 NEW HARBOUR. [1846.

1829, turned towards the occupation of Pulo Brani* or
Gage Island, as a naval or coal depot, and as my opinion
was, on this occasion, invited, I shall here insert it.

With regard to New Harbour, and the proposed site
for a coal depot on Pulo Brani (or Gage Island) I would
most strenuously advise, under any circumstances, peace
or war, adopting that position for coaling both the naval
as well as packet service. I look beyond the mere posi-
tion and facilities for coaling. I view it as a stride, not
only to the opening, but also to the free navigation, of
that channel, and, ultimately, to \heprobable formation of
a new town and port for Singapore. In the event of dis-
tress, this position affords refuge; secure facilities for
grounding, or repairing defects, in many cases, without
lightening, either to naval or merchant shipping.

In order to secure this, it will be necessary to form a
large area of level ground, for the purpose of landing
stores, housing crews, &c. Should any serious accident
occur to any of our larger ships, in no other position
could she be accommodated, and what is also very im-
portant, no other site could be selected so well adapted
to ensure the preservation of discipline, if compelled to
land the crew.

Upon a cursory examination of the chart of this chan-
nel (constructed by Mr. Thompson, in 1842) I observe,
" that a safe and short channel would be available by
night or day, provided a light is established on the hill
above 'the Malay village'. That leading mark, seen
clear of the point of Blakan Mati, would bring a steamer,
from the fairway fork (to either channel) into New Har-
bour, by a direct course of twelve miles."
* Literally Loadstone Island.

1846.] LEAVE SINGAPORE. 187

The mails could be landed at " the Malay village ", and
would reach the post-office in less time than a gig from
the sea anchorage. The distance, by the channel now in
use would be twenty miles ! and without guide of any
description.

Coming from the eastward, the proposed light would
lead a vessel, under very mediocre pilotage, into New
Harbour, a torch at the buoy (by previous signal from
the steamer) leading her to moorings. This same light,
screened by Tanjong Batu, would, independent of that
suggested on Romania Island, lead vessels moving east-
terly, or westerly, clear of the Johore bank, and ensure
their reaching the roads safely at night, instead of an-
choring, and losing breeze until daylight.

On the 14th the ' Agincourt ', with the Admiral, an-
chored, and on the 18th, the affairs of Borneo not
requiring our detention, we took leave of Singapore,
Lieut. Ogle, of the ' Royalist ' joining the ' Samarang ',
and that vessel being returned for the service of the
station. Our course down the China Sea was free from
any remarkable incident, until the 27th, when being
much baffled by variable winds and currents we stood
over under the Island of Billiton, in the hope of avoiding
some portion of the current. On the morning of the
28th, being close under Billiton, we found the current
still driving us fast to leeward, and having passed close to
an island not placed in the charts, anchored near it to
avoid change of tide, and obtain Observations for seeming
its position. These were completed before the evening,
and on embarking, as I still found the current strong,
orders were given to weigh about midnight, our greatest

188 DANGEROUS SITUATION. [1846.

advantage being gained by night, when the breeze is
usually stronger, and favours, by blowing off shore. Im-
mediately after weighing, and directing her to be steered
N.E., that being the opposite course to that by which
she entered, she struck, and remained fixed. All efforts
to move her that night were ineffectual, but as I well knew
that force must yield to stratagem, I let her He quietly
in the bed she had settled in, until daylight, when we
found her completely hampered in every direction by
rocks, rising in many spots nearly to the water's edge,
any exertion of force would have injured her. How she
could have reached this position, unseen during the day,
and in so short a period, was incomprehensible. Yet
there she was, and our attention had now to be directed
to discover where she entered, and how she was to be
extricated. My thoughts instantly reverted to the wreck
of H.M.S. 'Alceste5 but a few miles from this spot.
But we were more fortunate, not only had we a better
bed, but a very convenient little island within musket
shot, and no chance of losing any article of provision
or ammunition. The very transparency of the water,
and the perfect clearness with which every object was
visible, was, in itself, delusive, furnishing no guide to
the depth, which was only to be discovered by probing
with a pole. By 4 o'clock that evening, the necessary
arrangements were made. The guns were put into the
remaining barge (one barge and two gigs, with other
stores, being left behind at Singapore for the squadron)
and the spare chain cables paid overboard. It was origi-
nally intended to land the guns upon the steep part of
the reef projecting from the island, and to recover them

1846.] ESCAPE INTO DEEP WATER. 189

when afloat. Fortunately, this was found to be attended
with difficulty, and deferred until we tried what could
be done by our first heave. This she obeyed, and before
six was riding safely in six fathoms, and guns re-embarked,
the depths between our bows and anchors varying from
seven to eleven fathoms. Our misfortunes were not
ended, a breeze came on, the anchor came home, the
hawsers stretched, and she again grounded abaft the
main mast, and in spite of all our efforts hung, striking
heavily and in a manner, most distressing to all on
board. About midnight she ceased to strike, having
settled on the reef. Dawn found us again at work ; the
guns were slung to the breeching hawser, at distances
admitting of heaving each up separately, and having
ascertained that there was deep water on the outer side
of the reef, on our starboard bilge, the guns were safely
deposited, in order for recovery, on this reef. Other
measures being then adopted for heaving off, she was
again hove out in deep water, at 2, P.M., the anchors
dropped afresh, and the ship being veered alongside the
reef, with steadying hawsers to keep her clear, the guns
were re-embarked, and the ship in a condition to move
before sunset. In order to avoid farther possibility of
misfortune, warps were laid out at long ranges, and the
ship cautiously moved beyond her cable strain, before
lifting an anchor from its hold, and one kept barely atrip,
during the process of warping. Having gained a fair
distance, and the sounding boats assuring us of an escape,
sail was rapidly made, and we soon took leave of this
unpleasant region, deeming ourselves most fortunate in
making our escape. After such toils, all hands were much

190 PIGEON ISLAND. [1846.

fatigued, and considering ourselves perfectly beyond fur-
ther danger, were asleep, save the watch and the ship,
moving gaily to the N.E., in twenty fathoms, at the rate
of seven knots. About half an hour after midnight, a
crash, which awakened even those most fatigued, gave
warning that we were again in disaster. All hands were
on deck in an instant, but in the existing darkness no
one knew where the danger lay. The sails were napping,
but the ship was still afloat ; throwing all back, she flew
astern nearly as fast as she had gone ahead, and allowing
her to continue at this play, until the wind filled the head
sails, the yards were braced forward, and her head
directed to the N.W., when having recovered soundings
of twenty fathoms she was anchored for the night. At
daylight she was found to be N. 20 E., seven miles from
our former danger.

The island near which we struck, received the name
of Pigeon Island, its northern extremity is situated in 2°
37' 20" S., Long. 108° 18' E. The ship did not sustain
any damage, that we could discover, nor did she lose any
stores in the course of these disasters. During the in-
terval of the two groundings, to the period of being at
secure anchorage, twenty-two hours elapsed. All the
spars were turned overboard, and rafted; seven guns
twice turned out, and recovered, and ship otherwise put
into confusion. At the thirtieth hour, the ship was in a
condition to move, and ready for any service. I never
saw a ship's company behave better, nor did they appear
to feel the exertion beyond that of an ordinary " hard
day's work." These incidents serve to instruct the junior
officers, and put them upon their resources, but we had

1846.] CARIMATA CHANNEL. 191

enough of these matters, and began to look forward with
more anxiety to restoring her to her old moorings in Ports-
mouth Harbour. The entire region about the Carimata
Channel requires a searching investigation ; on both sides
we had reason to doubt the accuracy of the existing charts,
passing over shoals, and noticing sand banks not exhi-
bited on the charts.

Having worked through this channel, we found our-
selves, on the morning of the 8th of July, near Pulo
Baby, the wind fair, but weather very thick, and noticing
a ship at anchor waiting for finer weather, we followed
her example. Here we caught a glimpse of the land,
weighed the following morning, and keeping the Java
coast aboard, ran for the Strait. About 4, P.M., noticing
strong ripples off one of the points, the anchor was let go,
in seven fathoms, on a rocky ledge not laid down. The
impetus of the ship, added to a current of 3f knots,
tried the strength of anchor * and cable. During our
detention here, we examined the neighbourhood of the
Button Rock, for a shoal off the western side. We
found it to have as little as 2f fathoms, but the rapidity
of the current probably prevented the lead from showing
less ; nevertheless, it was pretty well probed by oars at
twelve feet, without finding rock. Weighing from this
position, we dropped down to Anjer, where we anchored
that evening. On paying my respects to the Governor,
he tendered every possible civility, and as I was far from
well, he wished me to take up my quarters on shore.
The shortness of our stay rendering this scarcely worth
the trouble, he most kindly directed milk, and other

* One of Porter's 30 cwt., it was bent by this extraordinary strain,
but not injured.

192 ANJER. [1846.

comforts, to be sent daily. A short ramble into the
country immediately within the town, enabled me to
observe the gardens and farms of the inhabitants, which
differ little from those in the neighbourhood of Singapore,
the cultivation in general being conducted by a race par-
taking, apparently, of the Malay and Chinese. The
garden produce of the immediate neighbourhood is chiefly
intended for the supply of passing vessels, with which
they generally drive a very lucrative trade. Their sup-
plies consist chiefly of ducks, fowls, geese, and tropical
vegetables. These boats will frequently quit Anjer, and
seek a vessel observed in the offing, holding on by her
until she either anchors in the roadstead, or passes by. A
very fair landing-place has been constructed by running
out parallel walls into nine feet water, but still frequent
rollers cut off all communication, and at the most quiet
moments, care must be observed in evading some of the
small curling seas which top at the very moment you
fancy yourself safe within the walls, dashing the boat
against the inner wall, where you may be left grounded
on a ledge of rock, until another friendly wave removes
you beyond.

The Governor, or Resident, having officially requested
an opinion as to the most eligible site for a Lighthouse,
the following reply was sent.

H.M.S. ' Samarang ', Anjer, July, 1846.
Sir,

In reply to your letter relative to the position for a Light-
house at Anjer, I regret that my slight knowledge of the Straits of
Sunda should render me hardly competent to deal as freely with the
subject as its importance demands.

My opinion, however, rests upon two decided positions, viz., the
Cap Island, and the Fourth Point. I do not think the light would be

1846.] KEELING ISLANDS. 193

convenient if placed within these objects — such as in the bay, where
the bamboo erection now is.

I prefer Cap Island : First ; because it would be a safe object to
steer for, coming round Pulo Merak, and avoid Brewer's Shoal:
Secondly ; that coming from the southward, it would lead clear of the
Fourth Point danger. Vessels passing to eastward of Thwart-the-way
at night, would feel confident of being safe from the Stroom Rock,
when that light opened.

Should the light be placed on the Fourth Point, it would also lead
clear of the Stroom Eock. But vessels passing the light would have
to estimate their distance for clearing its reefs. Whereas the Cap may
be passed on either side without danger.

I have examined the Cap Eock, and find, that by clearing off twenty
feet of its surface, material would be found adapted to form a good
masonry platform, on which any structure for a Lighthouse would
find a sufficiently stable foundation.

I am, &c., Sec.,
The Resident, Anjer. EDWARD BELCHEE.

Having completed water and supplies, we took our
departure from Anjer on the evening of the 16th of July,
shaping our course for the Cocos, or Keeling Islands,
where we anchored on the afternoon of the 23rd. Our
sole object here was to obtain Magnetic and Astronomical
Observations, the latter for connecting it with the Car-
gados Garajos. Capt. Ross, the Resident, was absent at
Batavia, we were, however, visited by some of his esta-
blishment, and after the duties of the day were over,
paid a visit to the settlement.

The Keeling Islands, properly so named, appear to
have been discovered in 1008, by Capt. William Keeling,
employed in the service of the East India Company,
amongst the Molucca, or Spice Islands. It was on his

VOL. II. O

194 DIRECTION ISLAND. [1846.

return from this service that these islands were discovered
by him. In 1823, Alexander Hare, an Englishman,
whose pursuits bear a very doubtful character, took pos-
session of the southern Keeling Island, bringing with
him an establishment of Malays, including a seraglio. In
1826 Mr. J. C. Ross, formerly master of a merchant ship,
settled on one of the eastern group, and finding Hare's
Malays in the condition of slaves, countenanced their
desertion of his interests ; their complaint against Hare
being that they were deprived of their women, whom
Hare secluded on a separate island, to which they were
denied access. Hare then resigned to Ross, and quitted
the islands. Since that period affairs appear to have
gone on smoothly, the Malays catching fish, turtle, and
rearing pigs and poultry for the consumption of those
vessels which may touch at these islands. I certainly
expected to find the residence of Capt. Ross, after a lapse
of twenty years, in a decent condition. It presented,
however, little more than such a house as would rapidly
be raised from the timber saved from a wrecked vessel,
and gloomy beyond conception, being completely over-
shadowed by cocoa-nut trees, and, as a natural result,
swarming with mosquitoes. The Malay village was infi-
nitely more inviting. Here we noticed a very rude mill,
in which they were grinding the cocoa-nuts for oil, and
in every direction groups of turtle lately captured. Some
of these were purchased, but the price, considering the
profusion, was rather high. As the Malays did not ven-
ture off to the ship to sell their commodities, I suspect
that the general produce passes through the hands of
Ross's family. The western tongue of Direction Island

1846.] SAILING QUALITIES. 195

is situated in Lat. 10° 5' 31" S., Long. 96° 54' 0" E.,
Var. 1°23'W., Dip. -- 38° 55'.

On the evening of the 24th we took our departure for
Mauritius, or rather, to search for the Brandon Rocks,
reported to have been seen about two degrees to the
eastward of the Cargados Garajos, and in the parallel of
its centre. With a fine brisk trade we rapidly decreased
our distance, at an average of 198 miles per diem, 230
being our longest run. As the ' Samarang ' has always
been classed as one of the slowest ships, and her previous
Captain allowed that she was known to go eleven knots
in a Ty-foong, when she lost her topmasts, it will be ap-
parent, that with all her mishaps, she improved in her old
age. By a standing regulation of the ship, the officers of the
watches inserted the greatest velocity during their watch,
stating the canvas under which the ship was at the time.
If this regulation were adopted in all ships, we should
have a series of facts to determine a vessel's sailing
qualities, instead of trusting to the opinions and recol-
lections of those who have to draw them up " when the
document is required." By the record before me, I per-
ceive that the c Samarang ' was under single reefed top-
sails, royals, port lower, topmast, and topgallant studding-
sails, velocity eleven ; under this canvas the studding-sails
were taken in, and the ship rounded to, to sound. My
nautical readers will therefore understand, that she had
not too much canvas to show her cheek to the breeze.
On the day following, is recorded, " Ship under double-
reefed top-sails, and topgallant-sails, close hauled, 10. G
(carrying sail to clear reefs to leeward). I observe that
courses have been omitted ; they were set. Now if this

o 2

196 ST. BRANDON'S SHOALS. [1846.

be one of the defective ships, what would the new class
be doing ? The late Admiral Hayes, one of the best
seamen, and probably the best builder that we had, ob-
served to me on taking the command of the ' Etna ', in
1830, " My dear sir, never mind her mould ; you can get
the best out of a washing-tub, and no more ; 1 will tell
you what that ship can do; 10 off the wind, 8. 6 close
hauled." He was correct ; nor could we effect more in
the ' Sulphur ' with similar lines and tonnage. A great
deal may be said, and written, about the qualities of diffe-
rent ships, but I perfectly coincide with the opinion of
Admiral Hayes, that where vessels differ but slightly in
their forms they may easily be made sea-worthy, and
their best sailing elicited, either by the placing, or raking,
of the masts, ballast, or general stowage. So much did
he reckon upon this assertion, that he offered to take the
losing ship where their capabilities at all approached
anything like equality, and make her hold her own, or
conquer her opponent.

On the 5th of August, under strong breezes, and with
an unpleasant sea, we entered upon the limits assigned
to St. Brandon's Shoals, varying, by different authorities,
between 120 and 150 miles easterly from the main body
of the Cargados Garajos. Officers aloft, and the look-out
men at the mast-heads were unable to trace any appear-
ance of reefs, or discoloured water, nor were we able to
obtain soundings with 150 fathoms, in the space between
us and the Cargados.

Our visit to this region, in order to examine this group
was directed in consequence of the wreck of the ship
' Letitia ', which had run upon Frigate Island, owing to

1846.] THE CARGADOS GARAJOS. 197

its being erroneously placed on Horsburgh's chart (about
thirty miles too far easterly) although his directory gave a
longitude nearly approaching to the truth. The ' Tennas-
serim, ' steamer, belonging to the East India Company, had
been directed to visit the Cargados Garajos in search of
the crew, which she found were taken to the Mauritius.
The communication of these facts, through the Government
of Ceylon, where the * Tennasserim ' had reported herself,
caused this enquiry to be made at the instance of the
Home Government.

The Cargados Garajos consist of a coral semilunar
bed, extending in the direction of its western horns,
about N.N.E. twenty miles, and perpendicular from this
chord, curving easterly about nine miles. Off this patch
lie five detached islets, named by the latest surveyors,
under Capt. W. Owen, Albatross Island, North Island,
Siren Island, Pearl Island, and Frigate Island. The
whole of these are included upon a general bank of coral
sand, which has from thirty to thirty-three fathoms as its
outer limit ; the eastern soundings being almost on the
face of the reef, very steep to, and decreasing suddenly
from thirty fathoms to five : so that even in the finest
weather, with a smooth sea, that side of the island should
be cautiously approached, or, more correctly, entirely
avoided.

Upon the main coral patch are situated the three islets
Etablissement, L'Avocare and Coco, which latter is upon
the extreme south. It is possible that these patches were
formerly connected by sand banks, or fine coral debris,
but the sea appears to have cut channels between them,
at the present day, and even to have separated the great

198 EXAMINATION OF DANGERS. [1846.

patch into two, admitting of a passage carrying three and
a half fathoms at the shoalest point.

This group is supposed to be a continuation, by deep
water soundings, with the Saya de Malha (or Coat of Mail)
bank, also very dangerous, and which, by the frequent
reports of recent navigators, appears to merit a closer
examination, and to be more correctly inserted upon the
charts. The name of this latter danger is satisfactorily
traced to be of Spanish derivation, but of Cargados
Garajos we have no clue. The term Rocks of St. Brandon
has been applied by the French, and this has probably
given rise to the reports of the Brandon Rocks having
been lately seen, as in reply to questions as to the existence
of the St. Brandon rocks at Mauritius, the reply would
certainly be in the affirmative, understanding the question
to apply to the Cargados Garajos.

But to proceed with our examination. The prevailing
strong breezes, or rather gales, which prevailed, rendered
any attempts at working to windward, in order to search
for any banks which might extend easterly, towards the
reported, or suspected, rocks of St. Brandon, if not im-
possible, at least impolitic. The very question of the
accurate meridian distance between the Keelings, this
group and Mauritius, would materially depend upon the
rates of our Chronometers, and those could not be relied
on if the ship attempted working through heavy seas
under close-reefed top-sails. Even under the lee of the
islands, in comparatively smooth water, this was un-
pleasant.

At noon on the 6th we rounded the extreme of the coral
belt extending off the southern islet, called Coco Island,

1846.] L'AVOCARE. 199

which derives its name from having been formerly covered
with these trees, but of which only two in a perishing
state remain, almost in derision of the appellation. On
the eastern edge of the breakers still remains the hull of
a vessel entire, with her bow-sprit standing, and anchors
on the reef, showing that though the waves of this region
are too powerful to admit of extricating a vessel which
may strike on that side, still they do not rise sufficiently
high to injure her when once set in upon the reef. We
subsequently learned that the vessel had been wrecked at
this spot more than fifteen years since.

Immediately after we hauled up under the lee of the
islets and sand-banks, our attention was directed to secure
terra firma, or some sheltered spot for our observations.
We soon noticed a schooner anchored, well to the east-
ward, and, by reference to our charts, within the portion
of sand, dry at low water, at least four miles ! As we
met with no difficulty beyond coral knolls, easily avoided
by a sharp look out from aloft, we continued plying to
windward, until 4 o'clock, when the ' Samarang ' was
anchored four miles within the limit of this ci (levant sand-
bank, in three-and-a-half fathoms, close to the schooner,
which proved to be a fishing vessel from Mauritius. There
is no sand-bank, therefore, and its insertion in the charts
is highly dangerous. Such an error * in the delineation of
these dangers, sufficiently intricate in themselves, is inju-
dicious, as a vessel, finding herself within the reefs, might,
after slight damage upon some of the knolls by night,
escape, and to prevent further injury, or loss, endeavour

* Possibly intended for sand occasionally covered by water.

200 VERRONGE. [1846.

to beach upon the supposed sandy flats, which, although
apparent on the southern portions of the island, are no-
where to be hit, being invariably barred, at some distance,
by girdles of coral, generally very " steep to."

The island off which we anchored, was called Avocare,
and is at present the principal fishing station ; the resident
fishermen consisting of fourteen coloured people of Mau-
ritius, and a head man, a half-caste of Seychelles ; the
whole establishment, including the schooner, belonging to
Mr. Chelin of Seychelles, now of Mauritius, who for-
merly conducted the business in person. They were
hutted in the most miserable style upon the island, and
started daily in the morning in two whale boats, with
hooks and lines, returning at about 4 o'clock in the after-
noon, with about an average take of forty to fifty fish per
man, weighing, when cleaned, about 2 cwt.

Another small islet, called Verronge, is situated about
five miles southerly, where they have a hut for temporary
refuge, and Etablissement, the northern Cocoa-nut Island,
which formerly possessed a respectable residence, com-
pletes their haunts upon this group. When the1 schooner
has taken on board the fish which is cured, she starts for
Mauritius, leaving the fourteen and Captain of them be-
hind, to complete fresh stock by the period of her return.
Our crew very soon tried their luck at fishing, and during
our stay they feasted as long as they could obtain facility
for cooking in the galley, which was incessantly crowded
by more cooks than our establishment warranted.*

* Fortunately the wreck of the 'Letitia' furnished them with
adequate fuel, or this indulgence might, from necessity, have been
cramped.

1846.] ETABLISSEMENT. 201

We were fortunate in having selected this spot, as
strong breezes and unpleasant weather immediately fol-
lowed ; taking advantage of a favourable lull we ran to
leeward, to Frigate Island, where the wreck of the
' Letitia ' still remained. We succeeded in effecting a
landing, and in erecting tents, to secure this as a principal
position, but so powerful was the breeze, and so much
did the surf aid it in causing the island to vibrate, that
at this period I was unable to obtain any satisfactory ob-
servations. We here noticed the remains of the huts of
the crew, and the grave of the Captain, who was drowned
in the attempt to recover money or goods from the vessel.
The whole island is perforated by rats and marine birds,
particularly a large species of sooty Procettaria, which
burrows under the light sand, loosely covered by a net-
work of a species of Samphire. Tern of four kinds were
very numerous, one small and of a beautiful silvery hue,
and some thousands of their eggs collected by the party
left in charge of the tents, were distributed to the crew,
and were nearly equal in flavour to those of .the Plover.

We then visited Etablissement, where we found fair
landing, and succeeded in obtaining satisfactory observa-
tions ; subsequently, I made an attempt on the lee side of
North Island, which stands clear off the main group, and
is exposed to the full eastern sea. Here we very narrowly
escaped the loss of gig, as well as instruments, but by
the spirited conduct of her crew, she was extricated, at the
very moment when I feared she was beyond the chance
of rescue.

Albatross Island, the northernmost of the group, was
then approached, under its lee, but no possibility offered

202 coco PLANTS. [1846.

of landing without greater danger, we therefore bore
away to make another attempt on Frigate Island, and to
withdraw our party, a service not easily effected.

Ultimately, we obtained excellent observations on Coco
Island, and having collected a number of young Coco
plants at the Keelings, for the purpose of transferring a
better plant here, we left at Frigate,* and this latter
station, two plantations, the fruit of which will, I trust,
if not destroyed by the fishermen, prove of value to any
poor creature who may meet with misfortune at these
spots. Formerly these fruit trees abounded sufficiently to
support the inhabitants, and furnish oil, but gales, added
to the desire of gain, and the uncontrolled appetites of
the blacks, have destroyed the trees for the sake of their
cabbage, or head shoots. These trees are not so readily
reared as imagined ; it is always attended with risk and
great care. It is so throughout the Pacific, and all persons
who form plantations, free from exposure to strong sea
winds, are well aware of this difficulty. So it proved with
these islets ; the instant they began to thin, to lose their
mutual support, and the breeze to play strongly through
them, so soon did they fail, and those which now remain,
inclined at a large angle from the prevailing breeze, seem
almost to quail under it.

These are among the facts against the formation of
islands in the present day. My experience has taught
me that all coral islands are decreasing, and the sea cut-
ting channels through them. May not this be assumed

* As fresh water was found at Frigate Island they will probably
thrive, as I planted them in the hollow, protected for some years from
the breeze.

1846.] coco ISLAND. 203

at this group ? By the survey, by the late Capt. Mudge,
under Capt. Owen, in 1825, unnoticed by Horsburgh,
in 1841, the sand-banks alluded to may have been above
water, we have many instances of greater alterations;
and viewing the decided changes recorded, and visible,
here, I have strong suspicions that this talented officer
was correct ; but that the sea has cut its way through,
even to severing the main island in two, and leaving a
channel through which the ' Samarang ' could pass.

Every inquiry was made of the Captain of the resident
fishermen as to the existence of St. Brandon's Ilocks.
He derisively exclaimed, " Oh yes ; these are the rocks
of St. Brandon ; every white stone you notice above water
is termed a St. Brandon." This Captain, or principal, (a
French half-caste of Seychelles) assured me, that he has
navigated these seas for the last twenty-six years, and in
the fine season has been much employed seeking the
hawk's-bill turtle (in the schooner) to windward, beyond
the limits I mentioned, and that no shoal was ever seen
or believed by them to exist in that direction. I have
little doubt, therefore, that the report of their existence
originated in the customary habit of these fishermen, on
their visits to Mauritius, of alluding to the Cargados,
under the appellation, which they invariably use, of
St. Brandon.

Water fit to drink we were not able to procure ; I
tasted some on L'Avocare, but it was brackish. The
fishermen stated that they obtained their supply from
Coco Island ; we dug in vain, but were afterwards in-
formed that it was on the Sand Island (com minuted
coral) immediately to the northward of Coco Island.

204 ARRIVE AT MAURITIUS. [1846.

The position of Coco Island was determined to be in
Lat. 16° 48' 50" S., Long. 59° 81' 48" E., Dip. — 50°
11'. Var. 7° 54' 12" W.

Our duties having been completed, we were heartily
rejoiced at taking leave of this very uninteresting group.
Our detention here had been attended with most harassing
duties, crew constantly wet, landing on the detached
islands difficult, as well as hazardous, and nothing but
being close under the lee prevented our being constantly
under close-reefed top-sails, and experiencing very un-
pleasant weather.

As the great object at present was to perfect our
Meridian distance, all sail was carried to reach the Mau-
ritius, which we made on the 24th, and running between
the Gunner's Quoin and the northern point of the island,
soon sighted the Mag of Rear Admiral Dacres (the Com-
mander-in-Chief at the Cape station) flying on board
H.M.S. ' President '. Our number made, and permission
requested to enter the harbour, the steamer shortly took
us in tow, and by 5 o'clock, we were safely moored
within the ' President ', with the ' Snake ', Captain Brown,
on our beam.

205

CHAPTER XV.

MAUEITIUS TO ENGLAND.

Leave Mauritius — Pass Island of Bourbon — Cape of Good Hope —
Simon's Bay — Illness of Lieut. Roberton — Left at sick quarters
— He-survey of Table Bay — Proposed construction of a Break-
water— St. Helena — Terrific consequences of the rollers — Ascen-
sion Island — Excitement on nearing home — Violent Gale — Nar-
row escape of the ship — Reach Spithead — Ordered to Chatham —
Paid off — Conclusion.

BEING detained at the Mauritius, principally for the pur-
pose of rating our Chronometers, we had more leisure
time than we usually enjoyed in port, and between the
hospitality of the Governor, Sir W. Gomm, of Admiral
Dacres, and our military friends, we enjoyed our visit
extremely. As this island has been fully described by
former voyagers, and my pursuits did not lead me into
the interior, I pass over this spot without any further
allusion.

On the 3rd Sept. we sailed out of the Mauritius, shaping
our course past the Island of Bourbon, for the southern
coast of Africa. Nothing worthy of note occurred until
the 17th, when we made the African coast, and ran into
soundings in the neighbourhood of the Great Fish River,
when we shaped our course alongshore, for Cape Agulhas,

206 MAURITIUS. [1846.

(literally needles, in the Spanish language, but corrupted
by seamen into Lagullas). We noticed several vessels
lying at anchor off Port Elizabeth, and made our number
to one, by the aid of Marryat's Code. We were not at
the time aware of the vicinity of the Governor and
troops to this place, or our course would have been
directed nearer to the shore, and a communication
effected. We were able, however, to discover that our
inside friends were not in enviable berths, as they were
then (nearly calm in shore), rolling most unpleasantly.

At dawn on the morning of the 21st, we found our-
selves becalmed off Cape Agulhas, and being in sound-
ings the first Lieut, apprized me that I had a chance for
fish. I immediately went on deck, and, with my usual
luck, in two hours hooked forty-two fine fish, varying
from six to thirty-six pounds. A very curious fact was
here discovered which saved me a very great portion of
fatigue. I think that we were at the time in thirty
fathoms. This was a long pull (although I had two of
my boats crew ready for the heavy work) but immediately
after taking the first fish, I found that the lead ceased
to descend, as fast as it should do, at five fathoms, and,
upon trying the line, found that the shoal of fish which
swarmed at that depth were too voracious to permit of its
passing below to their brethren beneath. These, and a
few others, taken by those around me, afforded a fresh
meal to the whole crew. Vessels homeward bound,
generally manage to touch upon the tail of this bank ; as
I have taken fish at seventy-six fathoms on it, many a
poor fellow who may be fretting at his hard fate at being
becalmed, may divert his chagrin by treating himself, not

1846.] SHOAL OF FISH. 207

only to the sport of capture, but also to the gratification
of a treat, quite equal to Billingsgate, and more enjoyable,
possibly, for the seventy-six fathom exercise which it
provided. On the night of the 22nd we passed Cape
Hanglip, but mistaking the force of the current, and the
master mistaking the land, we had over-shot our mark ;
and on the morning following, when we thought our-
selves in a position to run with a flowing sheet into
Simon's Bay, had the mortification to discover that we
had rounded the Cape during the night, and the breeze
having failed, were being swept away by the current to
the N.W. Fortunately, we managed to beat back that
night, and on the morning of the 23rd re-passed the Cape,
and dropped our anchor about 5, P.M., in Simon's Bay.

Here I found Capt. Kelly in H.M.S. ' Conway ', and
Commander Radcliffe, of the 'Apollo', troop ship, the latter
vessel had just returned from Port Elizabeth, on the eastern
coast, where she had narrowly escaped shipwreck ; having
parted her cables, and by sheer dint of good sailing, as
well as seamanship, gained her offing, and returned to
this port. The period of our stay was employed in the
examination of Simon's Bay, and construction of its
chart. During the interval which had elapsed since our
quitting this port in 1843, and the present, a Light-
vessel had been established off the Roman Rocks. To
her position, and the general fitness of the vessel for this
service, my attention was directed. Owing to insuffi-
ciency of beam she was not able to display her light at
her mast-head, in any weather which could be termed
fresh. It was therefore lowered half mast. In a gale it
could not be shown above the deck. It must, therefore,

208 LIGHTHOUSE. [1846.

be apparent, to my readers, that the publication to the
nautical world " that a light was exhibited thirty-seven feet
above the level of the sea," was not correct, and that at
the two most important moments, when the value was
required, any judge of distance would be led astray by the
untrue height at which the light was displayed. At the
moment of my visiting the vessel the motion was very un-
pleasant, and, although calm, the grating of the moorings
over the rocks was so alarming, I can hardly imagine that
her crew could possibly obtain rest in blowing weather.
Hovever, custom inures us to worse than this, I have wit-
nessed that fatigue will allow of a sound sleep on &pile
of shot, with twenty-four pounders smartly discharged,
and recoiling within a few feet of the dozer. But this was
not all : the bights of these moorings frequently caught
under the rocks, and unless they yielded, endangered
swamping, and loss of all on board. I was informed, that
twice since her being placed, her moorings (sufficiently
strong for a frigate, and now adapted to a vessel about
100 tons) had been replaced, in consequence of injury
from chafing over the rocks.

I cannot, therefore, take leave of this subject without
the following observations. I think, that in all cases
where light-vessels are intended to be placed, a very severe
scrutiny should precede their adoption ; not simply as to
the mere requirements of the port, but also to the most
serious consequences which its partial, or total, failure may
entail ; not only upon our own ships of war and merchant-
men, but also upon those of foreigners, who upon reading
the official notification that a light is displayed at thirty-
seven feet above the level of the sea, run boldly upon the

1846.] FLOATING LIGHT. 209

calculation for distance resulting to that height, when truly,
at the moment of danger, and when most imperatively
called for, it is only twelve, and that, in all probability,
partially obscured by the pitching of the vessel. The
incapacity of the vessel, in the first instance, to sustain
the lanthorn aloft in bad weather, is the first deceptive
evil; the chance of breaking adrift, swamping, or de-
struction, the second.

Referring to the severe scrutiny I have suggested, I
think, that before the adoption of any floating light, it
should be imperative that another, adequate to supply her
place, should be ready. The loss of any British vessel,
by such a failure, would be loudly proclaimed, but the re-
flection, if such a misfortune befel a Strange vessel of
War, would be sensibly felt by our Government. It will
naturally occur to the minds of most of my readers to
inquire whether this vessel (and, as I have suggested, her
duplicate) cannot, with all her expenses, be superseded by
a lighthouse upon the Roman Rocks ? I cannot safely
reply in the affirmative, but I have been informed by
Mr. A. Gordon, Civil Engineer, that if a base of twelve
or thirteen feet rock can be secured, an iron lighthouse
of seventy feet may be raised at a moderate expense;
less, than the cost, wear and tear, of one vessel for five
years. All these matters were much agitated during my
visit, and as they were to be followed by an official repre-
sentation from a higher quarter, I trust that the matter
will receive the attention of Government.

On the 7th of October H.M.S ' Apollo ', having on
board invalids, &c., quitted for England, and as our
operations in Simon's Bay were complete, the ' Samarang '

VOL. II. P

210 LIEUT. ROBERTON. [1846.

was moved to Table Bay, there to await the arrival of
Admiral Dacres and convey his final Despatches for
England. Lieut. Roberton, whose name has frequently
been noticed in this narrative, and who was my frequent
associate on boat service, supplying the place of my
lamented friend Lieut. Baugh, who had been sent home
a year previously, was left behind at the Hospital ,at
Simon's Bay with the purpose of following in some of
the homeward-bound ships-of-war at a more favourable
season of the year. His health, since our return from
the Japanese cruize, continued to fail, and he was
now so far reduced as to afford little prospect of his
recovery. The pain of separating from all his associates
was sensibly felt. As a gentleman, and friend, I valued
him ; as an Officer, he was exemplary ; and, from his
untiring zeal, his conduct at all times merited my confi-
dence and entire approbation. I regret to say that the
receipt of recent intelligence has confirmed our worst
apprehensions ; he died very shortly after our departure.
The present visit to Table Bay, although not affording
the customary gaiety which the presence of the Governor
and garrison generally entailed, was sufficiently pleasant
amongst the personal friends I found remaining. Cape
Town was, indeed, dull; the troops absent on the Frontier,
and the military positions and barracks occupied by
the Burgher force. My occupations, however, afforded
me sufficient employment to prevent my feeling the
change. The principal object of our visit to Table Bay
was its re-survey, in consequence of the intended con-
struction of a Break-water ; and, although the measure,
by the papers supplied to me, appeared to have already

1846.] BREAK-WATER AT TABLE BAY. 211

obtained the sanction of the Home Government, still it was
imagined that some modification might be directed, not
only as to its general lines, its connection, or otherwise,
with the main, but also its adaptation to naval interests.
The sum proposed had been estimated at 300,000/., but
as in all such matters, hitherto projected, we may safely
assume, that its completion will not be covered by nearly
a million.

In a mercantile point of view, the Break-water may
possibly suffice for the number of merchant vessels which
at present frequent the Bay, but if any such outlay is sanc-
tioned by Her Majesty's Government, I think that some-
thing more than the mere accommodation of the merchant
shipping should be embraced, and that as a positive increase
of trade and shipping would naturally occur, it would invite
an enemy to make this a most decided point of aggression ;
naval aid will therefore be required. As under the present
lines adequate shelter is not easily obtained, it would be
advisable to suspend operations until the best opinion of
a Board of Naval and Military men, unconnected with
local opinions, should report, not only upon the projected,
or later, plans, but should also state their opinions as to
the probability of a slaty foundation being adequate to the
proper support of masonry. The Dutch tried it many
years ago, and failed. If the experiment fails where it is
now to be attempted, the present anchorage will be in-
jured, if not ruined. The present defences of the bay are
in no way calculated to protect works of such value, we
may, therefore, add, to any outlay upon the sea, cor-
responding defences on shore.

With regard to the two lighthouses erected in Table

p2

212 ST. HELENA. [1846.

Bay, one stands upon Green Point, having two lanthorns,
the other upon Monille Point, having one, of the fourth-
class lenticular. As lighthouses, they may be useful, but
when an expense of three lanthorns has been incurred, I
should have been glad to have seen them so placed as to
embrace every useful adaptation connected with pilotage.
This has not been sufficiently studied, either in their
positions or adaptation.

On the 21st of October, H.M.S. ' President ' arrived at
Simon's Bay, and having taken my leave of, and received
the Despatches from, the Admiral, we quitted Table Bay
on the 24th, for St. Helena. Immediately preceding our
departure, the new Governor of St. Helena, Sir Patrick
Stuart, appointed to succeed Colonel Trelawny, deceased,
arrived in one of the Indian ships, and remained at the
Cape awaiting the first convenient vessel that would touch
at that island. After a favourable passage of sixteen days
we sighted the island during the night of the 8th Nov.,
and about 5 A.M. on the 9th, dropped our anchor off
James' Town. Here we found H. M. Brig ' Heroine ',
the French Troop Ship ' Oise ', and several prizes cap-
tured by our African cruizers. Having completed water,
we took our departure on the evening of the 10th, for
Ascension.

Since calling in 1842 the Island had been visited by
one of those dreadful scourges which are experienced
generally in intertropical positions, but which have
occurred as far south as Tristan d'Acunha. This is the
Roller, which in a dead calm sets in upon the shore
with incredible violence, swamping even vessels of war
which may happen to be within its range. It has

1846.] EFFECTS OF THE ROLLERS. 213

occurred, within my knowledge, at four different places :
Tristan d'Acunha, St. Helena, Ascension, and Mazatlan
in the Gulf of California. At Tristan d'Acunha H. M.
Brig ' Julia ' foundered with all on board ; the Captain
and his boat's crew, which were on shore at the moment,
being the only persons saved. At St. Helena, the in-
shore slave prizes were the principal sufferers, but the
garrison walls were undermined and thrown down, and
the sea broke furiously over the ramparts into Govern-
ment House. I am not aware of the damage done at

o

Ascension.* At Mazatlan, situated on the Mexican side
of the Gulf of California, this is of frequent occurrence,
expected annually, and much dreaded by us in the
' Blossom ' in 1827, and ' Sulphur ' in 1839. One fine
vessel, commanded by a friend of mine, with himself and

* "St. Helena has ever boasted of the safety of its roadstead, and
that most justly, as no individual upon the island can remember a
solitary instance of a vessel having been wrecked upon its shores.
Those who witnessed the scene presented on Tuesday, the 17th instant,
alas ! will have a different tale to tell. The roadstead, which only
the day previous was like a mill pond, was a sea of troubled waters.

" During Monday night, the rollers for which St. Helena has ever
been celebrated, the cause of which is altogether unaccounted for,
began gradually to rise, and on Tuesday had increased to an awful
height, like so many rolling mountains, one after another, driving
every thing before them. The English schooner Cornelia, condemned
at this port a short time since, and purchased by Mr. Cole, was the
h'rst vessel driven on shore. If the person in charge of this vessel
had been left five minutes longer than he was on board, it would have
been out of the power of human aid to have saved his life, as the
vessel, some distance from the shore, was buried in the tremendous
seas, and ultimately came in upon the beach : in a few minutes she
was a mass of splinters." — St. Helena Gazette.

For full particulars of this disaster, in which thirteen vessels, and
three men were lost, vide 'Nautical Magazine ' for June, 1846.

214 ASCENSION. [1846.

crew was utterly destroyed in 1836, the receding wave
leaving his vessel dry, and the returning dashing her to
atoms. This is said to be averted by securely mooring
head to seaward, by which measure others, it appears,
escaped. It can only be compared to those Rollers which
have, from time to time, been described as visiting places
under influence of earthquake. Similar Rollers, on a
small, and less dangerous, scale, have visited San Bias.
Why it is so regular at Mazatlan, a little further north,
is a problem worthy of consideration. Quitting St.
Helena on the evening of the 10th, we reached Ascension
shortly after dawn on the morning of Sunday the 15th,
where we found H. M. S. ' Devastation ', bearing the
broad Pennant of Commodore Sir Charles Hotham, the
' Lily ', ' Cacique ', and ' Tortoise '. Ascension had ex-
perienced not only a very dry season, but, either from
the exercise of great guns, or some other disturbing
cause, there had also been a scarcity of turtle, conse-
quently, we did not receive the customary supply. After
paying my respects to the Commodore, and accompanying
him to the Service at the Chapel, I returned to his
quarters and remained until evening, when, having re-
ceived his Despatches, we were again in motion about
10 P.M., for our final destination — England.

Our passage homeward was not so rapid as we antici-
pated at this season, and on the 22nd of Dec., the 42nd
day from quitting St. Helena, we had barely reached the
limits of the great Bank of Soundings extending off the
mouth of the English Channel, although our velocity
precluded our getting bottom ; and, with a fine westerly
breeze springing up, were rapidly decreasing our distance

1846.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 215

from home. The temperature, which had now fallen to 54°,
was sharply felt by men so long accustomed to tropical
regions, where that of 76° was almost chilly, but possibly
this feeling was much increased in my own mind, for I
believe that I was the greatest sufferer.

Those who have made similar voyages, especially after an
absence of nearly four years, can readily picture the anxiety
of the greater part of my crew to reach England in time to
participate in the festivities of the approaching Christmas.
Many were the prophecies, and numerous the bets, as to
the glad day on which we should reach home. Even the
old ship herself seemed to share in this pleasurable ex-
citement, and lightened of stores, provisions and water,
was gaily bounding over the waves, increasing hourly her
speed, until she had attained the velocity of eleven knots.

Little did any of us, however, dream that these cheerful
anticipations of the evening were so nearly approaching
to an awful crisis. I had previously given directions to
be called before midnight, in order that sail might, if
necessary, be reduced by both watches, and thus avoid
the necessity of disturbing them during the night. She
was then reduced to a close-reefed main-top-sail and fore-
sail, and the watch called. Her velocity, I find, recorded
under this canvas, ten knots. The watch were employed
getting topgallant masts on deck, and making all snug
aloft. I had not been below long, when I detected, by
the motion, that she was badly steered. The foresail was
taken in, and a fresh helmsman placed ; her velocity had
now increased to thirteen knots. The temperature fell,
a short cross sea, evidently showing a contrary wind not
far distant, made her very uneasy. Shortly after, a sea,

216 TERRIFIC GALE. [1846.

with a crash which shivered the strong plate glass of my
skylight, and greatly damaged it, as well as staving in
several main deck ports, heeling the ship at the same
moment heavily to starboard, and washing me in my cot,
informed me that my presence was required on deck.

As I passed through my cabin door I found the ship
flooded on the main deck, the water rushing down the
hatchways, and " all hands ", without the necessity for
" the shrill pipe of the Boatswain ", scrambling, or rushing
wildly, up the hatchways, at this inclement season,
almost in a state of nudity. Owing to the very spirited
exertions of our able carpenter, Mr. Daw, aided by his
crew, the hatchways were instantly battened down, and to
the due preparation for this emergency (nightly at quarters)
were we principally indebted for our preservation.

On reaching the deck, 1 found the Officers flying to
their stations, many rather scantily clad for the winter
season of the year in this region, and anxiously awaiting
my instructions. At no moment of my life did I ever
experience so truly, the inestimable value of a well-disci-
plined set of Officers and men, accustomed to danger.
No symptom of fear, from the highest to the lowest, and
cheerfulness, if such could be expected at such an awful
moment, seemed to animate all around me. These are
moments when an Officer can be fully repaid for all his
anxieties, when he feels, that although he holds the scales
of almost life or death to the hundreds under his com-
mand, they cheerfully look to his decision, confident that
he will, Deo volente, bring them through their difficulties.

Kying through the water at a velocity of thirteen
knots, steerage not only became difficult, but too hazardous

1846.] PERILOUS MOMENTS. 217

to be continued; preservation depended upon our in-
stantly ' rounding to/ a manoeuvre of which my nautical
brethren will instantly comprehend the danger, but with
a main-top-sail over our heads, and the ship fluttering
for her existence (being then almost under water) perilous
to the last degree. The performance of so dangerous
a service depended entirely on the most scrupulous
observance of my orders ; to secure their perfect and
speedy transmission to the forecastle, a chain of Officers
was established to pass the word, and by these means
they were carried out by them respectively with such a
degree of zeal and precision, to a fathom of brace, as I
never saw surpassed, even in a royal breeze. It was
imperative that the main-top-sail should be annihilated
over-head, without pressing the ship; in fact, to split it to
ribbands, and to prevent the weight of this powerful sail
literally capsizing us ; at the same time, it was necessary
to humour it until it had done its duty. To have clued
it up, under the chance of its bellying into a bag, would
have entailed instant destruction ; nor could time or force
be spared : the danger was imminent. The Officers were
apprized of my intentions, and took instant measures for
securing their effectual completion. The leading seamen,
themselves, seemed intuitively to comprehend my views,
took their stations, and if ever ship of war could be com-
pared to a piece of mechanism, such a comparison might
have been made at this moment.

Doubtless some of my naval readers, sitting at their ease
ashore, with their legs under their mahogany, enjoying
their port wine and nuts, may be perusing this with a
critical eye ; but let them figure to themselves the posi-

218 " BROACHING TO." [1846.

tion, the almost certain destruction, under received notions
of " broaching to," that stared every one in the face ; the
necessity for thought, and action, the getting up of a firm-
ness and decision at such a moment, as should inspire
those around with confidence, and belief that it was in the
power of their Commander to achieve their safety : these
were instantaneous. I saw, that to avoid the evil of
"broaching to" too abruptly, I must treat her as a
well-trained horse, throw her gradually on her haunches,
then give her the rein, and let her take her humour. The
orders, I have already observed, were transmitted so per-
fectly that my views were duly executed. Handling the
main braces forward, so as to neutralize, or shiver, the
main-top-sail as she came to to starboard, it was occa-
sionally spilling aback, or filled, until I could stop her
way, when, watching my moment, the weather and lee
main-top-sail sheets were so eased together, and the main
yard braced aback as to shiver and split the sail to ribbands
(this I foresaw would be commenced by the chain top-sail
sheets), but under this she heeled awfully. Permission
was asked "to cut away the masts," but it was too
palpable, that ere five minutes could elapse our fate would
be decided, my reply was, " you may order the axes up,
and see to the laniards, but first ascertain for me the
exact inch to which she is depressed at the main hatch-
way." " One inch clear, and battened down," was the
firm reply, and such a reply, at such a moment, was new
life. " Hold on ; the masts will take her home " ! That
reply inspired the crew with more confidence than if they
had heard the crash of the falling masts. What the
feelings were of those around me I could not divine, but

1846.] DELIVERANCE. 219

I think there were but few who did not internally send
up a fervent prayer to " Him who rules the storm " for our
merciful deliverance. The moments were awful ; safety, or
probably more serious thoughts, seemed to paralyse con-
versation. We remained at our posts anxiously, and almost
silently, awaiting dawn. The gusts were fearfully heavy,
and good sea-boat as the ' Samarang ' had always proved
herself, still she writhed under it, and owing to her lee
ports being open, lashing the water fore and aft, with a
most disheartening noise. With the dawn, measures were
taken for repairing defects, clearing the holds of the water
shipped down the hatchways, and lightening the ship of
all top hamper. About 8 o'clock we noticed a schooner
on our lee bow, on which we should inevitably have fallen
had it not been daylight. Setting our fore storm stay-
sail, we gathered sufficient steerage way to pass under
her lee, and thus saved both from much anxiety. As we
passed close to her we looked for some tokens of life, and
although it was very evident, from her canvas, that she
was properly handled, not a soul was noticed on her
decks, even at her helm ; it is probable, therefore, that
her helm had been lashed a-lee, and the helmsman gone
below to the cabin to report our motions. She subse-
quently proved to be one of the Mediterranean fruit
vessels.

Less than twenty-four hours had elapsed, from the rising of
this gale, when we experienced a foul wind succeeded by
calm, with all the concomitant disagreeables of tumbling
about, and heavy flapping of the sails, a sensation parti-
cularly harassing to any one who feels for his craft, and
to those who are not actively occupied, tedious beyond

220 REACH SPITHEAD. [1846.

description. Light variable breezes succeeded until the
28th, when we had only reached within forty miles of the
'Lizard'. On the 31st Dec. we reached Spithead, and
saluted the Flag of Admiral Sir Charles Ogle. The same
evening H.M.S. ' Daphne ' arrived, last from Vigo, having
experienced the same gale.

The ' Samarang ' was ordered to Chatham, but as she
had on board 12,000/. in four-penny-pieces, returned from
the Mauritius, she was detained until the weather ad-
mitted of their being landed. Late in the evening of the
5th of January, we weighed from Spithead, but the thick
weather which ensued, obscured the lights, and finding
ourselves too close to the Horse and Dean Shoals we
anchored for the night, weighing before daylight the
ensuing morning, in order to be beyond sight of the
Admiral's Flag before 8 o'clock, which, I had already
been apprized would entail my becoming one of the
members of a Court Martial, for which they had already
a sufficient number. By the naval regulations, all Captains
and Commanders within sight of the Union Flag displayed
on board a ship in which a Court Martial is held, are
bound to repair on board in full dress. The Admirals
and Captains, in seniority, until the number amounts to
thirteen, compose the Court. The remainder, after bowing
to the President, are permitted to retire. In the event of
there being only three of the rank of Admiral or Captain
the two senior Commanders are taken in to make a Court,
which cannot consist of less than five, of which two may
be Commanders. On the 8th of January, 1847, we
anchored at the Little Nore, saluting the Flag of Vice
Admiral Sir E. D. King, the Commander-in-Chief ; on

1847.] CONCLUSION. 221

the morning following were mustered, and exercised in
the customary inspection of gunnery and evolutions by
the Flag Captain, and immediately after, aided by a
steam tug, our ship was towed to Chatham.

On the 18th the ' Samarang ' was paid off into ordi-
nary, and from her being built of teak, and pretty good
proof afforded, during her late commission, of her being
a very strong ship, was ordered to be fitted up for Port
service at Gibraltar. Upon docking, her bottom was
found to have suffered much injury from her last
grounding off Billiton, but nothing of a nature to have
rendered her un-seaworthy for a longer period.

In consideration of the importance of the objects of
Natural History collected during the voyage, the Lords
of the Treasury, at the instance of the Lords Commis-
sioners of the Admiralty, have granted a liberal sum in
aid of their publication ; and the work will shortly ap-
pear under the superintendence of Mr. Adams, aided by
various labourers, distinguished in the several depart-
ments.

Mr. Adams' general observations on the Natural His-
tory of the countries visited during the expedition, will
now follow, and the volume will terminate with^a brief
vocubulary of the languages spoken between Borneo and
the Korea.

NOTES

A JOUKNAL OF RESEARCH

NATURAL HISTORY

COUNTEIES VISITED

DURING THE

VOYAGE OF H.M.S. SAMARANG,

UNDER THE

COMMAND OF CAPTAIN SIR E. BELCHER, C.B.

BY

ARTHUR ADAMS, ASSIST. SURGEON.

ATTACHED TO THE EXPEDITION.

"look who list thy gazeful eyes to feed
With sight of that is fair, look on the frame
Of this wyde universe, and therein read
The endless kinds of creatures which hy name
Thou canst not count, much less their natures aime,
All which are made with wondrous wise respect,
And all with admirable beauty deckt."

SPENCER ; Hymn on Heavenly Beauty.

225

CHAPTER I.

CAPE DE VERBS.— CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.— JAVA.

Porto-Praya — A Rainbow — Aspect of the Village — Negro Children —
The Lion-ant — Vegetation of Santiago — The Bird of Pharaoh —
The Fishing Eagle of Africa— The Gecko— Splendid Sun-set—
Leave Porto-Praya— The Petrels — The Dolphin — Jelly-fish—
Beautiful Physalia — Double the Cape — Simon's Bay — Scenery —
Vegetation — The Honey-suckers — The Fishing Cormorant —
Reptiles — The Sand-mole — The Long-eared Fox — Singular habits
of a Beetle — Insects fertilizing Flowers — Leave Simon's Bay —
Eve on the Indian Ocean — Habits of the Pteropods — The Straits
of Sunda — Transparent Crustaceans — Fecundity of the Ocean —
Remarkable Crabs — Welcome Say, Java — Scenery — Natives —
Habits of the Plantain Squirrel — The Walking-leaf Insect —
The Carrier-Trochus — Animal of Marginella.

AFTER a somewhat tedious and protracted voyage across
the Atlantic, we anchored at Porto Praya, in the island
of St. Jago, on the 3rd of March, 1843. The first inci-
dent that occurred to me on landing, was getting stung
in the hand by a large hymenopterous insect, a species of
Pepsis. A splendid double rainbow which just then made
its appearance, soon, however, diverted my attention from
that painful circumstance, for, with a high and noble
arc, this " airy child of vapour and the sun " spanned

VOL. II. Q

226 ST. JAGO.

the firmament, one end buried in the ocean, and the
other lost behind the rugged mountains of St. Jago. On
strolling through the village, nothing, at first sight,
amused me so much as the astonishing number of little,
pot-bellied, naked children, sprawling about the sandy
thoroughfares ; groups of young, black girls, dressed up
in gaudy shawls, and, in many cases, smoking short
pipes, contributed materially to the strangeness of the
scene ; while itinerant fruit-venders, ugly negroes " things
of shreds and patches ", shouting their unintelligible
jargon, put the finishing touch to the picture. The
doctrines of Malthus appear here to be utterly disre-
garded, and the place literally swarms with children.
The negro-mother bears her living burden on her hip,
supported by a broad and padded band, one of the
urchins' legs being before and one behind. The counte-
nance of these young Ethiops is most amusing and
grotesque ; they are always very solemn in their look,
and their sloe-black eyes gleam keenly all around, save
when you notice or caress them, when they hide their
tiny heads in apprehension and alarm. Before they well
can hobble on their legs, the heavens form their only
roof and God their only safeguard. Often have I seen
them sprawling on the ground, licked by dogs, pawed
by playful cats, kicked by careless goats, and sometimes
sorely pecked by saucy fowls ; covered with dust, and
scrambling on its belly, the little creature strains and
giggles, striving to approach its mute companions, — poor
thing, as mute itself and helpless as the worst of them !

Strolling along the beach I noticed the large, hideous
Sea-slug (Aplysia), and the cunning Octopus, the manners

LION-ANT.

of which are described in such a very amusing vein by
Darwin.

Some parts of the sandy plains of St. Jago are covered
with the ingenious pit-falls of the Lion-ant (Myrmecleon
formicarius), and I observed that the crowd of little,
naked negro-children who were collecting for me, always
repeated a peculiar humming kind of song as they
scratched the larvae of this cruel tiger of the insect-world
from the sand with their fingers ; no doubt a kind of
ditty similar to that repeated by English children, when
they watch the Lady-bird take flight from their finger.

Mr. Darwin, whose delightful narrative must always
be read with interest and pleasure, has justly described
the usual desolate appearance of this island, but I think
he has hardly done justice to its yet remaining vegetation.
In the course of my rambles, even in the vicinity of
Porto Praya, I was much struck by the aspect of many
plants, although my eye, not then being accustomed to
tropical forms, might have viewed them with an interest
too earnest and partial. For, although the island of
St. Jago, of a volcanic origin, is covered with a dry and
barren soil, yet there may be seen plantations of Coco-
Nuts, Plantains, and Tamarinds, with the Pandanus
and Palmyra Palms, besides Orange, Pig, and Lemon
trees, and Pine-apple plants. Near the village of Ribeira-
Grande, I noticed the beautiful and elegant Melia Aze-
derach, with its lively panicles of lilac flowers, and small
olive-like fruit.

The Aloes, growing here in large masses, have a very
pretty effect when their blossoms are expanded, and,
among their large yellow spikes of bell-shaped corollas,

Q2

228 CASTOR-OIL PLANT.

many singular small species of Coleoptera were found.
The Batatas edulis is met with nearly wild, and, as it
trails along the ground, its large, red, infundibuliform
flowers relieve the sterile aspect of the landscape, the
sombre effect of which is further enlivened by the gaudy
yellow petals of the Cotton plant (Gossypium herbaceum}.
A splendid species of Asclepias rewarded our research,
though it appeared to be very uncommon, and a pretty
little labiate flower, the Ajuga Iva, was found in consi-
derable numbers, which yielded, when pressed, a very
agreeable odour of musk, and was hence formerly named
Tencrium Moschatum. The Datura Tatula, though
originally a native of Portugal, grows wild, and is a
violent narcotic poison, and might be substituted for
Strammonium in the practice of medicine ; another
species, Datura Metel, with a very large and splendid
white corolla, is also very common. The Castor-oil plant
(Ricinus communis) with its glaucous spikes and prickly
capsules, seems to thrive here, as in most other barren
places in the tropics, although the oil is not valued by
the natives; the negro children, however, seem very
fond of the kernels, which are agreeable to the taste and
not purgative.* The Cucumis Colocynthis is a very
common weed in St. Jago ; the ripe fruit is as large as a
small orange, and in the green state is intensely bitter
and powerfully cathartic.

* According to Crawford the same neglect of this useful purgative is
evinced throughout the Oriental Archipelago ; he says, " The Castor-
oil is never, I think, used medicinally by the Indian Islanders, but is
the principal material used in lamps."

FISHING EAGLE. 229

At St. Jago the Bird of Pharoah (Percnopteris leuco-
cephalus) not only consumes offal and excrement, but
preys on lizards and locusts, eternally hovering about
in a vile ignoble way, after the manner of the Carrion-
Crows. Its flight is very heavy, nor does it ever soar
like the Eagle or the Kite. It performs the part of an
useful scavenger in a country where putrefaction is so
rapid. The natives of the Cape de Verds, however, do
not appear to hold it in the same veneration and respect
as we are told the Egyptians did of yore. Another great
destroyer of the innumerable Grylli that swarm here is
the pretty Dacelo lagoensis, a species of Kingfisher, a
very pretty slim species of Sylvia) and a small Hawk,
very much resembling in plumage the Sparrow-Hawk.

The Eishing Eagle of Africa (Haliecetm vocifer] may
occasionally be seen hovering about these islands. Elastic
and buoyant, this agile dweller in the air mounts to
soaring heights, scanning, with sharp and piercing eye,
the motions of his prey below. Energetic in his move-
ments, impetuous in his appetites, he pounces with the
velocity of a meteor on the object of his wishes, and,
with a wild and savage joy, tears it to pieces. His whole
sense of existence is the procuring of food, and for this
he is ever on the alert, ever ready to combat, to ravage,
and destroy.

Numbers of a small, black, land Salamander are found
concealed under the stones among the sand, and huge
Locusts swarm by myriads.

The Tarentola Delalandii, a singular grey-coloured
Gecko, is common on Quail Island, near the anchorage

230 STORMY PETREL.

of Porta Praya. It is a dull, sluggish, and retiring
animal, shrouding its uncouth form in dark holes and
obscure corners of the rocks. It is nocturnal in its
habits, shunning the garish light of day, and creeping
forth at eve to seek its insect food. Although repulsive
in its aspect, it is perfectly harmless, and, like all its
tribe, has the power of climbing perpendicular surfaces
by its broad and plaited toes.

On the 7th of March we left the Cape de Verds ; a
sluggish mist covered the distant mountains, and the
sun, which looks very large in these latitudes, as he sank
below the horizon, appeared to have burst, and, like
some gigantic meteor, to have poured forth all its fire in
one stupendous flame-coloured fan, or gold and crimson
tail of some unheard-of bird. The great comet was
visible during the night. During our passage across
the Indian Ocean, I was much amused in observing the
mode of flight of the Petrels. These wild and free-born
denizens of the deep, seem to sport in all the conscious-
ness of liberty. They cleave the atmosphere of their
boundless home on rapid wing, soaring aloft with the.
lightness of a feathery cloud ; they skim the surface of
the deep, they float upon its bosom, and I have seen
the storm-loving Petrel (TJialassidroma pelagicd], that
"wanderer of the sea", dive beneath the waters to
secure its prey. They always love the troubled ocean,
for then their food is more easily procured, and when
the sky is lowering and the scud begins to rise, when
the wind blows high and the billows are crested with
foam, the Petrels are abroad.

WHALE-BIRD AND DOLPHIN. 231

The species differ in their modes of flight : the Giant
Petrel (Procettaria gigantea) flies in a wild and sweeping
manner, poising himself, and often remaining motionless
in the air like an Eagle. The flight of the Cape Pigeon
(P. Capensis) is erratic, and neither powerful nor rapid.
There is one species as large as a Kestrel, and entirely
of a sooty black ; it has long powerful wings, and a
rapid steady flight, like the wide sweep of some gigantic
Swift ; these hunt in couples, and are very wild and shy.
Another, called the "Whale-bird" by the seamen, is
solitary in his habits, and his sweep across the ocean is
more extensive than that of other species. This, as well
as P. turtur and Forsteri, describe vast circles in the air,
and dart suddenly on their prey. Another wild and
sprightly species is not much larger than a Lark ; erratic,
wavering, and rapid in its flight, it always keeps aloof from
the ship, and, even more than any of the others, appears
to delight in stormy weather.

During our passage the sailors were fortunate enough
to catch some Dolphins, and, although the beauties of
this fish when dying have been so often expatiated on,
perhaps the following note, made at the time, may not
be uninteresting, for I fancy that in no two Dolphins do
the dying colour-changes follow precisely in the same
order. The one I observed, from a grass-green, covered
with round ultramarine spots, became silvery, and the
green faded, while the deep blue of the dorsal fin, and
golden green of the back, remained. From this, it
changed to a burnished brass colour, the blue spots
vanished, and were succeeded by an azure tinge on a

232 CHANGE OF COLOUR.

silvery ground, followed by a dull, opaque, leaden grey.
One poet has said,

" parting day

Dies like the Dolphin, whom each pang imbues
With a new colour as it gasps away,
The last still loveliest, till — 'tis gone and all is grey."

There are many other fish that change colour several
times before they die ; I have seen species of Pimelodus
or Cat-fish, change from a warm and glowing smalt,
during the last few pangs, to a dull leaden hue, losing,
at the same time, the delicate pinky tinge of the sides
and abdomen. The common Sucking-fish (Echineis
Eemora) from a brown, bright, shining, blackish colour,
changes, even in the water, to a leaden hue, and, as it
dies, assumes a tancolour, which grows paler by degrees
until it fades into a dirty white.

In calms, the South Atlantic abounds in Acalephce,
and much amusement may be derived, in a long sea
voyage, from the observation of these beautiful organisms ;
for endless are the moulds in which prolific Nature has
cast them. Some are shaped like a mushroom, others
assume the form of a riband, others are globular, while
some are circular, flat, or bell-shaped, and others again
resemble a bunch of berries. Their motions are generally
tardy, their sensations dull, and directed entirely to the
procuring of food. They often float without any apparent
animation, trusting to the winds and waves to waft
them about, and to carry them their food. Some keep
a little beneath the surface, and propel themselves by
contracting and dilating their pellucid discs, while others,
as the Seroe, have a rapid rotatory motion. They have

JELLY FISHES. 233

been termed the " living jellies of the deep ", and are
endowed, in many cases, with an acrid secretion, which,
irritating the skin, has also caused them to be called
" Sea-nettles." There is one large species common in the
Straits of Singapore, dreaded by the Malays, on account
of the violence of this power. Dr. Oxley informed me
that he was obliged to amputate the thumb on account
of the violent inflammation, induced by this poison, in
the person of a Malay fisherman.* In colour, perhaps,
the most delicate is the lovely Velella, with its pellucid
crest, its green transparent body, and fringe of purple
tentacles. Specific distinctions have been taken from
the form of the crest, as in V. pyramidalis, but I have
noticed this part rounded, more or less pointed, and,
in some cases, even lobed, in what I have considered the
same species.

The Velella has been seen as far north as 40°, covering
a large surface of the Pacific Ocean, and tinging the
water for many miles. I have seen them covering the
coasts of some of the Islands of the Meia-co-shima
Group by myriads, strewing the beach for miles with
their delicate, pellucid skeletons.! Sir Edward Belcher

* I have seen Rhizostomata off the Peninsula of Malacca swimming
by in large troops, comprising many thousands of individuals, many
of which measure as much as three feet in diameter. They have been
found to weigh, according to Peron and Lesueur, as much as from fifty
to sixty pounds. The same naturalist, speaking of these animals, ob-
serves, that " they seem extremely feeble, but fishes of large size are
daily their prey."

f Professor Owen, in his nineth Hunterian Lecture, for 1843, ob-
serves that occasionally some of the singular forms of AcalephcR of the
tropical seas are stranded on the south-western shores of England. " I
have picked up on the coast of Cornwall the little Vddla, which had

234 PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR.

informs me that he has attempted to reduce them to
isinglass, by boiling, but that they appear to be quite
worthless in a commercial point of view.

The Physalia, or " Portuguese man-of-war ", is very
delicately tinted, sometimes white and pink, and some-
times of a lovely lilac, with a pale crimson crest. Byron
has termed the Nautilus '• the Ocean Mab, the Fairy of
the Sea"; modern science has, however, dispelled the
poetic illusion of " oars and aerial sails ", and altered its
mode of progression altogether. The phrase of the poet
will more particularly apply to the above-mentioned
Acalepha, which rears its fragile crest above the waves in
the calm regions of the tropics, and allows the gentle
breeze to waft it on its course.*

Among the numerous varieties of Physalia pelagica
found by us floating on the surface of the Indian Ocean,
was one taken in trawl, of a form so peculiar, and of a
colour so distinct, as to warrant its being called by a
different specific name, although the form of the bladder
alone is not sufficient to characterize these animals. The
body of this specimen was of a delicate transparent blue,
and the crest, twisted slightly on itself, was lilac, blending

been wafted thither, unable to strike its characteristic lateen sail.
There also I have seen wrecked a fleet of the Portuguese men-of-war
(Physalia), which had been buoyed by their air-bladders to that iron-
bound coast."

* I observe by his Hunterian Lectures that the same idea occurred
to the mind of Professor Owen. Alluding to Velella, he says, " one
of the genera, Felella, has a process of the firm internal skeleton,
arising from the upper surface of the body-disc, to which it is set at
the same angle as the lateen-sail of the Malay coast ; it is wafted
along by the action of the wind upon this process, and may have been
mistaken for the fabled Cephalopodic paper-sailor (Argonauta)."

SIMON'S BAY. 235

into pink towards the summit. The vesicle was, more-
over, provided with three horn-like appendages, one curved
like an Ammonite, of deep Prussian-blue, with another of
a smaller size projecting from it, and a third, of a green
colour, situated at the opposite extremity of the vesicle.
The tentacles and ovaries were of dark-indigo colour.

On the 25th of April, 1843, we were anchored in
Simon's Bay. As you double the Cape, the scenery
looks very uninviting to the eye of the naturalist, who
views it for the first time, but as you draw nearer, the
mountains grow more and more interesting. The wild
and naked aspect of the almost savage scenery is much
improved by woody gorges or chasms, and even on the
brown sides of the mountains, coloured patches soon
appear on your nearer approach, as the numerous species
of heaths and composite flowers begin to be recognized,
and now and then some picturesque knoll, crowned with
a fantastic tree, will interpose its form, and break the
monotonous outline of the landscape.

During our stay there, the deep water of the offing
appeared to swarm with endless varieties of the " finny
drove ", and the hollows in the rocks, and the shallow
ponds along the sandy shores, were full of interesting
Mollusks, and curious Crustaceans. If you climb the
mountains, in some of the woody thickets you may
chance to hear the beautiful golden Cuckoo, uttering at
intervals its short, sharp note, or you may observe large
showy-looking Shrikes, darting about, busily intent on
prey, lively Creepers, clinging, in sportive attitudes, to
the over-hanging boughs, and the pretty Wood -pecker
( Dcndrobates cjriscoccphalusj , climbing up and down the

236 FERNS.

boughs, sounding, with his bill, the rotten portions of
the tree, for there he knows he is sure to find choice
morsels. For the botanist, there are many objects to
attract the eye, even immediately after landing.

The Plumbago Capensis ornaments every cultivated
patch of Land at Simon's Town, relieving, by its lively
blue corollas, the sombre hue of the dry and arid soil ;
and numerous feathery Acacias spring up in the centre of
the town, delicate, graceful, and refreshing. The Mesem-
bryanthemum edule covers the sterile grounds, and adorns
the parched and sandy earth with verdure, where no
other plant will grow; and the bare rocks are orna-
mented with moss, and variegated with a thousand diffe-
rent Lichens. The Ferns I gathered were most beautiful.
Not very far from Simon's Town, there is a wild and
rugged chasm, with a stream tumbling down the middle,
rolling hurriedly in its headlong course, and scattering a
refreshing moisture on everything around, where these
delicate and lovely Cryptogamia grow in great profusion.
Here the minute and fragile fronds of the Hymenophyllum,
the curious foliage of the Pieris, the narrow-leaved
Blechnum, the elegant Adiantum, and a rare and singular
species of Asplenium, either with the fronds laden with
sporules, or with the fructification pretty far advanced,
are seen springing from the damp surface of the rocks, or
waving gracefully from the fissures, like so many emerald
plumes. In the immediate vicinity of the town, the
silvery catkins of Cunonia Capensis glitter in the sun-
beams, and the huge downy blossoms of the Silver tree
(Protect argented) attract numerous sun-birds and honey-
suckers. The rich orange bells of the Leonotus Leonora,

FLOWERING PLANTS. 237

the showy flowers of a hundred Ericacece (the pride
of the colony) and the diversified forms of the ever-
changing Protects, mingled with extraordinary looking
Staphelias, Myrtles, Diosmce, Gladioli, and Salvias, form
together a rich and varied feast for the florist, and to the
botanist, a collection of a mixed and most singularly
beautiful description. In the neighbourhood of the Table
Mountain, and for some considerable distance up its
flanks, the character of the vegetation is very analogous
to that already noticed. Magnificent Acacias, and majestic
Aloes, grow at the foot of the mountain in splendid con-
dition, elevating their showy forms far above the prickly
shrubs, and lowlier plants that grow around them. The
aromatic Diosma, the juice of which the aboriginal Hot-
tentots mingle with the grease with which they anoint
their bodies, here grows in rich abundance, scenting the
very sod beneath the feet ; and many a gay Lobelia gems
the earth around.* Whole tracts are covered with luxu-
riant Proteaceous plants, Apocynums, Asclepiadacea, Sta-
pelece, Pelargoniums, in full flower, mixed with fantastic
Euphorbias, gay Heaths, succulent Crassulaceous plants,
Arums, and Lilies, giving the dry heathy nature of the
scenery a peculiar charm, quite unexpected in such an
apparent waste and desolate expanse. Nor must nume-

* Among the botanical curiosities of the Cape is the long-spined
Euphorbia heptayona, with the milk of which the Kaffirs poison their
arrows; the Dill (Anethum graveolen&) is not uncommon; and the
pretty-looking Marigold (Calendula pluvialis), which indicates fine
weather, by opening its flowers like the ' Shepherd's weather-glass ',
or scarlet Pimpernel (Anayallis arvens'ui) of Europe, may also be men-
tioned, although volumes have been written on the vegetation of the
Cape.

238 HONEY-SUCKERS.

rous delicate and ornamental Iridacea, and the fantastic
blossoms of the Orchis tribe be passed over in silence,
for various are the singular shapes that cross the path in
traversing these barren plains of Africa.

The sandy parts from Simon's Town to the Table
Mountain, are covered with the succulent leaves of the
Fig-Marigold, which gaily disports its yellow blossoms in
every direction, while Euphorbias, of anomalous forms,
spring up around, startling the eye with the strange
fantastic shapes they almost invariably assume. In short,
the way of the traveller is cheered at every step by
strange and brilliant flowers, and curious plants that give
an air of pleasing variety to the otherwise rude wilder-
ness of the Cape.

Among the most interesting objects that attract the
eye of the naturalist, during his excursions in the vicinity
of the Cape, none are more likely to interest him than
the Honey-suckers and the Cormorants.

The Nectarinite, or Honey-suckers, do not differ
materially in their habits from the Fairy-like Sun-birds,
except in clinging to boughs and stems, more after the
manner of the Cert/iice. They stoop their heads, and
insert their long and narrow beaks into the tubular
corollas, to search for the honey and insects of the
nectaries. From analyses of the contents of their
stomachs, I ascertained that their food is always insects
and honey. They are more homely and unpretending in
their feathery garb, and want the vivacity and dazzling
aspect of their fellow-plunderers, the Cinnyrides.

The Cormorant forms quite a peculiar feature in the
scenery of the Cape coast. Seated on the rocks, with

CORMORANTS. 239

sundry Divers and Penguins, upright, motionless, and
solemn, they remind you of some magisterial assembly
in their sable robes, met together in grave and earnest
conclave. The Cormorant of the Gape lays its eggs in
holes, among the rocks, and the insatiate young ones,
although constantly gorged by their industrious fisher-
parents, yet are never satisfied, but with open beak,
eager eye, and out-stretched neck, they flap their formless
wings, and appear to be continually crying out " more,
more " !

The Pishing Cormorants of the Cape (Phalacrocorax
Africanus) usually unite to form large fishing parties.
They wind their way, in single file, starting from the
rocks along the shore, then swimming in the tranquil
waters of the bays, invariably led on by some experienced
and sagacious old admiral, they commence their fishing.
When their pilot spies a shoal of fish he suddenly makes
a vault out of the water, arching his neck, bending his
body, and drawing up his legs, when diving headlong
down, he is followed immediately by all his anxious ad-
herents, who perform their somersets in precisely the
same manner. The flotilla remains submerged some little
time, when it rises once more to the surface, and the
feathered fishers again renew their diving and plunging
piscatory evolutions. During short rambles in the vici-
nity of the Cape, many interesting forms may be ob-
tained by the naturalist. Among others collected by us
was the Agama liispida, a hideously ugly Lizard, sluggish
in its habits, and having a very broad body, covered
with spines, a very short tail, and, as customary more
or less with African animals, coloured with that tint

240 LIZARDS AND TORTOISES.

which Schlegel emphatically calls the "colour of the
desert." I have seen a variety of this Agama with the
skin perfectly smooth, and even the tail almost entirely
devoid of spines. A friend succeeded in killing a very
large specimen of the Naja nivea, the bite of which is
considered very deadly by the inhabitants of the Cape ;
Tortoises (I believe Testuda geometrica and T. angulatd]
may be procured, at certain seasons, in any numbers, by
taking the trouble to climb the mountains. I have fre-
quently picked them up in my walks, and our Surgeon,
Dr. Mahon, on the roadside from Simon's Town to Cape
Town, made captive a very large flat-backed Water-
Tortoise (Emys galeatd) which was fishing in a pool. It
is rather remarkable that this same Tortoise is the only
one, out of several dozens of Tortoises brought from the
Cape, now alive in England, although from the date of
his capture to the present, it has been kept almost
entirely from the water.

Notwithstanding the apparently revolting smell and
disgusting nature of Cockroaches, many animals, besides
the little Otocyon Lalandii, are passionately fond of them.
Several Graculi religiosi on board our ship were in the
habit of hopping about the lower deck, greedily pur-
suing and devouring them. A small monkey took, like-
wise, great delight in seizing and masticating them, with
much gusto ; to say nothing of our peacocks, which were
passionately addicted to their consumption. In England,
as is well known, the Hedge-hog is kept for the purpose
of thinning their numbers.

The Sandmole (Bathyergus maritimus) causes great
havock in the gardens, in the vicinity of Simon's Town,

SAND-MOLE. 241

undermining the parterres, and consuming the roots of
the flowers. I saw several unfortunates just dug out of
their burrows by a little negro boy, who informed me
that he was employed by a certain old gentleman, owner
of a garden in the neighbourhood, to destroy these depre-
dators at so much per head. Although called Zandmott
by the colonists, it is a true Rodent, but lives under
ground, and raises hillocks like the Mole of Europe, or
the Tucotuco (Ctenomys Brasiliensis} of South America.
Like that little animal, also, it renders the ground in
some parts, unsafe for horses, owing to the long loose
subterranean galleries it forms in the sand. Although
furnished with very minute eyes, the Tucotuco is not ab-
solutely blind, as Darwin affirms it to be. They very soon
die in captivity, like the common Mole, which I could
never succeed in keeping alive for any length of time.
The skeleton of the Bathyergits reminds one somewhat of
that gigantic extinct quadruped the Megatherium, but
of course on a diminutive scale.

A large species of Ateuchm, a kind of Beetle, is com-
mon in the sandy roads about the Cape. You will see it,
frequently, like Sisyphus, rolling a huge round ball of
dung up a bank, by placing its hind legs against it, and
moving backwards. It frequently happens, that the ball
which contains the eggs rolls to the bottom, when the
poor patient Beetle begins its toilsome labour over again.

" adverse nixaiitem trudere monte

Saxum ; quod tamen a summo jam vertice rursum
Volvitur, et plani raptim petit aequora campi." *

* Lucret. lib. iii. ver. 1013.
VOL. II. R

242 SACRED BEETLE.

The Ateuchus jffigyptiorum, the Beetle held sacred, and
so often seen depicted in the hieroglyphics, and carved
on the monuments, of the ancient Egyptians, has the
same habit of enclosing its eggs in large round masses
of excrement, and rolling them along with its hinder legs
for the purpose of burying them in the ground.

The Cape, although very well explored by travellers, yet
appeared to me to offer fine opportunities to the Entomo-
logist, so great seemed the variety of insect-forms every-
where encountered. The large white spathas of the Arum,
which grows abundantly in the vicinity of Simon's Town,
usually have specimens of Anisonyx, and other Glaphy-
ridce, feeding on the spadix, and assisting the process of
impregnation by throwing about the pollen as they move
their bodies, which, for this purpose, are covered with
long hairs. Feeding on the Protect argentea, or Wittle-
broom, the splendid plant which is commonly used as
fire-wood at the Cape, I have found species of Hopliae,
Dic/ieli, and other Melolonthida, which apparently seem
to perform the same kind office of disseminating the
pollen from flower to flower. Smaller species are found
imbedded, by dozens, in the heads of the composite
flowers, in company with a single Cetonia pubescens.

On the 6th of May we left Simon's Town for Singa-
pore, and after a somewhat tempestuous passage across
the Indian Ocean, arrived at Welcome Bay, in the Straits
of Sunda, on the 10th of June. There are certain
phenomena to be observed, and animals to be studied,
however, even when traversing the high seas, with no
land in sight. As, for example, when the wide ocean
heaves languidly in its mighty bed, and, lost in gorgeous

CREPUSCULAR ANIMALS. 243

hues, the dull red disc of the setting suu sinks slowly
down beneath the horizon, the Noddy and the Frigate
Pelican, those " feathered fishers ", seek a resting-place
for the night • the " Tropic bird wheels rockward to his
nest"; the Petrels are no longer seen, the ghost-like
Albatross comes sweeping by, the Dolphins cease to
bound, and the Acalephce, and other fragile beings of the
deep, return to unknown solitudes. But the lovely
lanthina, and the fairy-like PJiysalia, do not gather in
their floats, but, in company with the giddy Hyalaea,
now sport upon the surface ; the Creseis and Cleodora,
those living hairs of glass, that glitter in the moon-beam,
are more numerous than in the day, and the Argonauta,
Carinaria, and Atlanta, take their pleasure on the surface
of the sea.

The Pteropods are little active and energetic Mollusks,
common in almost every sea. They are the very butter-
flies of the deep, and, from their extreme vivacity, would
appear to be possessed of acute sensibilities. Insatiate
and greedy, they are ever on the move, spinning, diving,
and whirling in every direction. The Hyalcea tridentata
reminds one forcibly of the erratic diving and plunging
evolutions of the Dyticus, and Hydrophilm of the ponds
of Europe. The Pneumodermon, when touched by a
foreign body, feigns death, rolling itself up in a ball, like
an Armadillo, or Glomeris. The Cleodora Balantium,
one of the handsomest of the tribe, is much steadier in
its mode of progression, than Ilyalcea, Creseis, or even
Cuvieria, owing, probably, to the comparative weakness
and small size of the alar membranous expansions. This
species, as well as the Cleodora cuspidata, when alive in

R2

244 CRUSTACEA.

the water, is perfectly pellucid, although it almost in-
variably becomes semi-opaque when dry. Among the
species, most numerous in individuals, that commence
their lively evolutions .towards the decline of day, on the
calm bosom of the ocean, may be mentioned Hyalaa
longirostra, of Leseur, and the beautiful and delicate
Hyalaa trispinosa, of the same naturalist.

On the 10th of June, 1843, we slowly sailed through
the Sunda Straits, the tranquil waters of which were
crowded with myriads of diaphanous Crustacea, of the
genera Erichthw, Phronima, Stenosoma, Alima, Nerocila,
Idotea, Spheroma, and others, creatures ever sparkling
beneath the wave, and glittering, as their glassy shields
reflect the rays of the sun. They swim leisurely in dense
strata near the surface, sinking, however, when the sea is
at all ruffled. M. Risso says, " they empty the pellucid
discs of certain Acaleplice to serve them as canoes,"
which curious circumstance I have been several times
able to confirm. These small isopodous, horny, and
generally-transparent Crustaceans, do not swim like the
Crangon, with the belly upwards, and by sudden jerks
backwards, but propel themselves steadily onwards by
repeated contractions of the post-abdomen, and natatory
caudal appendages. They are exceedingly predatory and
voracious, occasionally seizing Medusa of greater bulk
than themselves, holding them in then- prehensile jaw-
feet, and tearing them in pieces with their mandibles.

On these occasions, one must naturally be impressed
with the astonishing fecundity and diversity of form
exhibited throughout creation. Each portion of the
large masses of floating weed consists, when carefully

SEA-SPIDERS. 245

examined, of a little densely-populated world, being
crowded with living beings, all active and full of bustling
animation ; strange-shaped little fishes, bright sea-slugs,
tiny shells of the Nautilus tribe, grotesque sea-spiders,
and whole gangs of odd crabs, Medmte, and transparent
shrimps. The Podosomatous forms of spider-like Crus-
taceans are very slow and languid in their progression,
moving their slender articulations but feebly, seemingly
as if encumbered by their inordinate length. They hide
in hollow sponges, or the anfractuosities of madrepores
and corallines, and some I have seen take up their abode
among the spines of large Cidares and Echini. Their
habits, are slow, sly, cautious and predatory. We found
them in large numbers in the sea of Mindoro in twenty
fathoms, and sandy bottom, entangled in huge bunches
of pinnatiferous Keratophytes.

In the Straits of Sunda, we obtained by the dredge
several fine specimens of the beautiful Galathea elcgans
of White. It is very active in its movements, darting
backwards by sudden powerful jerks, snapping its chelae
quickly together, and producing a clicking noise. When
swimming, the post-abdomen is first bent under the
body, and again violently forced backwards. In the
recent state, the body of the common variety is yellow,
with three dark-red bands. The post-abdomen is pink.
The chelae are bright pink, and finely marked with
two series of dark-brown irregular spots. The legs
are pink, with a dark stripe on the femur, and a brown
transverse band on the penultimate joint. The under
surface is flesh colour with two longitudinal stripes on
the breast ; frontal spine orange. Near the same spot a

246 PLANTAIN SQUIRREL.

.specimen of that very rare and remarkable Crustacean,
the Tlos muriger, of White, was dredged at a depth of
ten fathoms, associated with specimens of other crabs,
chiefly of the genera Leucosia and Pkilyra. It is as
inert and feeble in its progressive movements as Calappa
or Cryptopodia.

While lying in Welcome Bay, in Java, I obtained from
one of the Javanese, who thronged about us in their
canoes, a very pretty specimen of Squirrel, and as I had
it some time in my possession, for the purpose of ob-
serving its habits, a brief account of this little quadruped
may not prove uninteresting.

The Sciurus bilineatm, or Plantain Squirrel, is con-
stantly kept by the Javanese as a pet. One I had in rny
possession was an amusing little animal, full of frolic, and
playful as a kitten. He never carried his tail over his
back, like the greater number of his consimilars, but would
trail it gracefully along the ground. When angry, he
would dilate this ornamental appendage, and bristle up
the hairs, like an irritated cat. His natural cry was a
weak chirping sound, but when teased beyond his powers
of endurance, he would make a sharp, low, and passionate
noise. He seemed to court caresses, and received them
with pleasure. His food consisted of Bananas and
Cocoa-nuts, which he would usually nibble like a rat,
though sometimes he would place it between his paws.
He was a remarkably cleanly little creature, continually
dressing his fur in the manner of the FclintE. When he
slept, he rolled himself up in a ball like the Dormouse,
with his tail encircling his body. Always active and
blithe, he would sometimes perform feats of extraordinary

WALKING-LEAP INSECT. 247

agility, bounding to great distances, and clinging to every
object within his reach.

The only specimen of Phyttium, or Walking-leaf insect,
whose habits I have had an opportunity of observing,
was given me by the Resident of Anjer, together with
some young Guava plants, on the foliage of which it sub-
sists. It was very inactive during the day, hanging
suspended by its fore-feet to the leaves of the Guava,
but on the approach of night, it would walk about with
an undulating motion of the body, or hanging suspended,
as during the day, would rapidly vibrate its leaf-like
wings, in a tremulous manner. On two occasions it
took short flights, but soon fell to the ground as if ex-
hausted. It feeds voraciously as evening approaches,
biting out large semi-circular bits from the edges of the
leaves. This insect, which was a female, dropped an egg
every night for some time. The egg is in the form of an
elongated, pentagonal cylinder, with the angles winged,
and, like the eggs of other Phasmida, provided with an
operculum at one end. The eggs are white on their first
emission from the body of the mother, but afterwards
become darker and darker until they eventually assume
a brownish-black colour. The ova were retained in the
ovipositor sometimes for half a day, as are those of the
large Blatta, that common nuisance on board ship. The
Phyttium, whose habits are alluded to above, is most
probably a new species, and is in the possession of
Sir Edward Belcher.

At Anjer I had an opportunity of examining the
animal of a very large and handsome species of Margi-
nalia. The Marginella are quicker and more lively in

248 MARGINELLA.

their movements than Cypraa, crawling pretty briskly,
and moving their tentacles in various directions. They
travel much faster than a snail. The two dilated anterior
angles of the foot appear to be endowed with acute sen-
sation, the animal making use of them as feelers. Many
are of the most beautiful, and brilliant colours ; a pale,
semi-transparent, pinkish-yellow mantle, with a range of
semi-elliptic crimson spots around the thin free edge, and
the remainder covered with vertically radiating, linear
spots, and short waved lines of the same colour; the
foot, also of a yellowish delicate pink, is marbled all over
with the deepest and richest crimson, and the same with
the siphon. The tentacles are yellowish, with a row of
marbled crimson spots. The eyes are black, and very
minute. The animal of the species above described, when
roughly handled, retracted itself entirely into the shell.
It was dredged up in three fathoms water, sandy bottom,
not far from Anjer, in Java.

Another species of Marginella, from the east coast
of Africa, is similar to the former, but the foot is rather
more expanded and more rounded behind. The left side
of the mantle is rather more produced over the body of
the shell than the right. The ends of the tentacula, and
siphon, in this species, are yellow, and the basal parts
streaked with carmine. A third species from Unsang,
east coast of Borneo, also taken with the dredge, was of a
light-brown colour, with burnt sienna around the margin
of the mantle.

I may, here, perhaps, introduce a brief notice of the
habits of the Carrier-Trochus, or Phorus, whose history, at
present, is so little known ; on our passage from Singapore

CARRIER-TROCHUS. 249

to Java, numerous specimens were obtained every time
the dredge was used.

The Phori are very numerous in the China and Java
Seas, living in from fifteeen to thirty fathoms water, and
generally preferring a bottom composed of the detritus
of dead shells and sand, mixed with mud. I have
described the animal, for the first time, in the ' Annals
and Magazine of Natural History.' As a curious adapta-
tion of means to answer a certain purpose, the mode of
progression of these singular Mollusks is peculiar, and de-
serving of notice. They crawl like a tortoise, by lifting
and throwing forward the shell, with the tentacles
stretched out, the proboscis bent down and the operculum
trailing behind. As they invariably inhabit places where
the surface is rough, and would not admit of a gliding
motion, nature has ordained that they should progress by
a succession of small jumps, or tumbling evolutions. In
the shortness of the foot, long annulated proboscis, and
cylindrical body, these Mollusks resemble somewhat those
of Imperator, but the sessile eyes, divided foot, and
nature of the operculum, render them a perfectly distinct
family. In the operculum being partially free, they ap-
proximate to Solarium, whilst the short divided foot,
cylindric body, and long extensile trunk, reminds one of
the animal of lanthina. They are small for the size of

v

the shell, and have much the general appearance of the
animal of Strombus, like which they appear to walk, but
their eyes are sessile. In order to enable them to escape
from their enemies, nature has instructed them to cover
their shells with the same materials as those of the banks
which they inhabit. Sometimes for this purpose they

250 STILIFER.

select sand, often small stones, and more frequently the
debris of dead shells, belonging to other genera. The
TJielidomus, which might be considered as the fresh-water
analogue of Phorus, has, I believe, been ascertained to
be formed by the larvae of an insect, thus depriving
Mr. Swainson of a favourite type among Mollusca. The
animals of Phorus are of a dull, opaque-white colour, the
eyes large, and black, and the proboscis pinkish. In
P. onustus of Reeve, the end of the proboscis is yellow, and
the inferior surface pink. The operculum is horny, soft,
and flexible, with concentric and radiating fibres covered
with ridges, formed by the fibres being elevated, one
above the other, in succession.

Among other peculiarities in the habits of Mollusca,
perhaps one of the most striking is the case of Stilifer,
a little parasite that lives upon the juices of, and takes
up its abode in, the coriaceous integument of Star-fishes.
Having, by means of its long, narrow, and slender foot,
insinuated itself among the sutures of the armour the
Asterias is provided with, it forms a snug nest in the soft
parts, where it remains imbedded, with the apex of the
spire just protuding. When placed in a watch-glass,
under the microscope, I observed that it does not appear
to be possessed of the power of locomotion, but that it
extrudes its foot to its greatest extent, and makes use of
it as an exploring organ, moving it about in all directions.

251

CHAPTER II.

BOUNEO.

Arrive at Sarawak — Gigantic Orthoptera — Remarkable Insects —
Curious habit of a Beetle — Prevalence of certain tribes of Insects
— Butterflies — Insects used as Ornaments — A splendid Glow-
worm— Instincts of Spiders — Singular Forms of — Habits of —
The Close-eyed Gudgeon — The Fighting-fish of Siam — The
Organ-fish — Curious Blenny — Thunder Storm — Tree struck by
Lightning — A Man killed — The Crocodile — Nondescript Plant —
Habits of the Musang — The Slow-paced Lemur — The Wou-Wou
The Flying Fox — The Pitcher Plant — Forest Scenery — Exuberant
Vegetation — Aspect of the Woods by Day — Their appearance at
Eve — Nocturnal chorus of Animals — Night Alarms — Gigantic
Lizard — Beautiful Tree-Snake — Enormous Cobra — Capture of a
Python — Adventure with a Snake — Changeable Lizard — The
' Toke '—The Chichak— The Grass Lizard— The Bingkaron—
The Fringed Gecko — The Flying Dragon.

FROM the 19th to the 20th of June we remained at
Singapore, but as we made that busy Emporium of the
East a recruiting port on four separate occasions, I shall,
at present, refrain from offering any remarks on the
natural history of that important little island, nor need
I here detail our proceedings in Borneo, nor expatiate on
the disaster that there awaited our good ship, as all that

252 NEW GRASSHOPPER.

has already received ample justice in the Narrative of
Sir Edward Belcher. The following remarks are the
result of my impressions of scenery, and observation of
various forms of animated nature, with which I became
acquainted during the period of the detention of the ship
at Sarawak.

In the vast forests of the interior of Borneo, there are
found enormous Orthopterous insects, huge Grasshoppers,
as large or larger than sparrows, of inert and somewhat
inactive habits, which hop feebly among the undergrowth,
in damp, dark, shady places. A specimen, presented to
Sir Edward Belcher by Mr. Brooke, at Sarawak, was of
this nature. A giant in size, it measured more than four
inches in length ; the leaping members not being well
developed, the antennae filiform and of great length, and
the colour entirely of a beautiful delicate grass-green.
Unfortunately, this magnificent insect was lost, with very
many other interesting specimens, during the disaster
of the ship in the river. A drawing, which I made
before the occurrence of the accident, shows it to belong
to an apparently new genus, placed somewhere between
Steirodon and Phyttoptera, and, should it eventually prove
such, I would suggest to its fortunate re-discoverer, that
it should be named Megalacris Brookei, in honour of the
philanthropic and talented Rajah of Sarawak, who first
procured it from Dyaks, who brought it from the interior
of the island. Orthopterous insects swarm in many
parts of Borneo, and among others which I have ob-
served may be mentioned, as being of especial interest, a
Gryttacris with dark chesnut bands on the elytra, and an
orange body ; a new and singular Gryttacris covered all

VARIOUS INSECTS. 253

over with a velvety coat, like the Mole-cricket ; an elegant
Phyttoptera, with bright, yellowish-green, semi-pellucid
wings, and the head and thorax covered with small,
raised pustules ; a golden-brown Acheta, a very pretty,
lively insect which takes prodigious leaps; a singular
Cyphocrania, with the back of the head produced into a
horn, and long reticulated, semi-opaque, brown wings ;
and a new species of Blepharis, an insect apparently
made up of so many withered leaves, which crawls very
slowly among the foliage of the low trees, and takes
short feeble flights like an Empusa. The chief use of
the Geotrupida, and other coprophagous Beetles, in tro-
pical countries, would seem to be not so much to remove
excrementitious matter from the surface of the earth, as
to spread it abroad for the purpose of manuring the soil.
This they effect by first collecting it in convenient round
balls, or masses, in which they deposit their eggs, and
then, rolling them along with their hind legs, they bury
them in different places in the ground. Such was the
useful occupation in which I found a species of Gymno-
pleurus engaged, under the shade of a grove of Casuarina
trees, where the ground was covered in many places
with large quantities of the dung of wild boars and of
deer, which dozens of these indefatigable black-coated
gentry were carefully spreading over the soil.

From the chrysalis of the only species of the Sphynx
Moth I had observed in Borneo, and treasured by me
with great care, emerged, after the lapse of a considerable
time, two individuals of that odd-shaped, cosmopolite,
hymenopterous insect, the Evania appcndigaster \ The
coprophagous Beetles, and the scavenger Stapliylinidce,

254 BUTTERFLIES.

Silphida, and carnivorous Carabida, are by no means
numerous in Borneo, their place being more than occu-
pied by the myriad Termites, Ants, and other insects
that keep the surface free from putrefying objects. The
Lamellicorns and other vegetable feeders are, on the con-
trary, very common forms, and, in conjunction with in-
numerable species of Orthoptera, feed upon the plentiful
supply Nature has provided for their use, in the vast
forests that everywhere clothe the surface of this fine
island.

Enormous diurnal Lepidoptera, the handsome, great
Ornithopteri, are generally noticed flapping lazily their
large, broad wings in the dark mazes of the forests,
sweeping above the low trees, and avoiding the climbers
and branches of the taller trees, with a singular bat-like
dexterity ; although tolerably numerous, the Butterflies,
however, cannot vie with those of Tropical America.
In a ramble through the woods, near Santubon, I pro-
cured specimens of a rare and splendid species of Pyca-
num, allied to P. ametkystinum of Fabricius, having
bright, burnished, emerald-green elytra, and the body
ornamented on each side with alternate bands of black
and orange. The P. amethystinum is sometimes set in a
brooch, as among certain Indian tribes are the Buprestis
chrysis and the Diamond Beetle. In the Philippines, the
beautiful, polished, green species of Stephanorhina, and
the handsome Caryphocera, with large black blotches on
the elytra, are also held in much estimation, and are
preserved in a dry state as ornaments. One of the most
common Hemipterous insects (which, taken as a class,
not only appear to be very numerous in Borneo, but also

GLOW-WORM. 255

very curious in form and brilliant in colour) is a species
of CatacantJius allied to C. aurantius of Fabricius, with
a bright yellow thorax, two black spots on the elytra,
and the margin of the abdomen marked with alternate
bands of light, clear, semi-transparent yellow and deep
shining black ; a very pretty species of Cattidea, a genus
belonging to the ScuteHerida, of a burnished golden
green, with large, round, black spots, is also very common
in the woods throughout the territory of Sarawak. But,
perhaps, one of the most beautiful insects observed by
me while staying in this part of Borneo, was a Glow-
worm, two females of which were in my possession. In
this splendid Lampyris, each segment of the body is illu-
minated with three lines of tiny lamps, the luminous spots
on the back being situated at the posterior part of the
segmentary rings in the median line, while those along
the sides of the animal are placed immediately below the
stomates or spiracula, each spiraculum having one bright
spot. This very beautiful insect was found shining as
the darkness was coming on, crawling on the narrow
pathway, and glowing among the dead, damp wood, and
rotten leaves. When placed around the finger, it re-
sembles, in beauty and brilliancy, a superb diamond ring.
The Spiders constitute another highly amusing study for
the entomologist in these regions, so dismissing for the
present, our tiny friends the Ptilota, or winged insects,
let us regard a few of these Apterous forms, usually con-
sidered so repulsive, the Spiders.

In consideration of their apparently helpless condition,
and the soft nature of their integuments, Nature, always
inclined to protect the weak and helpless, has given the

256 SPIDERS.

Spiders a multitude of wonderful instincts, by means of
which they are enabled to defend themselves from injury,
provide themselves with food, and furnish safe retreats
for their tender progeny. They spin their toils of cunning
device, and even powerful insects, armed with formidable
stings, are made captive with impunity, despite their
struggles to escape the captor. These Spiders' webs
generally attract the attention of travellers, and, certainly
in some parts of the forests of Mindanao, Borneo, and
Celebes, there is great and wonderful diversity in the
form and construction of these ingenious and delicately-
woven nets. ' Many have black webs, some have white,
others brown, and in Mindanao I have observed toils
formed of perfectly yellow threads. The nets of the
great species of Nephila, which abound in equatorial
regions, frequently stretch across the path, from bush to
bush, and prove very troublesome to the naturalist while
threading the thickets where they are numerous.

The imagination can scarcely conceive the bizarre,
and fantastic shapes with which it has pleased Nature
to invest those hard -bodied Spiders, called by naturalists
Acrosoma. They have large, angular spines sticking
out of their bodies, in every kind of fashion, perhaps
intended as some sort of defence against the soft-billed
birds, which doubtless would otherwise make dainty
meals of these Arachnidans, exposed as they are, tempt-
ingly suspended in mid air, on their transparent webs
in the forest glades. Some are protected by these long
spines to such a degree, that their bodies resemble a
miniature " cheveux de frise ", and could not, by any
possibility be swallowed by a bird without producing a

CLOSE-EYED GUDGEON. 257

very unpleasant sensation in his throat. One very re-
markable species (Gasteracantha arcuata, Koch) has two
enormous, recurved, conical spines, proceeding upwards
from the posterior part of the body, several times longer
than the entire Spider. The Drassi are gloomy Spiders,
haunting obscure places, and their garb is dark coloured
and dingy in accordance with their habits. They are
mostly pale brown, black, dull red, or grey. The Thomisi
are varied in their colour, in harmony with their usual
abiding places. Thus, those that spend their lives among
the flowers and foliage of the trees, are delicately and
beautifully marked with green, orange, black, and yellow.
One species, which I have named T. virescens, simulates
the vegetation among which it lives, is not agile in its
movements, but drops, when alarmed, among the foliage ;
it is of a pale delicate semi-transparent sap-green, with
the eyes and chelicera red ; there is a large mark on the
surface of the abdomen, beautifully variegated with
yellow, pink, and black, and margined with dead-white
spots; the under surface is green in the middle and
opaque white on either side ; the spinneret is pink.

A few observations on the Periophthalmus, or Close-
eyed Gudgeon, and some other remarkable ichthyological
forms which I have noticed in this part of Borneo, may
not, perhaps, be altogether uninteresting to some of my
readers.

About every group of rocks large numbers of hand-
somely-coloured fishes play, and dart among the Corallines
and Algae, some with rays of black and orange ; some
azure with transparent fins , some yellow, others resem-
bling in brilliancy of tint the parrots, the loris, and

VOL. II. S

258 " JUMPING JOHNNY."

sun-birds of the forests. Those that live in shallow
water are brightly coloured, whilst those dwelling in the
high seas, out of soundings, are generally of a dull or
sombre hue.

One of the greatest ichthyological oddities one meets
with in the tropics, is the close-eyed Gudgeon (Perioph-
thalmus). On every slimy bank, among the Mangrove
swamps, and on the muddy borders of ditches, the
curious eye will detect the shiny, uncouth form of this
grotesque, amphibious fish, jumping about like a frog, or
sliding awkwardly along on its belly, with a gliding
motion. It is equally at home on the " beached margent
of the sea," where it is seen skimming along the surface
of the water, or jumping and leaping from stone to
stone. By means of its pectoral fins it is enabled to
climb, with great facility, among the tangled roots of the
Mangroves, where it finds a goodly harvest of minute
Crustacea. Crabs and worms do not, however, constitute
its only food, for I have found in the stomachs of some
I examined, insects in both the imago and larval state.

The sailors call the Periophtkamus " Jumping Johnny ",
and appear very much amused at its wary cunning, and
surprising efforts to escape capture. I have, however, seen
parties of Dyaks pursuing the larger species over the wide
mud-flats, and capture them with the greatest dexterity.
Many other fish, besides the Periophthalmus, have the same
power of living for a time out of their native element,
among which may be mentioned Ophiocephalus, Macro-
podus, Helostoma, Anabas, and Cafy 'acanthus. Pliny was
aware of this fact, which he thus alludes to, " Quin et in

FIGHTING-FISH. 259

Indiae fluminibus certum genus piscium, ac deinde re-
silit."*

Another very singular little fish is the Fighting-fish,
which is kept in vessels of water for the amusement of
the Malays. If irritated, it immediately changes colour,
passing through shades of the most varied and brilliant
tints. When two of them meet, they fight with the
bitterest animosity, darting at each other with the swift-
ness of thought, the victor frequently killing his adver-
sary. They feed on small flies and worms, and are
easily preserved in glass vessels. A curious species of
Blenny is very common on the coast, hiding in the deep
cylindrical holes in the shallow pools left at low water, at
the orifices of which they may be observed protuding their
obtuse noses, and tentacular filaments, using them as a
decoy or bait like that famous angler the Pishing Prog
(Lophius piscatorius). The small fry swimming past
these tempting lures, are attracted towards them, when
the hidden Blenny suddenly darts upon them with the
greatest velocity, and drags them into its den, there to
consume them. So excessively cunning, active, and wary,
is this little Blenny, that all my endeavours to procure
a specimen proved unavailing. On the 31st of August,
1843, while on board the Brig 'Ariel', then lying off the
mouth of the river of Borneo, I had the good fortune to
hear that solemn aquatic concert of the far-famed Organ-
fish, or " Drum ", a species of Pogonias. These singular
fishes produce a loud, monotonous, singing sound, which
rises and falls, and sometimes dies away, or assumes a
very low drumming character, and the noise appears to
* Hist. Nat. Lib. ix. C. 35.
s2

260 SUBMARINE MUSIC.

proceed mysteriously from the bottom of the vessel. This
strange sub-marine chorus of fishes continued to amuse
us for about a quarter of an hour, when the music, if so
it might be called, suddenly ceased, probably on the
dispersion of the band of performers.

The peaceful avocations of the student of nature, when
engaged in active service, may sometimes be interrupted
by disastrous events, an example of which I shall here
relate \ nor is it the only instance in which, in my capa-
city of Assistant Surgeon, I have been a party concerned.
The incident I allude to, occurred one night during one
of the most tremendous storms I have witnessed in
Borneo, while the 'Samarang' was anchored off the
Santubong entrance of the Sarawak river. The horizon
was overcast long before the storm burst forth, and a
portentous lowering gloom gathered in every direction,
but when the rain came down in torrents, and as it does
only in the tropics, the sky was like an universal pall,
spread out over nature, or a hugh black curtain, shutting
out the stars of heaven, illumined only now and then by
vivid and continuous flashes of forked lightning, followed
by terrific peals of thunder, which seemed to shake the
earth.

The surface of the ocean was violently disturbed, and
lashed into foam by the driving gale, and on the shore
the lightning had struck a huge Casuarina tree, under
which our carpenters, who were cutting wood here, had
erected their tent, and had fallen and crushed a poor
Dutchman, as he lay on the sand at its root. On my
proceeding in the barge to his assistance, the fury of the
sweeping blast throwing the spray about, contrasting

RIVER BANKS. 261

with the tossing of the dark forest trees, formed a wild
and most magnificent scene. The poor man was so
dreadfully mangled as to be beyond the aid of surgery,
and expired shortly after my arrival at the spot.

Many of the rivers of Borneo have low, swampy
banks, over-hung sometimes by the dark foliage, twisted
branches, and snake-like roots of the Mangrove, or
fringed on either side by dense clustering masses of the
elegant and useful Nipa Palm (Nypafruticans). On the
ebbing of the tide there is, moreover, a margin of soft and
slimy mud, abounding with various Crustaceans, some of
a beautiful blue colour, which live in holes, and, hopping
about.on their pectoral fins, are the Periophthalmi. Neri-
tina crepidularia adheres to the petioles of the Nipa
leaves, Cerithium truncatum to the foliage, and now and
then the plunge of a Hydrosaurm may startle the ob-
server. On one occasion I observed a Crocodile extended
quietly on his belly in the soft mud ; I stood still,
watching him as he lay extended in listless ease, with his
long, lank jaws, and dusky-brown, scaly skin, in bold
relief against the mud, and as he turned his head slowly
and espied me with his dull lurid eye, he bent his nose
close to the surface of the ground, lashed his compressed
tail from side to side, and wallowing, retired into the dark
still waters. One of these reptiles was in my possession
alive, but as the Dyaks had firmly secured his jaws with
a rattan muzzle, there was little to fear from his ferocity.
He was very soon, however, offered up as a victim on the
altar of science.

The novelty of Mr. Waterton's exploit, of riding upon

262 CURIOUS PLANT.

a Cayman's back, is not quite so great as many people
imagine. Pliny relates that the Tentyrita were in the
habit of jumping into the river Nile, and riding on the
backs of the Crocodiles, and when, moreover, these savage
Saurian* turned their heads for the purpose of biting their
unwelcome burden, the ingenious riders placed a stick in
the mouth and held the ends with their hands, thus
bringing the vanquished reptile to the shore, as if with
bit and bridle.

In the course of an excursion up the Sarawak river, in
company with Sir Edward Belcher and Mr. Brooke, I
found a large and very singular flower, growing in a dark
damp forest, on the side of a hill, not far from the moun-
tain of Serambo, in Borneo. It sprung from the exposed
root of a tall tree with large light green leaves, in the
manner of some gigantic epiphyte or rhizanth. The
flower was about sixteen inches in length, of a hard,
dense consistence, and of a light reddish-brown colour,
deepening towards the summit. The buds were like the
full-blown flower in appearance, of the same dirty red
colour, but closed at the upper extremity. Travelling
through the forest on foot, and requiring to undergo con-
siderable fatigue, I was enabled to preserve or more mi-
nutely examine this vegetable wonder. I carried it to
the village, where it did not appear to excite much inte-
rest, and after making a rough sketch of it, I abandoned
it to its fate ; I simply allude to the fact here in the hope
that another botanist, more fortunate, may fall in with
the plant again, and make it better known.

My opportunities of observing the habits of the mam-
miferous animals of Borneo, were neither very numerous

HABITS OF THE MUSANG. 263

or favourable. I may, however, mention a few peculiari-
ties in the economy of some whose acquaintance I culti-
vated, which may, perhaps, serve to amuse the reader.
A Musang, as the Malays term it, (Viverra musangd)
during the time it was in my possession, afforded much
amusement, and deserves honourable mention at my
hands. In many of his manners he resembled the Man-
gusta, or Indian Ichneumon, placing his nose low, and
trailing his tail along the ground. When annoyed, how-
ever, he arched his back, bristled his hairs, and dilated his
tail in the manner of an angry cat, and would spit and
bite very severely. He would also gambol like a kitten,
and bite the fingers gently with his sharp white teeth.
He climbed with great facility, and was perfectly at home
among the rigging of the ship. He was an inquisitive
and cunning little animal, ferreting out everything edible,
rifling the messes of the seamen, especially their sugar,
and sucking the eggs^ belonging to the stewards. For
these petty thefts he has been flung over-board several
times, but swimming with ease and rapidity, he ascended
by the rudder-chains, shook himself, and resumed his
ordinary peculations. On one occasion an enemy having
thrown him into the sea, a friendly cook gave him a rope,
when he climbed nimbly inboard, and was saved. One
ill-fated day he ventured into the holy precincts of the
Captain's cabin, in pursuit of a rat, overthrew some
bottles, and shortly afterwards, being detected in the yet
more heinous offence of stealing the Captain's Pigeons,
his death-warrant was signed, and he was accordingly
executed by the sentry of the galley.

As an instance of the 'poor Musang's cunning, I may

264 SLOW-PACED LEMUR.

mention that he was observed to descend into a boat,
purloin a Banana, quietly stow it among the booms,
and repeat the process till he had accumulated a pretty
large store, when he leisurely commenced consuming the
grateful fruit till not one remained.

On my last visit to Sarawak, my friend Ruppell pre-
sented me with two live specimens of the slow-paced
Lemur (Stenops tardigradus}. They are stupid, quiet,
gentle, little quadrumanes, with beautiful, soft, woolly
fur, and enormous black eyes. Their common cry is a
peculiar, faint, wailing sound, but when angry, they
make a chattering noise. They are quite torpid during
the day, but tolerably active after nightfall. The female
gave birth to two young ones, very helpless little creatures,
which clung tenaciously to their mother's soft fur, in any
position, sometimes on the sides, and often under the
belly. Both the parents and young ones, however, soon
went the way of all pets, and their dried skins are the
only evidence of their former existence.

I have often observed the Wou-wou (Hylobates leu-
cisus) in its sylvan haunts, and unlike the Hylobates
agilis, which M. Dauvancel says is shy in its habits, it will
hang suspended by its long arms, and swinging to and
fro in the air, allow you to approach within fifty yards, and
then suddenly drop upon a lower branch, and climb
again leisurely to the top of the tree. It is a quiet, soli-
tary creature, of a melancholy, peaceful nature, pursuing
a harmless life, feeding upon fruits in the vast untrodden
recesses of the forest, and its peculiar noise is in harmony
with the sombre stillness of these dim regions ; it com-
mences like the gurgling of water, when a bottle is being

FLYING-FOX. 265

filled, and ends with a loud, long, wailing cry, which re-
sounds throughout the leafy solitude to a great distance,
and is sometimes responded to from the depths of the
forest by another note as wild and melancholy.

I saw the Galugo (Galeopithecus) both in Borneo and
Basilan in a wild state. It is crepuscular, and hangs
suspended during the day to the under surface of boughs
in the tops of high trees. When it moves, it seems to
shuffle and scramble among the leaves, and sometimes
drops suddenly from its elevated position. It feeds on
leaves, and the stomach of one I examined was filled with
remains of the foliage of Artocarpus, and other trees.
The Spanish Officers at Basilan shoot large numbers of
Galeopitheci for the sake of their beautiful skins, though
in an excursion I made with them we were not able to
procure a single specimen. At Sarawak I had a living
Galeopithecus ', or Fying Fox, in my possession, which was
procured on the occasion of felling some trees, in the top
of one of which the animal was suspended. It was very
inactive on the ground, and did not attempt to bite or
resist. Having probably received some internal injury, it
shortly died. On examining the body, I found it was a
female with young ; the embryos, two in number, appeared
to have the lateral expansion of the skin as in the adult.

Among the numerous rare and interesting vegetable
productions to be found in Borneo, is the " Daum gundi,"
or Monkey-cup of the Malays, the Pitcher plant of the
English (Nepenthes destillatoria, and other species,). It
is a very common plant in the Sarawak territory, where
it may be seen, with its curiously-formed leaves, clinging
to the trunks and foliage of the trees that fringe the

266 PITCHER PLANT.

banks of the rivers, or in the interior of the forest. The
Nepenthes has been frequently and well described, but as
I have seen it growing in dense masses, in every stage of
developement, a short notice of this very remarkable plant
may not be found uninteresting. Besides the N. destil-
latoria I have observed another species, particularly com-
mon on the Island of Moarra, near the mouth of the river
of Borneo. This kind has narrower leaves, is a smaller
plant, but climbs in the same manner, and has small,
long, narrow pitchers. Both species are slender twining
plants, chiefly supported by the shrubs that grow around
by the twisting of the stalks of the pitchers. The flowers
are simple perianths, consisting of four sepals, of a brick-
red colour, with a yellow stigma, arranged in terminal
spikes, which grow upright and crown the summit of the
plant. The young plants have only the round, gib-
bose, and fringed pitchers. There are two kinds of
pitchers in each species, one growing at some distance
from the ground, which is long, slender, and usually
green, or marbled, spotted at the mouth only, and fur-
nished with a very long foot-stalk; the other kind is
formed of the lower leaves, and is generally placed upon
or near the surface of the ground. These latter Monkey-
cups, as the Malays term them, are most generally half-
full of insects, chiefly ants. The pitchers, when full-
grown, almost invariably contain fluid, in different
proportions. In some cups there is nearly an ounce, in
others only a few drachms. Many of them contain
insects, which if not killed, find it difficult to escape out
of the limpid and musilaginous liquid. In one pitcher
I found five crickets, hundreds of small ants, mostly dead,

CAPACITY FOB HOLDING WATER. 267

and numerous larvae of mosquitoes and other gnats. The
cups near the ground frequently contain living larvae of
dipterous insects ; while the young and elevated cups
are free from them, and contain pure limpid water. The
appearance of these beautiful and delicately-formed vege-
table vases is extremely interesting and singular as they
hang suspended by their fragile handles, offering a cooling
draft to the different animals that frequent the neigh-
bourhood. By pouring the water of several dozens of
pitchers into one of large size, I have several times suc-
ceeded in quenching my thirst with a good half-pint.
Many of the full-sized cups will hold considerably more
than a pint.

In an account of Balambangan, by Lieut. James Barton
(' Oriental Repertory/ vol. ii.) there is a very amusing
statement respecting this plant. He observes, "The
northern part is over-run with various species of the Ne-
penthes ; but whether the abundance of water is derived
from thence, or whether they be the consequence of the
abundance of water, must be left to the decision of
naturalists ! some caution ", he adds, " may be prudent
in rooting them up, lest the former should be the case."
Many other plants are furnished with pitcher-shaped
leaves besides the Nepenthes, as the Cephalotus, of New
Holland, the Sarracenias, or Side-saddle flowers, and
the Dischidia Rafflesiana, which I have found growing in
the forests of Celebes, climbing about the trees, with its
singular leathery pitchers partly filled with a limpid fluid,
and surrounded with fibrous roots. In the ' Oriental
Repertory ' (vol. ii.) a kind of cane, called " Tugal " by
the natives of the Sooloo Islands, is alluded to, which

268 ORIENTAL FORESTS.

when cut through, will, it is said, furnish an abundance of
clear water, and in the same paper is mentioned a certain
creeping plant, termed " Bahaumpul ", which, on being
divided, yields a quantity of slightly gummy water.

Although forest-scenery, with its luxuriant vegetation
has been so often, and so well described, I cannot resist
the inclination to give my own impression of those vast
and solemn temples " not made with hands ", which will,
moreover, tend to show the great similarity which exists
with respect to the grander and more important features
between all primeval forests, whether in the Eastern
Archipelago or in the Western Hemisphere.

In the forests of Celebes, Mindanao, and Borneo,
besides the eternal ringing song of the shrill Cicada, a
solitary note is sometimes heard from some high tree-
top, or a loud, long whine, from the depths of the dark
and sombre forest. The aged trunks are hung with
Orchideous epiphytes, and variegated with Lichens, while
on the humid soil, dark fetid Fungi, nauseous, and mis-
shapen, spread their dingy forms. A shy Lizard, scaling
a naked trunk, or huge Mattes, running among the dead
leaves, will startle you for a moment. The Honey-Bee
secures its hoard high in the summit of some leafy bough;
the White- Ant builds its cumbrous nest about the knotted
roots; and, in among the tangled maze, huge Spiders
spin their subtle toils. Here and there, the ground is
furrowed by the Wild Boar's snout, or, where the Man-
groves spread their roots, painted Gelasimi, or Land-
Crabs, holding up their one huge pincer, in a manner
perfectly ludicrous, though meant to be threatening, are
scampering about in all directions. Occasionally you

ABERRATION OF GROWTH. 269

notice one of those silent over-growings of vegetation,
where the form of some Titanic tree is strangely distorted,
" with knots and knares deformed and old," or some trunk
embraced in the python folds of an enormous Creeper.
I remember seeing, at Tanjong Datu, a tree, of large
dimensions, growing on the top of an enormous granitic
boulder, the roots of which, descending in the form of long
ropes, buried themselves in the ground, thus supporting
the tree in a perpendicular position.

These aberrations of growth, are frequently met with
in the tropical forests, where great heat prevails, and the
ground is always moist. Although usually dim, and
often nearly dark, these woods are sometimes illumined
by a transient streak of light " fair vistas shooting beams
of day ", and on the leaves, where the sunbeams play,
showy Diptera are to be captured, and, numbers of
Buprestidce, with glittering metallic wings. Generally,
however, with the exception of the loud song of our
merry friend, the Cicada, an unbroken silence reigns
throughout the forest, which is very solemn and im-
pressive. But as the evening breeze sets in, this silent
majesty of the woods is disturbed by the harsh notes of
the Horn-bill (Buceros Rhinoceros and Astracius), the
screaming of Loris, and the chattering of Monkeys in the
trees. The wood-paths are become instinct with life, and
now is heard the whistle and the song, the shrilly cry,
and gurgling, mellow sound, the loud shriek, and all the
varied notes of the " plumy people of the grove."

More particularly during the period of the immersion
of our good ship, had I an opportunity of examining some
of the peculiarities of tropic scenes and scenery, and what

270 FLYING-FOXES.

particularly reminded me of our novel position, were
certain remarkable differences in the natural phenomena
at the close of day, between Sarawak in Borneo, and
Hampshire in England. In England, for example, the
bats are on the move, dashing wildly under the foliage of
the trees, but here we see enormous Pteropi or Flying-
Foxes, soaring high above our heads, with steady, flapping
fright; the Mosquitoes begin to sound their shrilly
trumpets ; the " Chichak " chirps as he darts across the
ceiling ; the Glow-worms shine ; the Fire-flies glitter on
the trees; the warty Toad unveils his form, and the
Polydesmus and Zephronia venture forth to feed.* I
remember, on one occasion, while out on an anti-piratical
expedition, about sixty miles up the river Linga, being
particularly struck with the appearance of a tropical
forest by night. On every side, the dim and shadowy
trees stood out like ghosts, perfectly still, and lighted
up occasionally by dense clouds of Fire-flies ; the ground
on every side, for many hundred yards, was a watery
swamp, giving birth to myriads of Mosquitoes, and slime-
bred animals of every description. Occasionally, we
were awoke from our deepest slumbers, by the shrieks
of wild animals, and the croaking din of innumerable
frogs, but more frequently than all, by certain "grey-
coated trumpeters ", as Milton calls the gnats. I had

* A new species of Polydesmus from Borneo in the British Museum,
I have named P. Newporti after Mr. Newport, who has particularly
devoted himself to the study of the Myriapoda. A new and large
species of Zephronia in the same collection, and from the same island,
I have named Zephronia gigas. I may here inform the less scientific
reader, that the first named insect resembles a Centipede, and the latter
a Wood-louse more than an inch in length.

MOSQUITOES. 271

heard of the body-louse and chigger, the red acarus, and
the Sand-fly, but what are they compared with the
Mosquito? I remember well on the present occasion
exclaiming in a rage, " Ah ! infernal Mosquito ! when
' thy shrill horn its fearful larum flings ', driving all sleep
from weary eyes, and making the night pass away as a
long and feverish, fitful dream, surely thou art a demon
of the Insect- world ". I have seen the faces of myself
and some of my messmates, appear in the morning, as if
they had the small-pox, their countenances being inflamed,
swollen, and covered with white tubercles, and that
during a single night ! In England, when the sun de-
clines, scarcely a sound echoes to the "dull ear of the
night-cradled earth ", but in Borneo, as soon as daylight
begins to wane, a strange nocturnal chorus fills the air,
which continues, without intermission, until the morning.
The performers in this chorus of " beings of the night's
shadows" are very numerous, and each has a distinct
part assigned to him. A subterranean Beetle "opens
the ball " from the dark bosom of the earth, producing a
loud, continuous, singing noise, made mellow and
booming by the winding of his cavern. The Frogs follow
up closely this first musical indication, making the swamps
resound with their harsh croakings. The mournful note
of the Goat-sucker crying out monotonously at intervals,
echoes dismally around ; the Cicadae not yet tired with
their long day's work make the dim shades resound with
their long loud song; the Grass-hoppers, long-legged
Choristers, in their merry way, chirp with all their might ;
one monotonous continued wailing cry uttered by some
unknown songster continues the live-long night; now

272 NIGHT IN THE FORESTS.

you will hear an interrupted hissing whirring sound from
some huge locust; now a loud and silvery chirp; then
a soft and gentle sibillant sound ; anon a harsh croak, a
distant yell, or a low gurgling gutteral cry.

The entire symphony, if so it may be called, this " re-
quiem to the day's decline " heard at a distance reminds
one of that peculiar sensation termed a " ringing in the
ears "; there is no cessation, no rest, no respite ; still the
noise continues, sometimes growing louder, then drooping
and dying away, then bursting forth again as if with
renewed enegy ; in fact, I believe each performer tries to
emulate the others, giving out great impulsive strains
at intervals.

Twice was the midnight tranquility of "Cockpit
Hall." disturbed by the visits of a Porcupine, that was
accustomed to wander in a half-tame condition about
the jungle in the neighbourhood, and as these night
alarms afforded us some amusement, I shall relate them
to my readers. Our house, like other Malay and Dyak
dwellings, was, of course, raised on posts from the ground,
the space below being occupied by pigs and poultry.
Now it happened, as we slept one night on the floor above,
dreadful whirring noises, attended by loud gruntings,
and hurrey-skurreyings were heard all about the enclosure
beneath the house. Anticipating a hunt, I descended
our rude ladder, and, followed by a little volunteer with
a lantern, crept through the wicket, but instead of fronting
a wild Boar or Cat-of-the-woods, my knife encountered
merely the quills of the Porcupine, which having entered
our premises to forage, could not easily find his way out
again. On another occasion, we were awoke by strange,

• PORCUPINES. 273

unearthly noises, somewhat resembling the grunt of a
hog, mingled with sundry guttural and wheezing notes,
gradually approaching our quarters from the jungle at
the back. A small hunting party was soon organized,
and sallied out in chase. The sounds grew nearer and
nearer, when suddenly, a rustling noise was heard, the
bushes shook, and out rushed the object of our alarm, in
the shape of a Porcupine ! These animals, like Hedge-
hogs, appear to be almost entirely nocturnal in their
habits, and I had no idea that the quiet creatures one
sees in Menageries, were in the practice in a wild state,
of making such hideous noises, and of trotting about with
so much animation. On another occasion, a reptile, des-
cribed as a gigantic Iguana, having been seen in the
neighbourhood of our dwelling at Sarawak, I was anxious
to procure it, as I conceived it must be a large species of
Hydrosaums, or Lace-lizard. For this purpose, I watched
two days by the side of a spring, which I fancied the
reptile would select as his head-quarters during his stay
in our neighbourhood, this being a peculiarity of these
creatures, and on the third day, sure enough, he came,
trotting leisurely along, and stretched himself at full
length on the brink :

"Nunc etiam in gelida sede lacerta latet ".
Throwing myself on him, I wounded him with a clasp-
knife in the tail, but he managed to elude my grasp, and
made for the woods. I succeeded, however, in tracking
his retreating form, on hands and knees, through a low,
covered labyrinth, in the dense undergrowth, until I
saw him extended on a log, when leaving the jungle, I
called my servant, a Marine, who was shooting specimens

VOL. II T

274 ENCOUNTER WITH A LIZARD.

for me, and, pointing out the couchant animal, desired
him to shoot him in the neck, as I did not wish the head to
be injured, which he accordingly did. Entering the jungle,
I then closed with the wounded Saurian, and, seizing
him by the throat, bore him in triumph to our quarters.
Here he soon recovered, and hoping to preserve him
alive, to study his habits, I placed him in a Malay wicker
hen-coop. As we were sitting, however, at dinner, the
black cook, with great alarm depicted in his features, re-
ported that "Alligata get out his cage." Seizing the
carving knife, I rushed down, and was just in time to cut
off his retreat into the adjoining swamp. Turning
sharply round, he made a snap at my leg, and received
in return a " Rowland for his Oliver," in the shape of
an inch or so of cold steel. After wrestling on the
ground, and struggling through the deserted fire of our
sable cook, I at length secured the runaway, tied him up
to a post, and to prevent further mischief, ended his career
by dividing the jugular. The length of this Lizard, from
actural measurement, was five feet ten inches and a half.
These gigantic Lizards (Hydrosanrus giganteu£) are
rather shy and reserved in their habits, and not very
agile in their movements. They affect a swampy habitat,
frequenting the low river banks, or the margins of springs,
and although I have seen them basking on rocks, or on
the dead trunk of some prostrate tree, in the heat of the
sun, yet they appear more partial to the damp weeds
and undergrowth in the vicinity of water. Many,
indeed, are pre-eminently aquatic, as I have noticed in
the rivers of Celebes and Mindanao. Their gait has
somewhat more of the awkward lateral motion of the

MONITORS. 275

Crocodile, than of the lively action of the smaller Saurians.
When attacked, they lash violently with their tail,
swaying it side- ways with great force, like the Cayman.
These modern types of the Mososaurus and Iguanodon
have a graceful habit of extending the neck and raising
the head to look about them, and as you follow them
leisurely over the rocks or through the jungle, they
frequently stop, turn their heads round, and take a
deliberate survey of the intruder. They are by no means
vicious, though they bite with severity when provoked,
acting, however, always on the defensive. On examining
their stomachs, Crabs, Locusts, Beetles, and the remains
of the Periopkthalmus, or Jumping-Fish, the scales of
Snakes, and bones of Frogs and other small animals were
discovered. Like that of the Iguana of the New World,
the flesh of these Saurians is delicate eating; I can
compare it to nothing better than that of a very young
sucking-pig.

At the island of Mayo we landed amid the surf, upon
a group of high, bare rocks covered with Chitons, Litto-
rince and Nerites, with large painted Grapsi running
about in all directions. As I climbed the rugged accli-
vity, a huge Monitor Lizard, upwards of five feet in
length, disturbed in his noonday siesta, made off to a
swampy ravine on the other side, climbing the perpendi-
cular ascent with awkward activity, and stopping now
and then to look round and examine his pursuer. The
romantic chine in which he finally disappeared was
abundantly supplied with trickling rivulets, that came
tumbling down among enormous boulders, from their
sources in green clumps of tall Pandanm trees, springing

T 2

276 HYDROSAURI.

from the height above. The specimen of Hydrosaurus
giganteus, from the north coast of New Holland, in the
British Museum, is seventy-eight inches in length.
Many African species, as, for example, the white-throated
Regenia (R. albogularis) and the Nilotic Monitor (M. Ni-
loticus), also attain a great size. How admirably adapted
are these semi-aquatic, dingy-hued Saurians to the hot,
moist swamps and shallow log-laden lagoons that fringe
the rivers of this densely-wooded island ! The imagination
is carried back, while contemplating the dark forms of
these Hydrosauri plunging and wallowing in the water,
or trotting along deliberately over the soft and slimy
mud, to that " Age of Reptiles " in the world's infancy,
when the vast muddy shores of the primeval ocean
were peopled by those lazy lizard-like monsters, and
slow-moving giant Efts, the Mososaurus, which must
have been between the Monitor and Iguana, twenty-
five feet long with a laterally compressed tail ; the Sau-
rodon with its lizard-like teeth; and the Dinosauria
and Megalosaurus, large carnivorous Crocodile-Lizards.
Along the banks of the fresh-water rivulets of Mindanao,
numbers of these great water-loving Lizards are seen,
plunging and diving in the dark, still streams, basking
on the banks, trotting among the" foliage, or lying
flat on their bellies upon the treees thrown across the
rivers and stagnant ponds Among these I think I re-
cognised the two-streaked Lace-Lizard (Hydrosaurus Sal-
vator) and another smaller species, entirely of a dull-
brown, In the stream that runs through the village of
Anjer, in Java, I noticed also numerous Saurians of this
group, of somewhat more sluggish movements, most pro-

TREE-SNAKES. 277

bably Uramts heraldicus, and other species closely allied.
When wounded, these large Lizards bite very severely, but
unless provoked are perfectly harmless . They are easily shot,
but it is not without some difficulty they are caught alive.
Among the most active and graceful of the Tree-
Snakes to be found in Borneo is the DryiopMs nasuta, a
slender, grass-green reptile, with a yellow line extending
along the sides, and with the muzzle prolonged into a
sharp-pointed snout. I had two of these beautiful
creatures in my possession, at different times, one from
Borneo, and the other from Celebes. The Dyaks, when
they presented me with the Bornean variety, carefully
secured in a joint of bamboo, with a cork made of rolled
up leaves, considered it to be highly venomous, and were
greatly surprised at observing me playing with, and
teazing it, most probably confounding it with a green
species of Megcera, which is poisonous, and which I have
also seen in Borneo. The Dryiopliis, however, is perfectly
innocuous, and is, to boot, one of the most graceful
reptiles that glide upon the ground ; Satan might have
assumed its form when he courted the notice and admi-
ration of our common mother. It is a very active and
playful Serpent, and feeds on Grass-hoppers, Ants, and
other insects, which it seizes, with the velocity of light-
ning, frequently darting out its long, black, forked tongue,
before making the final spring. A party in one of our
boats, proceeding up the Sarawak river, encountered a
large black-coloured Cobra (Naja Tripudians), seven feet
long, making his way through the water with his head
slightly raised, and his tongue protruding. He was im-
mediately attacked, wounded, and, after much struggling,

278 ANECDOTE OF A PYTHON.

hissing, and many contortions of the body, finally secured,
and brought up for my inspection.

During our residence at Sarawak, a very handsomely
variegated Python, about fourteen feet in length, was de-
tected in the act of devouring a chicken, beneath the
boards of Mr. Brooke's house. A party, headed by the
gunner, armed with boarding-pikes, soon wounded the
reptile, and secured him. When brought to me, he was
apparently in a dying condition, so, after admiring the
beauty of his spotted skin, 1 fastened him to a post in my
friend RuppelTs room. During the dinner-hour, how-
ever, he had recovered himself, slipped the noose over
his head, and escaped, no one knew whither, and all
our searching after the beautiful snake was unavailing.
During a visit to Sarawak, in September, 1844, Ruppell
informed me that many months afterwards, on some
stores having been removed, the same Python was dis-
covered, comfortably coiled up under some bags of rice.
No half-measures were pursued this time by his mer-
ciless captors; he was transfixed with spears, his head cut
off, and his skin preserved as a trophy. He measured,
after death, fourteen feet in length. Before the search
was made, several fowls and pigeons were found lacerated,
and half-dragged under the house. A party of Songi
Dyaks, from Serambo, having occasion to make a journey
to Sarawak, encountered a Python on the banks of the
river, thirty feet long ; they succeeded in killing it, and
tied its head to a tree on the river's brink. The day
before our trip to the Antimony and Gold Mines, it was
seen extended across the river, secured to the trunk of a
tree, but when we passed the spot, it had unluckily been

ADVENTURE WITH A SERPENT. 279

washed away by the freshes that rush impetuously from
the mountains, at certain times, and overflow the banks.
Pythons, or Boa-Constrictors as they are commonly called,
of an enormous size, are reported to have been seen in
the interior by the Dyaks. On one occasion, a large
dark-coloured snake was observed by the natives swim-
ming down the river, when they gave chase. They soon
overtook the reptile, and killed it by repeated blows on
the head with their paddles. This serpent, which was
presented to me, measured seven feet long, was innocuous,
and had a compressed form and a dorsal crest, extending
the whole length of the body. I pursued a similar serpent,
that surprised us when bathing, but did not succeed in
capturing him. A curious circumstance occurred at
Siniavin, showing the dread entertained by the Malays
against the serpent race. Taking a stroll before breakfast,
behind the village, I perceived a very prettily-marked
snake, at the bottom of a small, shallow pool of water,
and stooping quietly down, impaled the reptile between
my finger and thumb, and thus succeeded in making him
my prisoner. On my return, after showing my prize to
the party, in order to elicit proper admiration of its black
and red mottled skin, I proceeded to the river's brink, for
the purpose of securing the animal in an empty stoppered
bottle, which, according to custom, I had brought with
me for zoological contingencies, like the present. The
serpent being safely lodged in " durance vile," I was rather
surprised, some little time afterwards, at seeing a great
commotion among the " Tambang-boys," and my curio-
sity prompting me to investigate the cause of their leaping
precipitately into the water, and evincing other signs of

280 CHAMELEON.

excitement and alarm, I soon ascertained that the awk-
ward movements of Sooboo, Mr. Brooke's coxwain, as he
was engaged in clearing out the boat, had broken the
bottle, containing the captive snake, and that no sooner
had the men caught a glimpse of his gliding form, than
they, one and all, rushed tumultuously over the side of
the Tambang into the river, while the serpent, soon fol-
lowing their example, swam peacefully to the opposite
bank, and found a safe retreat among the dense, weedy
mass that fringed the river. Sooboo afterwards informed
me, that the species of snake I had captured in the
morning, was considered by the natives, one of the most
venomous in the country.

The Polyckrus virescens, like the Chamelion, changes its
colour, assuming various hues, which are dependent on
rage or fear. When first captured, and trembling in the
hand, it throws off its bright green mantle, and assumes
a coat of sober russet-brown, which is sometimes varied
with lighter spots ; frequently it remains of a fine emerald
green on the belly. It is the " Gruning " of the Malays,
and probably the " Chameleon " that Marsden mentions,
as being common in Sumatra. It hunts for insects among
the foliage of the trees, and is fond of travelling out to
the end of a slender branch, to watch the Diptera, as they
wheel in circles by. I always found their stomachs
loaded with insects. The Gruning bites very severely.

The " Toke " of the Malays, is a very common lizard
among the " attap " dwellings of the Dyaks. It feeds
on beetles, and other insect-forms that find a home in
holes of rotten wood. It emits a peculiar chirping
sound. The eggs are somewhat smaller than a wren's,

HOUSE-LIZARD. 281

and are concealed in damp and rotten logs. The young,
when first excluded, are of a bluer tinge than the mother-
reptile, and begin to crawl immediately on their expulsion
from the ovum.

The House-Lizard, or "Chichak", of the Malays,
(Ptyodactylm Gecko) is common. During the day it con-
ceals itself from view, and towards evening, runs across
the rafters, emitting its sharp, chirping note. On one
occasion, I was much amused with a struggle between one
of these domestic reptiles, and a large tarantula spider.
The Chicaak proved victorious, and succeeded in swal-
lowing the insect, whose enormous legs, protruding from
the lizard's mouth, gave the compound animal the aspect
of some wondrous Octopod.* The natives are fond of
the " Chichak," permitting it to harbour in security, for
it clears their bamboo-dwellings of Spiders, Scorpions,
Centipedes, and other vermin.

The Grass-Lizard (Tachysaurus Japonicus) is a slender,
graceful reptile, of the most brilliant green, with a yel-
lowish stripe on either side, and a tapering tail, four
times the length of the body. It is found among the
high grass, and in dense brakes, where the flowers are
thickest. Here light, elegant, and sprightly, it preys on
flies, and Orthopterous insects, which it captures in a
most expert and dexterous manner. I have met with it
also among the Korean Islands, the Meia-co-shimahs, and
at Sama-Sana Island, in the China Sea.

* Pliny records the fact, however, that spiders are in the habit of
capturing small Lizards, first entangling them in their webs, afterwards
destroying them with their jaws, a spectacle, he observes, worthy of the
amphitheatre !

282 BROWN LIZARD.

The large Brown Lizard is common in Hong- Kong,
Korea, and in Borneo. When caught, it bites severely.
It is a ground Lizard, and is very active, preying on
insects of various kinds. The Malays call it " Bingka-
rong." I have seen, while lazily reclining under the
cool shade of the trees on the small Island of Burong,
this large brown Lizard very attentively watching by the
side of a populous Ant-hill, and, as the unsuspecting in-
habitants came forth, in regular columns, as is their wont,
he would lick them up, with a complacent shake of the
head ; looking about him, at the same time, in a knowing
manner, with the fore part of the body raised high upon
the legs, and his long tail undulating gently from side to
side. Many thousands of the population of their city
were, doubtless, consumed, in the course of an hour, by
this fearful dragon without their walls.

I have observed the Fringed Tree- Gecko (Ptychozoon
homalocephala) ascend the stems of trees with considerable
agility, feeding greedily on the Termites that march in
swarms up and down the trunks, but I fancy the obser-
vation of Boie, that " they use the expansions on their
sides as a parachute," to be incorrect. I have seen them
cling to the smooth stem of a Palm, and remain for a
long time perfectly motionless. They appear to court the
shade, and owing to their assimilating in colour to the
bark, they are not easily to be perceived, even by the eye
of the naturalist. They are certainly not aquatic, as
M. Cuvier once imagined. In the young animal, the
membrane is corrugated, and as if shrivelled up, although
it is not rudimental, and, in some specimens, the free
margin of the mouth is entire, while in others, it is scal-
loped, and irregular.

FLYING LIZARD. 283

The Uroplatesjimbriatus, another curious little Lizard,
with the tail edged with a thin membrane, is also found
in Borneo. I have caught it as it was running up and
down the stems of the Areca palm, and I have seen it,
also on the Papyia. This fimbriated Gecko is about the
same size and colour as the common varieties of the
Ptyodactylus that frequent houses, and is likewise a
native of the island of Madagascar. One of the most
beautiful Lizards I have met with in Borneo, is the
Tachydromus sexlineatus, which is elegantly marked with
white and black streaks and spots. It is generally found
in sunny places, among dead leaves, and is astonishingly
active. Before I take leave of the Bornean Reptiles,
I must say a few words about the Dracunculus quinque-
fasciatus. This tiny, painted Dragon of the East, the
Flying Lizard of the Woods, is fond of clinging with its
wings to the smooth trunks of trees, and there remaining
immoveable, basking in the sun. When disturbed, it leaps,
and shuffles away in an awkward manner. One I had
in my possession, reminded me of a Bat, when placed on
the ground. Sometimes he would feign death, and re-
main perfectly motionless, drooping his head, and doubling
his limbs, until he fancied the danger over, then cautiously
raising his crouching form, he would look stealthily
around, and be off in a moment. It consumes flies in a
slow and deliberate manner, swallowing them gradually.
The eggs of the Lined Flying-Dragon (Dracunculus linea-
fus), which I have examined in Borneo, are white, and
much smaller than those of the Golden-crested Wren.
They are joined together in the manner of those of a
Snake. The inclosed young have the lateral membrane

284 BANDED-HEADED DRAGON.

fully formed. The eggs are found among decayed vege-
table matter, and under the loose bark of trees.

The Banded-Head Dragon (Dracunculus ornatus) is a
native of the Bashees, as well as of the Philippines, but
I do not remember having seen it in Borneo.

285

CHAPTER III.

BASHEE AND MEIA-CO-SHIMAH GROUPS.

Macao — Its appearance from the Roads — Baton — A Marriage Feast —
Rejoicings over the Dead — Exhibition of the Magic-Lanthorn —
Appearance and Dress of the Women — Vegetation — Insects —
Anecdote of a Spider — Pirate-Crabs — Story about a Land-Crab
— Beautiful Molluscous Animal — Singular Crustacean — Sea-Eggs
Star-Fish — Red-blooded Worms — Sharks — Meia-co-shimahs —
Lost in the Woods — Scenery — A natural Amphitheatre — Proposed
scheme of abduction — Gratitude of the Natives — Mountain Scenery
The Screw-Pine — The Hibiscus, Banyan, Camelia, and other
plants — Combination of Temperate and Tropical Forms — Palms
— Bamboo — Torches — Edible Cryptogamic Plant — Vegetables —
Reptiles — Blue-tailed Lizard — The Diodon — Enormous Octopi —
The Kraken — Habits of Cephalopoda — Mollusca used as food —
Modes of defence of Mollusks — Enemies of Mollusks — New Genus
of DorididaB — Habits of Crustaceans — Insects — Glow-Worm — •
The Centipede — The Scorpion — Spiders — Aspect of the Coral-
reefs — Zoophy tes .

ON the 14th of September, 1843, we arrived at Hong-
Kong, where we remained till the 29th of October, when
we again made sail, and, on the 30th, anchored in Macao
roads. Our short stay at this place did not, however,
offer much to the notice of the naturalist, and I have
already, in the body of the work, alluded to the busy

286 MACAO.

appearance of the streets, and paid my humble tribute to
the famous Cave of Camoens. I shall therefore, after
briefly alluding to its appearance, from the water, proceed
on to the Bashee Group. Macao offers a somewhat in-
teresting sight when seen from the anchorage in the
roads ; the heights of the mountains, Charil, and Milan,
are crowded with forts and hermitages, and stretching
along the water, the broad quay, or landing-place, (Praya
grande,) shows a row of neat and airy houses. Two
churches, and numerous monasteries of Capuchin, Augus-
tin, and Dominican Monks, and one female convent, that
of St. Clare, (rather curiously dedicated to the Conception
of the Mother of God) ornament the city, and relieve the
monotony of Chinese Bazaars, &c. The greater part of
the population consists of " Mesticos," or a mixture of
Chinese, Malay, and Portuguese.

On the 2nd of November, 1843, we left Macao roads,
and on the 12th, arrived at Batan, where we remained
till the 27th, and partially surveyed the group. Since
that, several other visits, in February, 1844, in March,
1845, and in May and November of the same year, have
enabled me to make a few observations, which may not
be unacceptable or uninteresting. I remember on one
occasion, being very much amused at a wedding-feast at
which I was present, and as it exhibits a few peculiarities
of the habits of these Islanders, I shall shortly describe it.
The marriage-feast consisted of raw pork, finely chopped
up, Yams, and Sweet-Potatoes, not omitting large quan-
tities of their national beverage, the abominable Bashee.
The ground was their table, their plates were torn from
the Arum and Banana, " cujus folia instar patinae natura

BASHEE WEDDING. 287

formavit," as Rumphius would observe, and their fingers
the knives and forks. After cramming their bodies with
this, to us, indigestible collation, they adjourned to the
dancing-room, a large shed-like building, where, to the
sound of a fiddle, the only one in the island, they
achieved a variety of extraordinary dances, not generally
known among the " Corps de ballet," or others learned
in the Terpsichorean mysteries. I had the honour of
leading off the first set with the bride, and our perform-
ance appeared to give universal satisfaction ; and soon
the noise, chattering, and merriment would have done
honour to a Christmas party in the rural parts of our own
dear " Merrie England."

When a person is dangerously sick, and not likely to
recover, his friends all leave him, and the house is care-
fully closed ; the same custom prevails when a woman is
in the pains of labour. Should the person die, a large
pig is killed, and placed by the side of the deceased, and
eating and drinking take place among the friends and
neighbours, who assemble together for the express pur-
pose ; the whole proceeding reminding one exactly of an
Irish wake, with the exception, perhaps, that the
" Keeners " are not quite so accomplished and noisy.*

At the village of St. Carlo, in Batan, the evening ex-
hibition of the magic-lanthorn gave great satisfaction to

* Marsden, in his ' History of Sumatra ', alludes to a similar
practice among the natives of that island. Referring to their funeral
rites, he observes : " On this occasion, they kill, and feast on a Bxiff'alo,
and leave the head to decay on the spot, as a token of the honour they
have done to the deceased, in eating to his memory ;" and again, " the
women who attend the funeral make a hideous noise not unlike the
Irish howl."

288 MAGIC-LANTHORN.

the native Indians, who came attired for the occasion in
their best habiliments, and even those spectators of the
fairer sex were more decently covered than is their wont,
and all assumed the most modest and well behaved de-
portment. Bursts of unrestrained merriment occasionally
uprose, as some ridiculous phantasm, more fantastic than
ordinary, met their wondering eyes. The short lace jackets,
partially veiling, but not quite concealing the bosom, the
sarong, tightly fitting about the hips, and the small bare
feet, with the tips of the toes resting in little embroidered
slippers, set off the well-made, symmetrical forms of the
young girls, many of whom were really pretty.

Among the plants that grow wild in these islands, is
the Datura tatula, an aromatic Absinthium, much valued
as an anthelmintic and stomachic by the natives ; an
aromatic plant, very much like the Teucrium Scorodonia;
a species oiLamium, with large showy purple flowers; the
red and yellow-flowered Canna ; the Spondias dulcis, and
Ebony (Diospyrus melanoxylori) ; the Sweet-scented Violet
(Viola odoratd), a very palatable mountain Raspberry, the
Castor-oil plant, and Convolvulus.

The insects which appear to be most common among
the Bashees belong to the Rhynochophora and Chrysome-
lid(B. Small jumping beetles, Haltica, commonly known
by the name of " Garden Fleas ", are very numerous, as
are several Scutetterida ; one Cattidea, in particular, with
a purple thorax, and light-green elytra, with black spots,
is a very common insect. In some parts, the leaves are
covered with innumerable larvae of a handsomely-marked
species of Cassida, all of them being concealed under little
tents, formed out of their own excrement. A Cereopis, with

BEETLES AND SPIDERS. 289

an orange head and thorax, and black elytra, covered
with orange spots, is common among the leaves in sunny
places, and a velvety Laguria, with metallic-looking,
green, punctulated wing-covers, is frequently seen pitching
for an instant on the surface of the leaves, and taking
flight again with the greatest velocity, having more the
habits of some active dipterous insect than of a beetle.
A small green Mantis is not uncommon, crawling among
the culms of the long, rank grass.

In these islands I have noticed a large species of
Nephila, which appears undescribed. The thorax is
covered with a silvery pubescence, the abdomen has nine
bright-yellow spots ; the shanks of the first pair of tibiae
have a broad yellow band, and those of the posterior
tibiae, and penultimate joints, at their proximate ends,
have a similar band. The rest of the body and legs is
black. It forms a large, strong geometrical web. I have
named the species N, xanthospilota.

The larvae of the Cryptocephali, which abound here,
form hollow, flattened cases of the comminuted cuticle of
the leaves of the Sea-Convolvulus, and may be seen
crawling about by hundreds, like the larvae of Cassida.
When, however, they are about to undergo their meta-
morphosis, they adhere firmly to the upper surface of the
leaves, by means of a glutinous secretion, which is inso-
luble in water, and thus prevents their being washed
away by the rains.

Under the decayed bark of trees I noticed, near Santa
Ivanna, numbers of a species of Chelifer, running up and
down the trunk, like so many pigmy Scorpions.

Among the Bashees, Spiders, of the genera Nephila

VOL. n. u

290 SPIDERS AND PIRATE-CRABS.

and Acrosoma, are numerous. There is one very large
and handsome species of the latter genus, which has
a strange habit, when alarmed, of suddenly erecting
the second pair of legs, with a rapid, jerking motion ;
while, at the same time, he gathers together all the other
legs, and shakes his web violently, in order, apparently, to
intimidate his adversary, or, perhaps, to ascertain the
strength of his position. If, however, the cause of alarm
be continued, he coils himself up, while all his members
become rigid, as in death, and then falling to the ground
he remains like a small, inanimate, brown ball, until the
enemy has departed. His cunning never forsakes him,
even in his greatest emergency, for he continues all this
while actually to maintain a communication between him-
self and his web, by means of a fine thread, fixed at one
end to the centre of his toil, and at the other attached to
the spinneret at the end of his abdomen. By means of
this attenuated and invisible cord, he will climb up again
when the danger is over, and resume his old pastime of
rapine and blood-sucking.

The dry rocks swarm with Robber- Crabs, in their bor-
rowed houses, all very busy and vivacious. These Paguri,
or " Pirate Crabs," are very numerous throughout the
Indian Islands, taking refuge, some in the prostrate
bodies of decayed trees, some in the dead leaves and
underwood, and some penetrating the verge of the forest,
and ascending the Hibiscus, and other trees that border
upon the sea. Many, again, are littoral in their habits?
and others live at great depths. One species was obtained
off the Cape, at 230 fathoms, having fabricated for itself
a most ingenious dwelling, in the form of a univalve

REMARKABLE LAND-CRAB. 291

turbinated shell, from an Ancittaria, incrusted with an
alcyonoid sponge. Others, again, like the Birgus latro,
live high up the mountains, in holes of rocks, and in hol-
low trees. Regarding this Pirate, the natives of Batan
tell very remarkable stories. They say it utters a sharp
cry when caught, that it bites most severely, and defends
itself with desperation, that it carries its eyes in its tail,
runs with surprising celerity, feigning death when alarmed,
and cuts down with its chelae the young Cocoa-nut trees.
From observation, I can say they run swiftly backwards,
feign death when disturbed, feed on fruits, and are of
immense strength. They are numerous at the Meia-
co-shimah Group, where they inhabit holes in the banks
among the pine woods. At Cocos Island, they are said
to be destructive to the young Cocoa-nut trees. Sir E.
Belcher informs me they attain to an enormous size in
Pitcairns Island, and that there is a tradition of a woman,
after having been cast ashore senseless, from a wreck,
being deprived of her babe, by one of these giant Land-
Crabs, and who was rescued only by the death of the
captor.

The Hermit-Crabs form three large divisions, the Sir-
gw, entirely terrestrial, and unprovided with a borrowed
protective shell; one (Cenobitd) which lives in shallow
bays, fresh-water pools, or on the borders of woods, near
the sea, and which closes the aperture of its dwelling with
its left chela, and second left ambulatory foot ; and a
third-class (Paguri), which live at the bottom of the sea,
at greater depths, which have foot-claws, elongated and
feeble, extending straight forwards, and never closing the

292 BEAUTIFUL MOLI.USKS.

aperture of their stolen habitaculura. On being captured,
they always retreat to the further end of the shell.

On the little Island of Ibugos, one of the Bashee Group,
I had the pleasure of observing the large and hand-
some Pleurobranchus testudinarius, figured in Philippi's
' Enumeratio Molluscorum Sicilise ' (Tab. XX. Fig. 1.), in
its native element. It was gliding quietly along, at the
bottom of a shallow salt-water pool, near the shore. The
cheloniform back of the animal is splendidly variegated
with various rich and glowing colours, chiefly ruddy
browns, Vandyke, Sienna, and Bistre, with Lake and
Indian yellow, relieved by numerous dead white specks.
The integument is covered with hexagonal markings,
which each rise to a central nucleus, giving to the
creature, when in motion, very much the appearance of
a diminutive Tortoise. The branchial organs, beautifully
lamellated. are arranged in two rows ; they are placed in
the body-groove of the right side, just above the foot, and
are slightly protruded beyond the margin of the mantle.
The belly is of a dark slate colour, the gills are purplish,
and the appendages of the head of a rich red -brown. In
its movements, this Mollusk is slow and deliberate,
crawling in a slug-like manner, at the bottom of the
water. The chromatogenous vesicles, or cytoblasts of
colouring matter, when examined microscopically, were
found very large, and well-developed in the soft, coloured
skin of this beautiful Mollusk.

On the same flat, weedy beach, there is a peculiar
species of Cattianassa, which digs pits in the sand, in the
manner of the Ant-Lion. It is a long, red-coloured

"SCAVENGERS OF THE DEEP." 293

powerful Crustacean, and allows the antennae to be pro-
truded some way from the mouth of its snare, and when
the Ophiwri, or other animals, come unwarily by, his foot-
claws are immediately darted forth, and the victim is
dragged forcibly down to be devoured at leisure. The
TJialassina Scorpionoides lives in holes, in a similar manner
on the dry land, but is a weak, inactive creature, and does
not seem possessed of the same ingenuity.

Among the numerous interesting marine forms of
organic life to be met with among the Islands of the
Bashee Group, not the least worthy of note are those
Echinodermatous animals, the Opkiuri, Asteriades, Holo-
thurice, and Echini. Eccentric in appearance, disgusting
in their habits, they crawl languidly at the bottom of the
sea, always intent on procuring food, consuming vora-
ciously whatever comes in their way, so that they have
appropriately been termed the " Scavengers of the deep."
The Opkiuri affect the shallow weedy sands, which the
water never leaves perfectly dry. They are fond of
concealing themselves under flat stones, creeping into the
anfractuosities of Corallines, or wrapping their bodies in
the Algae that lie around them. They sometimes bury
their central discs in the semi-fluid sand, gently vibrating
their snake-like arms, and protruding their tubular feet,
which latter seem to serve them also as breathing organs.
When pursued by an enemy, they move with considerable
dispatch, dragging their bodies sideways, by seizing upon
the irregularities of the ground with their long, flexible
brachia.

A superb Asterias, upwards of a foot in diameter,
beautifully marked with crimson, and covered with small

294 SEA-EGGS AND STAR-FISH.

dark spots, was obtained from the same locality. In
deeper water along the coasts of these islands., the
dredge furnished us with numerous Spatanyi, the spines
of which, when the animals are alive, have a slow oscil-
lating movement, but they do not serve as such important
organs of locomotion, as they do in the Cidaris and
Echinus. The flattened forms of Echinodermata are
very numerous all over the China Sea, strewing the
muddy and sandy floor, and every time the dredge was
examined, numbers of Scutella, Lobophora, and other
forms, were procured ; they appear to have less vivacity
and perception than even the Spatangi. Among the
Echini procured in this way, was a very handsome species,
having bright ultramarine spots in the radial grooves,
extending from the mouth to the anus, with spines long,
slender, and marked with alternate light and dark rings ;
others were procured of a delicate rose-colour, and large
and splendid Cidares, with tuberculated, compound spines,
having other flattened spines and narrow calcareous plates
in the sulci between the segments, were also noticed
among other beauties brought to light by the dredge. The
tubular processes which issue from the ambulacral pores in
this Cidaris, are capable of enormous dilatation, and the
sucking discs at their extremities, are possessed of consi-
derable powers of tenacity. I observed the animal after
rolling itself along, by means of its spines, assisted by its
tubular appendages, the so-called feet, commence leisurely
to ascend the sides of the wash-deck bucket, in which
I held it captive, nor did it cease its persevering en-
deavours until it had arrived at the very edge, when, on
touching it, the tubular tentacles were withdrawn, the

BICHE DE HER. 295

suckers became detached, and the creature fell to the
bottom of the vessel. The fact of this locomotion of
Echinoderms was well known to Pliny, who observes,
" sunt echini, quibus spinae pro pedibus."

The Comatulae are very large and of splendid colours,
in the Indian Seas. I have figured one gigantic species,
the pinnate arms of which are of the most beautiful
green, the oval disc being of a bright yellow. The Coma-
tula, which is merely a detached Pentacrinus, and possibly
only an adult form of those pedunculated Echinoderms,
enjoys a very considerable latitude of motion, and can
even raise itself from the bottom, and propel its body
through the water by a series of successive jerks, em-
ploying the long flexible arms in the same manner as
the Argonaut and Octopus. Both Comatulce and Gorgo-
nocephali are very difficult to preserve properly, even if
they are first steeped in fresh water.

A species of Holothuria is common on the shores of
these islands, of a dark black colour, being covered with
a thick stratum of pigment, which stains the fingers
purple, when the animal is touched. The original aspect
of this " biche de mer " is concealed by granules of sand,
which entirely cover the large cylindrical body. Its
branchiae are very beautifully firnbriated, and are of a
deep purple colour. There is another species of Holo-
thuria with a soft brown, tesselated, integument, which,
on being touched, after suddenly ejecting the entire con-
tents of its sacciform body, including the whole of the
viscera and appendages, through the anal orifice, shrivels
up, and immediately dies. Another species is of a bril-
liant crimson colour, with several rows of bright yellow

296 SHARKS.

pedicelli, an ultramarine coloured ring round the oral
aperture, and beautiful compound branchiae, of a pink rose
colour. In another species, I noticed that the branchiae
were composed of numerous isolated trunks, beautifully
ramified, and all radiating from the crown-shaped anal
aperture so as to form, in appearance, a lovely violet star.

The Sternaspis inhabits deep water, and was procured
by us on two occasions from a muddy floor. It is very
inactive in its habits, and when alive moves the spines at
one end of the body in an oscillatory manner. It appears
to be an animal of delicate constitution, dying and
shrivelling up very shortly after being taken. The worm-
like Sipunculus, which inhabits the loose moist sand, in
which it forms rather deep burrows, resembles a gigantic
Arenicola, to which it also approximates in its habits.

A small species of spotted Shark is rather common
along the shore, and appears to be a very active depre-
dator among the shoals of fish that here abound. I
made a capture of one of these fish-tigers, which, un-
luckily for him, had run aground upon a shallow sand-
bank. After making surprising efforts to bite his as-
sailant, and regain his native element, he finally became
my lawful prize.

Speaking of Sharks, I may here mention a curious cir-
cumstance, showing the extreme voracity of these fish,
which occurred at Uusang, on the East coast of Borneo.
A large species of Zygana sprang from the water, seized
a bullock's hide which was drying at the bows of the
ship, and succeeded in tearing a portion of it off. One
hundred miles from Batan, a shark was caught with a
partially digested pig in his stomach, which had been

RED-BLOODED WORMS. 297

thrown overboard at the anchorage of San Domingo, in
that island. Sharks are always, and justly so, detested
by the sailors, and they ever experience a certain savage
delight in hacking them to pieces with their knives,
before life is extinct ; and there really is something very
unpleasant in the quiet splashings of these voracious
monsters, when they are numerous round a ship, and
something very revolting in the greedy pertinacity with
which they seek the filthy garbage and offal thrown over-
board.

Annelides are observed in great numbers along the flat
shores of some of these islands! Vermiform, and slow-
moving, they mostly exist blindfold, and buried in the
sand ; while a few are provided with articulated members
and move freely about. The Eunice tubicola lives in a
long horny, transparent tube, within which, strange to
say, it can readily turn end for end. The tube is fur-
nished at one extremity with a delicate valvular apparatus,
which allows the water to flow but in one direction. The
skin of some of these Annelides is soft, and covered with
a slimy secretion, and I have seen one species cover itself
with loose calcareous grains, like the huge dark-coloured
Holothuria of the coast of Ibugos. They, however, ap-
pear to be, for the most part, helpless and indolent beings,
not possessed of much activity, but vegetating in their
dark abodes, leading lives insignificant and obscure.
Some few, however, as the Nais and Scyttis, would seem
to repudiate such an accusation, seeing that they enjoy a
greater latitude of locomotion, with the possession of
senses much more developed. They are very difficult to
preserve entire, owing to the facility with which their

298 LOST IN THE WOODS.

segments separate when the animals are captured.
Although apparently so inert and helpless, in many in-
stances they are provided with means of aggression and
defence by no means despicable, consisting in long,
sharp, arrow-headed bristles. Many of these setigerous
forms, as Aphrodite, Eupkrosone, and some others, prove
most troublesome to the zoologist, when examining the
contents of the dredge, penetrating the skin by means of
their fasciculi of smah1 sharp spicula, and producing the
same unpleasant irritating effects as the spicula of some
sponges, the hairs of certain caterpillars, and the DolicJios
pruriens, and many other plants.

On the 27th of November we left the pleasant Batani
Islands, and on the 1st of December, arrived at Pa-
tchung-san, one of the Meia-co-shimah Group, and I shall
now proceed to offer a few observations connected with
the natural productions of these islands, merely premising
that the scientific details will be published in another work.

Every one of the party seemed to enjoy himself on
the occasion of our survey of this island, and each one
had some little adventure to relate which had happened
to himself. In one trip, as I was astride a wretched
apology for a horse, a most miserable " Rosinante," fur-
nished with heavy uncouth stirrups, a wooden saddle, a
preposterous bit, and grass-rope bridle, in hot pursuit
after a curious Land-Crab, a most cunning and active
species of Biryus, I unfortunately lost my way, and wan-
dered about the woods, perfectly " at fault." Trusting,
however, to the intelligence of my beast, and thinking he
must be better acquainted with the intricacy of the forest-
paths than myself, I gave him the reins, such as they

LOST IN THE WOODS. 299

were, and allowed him to exercise his own discretion,
when, after conducting me through numerous dense
thickets ; walking with me up rugged, stony, precipitous
steps, nearly perpendicular; now stumbling over loose
stones, and now half-hanging me, like Absalom, on the
branches of the trees ; after traversing the beds of shallow,
running rivulets, and threading marshes, almost knee-deep
in mud, I found, to my great vexation, and regret for
equine sagacity, that the foolish animal had, after all,
mistaken his road, and had conducted me to the margin
of the sea, in a beautiful, wild and desolate spot, with
enormous rocks, clothed with verdure, towering around
and above me, and huge masses of broken coral strewing
the strand beneath. I had not much time, however,
allowed me to contemplate the beauties of the scene, or
the novelty of my situation, for the jealous vigilance, or
polite hospitality as they wished it to be considered, of
our friends, the poor islanders, interrupted my reverie,
and prevented my being altogether food for the crows.
They kindly urged me forward in the right road, and
persuading me to quicken my pace, before long, I was
comfortably lodged in a temporary house built in a few
minutes, for the accomodation of the Captain, on the
summit of a hill, surrounded, on every side, with beau-
tiful woods. Here we bivouacked for the night on beds
of dry grass, the natives crowding round large fires in
the open air, and the mandarins seated on mats, under a
shed, smoking their pipes, drinking innumerable small
cups of tea, and talking together nearly the whole of the
night. Sometimes our path lay along a grassy plain,
varied at intervals by huge piles of rocks and stones,

300 SCENERY OF KOO-KIEN-SAN.

overgrown with Vines, and other climbing plants, or
masses of dark Pine trees, covering and surmounting
the wooded knolls, and furnishing deep shady glades be-
tween them. At other times, we would wend our way
through miles of sable forest, dark, shadowy, and silent,
and filled with nothing but lofty Pines ; in our course,
ascending precipitous and rocky paths, crossing narrow
causeways, or rude bridges over waterfalls; and then
again our road would be in open daylight, across broad
fields of Sweet-Potatoes, or by the side of "padi"
swamps. In Koo-kien-san, we came, on one occasion,
suddenly upon a most magnificent natural amphitheatre.
From a verdurous plain, covered with the Palmetto Palm,
and prickly Pandanus, gigantic Hibiscus trees, and long
coarse grass, huge hills uprose in every direction, their
sides densely and beautifully wooded with trees of varied
foliage, while here and there a patch of bare red rock, or
yellow stratified acclivity would relieve the sameness of
the universal green. In many places were ravines with
running water trickling down the sides.

To such an extent did I ingratiate myself with these
good people, by giving them medicines, and adopting
their habits, that, in this same island of Koo-kien-san, a
plot was actually laid to carry me off into the mountains,
in a rude kind of sedan, with tempting offers of a wife
and house, and as much tobacco as I pleased. My
services as a Surgeon might have had some influence in
bringing them to this determination. Finding, however,
all their pressing tenders, and what they conceived
tempting offers, of no avail, their chagrin was very mani-
fest, and they contented themselves with dressing my

CONTINUED. 301

hair in their peculiar fashion, investing me with the
silver " Kami-saschi, " and placing around me an
" eschaw," or robe, then sitting in silence, deplored the
resolution I had thought proper to adopt. At one of
the villages, an old Chief brought down his infant daughter
in his arms, and besought my assistance, as she was
afflicted with a tumor in the neck. On my pointing out
the course he should pursue, he joyfully returned to the
village, and shortly afterwards returned, begging my
acceptance of a small present, which consisted of some
ground-nuts, a couple of fowls, a flask of " saki," and
some Sweet-Potatoes.

In some of the mountain scenes, among the still quiet
glens, apart from the villages, there is an air of rude
grandeur and magnificence, hardly to be looked for on
an island of such comparatively small dimensions as
Koo-kien-san. In one part of the island a stream of
water falls from a great height, producing one of the
highest waterfalls, perhaps, hitherto known ; and towering
above this, are several tapering peaks, which, seen glit-
tering in the splendour of the setting sun, produce as
fine a picture as any Salvator Rosa could have desired.
In other precipitous parts, vast masses of rocks, lichen-
stained, and overgrown with a wild and tangled vegetation,
lie crowded and jumbled together in the utmost confusion,
rendering it very rough and difficult work for our small-
footed ponies. Although both myself and pony came
rolling down one of these precipitous passes, with high
banks on either side, yet I would rather trust my neck
to the sagacity of these hill-bred animals than to my own
pedestrian exertions. In some of these romantic, and

302 FLOWERS AND FRUITS.

beautifully-wooded valleys, a large white-flowered Convol-
vulus, or rather Calystegia, climbs among the tangled
thickets in the wildest luxuriance, and, mingling its pure
blossoms with those of a yellow-flowered Hibiscus, pro-
duces quite a pleasing effect.

Among the Meia-co-shimah Islands, I first had the
curiosity to taste the fruit of the Pandanus, or Screw-
Pine, and found it refreshing and juicy, but very insipid.
When perfectly mature, however, they certainly look very
tempting, and resemble large rich-coloured Pine- Apples.
In several instances I found the interior of half-decayed
fruits filled with a fermented, subacid liquor, and have no
doubt that a decent wine might be manufactured from
the pulp. The stones, though very hard, contain a
pleasant kernel.

A large yellow-flowered Hibiscus grows in vast quanti-
ties, offering a most beautiful spectacle in the deep woody
gorges of Koo-kien-san. In the young shoots, the spiral
vessels resembling spider-webs, could be distinctly seen
with the naked eye, on breaking through the green stems.
On the open plains, a small Campanula with a very flat
blue corolla, and a curious flower, with white tufts on the
petals, are very common.

In some parts of Pa-tchung-san we passed through
large masses of the Canna Indica, with red and yellow
flowers, sometimes inclining to a deep orange, producing
a very beautiful and brilliant effect, and near the villages
the Camelia Japonica attains the dimensions of a large
tree, frequently several feet in diameter, and loaded as
it was, at the time of our visit, with handsome red
wax-like blossoms, it imparts a very gay aspect to the

UNION OF TEMPERATE AND TROPICAL FORMS. 303

scenery. Groves of Guava (Psidium pyriferum) and a
small species of Orange, contribute materially to the same
end. In the quiet spots, selected for the interment of
the dead, the Banyan

spreads her arms

Branching so broad and long, that in the ground
The bended twigs take root, and daughters grow
About the mother tree, a pillar'd shade
High overarch'd, and echoing walks between.

Paradise Lost.

The sugar-cane grows sparingly, and is accounted a
luxury rather than a necessary of life. Altogether, there
is a strange mingling of temperate and tropical forms,
both in the Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms, among
these islands. You will find the Violet and the Rose
the Polygala and the Marygold growing side by side with
the Plantain, the Pepper and Pandanus ; you will see the
Fire-fly, and the Painted-Lady Butterfly occupying the
same trees, and the Centipede, Theliphonus, Scorpion,
Opatrum, and Hister under the same stones. The Palms
gradually decrease in numerical importance and diversity
of species, as you recede from the equatorial line. The
Cocoa-nut does not grow much beyond the twentieth de-
gree of latitude ; but the Pandanus, or Screw-Pine, is
apparently the most hardy of them all, and is the last to
disappear. At the Island of Pa-tchung-san I found the
Musa pamdisaica, but very poor and small, and rarely
producing fruit; the Palmetto, or Pan-Palm, (Borassus
flabettiformis) however, seemed to thrive very well in the
same island, and is used by the natives for a variety of
purposes, particularly in the manufacture of hats. Among
these islands I found the long Pepper (Piper longum)

304 USEFUL PLANTS.

creeping among the loose stones of tombs, in wild un-
cultivated places, and the red globular berries of the
half-ripe fruit, formed a pleasing contrast to the green
foliage of the trailing Vines.

The Bamboo (Arundo Bambos) grows wild in large
dense brakes, and in many parts the plains and mountain-
flanks are covered with Pine forests, the trunks, in several
cases, being chipped away by the natives for the sake of
the resinous wood, which is here employed as candles,
and which produces a bright, strong, clear light. They
use, likewise, a kind of light, dry wood, as slow-matches,
binding bundles of it together with grass, never allowing
it once to be extinguished during many days. In nu-
merous localities, more particularly on the summits of
the hills, there is a kind of Cryptogamic plant, with a soft
green, and somewhat gelatinous thallm, crumpled and
irregular in appearance, which is eaten by the poorer
sorts of the people. A kind of wild Celery, apparently
the same as our Apium graveolens, is likewise employed
by them as an agreeable anthelniintic and stomachic.
Yams do not appear to be known, but Sweet-Potatoes,
Peas, Turnips, Carrots, and Radishes, are met with in
large quantities. The Cotton plant (Gossypium Jtcrbaceum}
is cultivated in fields in many parts of the Mei'a-co-
shimah Group.

You will see darting among the grass, in the Islands
of the Me'ia-co-shimahs, a very elegant and beautiful
little Lizard, with the throat and sides tinged with a
delicate red, and five bright yellow lines running along
the back, the central line dividing at the junction of
the head and neck, and again uniting at the apex of

SNAKES AND LIZARDS. 305

the muzzle. The dorsal surface is black, and the sides
are reddish-brown, with minute dark spots ; the belly is
of a light dull yellow, the legs are dark brown above, and
light coloured on their under surface, and the tail, long
and tapering, is of a lively and brilliant ultramarine blue.
This pretty little Saurian is very active in its movements,
frequenting the long grass and undergrowth, feeding on
Mies, Locusts, and Caterpillars, and, in its turn, very fre-
quently falling a prey to the small species of Viper pecu-
liar to these islands.

The Green Turtle (Chelonia my das), notwithstanding
the inclemency of the season, was seen swimming in the
tranquil bays, and a handsome yellow Hydrophis, banded
with black, was also met with, frequenting the rocky
coasts, hiding in holes of Corallines, and basking on the
exposed rocks. It swims with great elegance, and dives
with facility.

A species of Trigonocephalm, with the poison-fangs
enormously developed, attains here to a very large size.
A small Coluber is very common; and a handsome
spotted Tropidonotus was procured, very similar to the
T. natrix, or Ringed Snake, of Europe.

A brilliant green Tree-Frog (Hyla], with a bright
orange abdomen, is found on the margins of the rivers,
and among the four species of Lizards I noticed, in-
cluding the blue-tailed Zootica and the Tacliysaurm
Japonicus, was a large brown species, remarkable for its
black eyes, the golden iris being very narrow, and
entirely concealed by the eyelids. The Toad, the Tree-
Frog, the Viper, the Lizard, and the Snake, assume
nearly the same form, size, and colour, that we observe

VOL. II. X

306 THE DIODON.

in Europe ; but here also occur forms, like the Chelonia
and Triffonocephalus, which remind you that these regions
are connected in their natural productions, with the
Islands of the Archipelago of Malayan Asia.

Among Fish, a species of Diodon is common in the
bays of Pa-tchung-san and the adjacent islands. The
eye of this singular Fish is large, with a black pupil and
splendid golden iris ; when first caught it bites severely
with its trenchant teeth, and spits at those who approach
it. The Diodon swims heavily, and at the bottom, feeding
on small Crustacea, Shell-Fish, and Annelida ; when
irritated, it distends its mis-shapen ugly body, and when
puffed up in this manner, can, with difficulty, make pro-
gress through the water. I have seen seamen practise a
rather cruel experiment on the poor Diodon, which they
term " sprit-sail-yarding." This consists in passing a
thin piece of wood across the skin of the back, which
prevents the Fish from sinking, and at the same time
enables it to make use of its fins ; in this condition the
unfortunate animal progresses through the water, to the
great edification of Jack, who laughs, and calls it his
" little steamer ! "

Octopi, of enormous size, are occasionally met with
among the Islands of the Meia-co-shimah Group. I mea-
sured one, which two men were bearing on their shoulders
across a pole, and found each brachium rather more than
two feet long, giving the creature the power of exploring
a space of about twelve feet, without moving, taking the
mouth for a central point, and the ends of the arms for
the periphery. Dorsal plates of Sepia, moreover, are
found strewing the beaches, a foot and a half in length.
These are not quite so monstrous, however, as those of a

CEPHALOPODS. 307

certain species which Trebius Niger, quoted by Pliny,
mentions, the head of which was of the size of a cask,
the brachia each thirty feet long, and the death of which
was so difficult to achieve.* Pliny, himself, however,
allows that in the Mediterranean Loligincs may be found
five cubits in length, and Sepia two ! Sir Edward Belcher
informs me that the fishermen of Newfoundland have a
legend among themselves, that the backbone of a Cuttle-
Fish was once found lying on the northern shores, as
large as a whale ! Surely the living owner of that dorsal
plate must have been the famous " Kraken " that we
remember to have read about ! On moonlight nights
among these islands, I have frequently observed the
Sepia and Octopi in full predatory activity, and have had
considerable trouble and difficulty in securing them, so
great is their restless vivacity at this time, and so vigorous
their endeavours to escape. They dart from side to side
of the pools, or fix themselves so tenaciously to the sur-
face of the stones, by means of their sucker-like acetabula,
that it requires great force and strength to detach them.
Even when removed, and thrown upon the sand, they
progress rapidly, in a sidelong shuffling manner, throwing
about their long arms, ejecting their ink-like fluid in sud-
den violent jets, and staring about with their big, shining
eyes (which at night appear luminous, like a cat's,) in a very
grotesque and hideous manner. The natives of most of the
islands in the China Seas dry these Mollusks ; as likewise
the soft parts of Haliotis, Turbo, Hippopus, Tridacna, &c.,
and make use of them as articles of food. But from my
little experience of this kind of diet, notwithstanding the
* Vide Pliny, Cap. xxx. Lib. 9.

x 2

308 MOLLUSKS USED AS FOOD.

assertion of the learned Bacon, in his ' Experiment solitary
touching Cuttle-ink,' that the " Cuttle is accounted a
delicate meat, and is much in request," * I should say
that it is as indigestible and innutritious, as it is certainly
tough and uninviting. Cephalopods, however, are eaten
at the present day on some parts of the Mediterranean
coast ; and in Hampshire I have seen the poor people
collect assiduously the Sepia, and employ them as food.
Besides using a small kind of salted beans, the natives of
the Meia-co-shimahs flavour the balls of Rice and of Sweet-
Potatoes, which constitute the principal articles in their
system of dietetics, with a peculiar composition, very
similar in taste to " Blachong," the universal sauce of
the inhabitants of the Oriental Archipelago, a substance
made out of decomposed Shrimps and small Fish, fer-
mented, and dried in the sun. Notwithstanding the
proverbial partiality of the Japanese for Soy, I never saw
that condiment employed at any of the entertainments
of the Me'ia-co-shimites.

The common Snail of the Meia-co-shimahs is eaten by
the natives, as the Helix aspersa and pomatia are occa-
sionally in Europe. The Malays are fond of the Cerithium
telescopmm and palustre, found in the Mangrove swamps.
They throw them on their wood fires, and, when suffi-
ciently cooked, break off the sharp end of the spire, and
suck the tail of the animal through the opening. The
Haliotis is taken trom the shell, dried in the sun, strung
together on rattan, and is eaten raw by the same people.

The poorer people of the Philippines are fond of the
Area inequivalvis, boiling them as we do Cockles and
* Works. Nat. Hist. p. 167. Bolm's Ed.

THEIR MODES OF DEFENCE. 309

Muscles; the flesh, however, is red^and very bad-flavoured.
Some Monodonta, which I have eaten among the Korean
Islands, are quite peppery, and bite the tongue, pro-
ducing the same unpleasant effects upon that organ, as
the root of the Arum maculatum, or leaves of the Taro,
but in a much less intense degree ; and a species of My-
tilus, found in the same locality, has very similar unpa-
latable qualities.

The Paludina, common in the Padi fields, in these
islands, escapes detection, by covering itself over with
small hard masses of mud, in which state it resembles
those turbinated habitacula of the larvae of some fresh-
water insect, to which Swainson has applied the name
Thelidomus, conceiving them to be true shells, repre-
senting, I believe, in his quinary system, the genus
Phorus. This peculiarity of the Paludinas did not
appear to me to be accidental, as I have seen shells of the
same genus in England, Java, and elsewhere, which entirely
wanted the very peculiar appearance above alluded to, and
the Lymneeas, in the same ponds, were not muddier than
is usual with those shells. All Mollusks have certain
means of avoiding threatened dangers. The Gasteropods
withdraw their bodies within their shells,

As the snail, whose tender horns being hit,
Shrinks backward in his shelly cave with pain,
And there, all smother'd up, in shade doth sit,
Long after fearing to creep forth again. — Shakspeare.

The Pteropods contract their bodies when alarmed, and
sink suddenly to the bottom ; the Bivalves close their
shells, and bid defiance to the enemy ; the Pholas and
Solen, like many of the Cephalopods, including the

310 ENEMIES OF MOLLUSCA.

Cuttle-Fish and Loligo, eject, as is well known, a coloured
fluid, and so escape in the midst of the clouded water
they have produced. The lanthina and Aplysice have the
same powers, especially the large Dolabella Rumphii; and
the Actinia squirt water in the face of the intruder, as
they shrink back into their burrows.

When we consider how very numerous the enemies of
Molluscous animals are, we must allow they have much
need for such ingenious modes of defence. On the high
seas they constitute the prey of Dolphins, Cachelots, and
of a thousand voracious fishes, besides insatiate Alba-
trosses and industrious Petrels, which are ever on the alert
to capture them. Along the shores they are snapped up
by patient Turnstones, and enterprising Oyster-catchers ;
and in fresh-water ponds they become the lawful prey
of Plovers, and all those other birds that love oozy
watery haunts. Terrestrial Mollusca find enemies, even
among insects, many Silpkida attacking and destroying
them in the same manner as the Hydropliili and other
Philhydrida prey upon and devour the Pahdinas and
Lymnteas, among aquatic genera.

The list of genera of fresh-water shells in these islands
is limited, as far as my experience goes, to Paludina,
Lymnaa, and Assimincea ; no Succinece, Neritinae, Pla-
norbes, Ampullarite or Melanits were observed by us.
The land-shells were Helix, Pupa, Clausilia, Truncatella,
Carocotta, and Cydostoma.

In the shallow pools left by the receding tide on the
shore of Koo-kien-san, one of these islands, I discovered
a large species of Dorididce, which appears to be the type
of a new genus, differing from all the other genera of the

REMARKABLE MARINE SLUG. 311

family, in having the vent and the gills, which are extruded
from it, situated beneath the edge of the mantle, which
latter is extended beyond the circumference of the foot,
while in all the other genera, as far as I am aware of,
the vent and gills are situated on the mantle itself. This
genus may be called Hypobranchaa, and will be figured
in the * Zoology of the Samarang/ now in course of pub-
lication. The species (H. fmca, Adams,) resembles in
appearance a large, flat, sandy-coloured Slug, and crawls
along in a slow and languid manner over the sandy sur-
face. Owing to its exact resemblance in colour and
appearance to the floor on which it lives, it is well calcu-
lated to escape the notice of many of its enemies. My
specimen was mutilated by a spade in the hands of a
seaman, owing to this circumstance, and although a con-
siderable portion of the foot and mantle was removed,
such was the tenacity of the life of the animal that it
crawled away apparently as if uninjured.

Two of the most remarkable Crustaceans to be met
with in this Group, are the Scopimera globosa of De Haan,
and the Mycteris deflemfrons, of the same naturalist.
The Scopimera globosa forms burrows in the muddy
banks and sandflats, just above low-water mark, per-
forating the surface in every direction. In some parts of
Koo-kien-san, these Crabs are so numerous that they
impart a peculiar colour to the shores when seen at a
little distance. They walk but slowly, and are very in-
active in their habits. When disturbed, they make
awkward efforts to get out of sight, by quickly burying
themselves in the sandy mud like some Macrophthalmi.

IftiQMycterisdeflcxifrons, although somewhat resembling

312 SINGULAR CRUSTACEANS.

Ocypodesin. many particulars, yet differ materially from them
in vivacity of movement. Like their swift-footed consimi-
lars, however, they form superficial burrows in the sandy
mudflats, into which they retreat in a clumsy, scrambling
manner, on the approach of danger. In many parts of
the Meia-co-shimahs I have ridden over many acres of
sandy mud, covered with these bright blue Crabs, and on
looking behind could perceive a dark straight line, made
by the passage of the horse, as he caused them to burrow
in the mud, in his progress onwards. They seem to
enjoy themselves just after the water has left the flats dry,
and appear then to be most on the alert in procuring
food.

There is a species of Gelasimus allied to G. Chloroph-
thalmus (Edwards), with a bright orange foot-claw bigger
than its body, which inhabits burrows, formed among the
grass, in muddy places near the sea, and among the
poorer classes the Ocypode ceratophthalma is collected as
food. They dig them out of their deep sandy burrows
with great eagerness and diligence, by means simply of
their hands. I have seen them sometimes drive them
out by insinuating a long pliant twig into the winding
labyrinth of the crab, and so forcing its inmate to make
its appearance. I have known them also, where the
ground was hard, pour water into the holes, and so in-
undate the poor Ocypode. These people, by examining
certain marks, can tell whether the swift-footed inhabitant
is at home or abroad, and conduct their operations ac-
cordingly.

On the flat sandy beaches of this group of islands, if
you take the trouble to turn over the stones which the

HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS. 313

tide has left dry, you will perceive hundreds of Porcellante,
flattened Crabs, shuffling along the surface of the upturned
stones in a very ludicrous manner. They are very active
and bustling in their habits. This observation, however, ap-
plies more particularly to P.pulchripes (Adams and White)
and the species allied to it ; for another species, P. versi-
mana, (Adams and White) is found among the coral reefs of
Koo-kien-san, and is apathetic and indolent, and P. o&e-
sula (Adams and White) was dredged from twenty-four
fathoms in the Sooloo Sea, and was very sluggish in its
movements. A very rare and delicate little Crab was
ascertained by me to belong to the fauna of this group,
namely, the Mamena unguiformis of De Haan. It is
spider-like in its appearance, slow in its movements, and
lurks concealed in holes of the under-surface of stones
immediately below high- water mark. I discovered, also,
a species of Calappa, allied to C. spinocissima, under
stones, in the shallow sandy bays, which covers itself with
sand, and when captured feigns death, remaining per-
fectly motionless with all its members snugly tucked
under the carapace, and the chelae folded on the front of
the shell. It is a timid and slow-moving creature.

A new species of Alphceus, a curious looking shrimp-
like animal, which inhabits pools under stones on sandy
beaches, and when disturbed makes a sharp loud clicking
noise, by snapping the foot-claws, likewise rewarded our
research. In the Padi fields, a species of Gecarcinus,
allied to G. laterals, is very common, running about in
all directions, feeding on the larvae of Dragon-flies and
other insects, and becoming, in its turn, the prey of the
large Herons that are always to be seen fishing for Frogs

314 HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS.

in those localities. To these may be added new species
of Hippa, Remipes, Trapezia, Macrophthalmns, Pilumnus
and others, which will be described in another place.

In many parts, these islands are over-run with various
kinds of Sesarma, the species of which differ very much
in their habits. Among those I detected as belonging to
the Fauna of the Meia-co-shimah Group, one was found
under stones, on sandy flats just below high- water mark;
another inhabited the coral reefs ; a third, fresh- water
rivulets and pools, hiding under stones and logs, and
climbing the roots of trees with great facility. Another,
allied to 8. affinis, De Haan, has the same habits ; another
species, with the same love of climbing and hiding under
stones, runs more upon the dry land, among the roots of
grass, &c., and is very agile. One, of a marbled, light
sandy colour, with pale grey blotches, lives in the holes
of the sand, in brackish pools ; another, with a hairy
carapace, dark brown and purple, inhabits holes in the
sandy beach above high-water mark ; while in another
part of the world, I found a species living in fresh-water
rivulets among weeds; and in the forest of Celebes
another under damp stones and logs, at some consider-
able distance from fresh-water ponds.

Most of the Dorippe inhabit deep water, from twenty
to thirty fathoms, living on a muddy bottom. They are
very numerous in the China Sea. The Chinese fishermen
often bring them up in their nets, and among large
numbers which I have observed in their boats, I have
found nearly every individual with an adventitious body
(I believe an alcyonoid sponge) attached to the carapace,
and retained in its position by the hooks of the two small

CONTINUED. 315

posterior dorsal pairs of legs. This body is divisible into
a thin brown layer, with concentric fibres, and an ex-
ternal, white lamina, with radiating fibres, and a dark
central nucleus. I have frequently noticed precisely the
same peculiarity in Dromia verrucosipes, in the Meia-co-
shimah Group, and I believe naturalists have perceived
the same habit among other genera. Many of the spe-
cimens both of Dorippe and of Dromia which I examined
in this condition, had perfectly soft carapaces, and this
body may serve them as a protection during the season
of their moulting The Caphyra pectenicola (White) bears
a small pecten shell, in a similar manner. This curious
little Crustacean, which was dredged by us in the Sunda
Straits from thirteen fathoms, takes up its abode in the
deepest valve of the deserted Pecten, locking itself on by
the claws of its posterior legs to the ears of the shell, its
tender back being secured from harm by this adventitious
covering. Sir E. Belcher informs me that he discovered
another species in the Gulf of Papagaya, inhabiting the
single valve of a Terebratula, which was in a partially
softened condition.

Many other genera, as Hyas, Maia, Arctopsis, Mithrax
and Pericera, are well known to have similar propensities,
loading their backs with foreign bodies, Sponges, Algae,
and other Phytozooic and vegetable productions.

On the summits of the hills near the sea-coast of many
of these islands, and particularly on those of Koo-kien-
san, I procured numerous Talitri and Gammari from
among the roots of the long damp grass ; rather a re-
markable circumstance, as these Crustaceans are usually
found close to the margin of the sea, concealing them-

316 HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS.

selves under stones and sea-weed. They were jumping
about in all directions, and appeared to wage a continual
war, not only with hundreds of Tropidinoti and other
Orthopterous insects, but with a bark brown Carabideous
insect, which was found running with great rapidity
among them, evidently bent on destruction.

The Cliarybdis miles of De Haan was swimming and
shuffling about in the shallow water of the flat, sandy
beach, proving a very troublesome companion to those
seamen who were bare-footed, on account of the very
long, large, sharp spiny powerful claws, with which they
are furnished ; for although they fold the chelae on the
forepart of the carapace, and contract their legs when
caught, they would dart among the legs of the boat's
crew, and inflict rather severe scratches. As, however,
they were large, and fit for the pot, this was considered a
mere trifle by honest, hungry Jack.

On one occasion, I was very much surprised and de-
lighted, as we were sitting in a circle with the natives
around a large wood fire, to see some young boys bring
in several large Crabs, having their chelae, or foot-claws,
covered in a very remarkable manner, with a quantity of
coarse silky hair, so very dense and thick that they more
resembled rabbits' feet than the claws of a Crustaceous
animal. These curious Crabs, which were the Eriocheir
Japonicus of De Haan, were immediately, even before
I could rescue a specimen, thrown upon the embers
alive, and when burnt crisp and brown, broken by the
teeth of the assembled islanders, and consumed, with a
few exceptions, shell and all. They appeared very much to
relish this primitive, and somewhat savage kind of feast,

CRABS AND INSECTS. 317

Among the new and interesting Crustacea met with
by us on the coasts, were numerous species of Leucosice.
These handsomely-marked creatures generally affect a
sandy bottom, and live at considerable depths among
Corallines and Madrepores. They are seldom found in
muddy or turbid water, but love the deep sandy banks,
where they move in a sluggish manner, and seem desti-
tute of acute perceptions. Sufficiently protected by their
porcelain shields, they want the quick progression and
threatening attitudes assumed by many Crustaceans.
One of the most beautiful of the species is the Leucosia
hoematosticta (Adams and White), which is of a dead
white colour, covered with numerous round crimson spots.

Among the Orthoptera noticed by us among the islands
was an apparently new genus, between Tropidinotus and
Teratodes, beautifully marbled with crimson, brown, and
yellow; a Phyttoptera, of a dirty, dull, green colour,
having four dark spots on each elytron ; a Mantis, of a
light brown colour ; and a large species of Phasma ; thus
again illustrating the curious intermixture of temperate
and tropical forms, even among the world of insects.
One of the most common Hemiptera was a genus of Cori-
cidce, of a delicate emerald green, with two bright golden
spots on the body. A genus of Orthoptera, allied to
Truxalis, but with the antennae, nearly cylindrical, and
the head not so much produced, was a common inhabi-
tant of the grassy summits of the hills.

There is a large and handsome Glow-worm (Lampyris)
which hides, during the daytime, under dead leaves and
stones ; but which is beautifully luminous during the
night. The penultimate segment, slightly gibbous, con-

318 THE CENTIPEDE.

stitutes a bilobate lamp of great brilliancy, emitting a
much yellower light than the generality of this tribe.
It has a voluntary power of suppressing or evolving
the shining property of its lantern, and when handled,
feigns death, at the same time hiding its light, until the
danger is passed. There are yellow non-luminous spots
on all the other segments, and the upper part of the body
is dark brown, approaching to black. The legs are
brown, with the exception of the distal ends of the femur
and the tarsus, which are of a lighter colour. The head
is furnished with a retractile proboscis, having a yellow
sheath.

The Centipede of this group lays her eggs under flat
stones, to the number of about twelve or fourteen. They
are of a semi-transparent straw colour, and the female
coils herself around them like a snake. In the egg, the
young one is pale, transparent, light-yellow, perfectly
globular, with a slit or mark like the hilum of a seed ;
this slit afterwards forms a deep furrow, and then a wide
fissure, one side of which is somewhat more produced
and becomes the head, and the other, folded inwards, is
the tail and remainder of the body. A large dark spot
then appears on each side of the head, which are the eyes,
and three short legs protrude from the skin towards the
anterior part of the body. Immediately after their ex-
trusion from the egg, the helpless young are nearly pellu-
cid and yellowish, with great black eyes, rounded bodies,
big heads, and rudimental legs ; the segments are but
faintly marked, and the little animal is bent upon itself like
a larva of a Cockchafer ; the antennae show themselves by
degrees, the other members make their appearance, and,

SPIDERS AND SCORPIONS. 319

as well as the body, become distinctly articulated ; the
integument becomes hard and opaque, and the, as yet,
harmless little insect crawls about, languidly at first, but
afterwards more briskly. The mother appears as atten-
tive to her offspring as an Earwig ; and as jealous of
their safety, as a hen over that of her chickens.

There is a small Scolopendra, with equal-sized segments,
of a dull violet colour, found under stones in these islands,
and another small species perfectly black.

The small Scorpion found in rotten wood, under bark,
and under stones, is of a delicate form, and is, I believe, a
species of Androctonus. There is another darker and
larger kind, found also, but more rarely, under stones,
that appears almost identical with the Scorpio Europam,
Although held in great abhorrence by the natives, neither
of these Scorpions possesses much venom, as I had the
misfortune to be stung by one species, and one of the
boat's crew by the other.

The Spiders of the Me'ia-co-shimah Islands exhibit
some very remarkable forms. There is a curious Epeira,
with the dorsal surface of the abdomen furnished with a
radiated crown of hard pointed processes, and the epider-
mis richly painted with brown and gold. It spins a
large and regular web in every brake and bush.

Another large and singular Spider, with long, slender
legs, and an elongated body, black, and marked with
yellow lunules and patches, crawls among the foliage of
the trees in the low woods that occur in some parts of
Pa-tchung-san. Another species of the same genus is
altogether black. I noticed this kind also in the Bashee
Islands.

320 SUBMARINE SCENERY.

The Theliphonus caudatus, a curious osculating link
between the Scorpions and Tarantulas, is not uncommon
in the islands. It remains concealed generally under
logs of wood and stones, and seems to love dark, damp
forests as the seat of its depredations, living in the society
of the larvae of Glow-worms, the Scorpions, the JScolo-
pendra, and a dingy coloured species of Blatta. It is
slow in its movements, and when alarmed raises its
stingless tail in a threatening manner, but never at-
tempts to use its chelicerae, as organs of aggression or of
defence.

I am aware that persons have been accused of allowing
their imagination to trifle too freely with the reins, in
describing submarine scenery; but I shall simply state the
matter as I found it, and in language that came freely on
the spot, and educed from first impressions. Dendritic
Zoophytes, with their slender branches loaded with in-
numerable richly coloured polypi, like trees covered with
delicate blossoms, uprose from the clear clean bottom of
the bay, distinct and characteristic in their specific forms,
and contrasting strangely and powerfully with those most
apathetic and stone-like combinations of the plant, the
animal and the rock, the Madrepores, the Millepores, and
the Nullipores. Flat, and immovably extended on the sand,
in the bare spots between the Corallines, were impassive
large blue five-fingered Asterias ; and crawling with an
awkward shuffling movement, like an Octopus, were num-
bers of the slender Ophiuri, with their snaky arms, groping
their way among the weeds, and striving to insinuate their
writhing forms beneath the coral masses. Fixed flower-
like Actinia were expanding their fleshy petals on the

CONTINUED. 321

rocks ; the slender Nereis • the long-armed Comatula,
and the languid, slow-moving Holothuria, together with
numerous fish and Crustaceans, contributed to prove
that nature is ever weaving the subtle woof of existence
beneath the surface of the waves.

VOL. II

322

CHAPTER IV.

THE PHILIPPINE ARCHIPELAGO.

Anecdote of a Python — Exploration of Sesarma — Curious Cavern —
A ramble about Samboanga — Villages — Scenery — Vegetation —
Aborigines of Mindanao — The Flying-Fox — Remarkable Crabs —
Habits of Spiders — Insects — Mindoro — Hostility of the Natives
— Use of the bow and arrow — Ylin — Poisonous Plant — Insects —
Habits of Molluscous Animals.

ON the 4th of February, 1844, we left Koo-kien-san,
one of the Meia-co-shimah Group, and arrived at Manila
on the 16th of March, where we remained until the 1st
of April. While lying in the truly delightful bay at this
place, a trifling incident occurred, showing the extreme
vivacity, and rapidity of movement, in the larger Serpents,
even in those of the Boa tribe, especially when first captured.
They are, indeed, then very different from those apathetic
listless monsters one sees coiled up in blankets, at Zoolo-
gical Gardens, and in Menageries. Sir Edward Belcher
had a very beautiful specimen of the Python Schneideri
presented to him, about twelve feet long, and having one
day given it a chicken, the reptile, as usual, compressed
it nearly to death, within the muscular folds of its body,
when one of the bystanders, more tender-hearted than

ANECDOTE OF A PYTHON. 323

the rest, begged the life of the fowl. Ihad no sooner,
however, introduced my arm with that benevolent inten-
tion, than throwing back its head, and unwinding its
body from its prey, " the spirited, sly snake," as Milton
would have termed it, darted at my hand with the
greatest velocity, and held me fast with its teeth, by the
ball of the thumb, nor was it without some trouble, that
I was able to extricate myself, owing to the fact that the
long, sharp, curved teeth of a serpent, all point backwards.
Some time after this event, the death-warrant of the
poor reptile was sealed, and I appointed myself his exe-
cutioner. The question was how to persuade a snake so
large and active, to enter a stone jar, filled with spirits of
wine, without making a vigorous resistance. However,
quickly seizing it by the neck, I drew the reptile from
its cage, and had his body held down by a party of volun-
teers. The muscular contractions, however, proved some-
what too powerful for their weight and strength, and the
caudal end escaping wound itself about my leg, which,
perhaps, would have got a squeeze, but for an accession
to our force, in the person of my friend Mr. Charles
Richards. " Vi et armis," the doomed serpent was now
consigned, without mercy, to a death somewhat similar
to that selected by a certain duke of Clarence.

If the enormous Boa-Constrictors described by Pliny
as warring against the Elephants of India, with perpetual
discord, "tantae magnitudinis, ut circumplexu facile
ambiant nexuque nodi praestringant," were as lively in
their movements as our Python of Leuconia, they must
indeed have been " dragons " in every sense of the ex-
pression !

Y 2

324 EXPLORATION OF SESARMA.

Schlegel, in his ' Physiognomy of Serpents/ observes,
in a note p. 98, " Professor Reinwardt has witnessed, at
Java, a spectacle which proves that it is not always right
to trust to these animals (Boas). A Javanese had carried
to the house of M. Van der Capelle, a large Python, and
wishing to make it come out of the basket in which it
was, the serpent, by a single stroke, gave him a very con-
siderable wound, laying open his fore-arm through all its
length."

On the 1st of April we left Manila, and on the 5th
examined the reefs about Panagatan, and while here
examined the small island of Sesarma.

We passed a very agreeable day, wandering about
collecting plants, catching insects, and hunting lizards,
until we were fairly tired out, and then reclining at our
ease, took a siesta in a cool cave, which we accidentally
discovered in the rocks along the sea-shore. This cavern
had a very narrow entrance, but when once you had
found your way into the interior, there was a high, arched
roof, with numerous stalactites hanging pendent from it,
and, arising from the bottom, stalagmites of various
shapes and sizes ; myriads of dark flitting bats fluttered
in the uncertain light, vibrating their leathery wings with
a low, murmuring sound, while others clung in huge,
dark clusters to the chasms in the roof; the calcareous
floor of the cavern was whitened with the accumulated
excrement of these twilight-loving animals. As nothing
is to be done in these expeditions without lighting a fire,
I assembled the jolly-boat boys, left under my command,
and, with incredible labour, brought together a vast heap
of drift wood, dried leaves and grass, which soon became

SAMBOANGA. 325

a blaze, and illuminated gloriously the interior of our
cavern ; but, alas ! short-sighted mortals that we were,
forgetting the necessity of a chimney, and the aperture
being small, we were completely smoked out, to our no
small discomfort.

On the 6th of April we touched at the Cagayanes, and
on the 8th we anchored off Zamboangan, or Samboanga,
a penal settlement of the Spaniards on the Island of
Mindanao, or Majindanao, as it is sometimes written, and
notwithstanding the somewhat equivocal character of many
of its inhabitants, one of the most pleasing places we
visited among the Philippines, a few observations on
which may not be displeasing to my readers. Owing to
the kindness of Sir Edward, and the liberality of the
Governor, I was enabled to enjoy a very pleasant little
excursion, of several days, in the neighbouring country.
Mounted on an excellent horse (which, however, on
starting, managed to rear so high as to fall backwards
upon me, without doing me much injury, as I had time
to slip away before his hoofs could reach me,) and ac-
companied by a very intelligent guide, one Mariano
Alvirez, I proceeded, at an easy pace, through the villages
of Varris el San Juadedios, Tesseros, Carielar, Caritador,
Prenza, Santa Maria, Tumogan, Paraguiaba, Voal, Lama-
Lama, Tirando-alerte, and, lastly, Tugbugan, admiring
in my progress the wild luxuriance of vegetable life in
these latitudes, here spread out in all its prodigality, in
the form of splendid trees and

" flowers as wild and fair
As ever dressed a bank or scented summer air."

Here and there the naked, muddy skins of large-bodied

326 PLANTS

Buffaloes were seen wallowing in weedy ponds, or browsing
placidly among the bamboo mazes, or, with enduring
patience, engaged in drawing burdens ; here and there,
at various turnings, quaintly carved and antique wooden
crosses would remind you of being in a Catholic, though
savage country, while the open hospitality of the villagers,
and the vows of brotherhood and eternal friendship prof-
fered you in every direction, brought to mind the prodigal
liberality of their noble-minded Spanish subjugators.

It would be endless to enumerate all of the botanical
beauties of Samboanga, but the handsome scarlet flowers
of the Poinciana, the feathery foliage of the Tamarind,
the grateful Guava, and the Palms, those " magnificent
offspring of Tellus and Phaebus ; " the agreeable subacid
fruit of the Tambeio, the large dense foliage "of the Bread-
fruit, and the aromatic Lime and Orange, were all worthy
of the passing notice of the student of nature.

To these may be added the Bugo, or Piper Betel,
climbing gracefully in the gardens ; with its less illus-
trious compeer the Sanquilo (P. obliquurti), the Dyospyros
embriopteris, or Luya, the Mango {Mangifera Indicd),
ihGLumboi(Calyptrant/tes), theBixa, or Achote; another
species of Dyospyros, called by the natives " Mabolo ; "
the Balibago, a kind of Hibiscus, the Balod, or Nauclea,
the Tubadalag, or Callicarpa, and the luxuriant groves of
the Caurayan, or Bambusa ; the graceful hanging foliage,
and brilliant berries of the Abrus precatoria, the lofty
trunk, and stupendous pods of the Cassia yrandis, the
long and pendent fruit of the singular Stravadium album,
the bell-shaped flowers of the succulent viviparous-leaved
Bryophyllum calyc'mum, the elegant climbing Clitoria ler-

CONTINUED. 327

nata, with its large blue butterfly-flowers ; the white and
purple blossoms of the Cleome viscosa, the golden Coreopsis,
adhering like a parasite to the trees, and twining epiphytic
Loranthi ; the compound leaves and yellow spikes of the
medicinal Cassia alata, and along the sea-beach the tre-
foil leaves and the blue flowers of the Vitex trifolia, the
clustering trunks of the Banyan tree, and the golden
downy fronds of a gigantic fern. I did not fail to recog-
nize the Gogo (Entada pwrsathd), an infusion of the
spongy fibres of the trunk of which, is used by the natives
for various affections of the skin, and which I have also seen
employed with some advantage. The pods of the Theo-
broma cacao were ripening on the trees. A most delicious
chocolate is manufactured at Samboanga from the seeds;
many parts of the plant are also used medicinally. The
glutinous sap of the Bombax pentandrum is here applied
to parts affected by Rheumatism, and the cottony seeds
are used as soporific pillows, like those famous poppy
ones of Somnus. The down, moreover, forms an excellent
moxa.

The fresh fruit of the Butong (Barringtonia speciosa)
is bruised and thrown into the water to benumb fish at
Samboanga, and fishing-nets are made of the dried
fibres. The flowers are large, and very beautiful, the
long stamina forming an elegant scarlet tassel. The
other species (B. racemosa) flowers in May. The seeds
of the Camonsilis (Fuya lanceolatd) are used in alleviating
the painful punctures of the venomous spines of the Ray
and other fish.

Among other trees, a variety of the Banga, or Areca
Catechu (Immilis), was pointed out, distinguished by its

328 ABORIGINES

flattened fruit, and diminutive size. The Rosmarinm,
" Romero," or Rosemary, is carefully cultivated in pots,
and much esteemed by the natives as a stomatic.

Near the village of Tugbugan I had an opportunity of
seeing two of the aborigines of Mindanao " los Indies," as
the Spaniards call them, to distinguish them from " los
Negros " or Papuans, and " los Moros," or Malays. They
are also named Manabos by some, although so numerous
are the tribes, that it is difficult to determine them with any
precision, for they appear to be almost as numerous as those
of Borneo. Those I saw were stated by the villagers to live
in the mountains, to acknowledge no authority, to go
nearly naked, and to live chiefly on the Sago and Indian
Corn. Then* arms, which I likewise inspected, consisted
of large painted shields, the sumpitan, spear, and parang
or chopping-knife, which all bore a striking resemblance
to those used by the Dyaks. The men were of fine
proportions, and somewhat noble bearing, of a light black
colour ; the nose straight and well developed, the facial
angle and lips like those of the negro, and the hair crisp,
and disposed in distinct masses over the head. Then-
eyes were large and black, and their faces smooth and
shining, without any vestige of a beard. The people of
Samboanga and the neighbouring villages affect to hold
these natives in the utmost terror and disdain. Like the
Arafuras of New Guinea and the Aru Islands, the Dyaks
of Borneo, the Monaboes inhabiting the interior of
Malaya, and the Rajangs and Battas occupying the
mountaing of Sumatra, these aborigines of Mindanao,
according to the information of my guide, and certain
village gossips, who seemed well acquainted with them,

CONTINUED. 329

live in separate communities, each governed by an inde-
pendent chief. Their dress resembles that of most savage
tribes, being simply a strip of cloth encircling the waist,
with one end brought down in front, passed between the
legs, and fastened behind. Their hair being crisp, wavy,
and growing in separate tufts, or bunches, in the same
manner as that of the Papuan or Pelagian negroes, would
seem to indicate that in Mindanao, as in Borneo, negro-
like races inhabit the interior. 1 do not think the people
I saw belonged to any of those savage tribes alluded to
by Prichard, " who are supposed to belong to the race
of Harafaras, and are said to have some analogy in
dialect and physiognomy with the Idaan or Dyaks of
Borneo." *

Although it may have been satisfactorily proved by the
researches of Prichard and others, that the races of
Oceanica are distinct, and cannot be derived either from
the Peruvians on the eastern boundary, or from the
tribes of South Africa, which bound them on the west ;
yet it is curious to trace analogies between people appa-
rently so very distinct as the Malayo-Polynesians, and
the various tribes disseminated over the continents of the
two Americas. I never visited a horde of Dyaks without
involuntarily thinking of North American Indians, pro-
bably, from some similarity of feeling that exists between
them, as to the necessity of either scalping their enemies
or of chopping off their heads. In many points their
religious belief is also the same. " That enigmatical
subdivision of the natives into an almost countless mul-

* Phys. Hist, of Mankind, vol. v. p. 59.

330 ABORIGINES.

titude of greater and smaller groups, and that almost
entire exclusion and excommunication with regard to
each other, in which mankind presents its different
families to us in America, like fragments of a vast ruin,"
alluded to by Dr. Von Martins, likewise reminds one of
the scattered wandering tribes of beings, that rove from
place to place in the interior of Borneo. It has been
said that the astronomy of Mexico is of Asiatic origin,
and philologists inform us that the Malay and Peruvian
dialects have many words that may be referred to com-
mon roots ; and it is singular that in many of their habits
and customs may be traced a sort of similarity. For in-
stance, the use of the sumpitan and poisoned arrows is in
vogue among the wild people of Guiana, as it is among
our Mends the Dyaks ; the habit of filing the teeth sharp,
and of using a constant masticatory, as lime with a narcotic
leaf, is peculiar both to Peruvians and to Malayo-Poly-
nesians. As with languages, so it is with the aborigines
of any climate, the more primitive their condition, the
more nearly they approximate a simple common type ;
and we may thus account for the casual resemblance ob-
served between the savages of America and those of the
Indian Archipelago. Amongst the Malays and Bugis,
civilization has imprinted certain moral and physical
peculiarities, which enables them, although of the same
family of mankind, to stand out in bold relief from their
more ignorant, primitive, and less-fortunate brothers.

The " Filipinos," or the peaceable people of Bisayan
origin, that constitute the principal portion of the popu-
lation of the Philippine Islands, believe that the aboriginal
races of the interior came originally from Borneo, and it

FLYING FOXES. 331

is a curious fact that the legends and traditions of Java
assert, that the inhabitants of that island came from
Borneo ; and indeed some writers believe, that all the
different races belonging to the Asiatic Islands were
derived from this common focus, although it is far more
likely, in my opinion, that, as Dr. Prichard conceives, all
the various races of these islands may originally have
been derived from the peninsula of Malacca, which con-
stitutes the south-eastern extremity of Asia ; for that is
the only continent which contains men at all resembling
in physical characters the Oceanic tribes.

The Pteropi, or Flying Foxes, take their departure at
the fall of day, from their places of concealment, among
the low islands, in thousands, ah1 steadily wending their
way towards the huge forests of the interior, where their
favourite fruits are found, and at the early blush of dawn
they are seen returning, in like manner, to their diurnal
haunts, where they hide in hollow trees, or caverns
among the rocks, or hang suspended by the thumbs
from the under-surface of the trees among the dense
foliage. When the Pteropus flies, he generally chooses an
exalted station in the air, and his motions are deliberate,
noiseless, and crow-like.

At the watering-place not far from the small village of
Calderas, among other interesting specimens, I captured
the rare Utica yracttipes, (White) which has the very re-
markable habit of strongly contracting all its members
when caught, with what may be termed a cataleptic rigi-
dity ; and this trick, together with its singular tabular
brown carapace, enables it to escape detection among the
dead leaves and rotten pieces of wood, which almost in-

332 HABITS OF SPIDERS

variably fill the ponds and rivulets in the tropics. This
mode of feigning death to escape its enemies, is the more
curious in this Crab, as it appears to be allied to the Grap-
#id(e, which are very energetic in then* endeavours to escape.
The under-surface is dark brown, of a lighter tinge on
the legs and post-abdomen, which latter has a light yel-
lowish line down the middle.

Near the same spot, and not far from Calderas, a
species of Sesarma, of a brown colour, with the tips of
the chelae orange, and the cornea of the eye perfectly
concave, is very common. It lives in the fresh- water
rivulets, among weeds, like the Utica ; while another spe-
cies is found under damp logs, and stones, at a considerable
distance from any water.

Never have I been better amused than when observing,
in the forests of Mindanao, the habits of the extraordi-
nary spiders that abound there, to figure and describe
the varied forms of which, would require the pencil of
Abbot, and many years of unwearied application.

The bodies of the Epeirce, seen in the tropics, are often
most splendidly ornamented, I might almost say illumi-
nated, for many of them remind you of the gaudy ancient
missals, painted by monks in the dark ages. You may
have white figures on a red ground ; red, yellow, and
black, in alternate streaks ; orange marbled with brown ;
light green, with white ocelli ; yellow, with light brown
festoons ; or ash-coloured, and chesnut bodies, with
crescents, horse-shoes, Chinese characters, and grotesque
hieroglyphics of every description. Then, again, the
shape of their bodies is endless in variety; they are
round or oval, flattened or globular, angular, tubercu-

CONTINUED. 333

lated, lobed, spined, or furnished with hairy tufts.
These examples,

" Whose shapes would make them, had they bulk and size,
More hideous foes than fancy can devise,"

taken at random during one or two excursions in the
woods, will tend to show what a wide field is open to the
naturalist in these regions of the sun, provided he has
nothing of more importance to engage his attention than
the investigation of Apterous insects.

In the forests about Calderas, I collected some splendid
species of gold and silver-marked Tetragnatha. One,
which might be named T. nitens, has a dark, shining-
brown thorax, and a glittering silvery body, with five
black spots ; the legs banded with dark brown, and the
under side light black. It constructs a large, ingenious,
symmetrical web, and drops, when touched, to the
ground ; taking care, however, at the same time, to sus-
pend itself by a web, by means of which it ascends again,
when the enemy has departed. In the centre of its web,
it spins concentric circles, and thick, irregular mazes,
of a fine yellow colour, and often of very complicated
devices. When it falls to the ground, it folds up its legs,
and feigns death, all its members being perfectly rigid.
The Tetraffnatha have a remarkable habit of dividing
their eight legs, as they cling, head downwards, to the
centre of their toils, throwing out four directly forwards,
and four directly backwards. Some species, however,
have the third pair of legs extended straight out, in a
lateral direction. Another common species had a body
mottled with dark brown, and covered with white
markings ; legs brown, banded ; the thorax burnished

334 HABITS OF SPIDERS

bright green, with darker markings. I have named it,
provisionally, T. refulgens. Numbers of the genus Theri-
dion, of a black colour, were running actively about
among the dry, dead leaves that strewed the ground ;
and some handsomely-coloured species were discovered
crouching among the foliage of the trees. One was
marked like the T. Sisyphus of Haan (Tab. 58. fig. 132.) ;
and another large-sized species was of a bright emerald
green. The Attus formicoides (Walckenaer), or an allied
species, was basking on the dead leaves in the sunny
spots ; and numerous pretty species of Salticus, allied to
8. crux (Haan, Tab. 17. fig. 52.), but of much larger
dimensions, were common spiders. A species of Attus,
allied to \ formicoides, which may be called splendens, was
taken here. It was of a brilliant metallic green -gold,
withj the under-surface fine metallic purple ; the legs
banded with light brown, and burnished green. It was
springing about the foliage of the low trees. Another
Attus was of a shining black, with several bright ultra-
marine spots on the abdomen, and light brown legs,
banded with darker brown. Numbers of black-coloured
Theridia were running about over the dead leaves, simu-
lating, at a little distance, so many odd-shaped Ants ;
numerous other species of this genus, which were seen
living among the flowers and foliage of the trees, had
their abdomens variegated with beautiful colours. One
species, with a hairy body and legs, and shining chesnut-
coloured chelicera, runs quickly when pursued, and uses
these organs in self-defence. Its body is of a dark olive
brown, and it appears to love dark nooks and holes of
the bark of trees, and frequently hangs suspended from

CONTINUED. 335

the under-surface of the leaves. I observed another
species, which knew it was being watched, place itself
upon a diseased leaf, where it remained quite stationary
until after I had taken my departure ; and had I not seen
the sidelong movement of the cunning little creature, in
the first instance, I should not have been able to distin-
guish its body from the eroded surface of the leaf. Those
that live among the foliage and flowers, are vividly
coloured, and many flies and other insects are, no doubt,
attracted towards these Spiders, by reason of their
gaudily-tinted bodies. I have seen the abdomen of one
marked with lilac, yellow, and crimson, three powerfully
contrasted colours. Others are green, and actually reti-
culated, like the veined surface of a leaf, with the mid-
rib running down the centre, and the secondary nervures
proceeding outwards from each side ; the bodies of others
resemble the splendid variegated blossoms of the sorts of
Calceolarias, grown in our gardens.

Several timid, soft, retiring, long-legged Pholci, with
fawn-coloured bodies, and semi-transparent red-brown
legs, covered with long hairs, formed large, loose webs
among the rotten wood and leaves that strewed the
ground. The legs of these arachnidans appear too weak
to support their bodies in running; therefore they resemble
their aquatic marine analogues, the Pycnogonidce, which
remain stationary among the tangled and thread-like
Keratophytes, which constitute the webs of those spider-
like Crustaceans, and thus watch cautiously their prey ;
and when it is caught in the toils, consume it at their
leisure, thus making up by cunning and persevering
watching for the want of that strength and force

336 INSECT-ADAPTATIONS.

possessed by some of their consimilars. Most of the
Crustacea would appear, on a careful comparison, to have
very distinct analogies with the families of Arachnidans.

The nimble-limbed Dolomedes, that run after their
prey, and catch them by swiftness of foot, rather than by
stratagem, have slender legs, and, living on the ground,
are generally of dingy colours ; with the exception, how-
ever, of those very large and powerful species, which, if
not rendered somewhat conspicuous to the sight of other
insects, might do too much damage to the tribes they are
destined to keep in check ; most of these, therefore, have
the thorax and abdomen margined with 'a light colour,
that contrasts strongly with that of their bodies. The
Saltici generally resemble, more or less, the colour of the
places they inhabit. I noticed a species among the
dense thickets, formed by Abrus precatoria and other
trees, with a black abdomen, marked on each side with
dull scarlet, curious as being the colours of the seeds
of Abrus, which are called by children " black-a-moor
beauties ;" those species that live on the bark of trees are
mottled grey and brown, and those which you find upon
the ground, are altogether black or dingy coloured.

It is an interesting fact, that those gay insects, which
love to sun themselves in the open parts of the forests,
exposed to view upon the leaves, like the brilliant Bupres-
tidce, and other splendid beetles of the tropics, are
glorious in their hues, while dingy-coloured Coleoptera,
like the Helluo, in his funereal dress, hide in obscure
holes and corners, where the sight may never reach them.
The Necrophagous Silphida, again, are most commonly
of obscure colouring, and conceal their dingy bodies in

HOSTILITY OF NATIVES. 337

putrid carcases, while their consimilars, the Nitidulida,
that spend their lives among the gaily-coloured petals of
flowering plants, are splendid with metallic tints. In like
manner there is a wide difference between those Lamelli-
corn beetles, which fly by night, like Lucanus, or burrow
in the ground, like Geotrupes, or conceal themselves
under dung, like Aphodim ; and those glittering insects,
which, like the Stephanorina, Coryphocera, and Cetonia,
revel amid the blossoms of the' most lovely flowers.

On the 6th of December, the c Samarang ' was once
more anchored in Manila Bay ; on the 30th of January,
1846, we again examined the Panagatan shoals, and on
the 4th of February, commenced surveying the small
islands of Ambolon and Ylin, situated at the south end
of Mindoro, one of the Philippines.

The people of this part of Mindoro, privately pursuing
piracy, imagined we were possessed of the same propen-
sities. On one occasion, a party armed with bows and
arrows, attacked the crew of our jolly-boat ; and not far
from the principal village of Ylin, some natives shot an
arrow at the captain's gig, which fell in the water along-
side. On our approaching the village the people were
prepared to give us a hostile reception ; but on our
landing with loaded muskets, they retreated, soon laid
aside their useless bows and arrows, and became very
good friends. Their fort, situated at the top of a steep
hill, was filled with their women, who had run up there
for shelter. A market was soon opened, in a large house
under the surveillance of the chief of the village, and it
was a very amusing sight to see a number of old women
bringing in their pigs for sale, tied by a string ; others

VOL. II. Z

338 USE OF THE BOW AND ARROW.

offering tempting bunches of bananas; many praising
their fighting-cocks, and others the freshness of their
eggs. The scenery from the fort was very beautiful ; soft
green hills, in many parts crowned with a dense mass of
noble trees, extended for miles, in every direction, behind
the village.

This is the only time I have seen the bow and arrow
in use among the Malayo-Polynesian tribes ; and although
the Javanese are said by Crawford to be extremely fond
of the exercise of the bow and arrow, as an amusement ;
yet we do not find either the bow, the club, or the sling,
among the primitive Dyaks, or any other aborigines of
the Indian Islands, except the Bisayan race. At the
Bashee Group, the inhabitants of which belong to the
same stock as those which people the coasts of Mindoro,
although at present an unarmed population, yet retain a
recollection of the bow and arrow. We were shown
several very long and powerful bows, in the house of the
native chief of the mission of San Domingo. Those
primitive weapons, the bow and arrow, have given place,
among most of the islands, to the more refined invention
of shooting envenomed arrows through a long cylindrical
tube ; and for hand to hand weapons of aggression, they
have fashioned the useful iron into kris blades, and the
heads of spears. In Crawford's account of an attack
made on Manila by the British, in 1762, it is stated that
five thousand Indians " presented themselves, armed with
javelins, and with bows and arrows, for the relief of the
garrison." *

In our survey of Ylin, we occasionally regaled ourselves
* Hist. Ind. Archipel. vol. ii. p. 475.

POISONOUS PLANTS. 339

with the boiled leaves of the Colocasia esculenta, which
we found very palatable. One of the seamen, thinking
they were equally good in an uncooked state, incautiously
chewed some of the leaves, thereby producing great pain
and swelling of the tongue, with an inflammation of the
fauces, that lasted several days. At Hong-Kong, where
the tubers of the same plant are eaten, under the name
of Cocoas, several marines came to me with the same
symptoms. It is a curious fact, that most edible roots are
yielded by plants possessed of poisonous qualities. The
Potatoe is allied to the Deadly Nightshade ; one species
of Sweet-Potatoe, the Batatas paniculata, is a violent
cathartic ; the nutritious Cassava and Tapioca, are pre-
pared from a root, the expressed juice of which is dange-
rously poisonous; and it would be easy to multiply
examples, proving the same fact. In Hampshire, the
poor people gather the leaves of the " Lords-and-Ladies "
(Arum maculatum), which belongs to the same natural
order as the Colocasia, and esteem them, when boiled,
excellent eating.

A ramble at a little distance from the village, furnished
me with a very handsome Lamia, allied to Ceratites, of a
dark-brown colour, with numerous yellow eye-like spots
on the elytra, most probably an entirely new species.
The dark purple Pachyrhynchus moniliferus, with nume-
rous small ultramarine markings on its gibbose elytra, and
another species, of a light chesnut-brown, were found
clinging to the leaves of the low bushes ; and lurking
under loose bark, was a species of Uloma, one of the
Tenebrionidfs, with reddish antennae, and black polished
elytra. In the river that runs through the village,

z 2

340 HABITS OF MOLLUSKS.

I noticed several species of Melania and Neritina, and
one species of Ampullaria.

During many agreeable boat-expeditions among these
islands, I had numerous opportunities of observing the
habits of molluscous animals. I shall only add here,
however, a few remarks on the Mitra and Calpurnus,
reserving other details for the ' Zoology of the Samarang/
where figures of the animals of many species of shells
will be published.

In its habits, the Calpurnus (Ovulum verrucosumj is a
very slow-moving, and sluggish mollusk, with all the
peculiarities of the Cowries, and exhibits a singularly
beautiful and striking appearance under the calm, shal-
low water, as it glides tranquilly along the bright sandy
bottom. The spots on the mantle are much smaller,
and more irregular in form, than those on the foot.
The head is pure opaque white, with the exception of
one large black spot, placed in the centre of the forepart,
which, with its large black eyes, and black-tipped ten-
tacles, gives it a very peculiar appearance. It was taken
alive by us at the extreme southernmost end of the
Island of Mindoro, not far from Ylin, in shallow water,
and on a sandy bottom. The Calpurnus appears to be
rather numerous among these small islets, though, in
other parts of the Philippines, I only met with specimens
dead, and thrown up along the beach.

For a mollusk furnished with such a heavy shell, the
Ranella is by no means an inactive animal. It moves
with considerable animation, thrusting out its head, pro-
truding its tentacles and proboscis, and ascending even
perpendicular surfaces with considerable facility. One

AN OYSTER SUPPER. 341

species, dredged from twenty fathoms water, was furnished
with a very extensive proboscis, which it was able to
exsert to the distance of two inches from the head, using
it as a perceptive organ, in the same manner as the
Elephant does his trunk.

I have observed the animal of Eulima major, in the
living state, at Looc Bay, in the Philippines, at Cagayan-
Sooloo, and at the Panagatan shoals, near Apo Island.
This mollusk, which I have described in the ' Annals and
Magazine of Natural History,' is slow-moving, and ex-
cessively timid, retreating quickly within its shell on the
slightest alarm. The animal is entirely of an opaque
pearly white; the eyes black, and generally concealed
under the front of the shell, as are those small, reflected
lobes of the mantle, which produce the polished surface
of the Eulima ; the tentacles are yellow at the tip, orange
in the middle, and white at the base. It wonld remain
for hours after capture without moving, and emerge from
its polished castle with the utmost caution and distrust.

The old stakes of the numerous fishing wears laid
down by the natives among the shallows of these islands,
are incrusted with Oysters of a very delicious flavour ; and
it was a source of much amusement, after the labours of
the day were done, to collect a number of these oyster-
loaded stakes, and cook them in the fires which we had
lighted to cheer our bivoua'c. Seated in a circle, we
watched, with hungry interest, the opening of these delec-
table mollusks, when scooping out the savoury morsels
with our knives, we enjoyed the feast kind nature had
provided us.

In the animal of Lima, the long, slender finger-like

342 THE LIMA.

foot, developed from the centre of that portion of the
body which includes the viscera, is furnished with the
power of producing a tenacious kind of secretion, which
hardens in something like the same manner as the cobweb,
after leaving the spinneret of the spider, and thus con-
stitutes a temporary kind of byssus ; which is somewhat
remarkable, as the Lima is a most locomotive mollusk,
and endowed with as much animation and vivacity as a
Pecten; and from another reason that most lamelli-
branchiate mollusks, which spin a byssus, have the foot in
general but very little developed. The Lima usually
live quietly at the bottom with the valves widely extended
and thrown flat back, like the wings of certain butter-
flies, when basking in the sun; but when disturbed, they
start up, flap their light valves, and move rapidly through
the water, by a continued succession of sudden jerks.
The cause of alarm over, they bring themselves to an
anchor by means of their provisional byssus, which they
seem to fix with much care and attention, previously ex-
ploring every part of the surface with their singular leech-
like foot. When many hundreds of these curious bivalves
are seen at the bottom of clear pools, surrounded by
living branches of party-coloured coral, their crimson
spotted mantles and delicate spiral appendages that fringe
the edges, cause them to exhibit a very rich and beautiful
appearance.

Although M. Quoy has rightly termed the Mitra an
" animal apathetique," yet among the Philippines, and in
the China Sea, about the low coral islands, I have seen
the small longitudinally-ribbed species crawl about pretty
briskly over the smooth sand. The Mitra episcopalis,

HABITS OF MITRES. 343

probably on account of the small size of its locomotive
disc, and the ponderous nature of its long shell, is de-
cidedly a very sluggish mollusk. I have observed some
of the auricula-shaped Mitres, that live among the Philip-
pines, in the shallow pools left by the receding tide,
crawling about the stones, out of the water, in company
with the Planaxis and Quoyia. The Mitres, however, in
general, like many of the larger Volutes,, crawl in societies
of many dozens, over the sandy mud-flats in shallow
water, and are more particularly active just before the
flood-tide makes. When the tide recedes, they bury
themselves superficially in the yielding soil, and are with
difficulty discovered. Some of the small, ribbed species
cover themselves entirely with the sandy mud, and in
that disguised condition, travel about in comparative
security. On one occasion, in the small island of Ambo-
lon, at the south end of Mindoro, I was walking up to
my ankles in water, over a firm, sandy mud-flat, taking
little notice of the Cones, Strombi, Melcagrina, and
Volutes which people the water in great numbers, but
looking about anxiously for the rarer Mitres, when I first
perceived these small species, under their ingenious dis-
guise, marching in towards the shore, as the tide flowed
rapidly over the level surface. Persons, by the way,
should never venture in places of this description bare-
footed, as there is a species of Pinna which buries its
sharp end in the mud, but leaves the thin, trenchant
edges of the gaping extremities exposed, which, when
trodden on, inflict very deep and painful incised wounds.
Both myself and several of the boat's crew suffered in
this way.

344 THE MITRE-SHELLS.

The Philippines would seem to harbour the greatest
number of these elegant and beautiful shells, although a
great many species were obtained by Mr. Cuming in
Tropical America. They appear to be chiefly confined to
the equatorial regions, scarcely any being natives of cold
climates. I have met with several among the Meia-co-
shimah Islands, at Loo-Choo, Japan, and at the Keeling,
or Cocos Islands.. They are most generally to be found
in somewhat shallow water, among the ledges of rocks,
between small islands, where the water barely covers the
land, and within the shelter of coral reefs, sometimes
preferring a clear, sandy bottom, and at other times
affecting a hard, muddy, sandy soil. The transversely-
ribbed species, such as Mitra circulata, are frequently
found in very deep water, and many were dredged by us
in twenty and thirty fathoms, at Sooloo, and in the
China Sea.

The animal of Mitra circulata, one of these deep-
water species, is very prettily marked. The body is grey,
varied with round, well-developed, white spots, and a
series of dark-brown blotches, of a pyramidal form,
arranged round the lower edge in a Vandyke pattern,
and below that, a white rim, with a row of small, linear,
horizontal, black spots ; the head is white, marbled with
grey-brown ; the eyes black, and the tentacles white, with
a large oval, black spot in their middle ; the siphon is
brown, edged with black, and with a broad white band
at its free extremity. The operculum is very minute,
horny, and transparent. In general, however, the Mitres,
notwithstanding the elaborate markings of their shells, are
riot remarkable for bright colours on their bodies.

ADAPTATIONS. 345

Another species, with the same habits, the Mitra
circulata, is semi-opaque-white, faintly mottled with
light brown ; with the eyes at the outer base of the ten-
tacles, and black.

The animal of Conohelix, of Swainson, does not differ
from that of Mitra. One species, probably new, I have
found buried rather deep in the soft, black mud, under
the roots of the trees in Mangrove swamps, above high-
water mark, in the Island of Basilan. The C. marmo-
rata is found in company with many species of Mitres,
crawling slowly over the sandy mud, in shallow places,
among the Islands of the Philippine Archipelago.

St. Pierre, in his ' Studies of Nature,' * has very truly
remarked, that the animals of shells which crawl and travel,
and which can, consequently, choose their own asylums,
are in general those of the richest colours ; such are the
gaudily-tinted Nerites, and the polished marbled Cow-
ries ; the Olives richly ornamented with three or four
colours ; and the Harps, which have tints as rich as the
most beautiful Tulips; while among the bivalves the
vivacious Pectens coloured scarlet and orange, and a
host of other travelling shells are impressed with the
most lively colours. But those which do not swim, as
the Oysters, which are adherent always to the same rocks;
or those which are perpetually at anchor in the straits,
attached to the stones by their byssi, as the Pinnas and
Muscles ; or those which repose on the bosom of Madre-
pores, such as the Arcs; or those which are entirely
buried in the calcareous rocks, as the Lithodomi; or those
which immovably, by reason of their weight, pave the
* Vol. iii. p. 67.

346 ADAPTATIONS.

surface of the reefs, as the Tridacna, and those great uni-
valves, such as the Turbos ; or, in short, those which
always remain motionless, like the Limpets, which are
attached, by forming a vacuum on the smooth surface of
rocks : all these species of shells are of the colour of the
bottoms, or floors, which they respectively inhabit, in
order, no doubt, that they shall be less perceived by their
enemies.

347

CHAPTER V.

THE SOOLOO AND MOLUCCA ARCHIPELAGOES.

Sooloo — Appearance of the People — Gigantic drum — The Tsjampaka —
Tlie Sooloos poison the water — Their fondness for Pearls — Fanciful
origin of those concretions — The Sultan's fable respecting them —
Sea-Snakes — Origin of " Great Sea-Serpent " — Water Spouts —
Shells, and their inhabitants — Apo Island — Malay fishing village
— Questionable character of its occupants — Shooting excursion in
Basilau — Hostilities in the Island — Habits of Spiders — Curious
Shell-fish — Unsang — Wild Animals — Apes — Gigantic Crane —
Lace-Lizard — Crocodile — Insects — Celebes— Cape Rivers — Marine
Animals — Manado — Forest Scenery — Adaptations — Anecdote of
a Bee — Curious Insects— Land-Crabs — Habits of Crustaceans —
Island of Meyo— Whale— Turtles— Fish — Lizard — Shells —
Ternate — The Malukus — Habits of Spiders.

On the 16th of April, 1844, we arrived for the first time
at the city of Sooloo, which we again visited in December
of the same year, and in February, 1845. The uncon-
quered Sooloos, considered the bravest warriors in these
seas, and whose chief city has been termed the " Algiers
of the East," invariably go armed, being usually provided
with a formidable spear, as well as wearing in their
sarongs their ever-constant companion, the murderous
kris. The countenance of the Sooloos is not agreeable ;
there is something more morose, fierce and vindictive-

348 THE SOOLOOS.

looking about them, than is to be noticed among other
varieties of the Malay race. Their figures, moreover, are
taller, better proportioned, and of a bolder aspect than
those of the generality of Malays. Some of the young girls
are very nearly white, and many of them tolerably good-
looking ; though, as is most generally the case in these
countries, they lose their fair proportions, as they advance
in years. They manufacture a fine stuff" from the fibres
of the Plantain, in a very simple and primitive sort of
manner, their loom being composed of a few sticks, and
the woof being secured around their waists. With this
exception, they appear to do nothing but pound padi
for the use of their lords and masters.

Near the city are numerous grassy plains, where
Water-Buffaloes, and a small, well-formed breed of horses
graze, in considerable numbers. In the huge, rudely-
constructed temple, where the followers of Mahomet
meet together, is a gigantic drum, like that one in the
city of Brunai, formed of the trunk of an enormous tree,
and covered with a buffalo's hide. This summons the
Mussulmans to daily prayers, in lieu of the call of the
Muezzin. During an audience with the Sultan, I could
not help admiring the gorgeous dresses and fine forms
of some of these Sooloo warriors, many among them
evincing much taste in the selection of their colours, &c.
The road to the " Hall of Audience " was rendered very
attractive by groves of Cocoa-nut trees, mingled with the
fragrant Tsjampaka (Michelia Champacd), that splendid
member of the Magnolia tribe, the flowers of which,
together with the Nyctafttlius, or Malati, and the Tanjung
(Mmtsops elengi }, are worn in the glossy hair of the

POISON THE WATER. 349

Indian maidens ; or thrown on the tables, mingled with
citron-flowers, and Jasmines, at the banquets of the
great, for the delicious perfume exhaled by the petals ;
and whose foliage aifords such a grateful shade in the
villages of the Malays in these burning regions.

The men of Sooloo, like the Malays and Bugis of
Celebes and Borneo, are passionately fond of cock-fighting,
frequently staking the whole of their personal property
on the result of a battle. The spurs they use are scythe-
shaped, long, sharp, and made of steel, and are sometimes
fastened to one leg, and frequently to both. Groups of
these arch-pirates, the warlike Sooloos, may be always
seen in the mud-streets of their chief city with game-cocks
under their arms to be pitted " against all comers," thus
fostering their love of fighting and gambling, even in their
pastimes. Frequently the owner of the victorious bird
carries away, as the prize, the vanquished hero of his
brother gamester.

While lying off their city, the Sooloos poisoned the
springs, from which the boats of both French and En-
glish ships were watering, by throwing into them large
quantities of the fruit of the Aran, or Gomuti Palm
(Borassus Gomutus}. After some tons had been brought
on board the ' Samarang,' many of the men complained
of a painful heat, and stinging sensation of the skin of
the hands, legs, and other parts exposed during the
duties of this day's service, and the officer commanding
the boats, having brought on board some of the fruit,
I pointed out the poisonous nature of the pulp, and the
water was accordingly started. Fortunately, no serious
harm was done, although some of the men who had

350 A USEFUL PALM.

partaken pretty freely of the poisoned water, complained of
excessive thirst, and burning of the throat. The Sooloos
employ the same fruit, and another plant, which grows
wild, and which they call " Tubli," for the purpose of
poisoning fish, in the same manner as the " Butong," or
Barringtonia speciosa, is used at Samboanga, and the
Tephrosia toxicaria in Borneo.

The Gomuti Palm, on account of the numerous uses
to which it is converted, deserves here a more extended
notice. This Palm, besides the names of Aran and Gomuti,
is also called sometimes Tuack, Gumatty, or Cabo-Negro.
Although the outer covering of the fruit is possessed of
such poisonous qualities, yet it is in reality one of the
most useful Palms indigenous to the Indian Islands. The
interior of the fruit is used as a sweetmeat ; the cut ex-
tremities of the peduncles of the inflorescence yield
" toddy," a cooling, grateful beverage, much patronized
by the natives of these thirsty regions ; from the toddy,
according to Crawford, "the only sugar used by the
native population " of Java is prepared ; the reticulum at
the base of the petioles of the leaves constitutes a kind
of Coir, a substance most admirably adapted to the
manufacture of cables, and extensively used for cordage
of every description. This substance, which is described
by Dalrymple in his 'Natural Curiosities of Sooloo,'
although an important product of Sooloo, is met with in
the finest state at Manado, in Celebes. It is generally
confounded with Coir, which is produced from the husk
of the Cocoa-nut, and is a substance known to few who
have not passed the strait of Malacca, and to fewer still
the manner in which it is obtained. Mr. Dalrymple,

THE GOMUTI. 351

moreover, informs us that the Cabo-Negro (Black Head)
resembles the Cocoa-nut tree in the figure of its leaves
and trunk ; but the former are of a dead dark green, in
comparison with the Cocoa-nut leaves. Like all other
Palms it shoots out its leaves at the top only, and as the
tree grows up, sheds the lowest. From the lower part,
or stalks, of these leaves (which, he observes, form the
bark of all Palms) "the gumatty shoots out on both
sides like black hair, being, in fact, nothing more than
the extension of the finest fibres, whereof the stalks and
ribs of the leaves are composed : these fibres bind the
dead leaves around the tree, so that the trunk has a very
odd appearance, being confined in a rough black coat."
These leaves being taken off the tree, are stripped of the
hair, and it is said the Gumatty must be beaten to free it
from dirt, and then spread in the sun ; two or three days
after which, the larger threads, being unfit for cordage,
are picked out. The Gumatty is black as jet; the hairs
extremely strong, and resemble the Coir, except that
they are longer and finer. The finest hairs make the best
cordage, which ought not to be too hard laid ; the small
hard twigs found mixed up with this material are em-
ployed as pens, and form the shafts of the sumpits, or
little poisoned arrows ; and underneath the reticulum is a
soft, silky material, used as tinder by the Chinese, and
applied as oakum in caulking the seams of ships ; while
from the interior of the trunk a kind of Sago is prepared.
St. Pierre observes, in speaking with admiration of the
Cocoa-nut tree, " Tout le monde sait qu' on y batit un
vaisseau de son bois, qu'on en fait les voiles avec les
feuilles, le mat avec son tronc, les cordages avec 1'etoupe,

352 CURIOUS ORIGIN OF PEARLS.

appellee caire, qui entoure son fruit, et qu' on le charge
ensuite avec ses Cocos ;" but, perhaps, all the world does
not know that the Gomuti Palin is nearly as valuable.

The people of Sooloo appear to be very fond of amassing
pearls and bezoar stones, and there is scarcely a man of
any pretensions among them, who will not, after having
been in your society a short while, produce mysteriously
from the folds of his sarong, two or more of these precious
concretions. The pearls are of different sizes and very
various in colour. Those from the Pinna, are black and
red ; from the Tridacna gigas, dull opaque white ; from
the Placuna placenta, of a lead-colour ; from the true
Pearl-Oyster (Meleagrina margaritifera), they are fre-
quently of a light semi-transparent straw-colour.

Dalrymple, in his account of the pearl-fishery of Sooloo,
gives an amusing statement regarding the Pinnotheres
which inhabit the pearl-shells. He terms them small
lobsters, and says there are two in each shell ; that their
beautiful transparent bodies have red spots, the female
white ; and that the latter has, under the tail and belly,
many eggs, which appeared under the microscope to be
" Teepye " shells (Pearl-Oysters). " There is from hence
room," he adds, " to conjecture that shell-fish, in general,
are generated by such lobsters; for the several species
common in the Sooloo Seas, as Manangcy, Teepye, Bato,
Capees, Beelong, Bineong, Seedap, &c., &c., I have been
assured always have two lobsters, though every species of
shell-fish has a distinct species of the lobster." To con-
firm his hypothesis, by an appeal to the philosophical
judgment of the natives, he adds " It was obvious to all
the Sooloos, who saw the egg of the Teepye lobster, that

SEA-SNAKES. 353

it was a proper Teepye ; and they were from thence con-
vinced, that these fish are generated in this manner."
The Sultan, on this occasion, mentioned a fable they have
amongst them. " A monkey sitting very pensive on the
shore, with his arms crossed, as they often do, being
asked what was the matter, replied; 'He was consi-
dering how the Mangancy* are produced.' '

I have detected a species of Pinnotheres, hitherto un-
described (P. orientalis, Adams and White,) that inhabits
the large Avicula so common in these seas.

The Sooloo Seas appear to be swarming with Sea-
snakes, perhaps on account of the calmness of the water,
and heat of the atmosphere here, which tend to produce
astonishing fecundity in the world of waters. Sea-snakes
always appear to prefer calms, swimming on the still sur-
face, in an undulating manner, never raising the head
much from the surface, or vaulting out of the water.
They dive with facility on the approach of danger, but
do not appear to be particularly timid. Their progression
is tolerably rapid. The Malays term them " Ular gerang."
The Pelamis bicolor is common all over the China and
Indian Seas. I have seen them in the Seas of Mindoro
and Sooloo, swimming by thousands on the top of the
water. They appear especially to delight in calms, and
are fond of eddies and tide-ways where the ripple collects
numerous fish and Medusae, which principally constitute
their prey. Their lungs resemble the air-bladders of
fishes more than the breathing organs of Reptilia, in
general being simple, elongated sacs, with blood-vessels
ramifying over their parietes, but having no cells. Their
* Mangancy, a kind of Pearl-oyster.

VOL. II. 2 A

354 GREAT SEA-SERPENT.

tongue is white and forked, differing in respect of its
colour from the tongue of other Snakes which is generally
black. The two forks are retractile within the root, and
are covered with two horny sheaths which, during the
casting of the slough, can be drawn off like the scales of
the eyes. In some genera, as HydropJds, there are true
poison fangs, but of smah1 size compared with the Colubri
and others ; others are innocuous as the Chersydrm, while
others (Pelamis) have two apertures at the base of the
two terminal palatine teeth, which may perhaps serve for
the exit of venom. Dr. Cantor says, in speaking of
marine serpents, (Annals and Mag. of Nat. Hist. vol. iii.
p. 138.) that "all the species are, without exception,
highly venomous." Schlegel, also includes the Sea-snakes
in his second family of Venomous Serpents (page 184 of
his Physiognomy of Serpents). Captain Cook in one of
his Voyages "saw abundance of Water-snakes, one of
which was coming up the side of our ship, and our men
beat it off. The Spaniards say there is no cure for such
as are bit by them ; and one of our blacks happened to
fall under that misfortune, and died, notwithstanding the
utmost care was taken by our Surgeons to recover him."
In the Sooloo Seas, I have often witnessed the pheno-
menon which first gave origin to the marvellous stories
of the great Sea-serpent, namely lines of rolling porpoises,
resembling a long string of buoys, oftentimes extending
seventy, eighty, or a hundred yards. These constitute
the so-named protuberances of the monster's back, keep
in close single file, progressing rapidly along the calm
surface of the water, by a succession of leaps, or demi-
vaults forwards, part only of their uncouth forms appearing
to the eye. At the same moment of time, I have seen

WATERSPOUTS. 355

beautifully-banded Water-snakes, of the thickness of a
man's leg, lying extended supinely along the glassy
surface, or diving and swimming gracefully, with slow
undulating, lateral movements of their vertically-com-
pressed bodies.

Waterspouts were very common phenomena, in these
beautiful seas, many dozens occurring all around us at the
same time. They were of small size, and varied consi-
derably in shape, some being like a trumpet, some li^e
a very wide-mouthed funnel, and some resembling the
curved form of the Cornucopia.

To give some idea of the splendour in the colouring of
tropical fishes, I here copy from my journal the colours
of a species of Balistes, taken by us at Sooloo. Upper half
of body pale brown, with two broad stripes of deeper
brown extending backwards towards the dorsal fin ; four
well-defined and narrow streaks descending posteriorly to
anal fin ; a bright spot of ultramarine blue round the
anus ; iris golden ; a dark greenish-brown, triangular
mark, margined with deep blue, reaching from beneath
the eye to the base of the pectoral fin ; over the eye and
summit of the head, a deep blue colour, with a lighter
streak running down before the eye to base of pectoral
fin ; a bright blue stripe above the upper lip, reaching
to the angle of the mouth ; from this point to a little
below the pectoral fin, a deep orange-yellow stripe ; all
below this, and on the belly, pure dead white ; a pale
oval mark on the tail ; all the fins light semi-transparent
brown. A Scorptena, of a fine brilliant scarlet, and with
very poisonous spines, is also very common at Sooloo A
Pegasus, of a light sea-green, mottled with darker green ;

2A2

356 SHELLS AND SHELL-FISH

an Ostrarion, of a light yellow green, with minute black
spots; a Platax of a pink-brown, spotted with black
towards the head, and the rest of the body covered with
opaque white spots ; and a remarkable sharp-nosed species
of RMnobatis, of a dark, rufous-brown colour, were also
procured during our sojourn at this place.

Among other interesting contributions to the Concho-
logical collection obtained at Sooloo, the dredge furnished
us with a large and handsome new species of Cardium
(C. Bechei, Adams and Reeve).* This, which was from
about forty fathoms water, and from a muddy bottom, is
of a lovely red-rose colour, with a semi-transparent, thin,
soft, velvety epidermis, the anterior and middle portions
of the shell smooth, but the posterior part, which is des-
titute of epidermis, covered with ribs of short compressed
spines. Several very large and beautiful specimens of
Conus thalassiarchm, and a large rare species of Stomatia,
together with many new and interesting Crustaceans,
likewise rewarded our research.

The animal of Conus aulicus has the proboscis beauti-
fully varied with red and white, and there is a square
and very minute operculum on the dorsal surface of the
hinder part of the foot. Its bite produces a venomed
wound, accompanied by acute pain, and making a small,
deep, triangular mark, which is succeeded by a watery
vesicle. At the little island of Meyo, one of the Moluc-
cas, near Ternate, Sir Edward Belcher was bitten by one
of these Cones, which suddenly exserted its proboscis as
he took it out of the water with his hand, and he com-
pares the sensation he experienced to that produced by the
* Ann. and Mag. Nat, Hist. vol. xix. p. 417.

CONTINUED. 357

burning of phosphorus under the skin. The instrument
which inflicted the wound, in this instance, I conceive
must have been the tongue, which in these mollusks, is
long, and armed with two ranges of sharp-pointed teeth.

The Cones become more numerous and more varied
in their colours, as we approach the equatorial seas, and
they form bright and beautiful ornaments to the shores
of tropical islands. They seem to prefer obscure holes
in the rocks, where they lead a predatory life, boring
into the substance of the shells of other mollusks, for
the purpose of sucking the juice from their bodies. They
crawl but slowly and usually with their tentacles extended
in a straight line before them. They are very timid, and
shrink within their shells quickly on the approach of
danger. Some affect deep water, and one was dredged
by us in the Sunda Straits, in thirty fathoms ; and
another, the Conus thalassiarchus, at Sooloo, in about
forty fathoms, as I have before mentioned.

To be convinced of the comparatively trifling importance
of the calcareous secretions, called shells, in the philo-
sophical study of the Mollusca, we have only to glance
at the different genera of the grand Gasteropodous divi-
sion, where we shall find the same organization scarcely
at all modified by the calcareous deposits, which here
assume every variety of form, from a simple, internal,
horny, dorsal plate, to a complicated, spiral, turbinated
shell. It is only by investigating the structure and pecu-
liarities of the soft parts, and studying the animals as
they are seen crawling about, unmolested in their native
element, that we can arrive at any distinct notion of their
Protean forms, and of their relations one with another.

358 HABITS OF FICULA

What can be more different than the shells of P/iorus,
Terebellum, Strombus, and Rostettaria ? and yet my ob-
servations of their animals have proved them to be inti-
mately connected, with the same habits and necessities,
and living in the same peculiar manner. Since the
labours of Cuvier, Blainville, Gray, and others, naturalists
have never doubted the importance of studying the
animals that construct the beautiful shells preserved in
our cabinets, and which serve the purpose of protecting
the more delicate viscera of the inmate, or for affording
a safe asylum for their eggs ; but the peculiar details of
the animals have not been sufficiently made use of as
generic and specific distinctions.

The employment of the dredge gave me an opportunity
of here first observing the animal of Ficula, which very
much resembles that of Dolmm in the large, thin, flattened
foot, rounded in front, with two sharp, angular, lateral
processes, and extended and acuminated behind ; in the
long, recurved siphon, and slender, tapering tentacula ; in
having a long extensile and retractile proboscis; in the posi-
tion of the organs of vision ; and in the general shape,
structure, and lightness of the shell ; while the singular
fact of the mantle covering the sides of the shell, would
seem to approximate it to Calpurnus, Ovulum, Marginella
and the Cowries.

Although exceedingly timid and sensitive, the Ficula
is a very lively animal, when observed in its native
waters, crawling along with considerable velocity, and,
owing probably to the lightness of its shell, able to
ascend with facility the sides of a glass vessel, which held
it captive. The proboscis is rarely exserted when the

CONTINUED. 359

animal is in motion ; but the long, tapering tentacles are
stretched out to their full extent, and the siphon is directed
more frequently forwards than over the back of the
animal. The animal of Ficula ficoides is light, marbled
violet, and the head and tentacles are white ; six white,
opaque spots are arranged round the upper surface of the
edge of the foot ; the rest of the body is light delicate
pink, with marbled markings of a darker pink.

In another species which I observed, and of which
I also made a drawing, (the Ficula Icevigata, Reeve) the
mantle is bright pink, mottled with white and deeper
pink, the under surface of the ventral disc being of a
dark-chocolate colour, with yellow, scattered spots ; the
head and neck are pink, and also coloured with yellow spots.

The Ficula shells, seen in cabinets, convey but a poor
idea of these handsome mollusks, observed in the living
state, crawling rapidly along, bearing their light, elegantly-
formed shells, easily and gracefully, with their siphon
erect, their foot expanded, like a broad flattened disc, and
their bodies ornamented with delicate colours, beautifully
marbled, and moving their long, flat heads, and peering
about with their large, bright black eyes, in a manner
which is surprising, when one considers the position
these animals occupy in the scale of creation, and that
but a very small share of intelligence is, in general, sup-
posed to be the lot of most mollusca.

At Sooloo, I first had the good fortune to discover
and describe the animal of Terebettum, and thus to solve
the enigma of the true position of this shell in the con-
chological system. Although it should be placed, most
probably, between Conns and Strombm, it has been

360 HABITS OF TEREBELLUM.

variously situated, in the different systems. Linnaeus
referred it to the Butta family, that " refuge for the des-
titute;" Cuvier placed it between Ovulum and Oliva;
Lamark, between Cypraa and Ancillaria ; Ferussac, be-
tween Cyprcea and Terebra; Blainville between Conus
and Oliva; Latreille, between Oliva and Ancillaria;
and Rang between Mitra and Ancillaria, The animal is
described by me in the ' Annals and Magazine of Nat.
Hist.' vol. xix. p. 411.

In its habits the animal of the Terebelhm is exceed-
ingly shy and timid, retracting its body into the shell on
the slightest alarm. It will remain stationary for a long
time, moving its tentacles about cautiously in every
direction, when, suddenly, it will roll over with its shell,
and continue again perfectly quiet. They appear to have
all the muscular energy, vivacity, and, doubtless, preda-
tory boldness possessed by the Strombi, which they also
resemble in their perfectly organized eyes, and quickness
of vision. Mr. Cuming informs me he has seen them
leap several inches from the ground, exactly as I have
seen the animal of Strombus gibberula. On one occasion, a
beautiful specimen was lost to the above-mentioned
enthusiastic collector, by the animal suddenly leaping into
the water, as he was holding and admiring it in the palm
of his hand. Those I kept in confinement died in a few
days, and appeared to be of a more delicate constitution
than the hardy Strombus. There appears to be a very trifling
muscular connexion between the animal and its shell.

From my observations of the animal of Terebellum,
I should imagine the spotted variety to be perfectly
distinct as a species. In this, which may be called

MALAY VILLAGE. 361

T. maculosum, the proboscis is of a whitish-brown colour,
reddish towards the tip ; the body is of an opaque pearly
white ; the mantle transparent ; the foot semi-pellucid
white ; the ocular peduncles are mottled with dark red ;
the iris is brown red, and the pupil black. The front of
the mantle, edging the anterior part of the shell, is
coloured with a black line, forming its margin.

In the common species, T. subulatum, the eye-peduncles
are punctulated with red-brown, as is likewise the upper
and under part of the fore-portion of the body. The body
is opaque pearly white, with three large, irregular-shaped
red-brown blotches on the fore part. The under-surface
of the foot is light brown, with a white cross-like marking
of a deeper brown Doubtless, when the animal of the
variety covered with zig-zag markings shall have been
discovered, it will also be found to be specifically distinct.

We landed one day in April on the little island of
Soolaree, in the Sooloo Archipelago, where the Mangrove
trees grow in the water along the shores, and strange
crabs, and fish of monstrous forms, live beneath their
branches. The interior of the island we found to be a
salt marsh, in one part forming a lagoon, on whose banks
was a pretty little Malay village, peopled by fishermen.
Emissaries were sent inviting us to visit their hamlet ;
and on our proceeding to the spot, we were received by
the chief, and some twenty other Malays, all armed with
the lance and kris. Having presented him with a trifle,
in the form of a handkerchief for the head, he very civilly
escorted us to our boats, and affectionately took his leave.
These men were probably pirates, and had our force been
smaller, their character might have been very different ;
but there is guile even in a savage ! and might with

362 BAS1LAN.

them is ever right. Many a true tale of the crews of
merchantmen, slaughtered in cold blood by these merci-
less freebooters, that constitute the curse of Malayan Asia,
might be mentioned in confirmation of this sad truth.

On the 2 1st of April, 1844, we touched at Basilan,
which we also again visited in March, 1845, and March,
1846, on which last occasion I had an opportunity of
catching a glimpse of some of the scenery of the island,
and thus it happened.

While lying off Passan, a new establishment of the
Spaniards on the island, I had occasion to visit the
Commandante, who was very ill of fever and dysentery,
and after doing him all the good in my power, I was
persuaded to remain and spend the day with the
Officers in their newly-erected wooden castle. After
partaking of a capital dinner, where wine and choice
liqueurs were not wanting, on my expressing a wish to
obtain some specimens of the Flying-Poxes, which are
very numerous in the island, a little expedition was im-
mediately planned, and, in a very short time, a strong
party of us started on foot, armed with fowling-pieces,
into the interior of the forest behind the fort ; and I
confess I was amused at the very motley group we
formed. One Spanish gentleman, very stout and with
enormous moustaches, wore a huge " Sombrero," and
carried a thick club-shaped stick ; another, a shrivelled
little man, with a sharp nose, was dressed in white, even
to his hat, which was made of thin pith, 'and covered with
white calico ; another carried two guns, and was dressed
like a sporting gentleman on the first of September ; while
another wore a loose blouse, and a wide-brimmed straw
hat.

NATIVES. 363

Having advanced a considerable distance into the wood,
and traversed some of the most romantic glades I had
seen, even in the tropics, without observing anything but a
wild pig, and a small species of civet cat, we came to the
banks of a small, deep, still, dark-coloured river, with
the lofty trees meeting over our heads, and crowded with
pigeons. Here, as if to compensate ourselves for our
disappointment in not meeting any Galeopitheci, we all
eagerly commenced firing at the poor doves, and the
result was the death of a considerable number, and among
them several Vinagoes, with splendid metallic-green
plumage. While engaged in this recreation, several
women and children, with two men, belonging to the
hostile parties on the other side of the island, passed
timidly by us, and, stepping into a canoe, paddled rapidly
out of sight. These poor people had come, at the risk
of their lives, with eggs and vegetables for the use of the
Spaniards, and I was informed that if their own people
were acquainted with the fact, they would all be " krissed."
A sharp look out was kept by all our party, for the
natives, stealing through the wood, often lie in ambush
for those that venture out of the fort, and shoot them;
any mode being justifiable in their eyes, in getting rid of
their European invaders. One of the Spanish soldiers
was shot in this manner two days before. So sudden
are the Malays of Basilan, and so secret in their move-
ments, that the Spaniards are constantly on the watch to
guard against surprise, and unexpected attacks. Although
very large in numbers, and very brave, the natives are
easily repulsed on account of their want of fire-arms, and
their desultory mode of warfare. The friendly Basilan

364 SPIDERS.

people I saw reposing in groups about the fort, appeared
to be a very fine, and even handsome race, both men
and women.

The ground in this part of the forest, was literally
over-run with a small black, agile, species of Lycosa,
many of which had a white, flattened, globose cocoon
affixed to the ends of their abdomens. It was most
amusing to watch the earnest solicitude with which these
jealous mothers protected the cradles of their little ones,
allowing themselves to fall into the hands of the enemy,
rather than be robbed of the silken nests that contained
their helpless progeny. All Spiders are gifted with the
same " storge," or maternal instinct, and resort to various
methods for the purpose of securing their cocoons. The
TJteridion, when a seizure of the precious burden is
threatened, tumbles, together with it, to the ground, and
remains motionless, guarding it with solicitous anxiety ;
and the Tliomisus covers the receptacle of its offspring
with its body, and when robbed of it, wanders about dis-
consolate. Did the minute size of these poor Spiders
admit of the same psycological dissertations, anecdotes as
interesting, no doubt, as those told of the she-bear, when
robbed of her cubs, or the violent emotions of the Lioness,
when disturbed in her maternal duties, by the hunters
in the jungle, might be recorded, proving how strong is the
love of offspring, even in animals the most insignificant.

While staying at Basilan, I had an opportunity of ob-
serving the animal of Ovulum volva, in a living state, and
shall shortly mention its habits. The Radius is slow and
languid in its movements, sliding along deliberately, and
is not more sensible to alarm than Cyprcea or Calpurnus.

WILD ANIMALS. 365

From the foot being rather narrow, and folded longitu-
dinally upon itself, this animal, no doubt, is in the habit
of crawling upon, and adhering to, the slender, round,
coral-branches, and fuci, in the manner of certain other
Ovula and many Doridida. Dredged in five fathoms
from a rocky coral bottom. One barren island rock, not
far from Basilan, was covered with vast numbers of Ostrcea
crista-galli, firmly attached by calcareous matter, to the
surface of the coral masses, which were pierced, moreover,
with Lithodomi, Petricola, and other boring Mollusks.
The sharpened appetites of ourselves and men, were plea-
santly appeased by knocking off^ the upper valves, and
devouring the coarse, though not unsavoury contents of
these dishes, spread by nature for our entertainment and
gratification.

Anchored off the eastern coast of Borneo, in the pro-
vince of Unsang, for the purpose of surveying, and taking
observations, I had an opportunity of examining many
new and interesting productions of that little-known
Island. On either side of the encampment on shore, was
a vast extent of untrodden forest, abounding with wild
animals of various descriptions. Tracks of enormous
apes appeared in the sands ; tiger-cats and lynxes were
seen roaming about in the shade of the matted jungle ;
and boars, of large dimensions, came rooting and grunting
in the immediate vicinity of the tents. An adjutant or
gigantic Crane (Ardea Mirabou}, four feet high, was shot,
and brought on board ; a huge Monitor Lizard (Hydro-
saurus giyanteus), five feet long, and spotted with dull
yellow, was also killed and converted into soup. The
Crocodile (Crocodilus biporcatus}, must occasionally attain

366 INSECTS.

to a very large size in Borneo, judging from an enormous
skull found whitening on the beach. The owner must
at least have been twenty-eight feet long.

Among the insects, I noticed, as being most common
in this province (Unsang) was a species of Monochama,
with the elytra elegantly marked with longitudinal, red
stripes, alternating with opaque-white stripes marked
across with deep black, triangular, spots, and brick-dust-
coloured thorax, with three longitudinal black bands.
Another truly splendid insect, was a Catacanthus, of the
subgenus Chalicoris, with a scarlet body, and head of
burnished green ; a thorax of a purple-green with a me-
tallic lustre, having a broad, bright scarlet, semi-lunar,
transverse band ; the long scutellum, half green and half
scarlet, and the elytra white, with green and scarlet marks.
Another remarkable form, belonged to Platyrkinidte, a
connecting link between the Curcnlionidce and the Longi-
corns. It was of a dull, dark, olive-brown, with a bronze-
coloured head and antennae, with alternate black and white
rings. A species of Mastax, allied to M. vitrea (West. Arc.
Ent. t. 22. f. 2.) but differing in the ends of the elytra
being incised, was also procured. This species I have
named M. Whitei, after that enthusiastic entomologist,
Mr. Adam White of the British Museum, to whom I am
indebted for the scientific names of many insects previ-
ously unknown to ine. It is of a dark brown colour, with
two transparent white spots near the ends of the elytra,
and wings of a light, semi-pellucid brown. A new species
of Scyanm, entirely of a black colour, with light brown,
semi-pellucid wings, and several species of Reduvius, a
genus which appears in Borneo, and I believe elsewhere,

CAPE RIVERS. 367

to assume every conceivable modification of montrous form.
One species had a yellow body, green thorax, and wings
nearly opaque; another had golden-brown wings, and a
shining coal-black body. Under the shade of the Casu-
arina-trees, and burrowing in the ground, was a hand-
some Gymnopleurus, a remarkable looking insect of a
black colour, and like all the insects of that family, pos-
sessed of enormous strength. To this may be added, a
species of Popilia, closely allied to the P. cyanea of Hope,
but most probably a new species ; of a bright polished-
steel blue, inclining to deep purple, viewed in certain
lights; and, in the same locality, under leaves on the
ground, was detected a handsome, polished black Passalus.
At Cape Rivers in the Straits of Macassar, were seen
the star-like tentacles of the Tubipora musica, of a pale
delicate white, striped with light blue, expanded in
large masses ; the red Pinnatula, lying dead upon the
beach, with the pellucid plates of the beautiful Velella
and fragile Porpita ; the elegant jointed Isis, throwing
its branches in every direction, among large beds of other
corals, and various madrepores strewing the margins of
the pools. The large and ugly " biche de mer " (Holo-
thuria tremula), lay extended on the sandy patches, and,
to every stone, the sea anemonies, with their brilliant
tentacles, were exploring the warm^ shallow waters for
their food. The dark and slug-like bodies of Parmopkori,
and the crawling forms of Stomatetta, were seen moving
and sliding among the coral beds, while scarce a stone
was turned, without observing Chitonetti crawling on the
under surface. In every part where solid rock was seen,
the bright, blue branchiae of Tridacnce were visible in

368 FOREST SCENERY.

their stony houses, while crabs, of every form, were found
concealed in corners, greedy, rapacious, and devouring.

There is some very fine forest scenery in Celebes. I have
wandered several times in the uninhabited parts of the
coasts for whole days, with no other company than my
own thoughts, and the sights and sounds of nature. I have
already endeavoured to picture the forests of Borneo :
those of Celebes are very similar. The trunks and
branches of the trees here, as elsewhere in the Tropics,
are covered with Bauhinia, and other huge climbing
plants, which suspend themselves, like monstrous serpents,
from the trees, twisting their folds sometimes so tight as
to strangle and eventually destroy the plants they em-
brace ; on every side you notice that fragrant

" parasites

Starr'd with ten thousand blossoms, flow around
The grey trunks;"

gigantic Lycopodiacece, or club mosses, are frequently
met with, rearing their elegant heads from among the
damp beds of decaying leaves ; the prostrate trunks are
covered with Opegrceplia, and other Lichenoid plants,
which spread their distempered-looking thatti over the
loose bark ; while on the shaded side, and often concealed
by the tree, minute and delicately formed Fungi of the
most extravagant forms, live their little hour, and are
succeeded by a crop equally as ephemeral. Bamboo
thickets are common in some parts, and the slender
branches, and light quivering leaves, produce those pecu-
liar changing shadows you often see in dense forests where
the sun partially shines through the foliage ; a fact which
did not escape the observant eye of the Bard of Avon ;

CONTINUED. 369

in 'Titus Andronicus,' he thus alludes to this pecu-
liarity : —

" The green leaves quiver with the cooling wind
And make a chequered shadow on the ground."

I have frequently seen the Bamboo, that magnificent
member of the grassy-tribe, waving aloft its feathery
sprays in groves, more than forty feet high. The ap-
pearance of the epiphytic vegetation, in these forests,
exactly resembles, in some spots, the vineyards full of
trees so eloquently mentioned by Dickens : — " The wild
festoons ; the elegant wreaths, and crowns, and garlands
of all shapes ; the fairy nets flung over great trees, and
making them prisoners in sport ; the tumbled heaps and
mounds of exquisite shapes upon the ground ; how rich
and beautiful they are ! And every now and then, a
long, long line of trees will be all bound and garlanded
together, as if they had taken hold of one another, and
were coming dancing down the field !"*

What must ever strike a European observer in tro-
pical forests, is the singular want of any of those autumnal
signs of partial decay, or vernal indications of gradual
development, seen in climes more temperate. There are
no mellow tints, or boughs covered with young green
buds ; no red withered leaves falling from the trees ; but
always renovation and dissolution, always the same
quantity of dead rotting leaves, and the same dense mass
of dark green foliage, wherever the woods are entered,
whether in the dry or rainy season. In many parts of
these forests I noticed a vast number of Fungi, those
scavengers of the vegetable kingdom, which insignificant,

* Pictures from Italy, p. 90.
VOL. II. 2 B

370 COMPARISONS.

and unpretending, spring up on every fallen tree, and,
disguised under a thousand grotesque forms, prey upon,
and consume the decayed and putrefying wood. But
though these tall trees, shorn of all their pride and beauty,
as the poet Shelley says, in his poem of ' Queen Mab,'
in a beautiful simile : —

" Lie level with the earth to moulder there,
They fertilize the land they long deformed ;
Till from the breathing lawn a forest springs
Of youth, integrity, and loveliness,
Like that which gave it life, to spring and die."

Whatever of grand or beautiful may be seen in the
forests of the torrid zone, yet the observer of nature, if
he be of European origin, will always sigh in vain for
certain simple signs of landscape scenery, and woodland
peculiarities once familiar to him in other lands. Where
will he find in Borneo or Celebes, commons covered with
purple blooming Heather, or brown dusky glens orna-
mented with the drooping bells of the Fox -glove, or snug
little coppices where the Wild Rose and the Hawthorn
mingle with the graceful Ash and silver-barked Birch?
Sombre, dense, and towering masses of foliage, trees
beyond trees in never ending avenues ; these take the
place of more lively rural scenes. And among the
feathered race, what birds, however gaudy their plumage,
or vivacious their movements, can vie with pretty Cock-
robin, the saucy Jay, or the pert chattering Magpie with
its long black tail ? Can the harsh scream of the Parrot
compare with the sweet melody of our summer songsters,
their plaintive monotony, or shrill pipings, or even with
the clamorous cawings of the Rooks that build their nests
on the tall Elm trees ?

INSECT-ADAPTATIONS. 371

What can be more delightful, than to enter a forest
abounding in examples, for the purpose of satisfying
your mind whether there is any truth in the statement
that the tongues and jaws of Lepidopterous insects, or
Butterflies, are adapted in length to the corollas of
the flowers they suck; so that a tubular blossom is
rifled by an elongated proboscis, and a salver-shaped
corolla by a short obtuse muzzle. In the Silk- worm
Moths, which do not require food in the Imago state,
the mouth is not developed ; but in the Humming-bird
Hawk-moth, which hovers about tubular flowers, and
greedily extracts the nectar, the tongue is of enormous
length.

The beautiful adaptation of insects, at large, to the
flowers on which they feed, is well shown by St. Pierre,
in the Bee. He observes : — " Nous voyons avec plaisir
les relations de la trompe d 'une abeille avec les nectaires
des fleurs ; celles de ses cuisses creusees en cuillers et
herissees de poils, avec les poussieres des etamines qu 'elle
y entasse ; celle de ses quatre ailes, avec le butin dont
elle est chargee ; enfin 1 'usage du long aiguillon qu 'elle
.en a reyu pour la defense de son bien."*

During a stroll one day into the forest of Celebes,

I was very much struck with the ingenuity of a large

species of Bee, which frequented, in great numbers, a tree

loaded with monopetalous corollas, furnished with a very

long tube. The slender trunk of the Bee was, doubtless,

too short to reach the honied store concealed in the

nectary at the bottom, and therefore its "long, narrow

pump," as Paley terms the promuscis of Hymenopterous

* Etudes de la Nature.

•2 u 2

372 ANECDOTE OF A BEE.

insects, was of no avail ; our Bee, nothing daunted, sawed
through the base of the corolla, where it joins the calyx,
with its fore legs, and then shoving it to the ground with
its head, sucked up the honey " ad libitum." Speaking of
the Bee, Paley observes, " The harmless plunderer rifles
the sweets, but leaves the flower uninjured ;" this wicked
insect, however, not only robs the blossom of its nectar,
but leaves ruin behind. Many years ago, I remember
noticing that the Humble-Bee of England, as he

" Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets,"

employs frequently his feet for the same purpose, in cases
where the tube of the corolla is of greater length than
usual ; as, for example in the Jasmine.

In the forests of Celebes, I procured, also among many
other insects, two Elaters, one with yellowish-brown
elytra, and the other with the wing-cases covered with
mouse-coloured hair ; a Languria, with a green head, an
orange thorax, and burnished green elytra, marked with
punctulated, longitudinal striae ; a Lucanus, of a tawny
yellow colour, with a reddish-brown head, and three
black marks on the thorax, and the elytra margined with
black; an Anthribidous of a greenish-ash colour, with,
dull, opaque, dark, black markings ; an Elater of the
genus Calais, Laporte, Alans, Eschsch; most probably
a new species, with the head and body covered with a
hoary pubescence, and on the thorax, a large, shining,
longitudinal, oval, black spot, and four smaller round
spots arranged about it, and the elytra marbled and
mottled with black ; a Cicindela, very near C. Chinensis,
of a dull sap green, and yellow marks on the elytra ; a
remarkable species of Apocyrtus, of an ash colour, covered

BEETLES. 373

with minute black spots ; a Micraspis, one of the Cocci-
nellidfB, with bright orange elytra, margined at their
inner edges, with black, and having a large, curved,
linear, black mark in the centre of each. To these may
be added a Galeruca, of a pale straw colour, with black
spots on the thorax ; a Langmia, with a reddish-brown
head, and dark metallic green, brightly polished elytra,
which alights on the blades of the Zea mays, and leaves
of other plants, in open sunny places, and is very active
on the wing ; a curious genus of Anthribidte, entirely
covered, when alive, with a white mealy powder, which,
when rubbed off, leaves the elytra of a dark gray, and
shows longitudinal rows of alveoli, or pits ; an Agrilus,
with a brilliant green head, and dark bronzed, black
elytra, and a body of the most vivid blue, which flies
rapidly, and alights to sun itself on leaves ; an Anthraxia
of a burnished emerald green, which is very active in its
motions, alighting on the leaves and stalks of plants in
the sunny glades of the forest. Besides these, a Brentus
of a red chesnut brown, and highly polished body struck
me as being a most remarkable form among the Coleop-
tera, which abound in these woods, so fecund in these
" resuscitated worms," as Cowper terms insects in their
perfect state.

Near Manado, there is a woody tract, not far from the
river that runs through the town, which abounds in
Gelasimi of the most beautiful colours. I have described
and tigured one species, allied to G. bcllator (White), of
a green colour, with black markings ; another, black, with
two bright ultramarine spots in the centre of the carapace;
and another grey, marbled with white, with an enormous
light yellow chela. These cover the ground by thousands,

374 LAND-CRABS.

stalking about and holding up their single huge claws in
a most ridiculous manner. Notwithstanding, they ap-
pear to be overburdened with this unwieldly member,
they are by no means easy to capture; but on the
slightest attempt upon their liberty they run quickly to
the mouth of their burrows for protection, where they
will boldly wait and see if the enemy makes any further
advances; and, if he does, they retreat quickly backwards,
holding out their pincer as a weapon of defence. In the
pools of fresh water, and under damp stones, a dark
olive-green Sesarma, with bright yellow blotches, may be
seen concealed ; but on the slightest attempt to take the
stranger captive, he is off with the greatest velocity,
darting under the leaves, and scrambling over sticks,
until he finds security either in a hole of the ground, or
under the mud of the pools ; while on the coast, the
observer cannot fail to be delighted and amused with the
elegant and agile Thelphma grapsoides, which, by its
beauty and brilliancy, gives life and animation to the
coral flats, left dry by the receding tide.

Another Crab, which appears to be rather common
also, among the Philippines, is the Chasmagnatlms con-
veams (De Haan). It lives in the firm black mud of
Manila Bay, and in other parts of Luzon, in company
with the Lingula anatina and Area inequivalvis. Like
the Xenophthalmus pinnotheroides (White), it doubtless
forms oblique, cylindrical holes in the surface of the
mud, somewhat in the manner of the Macrophthalmi, and
Scopimera globosa.

On the 23rd we arrived at the little island of Meyo,
which appears to be not very long recovered from a state
of volcanic sterility, bearing scarcely any traces of vege-

ZOOLOGY OF MEYO. 375

tation on its blackened, scoriaceous surface. The light
porous rock, that composes the principal part of the
island, is raised in heaps of jagged points and pinnacles,
and has, altogether a most unpromising appearance to the
naturalist ; and yet, even on such a barren spot as this,
nature holds out some objects for our entertainment.

As the boat approached the abrupt and barren shore,
a young Whale bared its back, and spouted close along-
side of us ; and a little nearer the island, two Turtles, of
the right sort, came floating by, with lazy, flapping fins,
and narrowly escaped being turned into soup by the boat's
crew. Close in shore, myriads of banded Ch&todons and
party-coloured Scari glided through the calm water
among the rocks ; and, as we landed, a large black
Lizard, a species of Hydrosaurm, upwards of four feet
long, scaled the rocks immediately above us. On the
right, heavy rollers came tumbling in from seaward,
between huge perpendicular rocks, rushing impetuously
through a wide, time-worn chasm, and receding as violently
as they entered, forming a perfect "Maelstrom," and
looking like the interior of some enormous caldron, in
a state of ebullition. In another part, the sea recedes,
and leaves exposed a long, flat, stony beach, with shallow
pools, dug in the rock, abounding with small fish and
molluscous animals of various descriptions. The large
and showy Cyprcea tigris was here seen crawling about
by hundreds, generally in the shade of the steep banks of
the ponds, or hiding away in crevices. Troc/ti and Tur-
bines, Cones, and Turbinellce were equally numerous, and
offered, as may be readily supposed, a rich treat to the
conchologist, who walking among them as they gemmed

376 NATIVES OF THE MOLUCCAS

the rocks, like so many animated flowers, gathered the
prettiest and most brilliant, leaving the others to pursue
their nearly vegetable lives unmolested.

Among the fish procured by me in the pools left by
the tide on the shores of this little island, was a Scorpcena
of a dark, mottled brown, with darker grey-brown spots,
and a light brown belly ; a Chatodon, of a blue silvery
grey, darker, and with a greenish tinge towards the back,
and a bright silvery belly ; a Blennius, of a dark olive green,
rufous towards the head, and greyish towards the back, and
both body and fins covered with vivid, linear, ultramarine
spots and markings ; and a species of Hippm, with a
blue-grey body, darker towards the dorsal region, and
with broad oblique bands of black and white on the tail.

Our very brief sojourn among the Spice Islands did
not enable us to gather much information concerning the
inhabitants of that group; but from those I had an
opportunity of observing at Ternate and Gilolo, I should
say that they are of a darker brown than the Malays,
with larger heads, longer upper lips, smaller and more
sunken eyes, and broader and flatter noses ; but these
observations may not be generally characteristic among
the entire population, but apply to individuals only.
They are called Malukus of which the term Moluccas
appears to be only a corruption. There were many of
this race of men among the Illanons on board the fleet of
prahus that attacked the Samarang's barge and gig off
the Island of Gilolo, as was proved by the capture of
their shields which are narrow, bent in the form of an
arc, made of hard black wood, inlaid with bits of shell
and mother of pearl, and provided with a single handle,

CONTINUED. 377

placed in the centre, by which it is held; while the Illanon
shield is very large and wide, and of an entirely different
construction. The Malukus speak the Tarnata, the lan-
guage of the Moluccas, the name of which is evidently
derived from Ternate. Once free and formidable as
pirates, these natives in times past must have offered a
curious example of a paradise peopled by devils ; of a
group of islands probably the most delicious in the
world, with a soil the most fecund, abounding in spices
and other commodities of enormous commercial value ;
enjoying a climate at once healthful and undisturbed by
hurricanes or violent alternations of temperature ; but,
alas ! inhabited by a set of fierce, vindictive, blood-thirsty
savages, whose only delight was in rapine and murder.
They are now fortunately almost deprived of the power
to injure, are reduced to a state of servile vassalage, and
even their Rajahs are but regal slaves, whose pomp and
state are maintained by the dollars of the Dutch.

Mr. Brooke in his Journal gives a short account of the
war-dance of the Malukus, which he witnessed at Sarawak.
He observes that it is of a more gentle nature ^than that
of the Illafions of Mindanao, and that instead of the
sword or " kempilan," they prefer the spear, advancing
with it stealthily, casting it, and then retreating with the
sword and shield. The dancers mad with rage and
opium, whom we observed stamping, turning, and yelling
on the fighting-deck of the pirate prahus, during our
engagement, were most probably Illation- " Datus," or
" free men," commanding the expedition. Mr. Brooke
states that the sword of the Malukus of Gilolo is similar
to that of the Moskokos of Boni Bay, in Celebes.

378 SPIDERS

At the Island of Ternate, I made a capture of a large
and splendid undescribed species of Nephila, which spins
a very wide, strong web among the bamboos. The body
is liver-coloured, with a silver horse-shoe mark ; the thorax
is covered with a downy, hoary pubescence ; the shanks
of the tibiae of the two first pairs of legs, have a broad
yellowish- white band ; the other legs are black. Besides
this, I have drawings of numbers of species not yet des-
cribed, as I always took an interest in these remarkable
insects. Spiders are among the most artful of living
creatures; their whole life consists of one unvaried course
of craft and stratagem ; whether they sneak about on the
surface of leaves, as green as their own emerald bodies,
and surprise the poor flies that venture to approach
within the range of their fatal spring; whether they
gloomily lurk in dusky holes, or under the shade of dingy
tents, and spring upon unwary insects that chance to
pass their door; whether they lie supine in the broad
daylight, motionless, in their wide-spread treacherous
toils, and having seen their victim fairly entangled, wrap
him up in a winding-sheet of their own manufacture ; or
whether, simulating the surface of the ground on which
they live, they course their prey with untiring assiduity,
and, having run it down, suck its blood with tiger-like
ferocity. In the Island of Panagatan, I made a capture
of another species of Nephila, which I also consider as
undescribed. The head is blackish ; thorax silvery, with
black spots, and covered with a downy pubescence ; legs
chesnut-red, with the last joints black. The body is of a
light emerald green, with numerous bright yellow spots.
The under-surface is dull black. It forms a large, strong,

CONTINUED. 379

geometrical web, spreading from bush to bush, in the
centre of which it remains motionless, with legs stretched
out, and the head downwards. In a beautiful wood
behind Calderas, in Mindanao, I observed a dingy
little species of Spider, of the genus Clubiona, concealing
itself in very snug retreats, formed out of a dead leaf,
rolled round in the shape of a cylinder, lined with a soft
silken tissue, and closed at one end by means of a strong,
woven felt door. When hunted, it was amusing to see
the frightened little creatures run for protection into their
tiny castles, where they would doubtless be safe from the
attacks of birds, owing to the leaves not being distin-
guishable from others that strew the ground.

380

CHAPTER VI.

SINGAPORE AND BORNEO.

Singapore — The Sensitive Plant — The Nutmeg Tree — Gutta Percha —
Trees yielding Caoutchouc — Jatropha Manihot — Gambier — Useful
Plants — Lizards and other Animals — An Opium-smoker — Effects
of Opium on the brain — Royal Children — Curious mode of catching
Snakes — The Sun-birds — A Tree Slug — Cerithia — Dragon-flies —
Nondescript Spider — Remarkable Caterpillar — The Horse-shoe
Crab — A Land Lobster — Borneo — Excursion up the Linga —
Scenery — Insects — The Long-nosed Monkey — Village of Bunting
— The Balows — Dried Human Heads — Diseases — Excursion to
Tungong — Native Boar-hunt — Singular Fish — Crabs and Shells
— Land-Crabs — Habits of Crustaceans.

ON the 28th of June, 1844, we were again at Singapore,
or, as the Malays term it, Singhapura, where we remained
sufficiently long for us to examine some of the numerous
objects of interest peculiar to this important little island.
Rambles, in any direction, always well repay the naturalist;
and a walk, even in the immediate vicinity of the town,
is very agreeable. In some parts you will find the ground
covered with the Sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), and,
as you walk along, you leave a quivering track behind
you, caused by the shrinking of a thousand leaflets,
making you almost believe, with Darwin and Dutrochet,

THE NUTMEG TREE. 381

that plants indeed have feeling ; and tempting you to ex-
claim with the poet Wordsworth,

" It is my faith that every flower
Enjoys the air it breathes."

The Nutmeg tree (Myristica qfficinalis, Linn.) appears
to thrive equally as well in this island as at Pulo Penang;
and everywhere around you, if you wander a little to
the back of the town, you will perceive plantations of
these valuable trees, which, disposed in clumps, have a
very pretty appearance, particularly when the large green
fleshy pear-shaped fruits have burst, and the crimson
aril, or mace, shows ruddy through the fissure in the
rind. The bark abounds in a yellow juice; the long
shining oval leaves are powerfully aromatic when bruised;
and the inflorescence consists of axillary racemes of
small green flowers, the males having thick, cup-shaped
calices, and the filaments united together, and the
females possessing a solitary pistil, with a very short
style. The oval seeds, or nutmegs, are stripped, like ripe
walnuts, of their fleshy valves ; the aril or mace is care-
fully removed, and spread on mats to dry ; and the nuts,
with their hard oval shells, are placed in lofts, under
which fires are kept burning; but are not steeped in lime-
water for the purpose of protecting them from insects, as
is done in some countries. A few Clove trees (Caryo-
phyttus aromaticus, Linn.) seem to thrive tolerably well,
but they have not been very extensively introduced. In
an excursion into the woods of the interior, I had an
opportunity of observing the tree which yields the material
called Gutta Percha, although properly speaking, the first
word should be written " Gatah," which is the Malay

382 GUTTA PERCH A.

name for any gummy exudation, and is likewise applied
by them to' the Dammar and Gambier. The tree (Ico-
sandra gutta perchd) belongs to the Natural Order
Sapotacea, and has lately been described by Sir W. J.
Hooker. It is a large, high tree, with a dense crown of
rather small dark green leaves, and a round smooth
trunk. On incising the bark with a chopping-knife, a
quantity of rather thin white milky fluid exudes, which
gradually hardens on coming in contact with the air, in
which state it is the Gutta Percha of commerce. A West
Indian tree belonging to the same tribe, Achras Sapota,
abounds in a thick white tenacious milk, which might
possibly be applied to similar purposes ; and another Sapo-
taceous plant, the Bosnia longifolia, also yields a milky
sap, which is used on the continent of India in rheumatic
affections. The sap of Icosandra is not viscid and tena-
cious like that of the Ficus elastica, which is common in
Borneo, and of the other trees which yield a similar sub-
stance, as the Urceola elastica, which grows at Penan g,
and affords an excellent kind of caoutchouc, and that
other climbing plant, Willowgkbeia edulis, which is found
in the same island, but produces a very indifferent sort.
The advantage the Gutta Percha seems to have over the
other descriptions of caoutchouc, appears to consist in its
great tenacity, and in its retaining its form and solidity,
even in the tropics ; but on the other hand, it wants
elasticity. It is easily moulded into any form, by
steeping it in hot water, and forms very good catheters,
bougies, soles of shoes, riding- whips, gas pipes, ornaments
for picture-frames, &c. Several other plants yield sap
with similar useful properties, as the Hevea Guianensis,

TREES YIELDING CAOUTCHOUC. 383

which produces the Dernerara and Surinam caoutchouc,
and the Bastard Manchineel tree (Cameraria latifolid),
which is common in Cuba, and other West Indian
Islands. In the plantations about Singapore you will
see the Jatropha Manihot, with its white, brittle, warty
stems, and large, deeply-divided, heart-shaped leaves ; a
plant which yields, at the same time, a dangerously
poisonous juice, and a wholesome fecula, which, in South
America, forms an important article of diet, under the
name of Cassava ; the useful Gomuti Palm, and graceful
Plantain, the elegant, feathery Bamboo, the Betel, and
the climbing Yam, mingled with Papayas, Citron, and
Lime trees, and various useful Scitamineous plants, as the
Turmeric and the Ginger, may be also mentioned ; nor
must that very important Cinchonaceous plant, the
Uncaria Gambir, which yields the substance named Terra
Japonica, a kind of Catechu, be omitted ; the extract
being most extensively employed by the Malays, mixed
with Betel leaf, Areca nut, and Lime, as a masticatory.
At Singapore, the Malay fishermen make a very strong
cordage out of the leaves of the Pandanus laems ; and
here, as elsewhere, among the Eastern Islands, the leaves
of the Nipa fruticans are universally used for thatching
their primitive and fragile dwellings. The island, more-
over, abounds in Pine Apples of several varieties, the
common sort, in my opinion, being the best flavoured ;
the long, red, conical ones being the next in esteem ; and
those with variegated leaves being the worst of all.

Among the dry, withered leaves that strew the ground,
hundreds of large, brown, shining Lizards rush about
with the greatest velocity, reminding the timid of the

384 AN OPIUM-SMOKER.

rustling of serpents beneath their feet ; and, in the trees,
the flying Squirrel (Pteromys Petauristd) or, by a rarer
chance, the beautiful Galeopitkecus variegatus may be
seen towards the evening, besides the pretty little active
Tupaia Tana, and Squirrels and Monkeys of one or two
descriptions. Many rare animals may occasionally be
observed confined in the menagerie of the Governor, and
other places ; I have seen the black variety of the Leopard,
the Orang-Utan, and Wou-Wou, the Argus Pheasant,
Black Cockatoo, and several large Pythons, exhibited in
this manner ; the Dugong has been caught off the island,
and I have seen the Sword-fish in the boats of the fisher-
men, who also bring off for sale numbers of ' Neptune's
Cups,5 a species of Alcyonum, and vast quantities of Corals
and shells ; among the latter, Aspergilla, Fistulance, Car-
dissae, Lithodomi, and Gastrocliante are very numerous.

In a certain large Caravansary, belonging to the
Malay village near Singapore, a place where Buffaloes
and Goats occupy the centre, and where pallets are
arranged around for its human occupants, I had a good
opportunity of observing the effects of Opium on the
physical aspect of the Malay. I was particularly struck
with one old confirmed Opium-smoker, with whom I
enjoyed a " hubble-bubble." He was a feeble worn-out
old man, with an unearthly brilliancy in his eye. His
body was bent forwards, and greatly emaciated ; his face
was shrunken, wan, and haggard ; his long skinny arm,
wasted fingers, and sharp-pointed nails, resembled more
the claw of some rapacious bird, than the hand of a lord
of creation ; his head was nodding and tremulous, his
skin wrinkled and yellow, and his teeth were a few de-

EFFECTS OF OPIUM. 385

cayed, pointed, and black-stained fangs. As I approached
him he raised his body from the mat on which he was
reposing, and filling an antiquated pipe with tobacco,
courteously presented it for my acceptance. There was
something interesting, and, at the same time, melancholy,
in the physique of this old man, who, now in rags, ap-
peared from the silver ornaments he wore, and by his
embroidered jacket, to have been formerly a person of
some consideration ; but the fascinating influence of the
deadly drug had fastened on him, and a pallet in a Cara-
vansary was the reward of self-indulgence. In my expe-
rience of Opium, which has not, however, been very
extensive, I cannot say I found as much pleasure as
De Quincy, the " English Opium Eater," in his ' Con-
fessions,' would lead us to believe fell to his lot. After
three or four Chinese Opium-pipes, I found my brain
very much unsettled, and teeming with thoughts, ill-
arranged, and pursuing each other in wanton dreamy
play, without order or connexion ; the circulating system
being, at the same time, much excited, the frame tremu-
lous, the eye-balls fixed, and a peculiar and agreeable
thrilling sensation extending along the nerves. The same
succession of image crowding upon image, and thoughts
revelling in strange disorder, continues for some time,
during which a person appears to be in the condition of
the madman alluded to by Dryden, in his play of the
' Spanish Friar :' —

" He raves, his words are loose
As heaps of sand, and scattering wide from sense :
So high he's mounted on his airy throne,
That now the wind has got into his head,
And turned his brains to frenzy."

VOL. II. 2 C

386 THE RAJAH'S CHILDREN.

Unutterable melancholy feelings succeed to this some-
what pleasurable period of excitement, but a soft languor
steals shortly across the senses, and the half-poisoned
individual falls asleep. The next day there is great nausea
and sickness of stomach, headache, and tormenting
thirst, which makes you curse Opium, and exclaim with
Shakespeare's King John : —

" And none of you will bid the winter come
To thrust his icy fingers in my maw :
Nor let my kingdom's rivers take their course
Thro' my burnt bosom ; nor intreat the North
To make his bleak winds kiss my parched lips,
And comfort me with cold."

At the residence of the Ex-Rajah of Singapore, I was
introduced to a young Prince and Princess, children, as
as I was informed, of the Rajah, and likewise to their
mother. These scions of departed royalty were perfectly
naked, and adorned with silver ornaments; the boy
wearing an amulet about his neck, and rings on his arms
and legs ; and the girl having an ornamented silver heart-
shaped fig-leaf depending in front, and attached by a
silver chain around the hips. They were both very
pretty children, and good-tempered ; but I observed that
young as he was, perhaps not more than five years old,
this small brown prince had commenced the habit of
chewing the betel-nut and sirih leaf; for his lips and teeth
were already stained with the universal masticatory.

In an excursion with Sir Edward Belcher and Dr. Oxley
into the interior of the island, for the purpose of collecting
some of the numerous and beautiful epiphytic Orchids
that abound in the forest, I noticed a very novel and

METHOD OF CATCHING SNAKES. 387

ingenious method of capturing snakes. A small, but
highly-venomous reptile of this description, of a bright
green colour, having a row of white spots along the
sides, and with the triangular head, and enormous fangs,
which characterize the genus Trigano cephalm, was de-
tected by Sir Edward peeping from among the tangled
leaves of a bunch of Epidendra, which he was about to
gather. On pointing it out to our Malay attendants,
one of them immediately procured a long tapering twig,
and formed a running noose out of a fine grass, which
being fashioned according to his satisfaction, he passed
it over the extended head of the reptile, drew the knot
tight, and thus secured the prize, which I immediately
seized between the finger and thumb, and divided the
spinal cord with the point of a pen-knife ; for the natives,
if they could have had their way, would have crushed the
head, and so ruined the specimen,

At Singapore I first had the pleasure of observing
those tiny paragons of the East, the Sun-birds (Cinnyris),
which, like their brilliant representatives of the West, are
etherial, gay, and sprightly in their motions, flitting
briskly from flower to flower, and assuming a thousand
lively and agreeable attitudes. As the sunbeams glitter
on their bodies, they sparkle like so many precious
stones, and exhibit, as they turn, a variety of bright and
iridescent hues, "like atoms of the rainbow fluttering
round," as a poet has described them. As they hover
round the honey-laden blossoms, they vibrate rapidly
their tiny pinions, producing in the air, a slight whirring
sound, but not so loud as the humming noise produced

2c 2

388 THE SUN-BIRDS.

by the wings of the Trochilidee. Occasionally, I have
seen them clinging by their feet and tail, busily engaged
in rifling, of their insects and nectar, the blossoms of the
trees ; in the stomachs of many which I examined, were
the partially-digested remains of dipterous, coleopterous,
and tetrapterous insects. These lovely and active little
ornaments of the feathered tribe serve, by the rapidity of
their movements, and the brilliancy of their colours,
materially to enliven the monotony of a noon-day walk.
I well remember a certain dark-leaved tree with scarlet,
tubular flowers, that especially courted the attention of
the Sun-birds, and around its blossoms they continually
darted with eager and vivacious movements. In the
course of an hour's watching, I have counted more than
a dozen different species of Cinnyris, Nectarinea, and
Certhia, coming and going to and from this honied
banquet. The Sun-birds seemed particularly delighted,
clinging to the slender twigs, and coquetting with the
flowers, thrusting in their slender beaks, and probing with
their brush-like tongues, for insects and nectar, hanging
suspended by their feet, throwing back their little glossy
heads, chasing each other on giddy wing, and flirting and
twittering, the gayest of the gay. Some were emerald
green, some vivid violet, and others yellow with a
crimson wing. In the vicinity of this tree, which was in
the town, were numbers of Sparrows, in their every-day
dress, apparently engaged in disdainfully contemplating
these gaudy-coloured birds of pleasure. Darwin's capital
description of the Humming-bird applies also to the
Cinnyrides : —

A TREE-SLUG. 380

" So where the Humming-bird in Chili's bowers,
On murmuring pinions, robs the pendent flowers ;
Seeks where fine pores their dulcet balm distil,
And sucks the treasure with proboscis-bill."*

Among molluscous animals, the Onckidium of Singa-
pore offers a curious instance of what may be termed an
Arboreal Slug. It is a limaciform animal, which is found
crawling among the foliage of the trees in the woods,
and appearing more particularly after heavy showers.
During the heat of the day it collapses its broad, flattened
body, and retires under the shade of large leaves, where
it remains apparently in a half-torpid condition. It
leaves no slimy trail behind, when it crawls, as the
Limax and Snail do. It is of a chesnut-brown colour,
minutely tuberculated, with numerous small, dark, scat-
tered spots, and with the raised middle line of a pale
brown ; the eyes are terminal on the long superior pair
of tentacles.

Another remarkable molluscous form is the Ccrithium
truncatum, which is found generally in brackish water
in Mangrove swamps, and the mouths of rivers. Some
times it crawls on the stones and leaves in the neigh-
bourhood, and sometimes it is found suspended by glu-
tinous threads to the boughs of trees, and from the roots
of the Mangroves. The animal of Megalamastoma sus-
pensum has been found in the West Indies, by the Rev.
Lansdowne Guilding, hanging from trees in the same
manner; and Mr. Gray states that he has found the Rissoa
similarly suspended. There is another very handsome
species, closely allied to the preceding, which I have fre-
quently found crawling in a slow and languid manner on

* Botanic Garden.

390 DRAGON-FLIES.

the leaves of the Pontedera, and of Calami and Sedges,
found among the fluviatile marshes, and on the low
banks of rivers in several parts of Borneo, even many
miles in the interior, where the water is perfectly fresh.
In this species, the eyes are likewise terminal ; the pro-
boscis is elegantly marked with crimson and yellow ;
there is a vivid scarlet edge extending round the lower
part of the body, where it joins the foot ; the under sur-
face of which latter part is of a dark brown. They live,
in general, quite out of the water, and have a very pretty
appearance when seen crawling among the leaves.

In the insect world nothing surprised me more than
the large number of Libelulte, and analogous forms of
Neuroptera. Dragon-flies, however, are not only nu-
merous here, but in China, and among all the islands of
the Eastern seas. On every barren bank, on every
flowery plain, over oozy bogs and stagnant pools, may
be seen all day long, flitting on their untiring wings of
gauze, these beautiful creatures, or as Shakespeare would
term them : —

" Those gay creatures of the element,
That in the colours of the rainbow live,
And play i' the plighted clouds."

Volatile and erratic, their chief resort is about some dull,
sequestered pool, where rank weeds luxuriate, and where,
springing from the mud and slime, the air teems with
living forms. These are the food of the Dragon-fly, and
in their pursuit and capture consist his pastime and
delight. I have frequently regarded with astonishment
the dexterity of the little Dyak boys, who catch these
sprightly Neuroptera by means of a noose formed of

CURIOUS INSECTS. 391

human hair, and fastened to the end of a long, slender
stick. They will lassoo adroitly their tiny game, and
bring them to you with the hair neatly secured around
the insect's neck, which does not prevent it from flut-
tering about, to the great delight of its captor ; for boys
are cruel, even in a state of nature.

In the woods of Singapore I made captive a very large
and handsome species of Nephila, which I do not find
described. The thorax is covered with a rich golden
pubescence ; the terminal half of the palpi are deep black,
the proximate half red above, and yellow beneath ; the
chelicera are large and shining black ; the abdomen has
a black band at the anterior part, and posteriorly, and on
the sides large bright patches of yellow ; the cephalo-
thorax, where not hid by the silky hairs, is dark green,
with yellow striae ; the legs are black, with bright yellow
rings at the joints, and the thighs, on the under surface,
are bright yellow, and the eyes are black and shining.
It forms a large, geometrical web, extended vertically be-
tween low bushes. Another remarkable insect was seen
feeding on the bark of a tree, and appeared to me to
resemble, more than anything else, the larva of one of
the Geometridte, which, being destined to live on a rough,
green bark, and not among twigs and slender stems, in-
stead of the usual brown colour, was of a bright green,
with the segments of the body dilated laterally, giving
it somewhat the appearance of a number of fronds of
the Lemna, or Duck-weed, strung together. When this
strange-looking caterpillar crawled, it hooped its body in
the manner peculiar to the members of the Geometrida
family.

392 HABITS OF THE HORSE-SHOE CRAB.

Near Point Romania, on the Peninsula of Malacca,
among several other curiosities of nature, I observed
numbers of the Limulus Moluccamts, or Horse-shoe Crab.
It progresses in a very awkward manner, beginning its
onward movement by raising its enormons cephalo-thorax,
or carapace, several degrees from the ground, by extend-
ing the joints of its legs, and standing on its toes or
ungual joints, which operation is, however, entirely con-
cealed from common observation ; thus reminding one of
the manceuvering operations of the ancient Testudo, a
sort of machine employed by the Romans in besieging
cities, under the roof of which the soldiers worked when
undermining the walls. When the anterior part of the
shell, or carapace, is sufficiently elevated, the whole
weight of the animal is thrown forwards, the shell is
then again raised, and the operation repeated. It carries
its spiniform tail and flattened abdomen trailing on the
the ground ; but when irritated, it raises the latter at an
obtuse angle with the body, while the tail is elevated per-
pendicularly in the air, and moved from side to side in a
threatening manner, When alive, the animal is of a dull,
greyish, leaden colour, and dirty brown on the abdominal
surface. I have sometimes been amused in putting to
flight a whole army of little Limuli, just after their
emergence from the ova. Their raised and threatening
tails, angry menaces, and uncouth efforts to escape, are
truly ludicrous. These young fry are frequently met
with among the shallow bays of the islands in the 'China
Sea, and I have found those of another species, (Limulus
longispinaj at Leegeetan, on the coast of Borneo. Among
the Japanese, the Limulus is employed to indicate the

SCENERY OF THE LINQA. 393

Zodiacal constellation of Cancer ; in China the L. hete-
rodactylus is esteemed choice eating ; and I have seen
the Malays use the carapace as a drinking cup, at the
springs, the long straight tail forming a capital handle.

The Thalassina scorpionoides is common both at Singa-
pore and Borneo ; living in vertical, cylindrical holes in
the ground, in marshy places, and on the banks of rivers.
During wet weather, and particularly after heavy rains,
it issues from its habitaculum and comes to the surface.
In its movements it is slow and feeble, and when taken,
is, apparently, defenceless, not making use of its chelae as
organs of aggression. In some parts of India it is said
to spoil the roads, and do considerable damage to the
plantations. It is exceedingly tenacious of life, one in my
possession existing upwards of an hour in proof spirits.

On our return to Sarawak, in July, I had the pleasure
of accompanying a boat expedition up the Linga, for
the purpose of capturing, if possible, the noted Arab
pirate, Sheriff Sahib. On our passage up this river, the
scenery was very splendid, and, as in many parts, we
grazed the bushes, I had excellent opportunities of
gathering epiphytes, and observing the different insects
that fluttered around us. The spectral-looking Phasma,
like some withered stick, moved slowly and deliberately
among the branches ; while his more lively congeners,
the pink-winged Empusa, and emerald-green Mantis, as
closely simulated the foliage of the trees on which they
hung, ever greedy for prey and rapine. It is very
amusing to watch a large-sized Mantis saw off the head
of some dipterous insect that has just become its prey :
he does it in such a surgical and business-like manner !

394 NATIVB RESOURCES.

Numerous Grylli and nimble-limbed Locusta, of large
dimensions and of splendid colours, spread their gauze-
like wings, and flew, with whirring noise, from spray to
spray. Hosts of merry, never-wearied Cicadas., flitting
about on their silvery membranous elytra, and sitting on
the twigs among the leaves, raised their shrilly voices
above, below, and around : —

" Hino querulas referunt voces, quis nantia limo
Corpora lympha fovet ; sonitus alit aeris echo,
Argutis et cuncta fremunt arbusta cicadis" *

Large Lepidoptera, with flapping wings, rose and sunk
amid the vistas of the wood, with that lazy way these
gorgeous creatures always have in tropical forests, sailing
slowly across the open spaces, and gradually disappearing
like lovely visions, amid the leafy labyrinths.

We came at length to the last bivouac of the fugitive
Sheriff, at a point of the river where the banks were
under water, and where there was an open space,
bounded by enormous forest trees, whose quaint and
knotted roots appeared above the swamp, in the form of
brown and wrinkled twisted serpents, arches full of ex-
traordinary contortions, and other strange forms usually
assumed by the roots of the Rhizophora Gymnorhiza and
similar trees. The pursued and persecuted remnant of the
enemy had chosen this miserable spot for its last resting-
place, having with native ingenuity thrown trees from
root to root, several feet from the surface of the water,
with cross pieces of bamboo, secured with rattans and
strips of pliant bark, and on these rude and slender plat-
forms had erected huts of branches. Here they had

* Virgil, Culcx. 1. 150.

THE LONG-NOSED MONKEY. 395

lighted their fires, and squatted for the night among the
creatures of the swamp.

During our ascent of this river, I had numerous op-
portunities of observing the habits of the Kahau, or
Proboscis Monkey, in his native woods ; for in the forests
of this part of Borneo, he forms a veiy conspicuous feature,
and occurs in great numbers ; and although the Semno-
pithecus nasicus, or Nasalis larvatus, is tolerably well
known, yet I am inclined to make a few observations on
its history, from having had so many opportunities of
examining it in a state of nature. The best account of
the animal I have seen, is in an excellent work called the
' Menageries.'

In their native woods these Semnopitheci are not so
agile as many of their quadrumanous consimilars, but
climb and walk in a more deliberate manner. Their
physiognomy is of a melancholy aspect, to which the pro-
minent nasal organ lends a somewhat ludicrous expres-
sion. When excited and angry, the female resembles
some tanned and peevish hag, snarling and shrewish.
They progress on all fours, and sometimes while on
the ground, raise themselves upright and look about
them. When they sleep, they squat like the Dyaks on
their hams, and bow their heads upon the breast. When
disturbed, they utter a short impatient cry, between a
sneeze and a scream, like that of a spoilt and passionate
child ; and in the selection of their food, they appear very
dainty, frequently destroying a fruit, and hardly tasting
it. When they emit their peculiar wheezing or hissing
sound, they avert and wrinkle the nose, and open the
mouth wide.

396 THE LONG-NOSED MONKEY.

In the male, the nose is a curved tubular trunk, large,
pendulous, and fleshy ; but in the female, it is smaller,
recurved, and not caruncular. In the latter, moreover,
the organ is grooved in the middle line, and ends in a
sharp point, from which it slopes abruptly to the upper
lip, forming a truncate surface, in which are placed the
nostrils. The eyes are small, and not much sunken ; the
pupil is large and circular, and the iris of a bright yellow-
ish brown. The following description of the colours of an
adult female seems to differ in some particulars from that
generally given. The hair on the frontal region was of
a deep chesnut colour, inclining to red ; the shoulders and
outer part of the upper arm red ; inner part dirty white ;
throat breast and belly white ; hair long, soft and silky ;
fore-arms, legs, and inner surface of thighs dirty grey, in
some parts inclining to silvery ; hairs on the back thick
and soft, and resembling in colour the fur of an old hare ;
on the sides, loins, and outsides of the thighs, it inclines
to rufous ; over the lumbar region is a triangular grey
patch, and the tail also is grey, inclining to whitish
towards the tip ; the naked skin of the face, when the
animal is alive, is a bright red brick-dust colour, but
after death, is a pale dirty pink. The palms are black.
Wormb says its cry resembles " Kahau," which name it
very frequently goes by. They do not, however, hold their
nose when they leap, nor do they seem to be particularly
gregarious.

On our return from this pirate hunt, we visited the
village of Bunting, and walked about admiring the
native ingenuity of the Dyak forges, the bellows of which
are formed of two hollow cylinders, with feather-suckers

THE BALOWS. 397

to the pistons ; observing with admiration several large
and handsome War prahus, building under sheds, of
great length, and having elevated and highly-ornamented
prows ; and more especially did we find amusement in
examining the interiors of those large Caravansaries
raised on poles, where the Balows live. The cabins
allotted to the married couples, are garnished with fur-
niture of a very simple and primitive description ; a rude
bed-place in one corner, and a few jars for holding water
in another, seemed to constitute the chief essentials for
the toilet and repose of the Dyak. These Balow dwel-
lings, which may be compared to enormous bee-hives,
have places under the kedjangs of the corridor, or gallery,
common to the whole swarm, where might be seen fowls
roosting by the dozen; various implements of war;
cooking utensils ; canoes unlashed, and taken to pieces ;
rush-woven mats ; looms for weaving sarongs ; huge
baskets of rice and corn ; and last, not least, among this
singular " omnium gatherum," at all events in the esti-
mation of the owners, numerous smoked and dusty
human heads, hanging suspended from the rafters, and
some of which I noticed of very recent capture. An
examination of their teeth and cranial peculiarities, ap-
prised me that one among them was the trophy of a
European ; several were Malayan, and by far the greater
number Dyak, with their black, stained, shark-like teeth.
Dalton, alluding to the propensity these people have
for hoarding up the heads of their enemies, says that
his friend Selgie, a Dyak chief of Coti, had as many as
one hundred and fifty ; and one of his sons, only twenty
years of age, was possessed of nine.

398 NATIVE BOAR-HUNT.

As we were reposing after dinner, in our boats, a
party of Balows came off in a canoe for medical advice.
I was fortunate in being able to give relief in a bad case
of Entropion, by removing a transverse flap of skin and
muscle from the eyelid, a proceeding which seemed to
give much satisfaction to the spectators; and, as usual in
these cases, presents of fruits and fowls were forced upon
my acceptance. Among these unfortunates was a man
with that tubercular form of Lepra, called Elephantiasis :

" corpore adeso,

Posterius, tremulas super ulcera tetra tenentes
Palmas, horriferis adcibat vocibus Orcum." *

Leaving the Batang Lupar on the 4th of September, we
returned to Sarawak, and shortly after, ascended the river
Lundu, and visited the town or campong of Tungong, on
that river, inhabited by the friendly Sibnowan Dyaks, one
of the mildest and most amiable of the tribes to be found
in the Sarawak territory. Here I had the pleasure of ac-
companying His Excellency, Rajah Brooke, the Hon. Capt.
Kepple of the Dido, and some others, in an excursion,
when a party of Sibnowan Dyaks was assembled to hunt
the Wild Boar in native fashion. Headed by Kalong,
eldest son of Sejugah, Orang Kaya, or chief of the village,
we proceeded in canoes to the hunting-ground, near the
mouth of the river, acco'mpanied by some numbers of a
small, fox-like breed of dogs, very active, bold and saga-
cious ; and after paddling for some distance, landed
beneath the shade of the dark-leaved Casuarinas, and
other forest trees, where the sand was marked with the
foot-prints of hogs, and covered with the tracks of deer.
* Lucretius, De Nat. Rerura. Lib. v. 1. 993.

WILD BOARS. 399

Each Dyak hunter carries a stout Nibong spear, with a
well-sharpened iron head, and when the eager dogs have
sniffed the game, and pressed into the tangled jungle,
fierce in the ardour of pursuit, the Dyak follows up the
chase, and bursts impetuously through the brushwood.
Meantime, the dogs have surrounded the frightened boar,
and while they are worrying and keeping him at bay,
the keen-edged spear of the hunter penetrates his side,
and an end is put to the moonlight foragings of the boar
for ever. In this manner six or seven pigs were dis-
patched in the course of the day.

The Boar of Borneo (Sus barbatus) has, when full-
grown, rather a formidable appearance. It is furnished
with enormous whiskers, a huge tuft upon the nose, and
a shaggy main ; and it has a fierce, red eye, and a singu-
larly elongated head and muzzle. It runs with great
rapidity, is very wild and wary, and is chiefly nocturnal
in its habits. It appears to be very partial to crustaceous
animals, which it finds on the muddy banks of the rivers
after the fall of the tide ; and is frequently seen at dusk,
wandering in large numbers along the flat sandy coasts,
evidently bent upon the exciting errand of searching for
these delicacies. Some are perfectly grey in the colour
of their skins, and a large specimen, captured by one of
the crew of our jolly-boat, as he was swimming across
the mouth of the Morataba river, was entirely of a dirty
white colour. This animal, which remained with us
some days, stood very high on his legs, and had a re-
markably long head. He was secured between two
guns on the main deck, but always continued very savage
and refractory. As we were leaving the anchorage, he

400 CRUSTACEA.

broke his tether, leaped out of the port, and was most
probably drowned, although we saw him strike out lustily
for the shore. One of this species was killed by Lieut,
(now Commander) Inglefield, at Unsang, on the east
coast of Borneo, of enormous dimensions. It was a full
grown boar, and weighed more than five score.

Many very interesting specimens may be procured at
low water, in the flat, sandy bay near the mouth of the
Lundu. It was here that we had the good fortune to
discover a new species of Amphwxus, or Lancelet. This
interesting link, between the annelides and the fishes,
has been described by Mr. Gray,* who has named it
Ampkioxus Belcheri. Here also we procured a very ele-
gant and beautiful species of Crustacea, also new to
science, Amphitrite argentata (Adams and White) ;f while
any person walking along the shores in the immediate
neighbourhood, might have collected numbers of very
perfect specimens of Tellina Spengleri, beautiful violet-
coloured Mactras, (Mactra violacea,} Solenocurtus radiatus,
and frequently a tolerably perfect specimen of Rostellaria
rectirostris. Olives and Nassas cover the moist sand,
and a brilliant dark-coloured Rotella, a species not yet
described, may be detected lurking by thousands imme-
diately below the surface in company with another species.
Several specimens of that strange genus, Calappa, were
taken by us in this locality.

Near the Dyak village of Samarhtan, not far from the
mouth of the Lundu, there are certain mud-banks left
dry at low water, and which are perfectly cribriform with

* Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. vol. xix. p. 463.
f List of Specimens of Crust, in Brit. Mus. p. 126.

HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS. 401

the cylindric holes of Gelasimi, Ocypode, and Gonoplax.
When their communities are no longer flooded by the
water, these bustling little Crustaceans make their ap-
pearance in dense crowds, but retreat on the slightest
alarm to their subterranean burrows. They are of every
variety of colour, some of them being milk-white, some
purple, others reddish, and many perfectly black. So
numerous are these Crabs, that seen at a little distance,
they give the soil a variegated aspect, nearly obscuring
the original blue colour of the mud. A Crab, with a trian-
gular carapace, of a light brown, is also common among
the tufts of grass in the vicinity.

A. few remarks on the habits of certain genera of Crus-
taceans, which I have noticed in the course of our wan-
derings, may be deemed of interest by some of my
readers, although the subject will be more fully treated
of in another work. The Grapsi are more varied in their
habits than is generally supposed. The common species
(G. varius] and others, are found running over the rocks
near the sea, feeding on the Periopthalmi, Blennies,
and other fish, that quit the water for short inter-
vals, and attacking occasionally the sessile Cirrhipeds,
as Balanus and Conia, fixed on the surface, or that
pedunculated one which fills up the fissures, the Poli-
cipes. Darwin tells us, he has seen them come to the
nests of Sea-birds, and without ceremony help them-
selves to the fish which the parent birds had brought to
feed their nestlings. They run with the greatest rapidity,
and are very cunning and difficult to capture. There is
one species, however, (G.latifrons, White) that I have found
inhabiting fresh-water rivulets and ponds, which has all

VOL. II. 2 I)

402 HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS.

the quick, vivacious movements of its wary consirnilars,
and when hotly pursued hides under weeds and stones,
remaining perfectly quiet till the enemy is supposed to be
gone. The most common species on the coast of Borneo
appears to be the Grapsm plicatm, which differs, however,
in colour in a very remarkable degree, even in localities
not very distant from each other.

Some of the large, powerful species of Grapsida are
very bold, active, and predacious. I have seen them steal
with an almost imperceptible motion, and in a cautious
sidelong manner, towards a Periophthalmus basking on
the rock, and before the fish had time to plunge into the
sea, the pincer of the crab had secured it in a vice-like
gripe, and the unfortunate victim was consumed at leisure.
While watching the evolutions of this lively and sagacious
Crustacean, I could not help comparing it to an enor-
mous Attus or Jumping Spider, which, in a somewhat
similar manner, creeps towards the flies on which it preys,
and suddenly surprises them, by leaping on their backs,
and sucking their blood.

The Lambrus, owing to its similarity to the gravelly
floor on which it is generally found, must readily escape
detection by its enemies. Its body and members, in fact,
appear to be made up of a conglomerated mass of small
stones. It is a curious fact that so many animals, living
upon the submerged beds of broken shells and muddy
gravel in the China Sea, should present a similar appear-
ance. Such is the case with Phoridte, Ampldtrite, and
many species of Alcyonia. Two new species of the genus
Lambrus were obtained from the Java Sea, and the coast
of Borneo, and have been named by Mr. White and
myself L. rapax and L. seynis.

HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS. 403

Where one of the mouths of the Sarawak disembogues
into the sea, at low water, there is a very extensive mud-
flat, the entire surface of which is perforated in every
part by a hitherto undescribed species of Gebia, which
hides in a perpendicular position, in a superficial burrow,
with the extremities of the chelae at the orifice for the
purpose of securing whatever prey may offer. Thousands
of Macrophthalmi and other crabs live in the same spot,
with a small species of Lingula ; while upon the slimy
surface, crawl thousands of little brown Cylichna, several
Mangelite, and Columbetta.

The Spheromas are generally obtained in company with
Cymodocete, CassidincB, Amplioroidete and others, among
dense masses of floating Sea-weed, where they appear to
live an active predatory life among the populous mazes of
their small, floating forest. They are constantly spinning
and darting about, rolling up their bodies into a ball,
then straightening them, and crawling among the Algae
and Keratophytes, with a great deal of vivacity. Among
the collection brought home in the Samarang, are several
species not before known to Crustaceologists.

The very handsome genus Sicyonia of Edwards, swims
in a slow and deliberate manner forwards, and occasion-
ally with a sudden jerk propels itself vigorously, in a
backward direction. It keeps at a considerable distance
from the shore, and appears to love deep, still water,
never appearing when the sea is at all ruffled. The
species obtained by us is new, and is deposited, with the
other Crustaceans, in the British Museum.

Like the genera Thenus and Ibacus, the Scyttants lives
at some distance from the shore, and in tolerably deep

2 i) -2

404 HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS.

water. It swims in the manner of a Oranpon, by rapid
inflections of the abdomen. It will occasionally spring
through the water with the greatest velocity, in a back-
ward direction, and when caught wounds the hands with
the tail, which it throws about with violent jerks.

Among numbers of new and interesting genera of
Crustaceous animals found by us in the province of
Unsang, Borneo, was a new species of Alope (White), a
remarkable shrimp-like animal, with one foot-claw rudi-
mental, and the other enormously developed. It is an
active and restless little creature, darting and whirling
forwards and backwards, and frequently producing a
loud clicking noise by snapping the pincer at the end of
the large foot-claw, in the manner of the Callianassa and
Squilla. Specimens may be found under nearly every
stone which is turned on the beach at low-water mark,
and the loud noise it makes, when discovered, would
astonish persons ignorant of the cause of its production.

The Gonodactyli appear to differ from Squilla in their
habits, inasmuch as they are generally found in deeper
water, whereas the Squilla affect the shallow, weedy, and
sandy bottoms, within coral reefs, and on flat beaches,
where they hide in holes of the banks of pools, across
which they dart occasionally in straight lines, leaving a
turbid track behind them. They both, however, have
the same power of producing a loud clicking noise with
their chelae, and of inflicting very severe wounds with
those organs, using them in a scythe-like manner, like
the Mantis.

The Cryptopodia dorsalis (Adams and White) is found
on a stony bottom, in deep water. It has the habits of

HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS. 405

Calappa, feigning death, and concealing the legs under
the edge of the carapace, and folding the chelae upon
themselves to protect the eyes and mouth.

The Trapezia are tolerably lively in their habits, with
the same manner of hiding, and shuffling under stones,
as the Porcettance ; but unlike them, they inhabit the coral
branches of deep sunken reefs.

Many species of Idotea and lara would appear to in-
habit the Sea-weed along the shores, as well as that
found floating in the high seas. At Quelpart, I found a
large and singular species, not yet described, in the
former situation ; and in the sea of Celebes, I met with
another new form among Algae far from land.

The species of the genus Lupocyclus (Adams and White)
are very active in the water, and keep rather close in
shore. They swim by quick, rapid jerks along the
bottom, and when caught, pinch rather severely, and
wound the fingers with the spines of their chelae. Their
habits, indeed, are very similar to those of Lupa, Neptu-
nus, and other swimming crabs.

The Chorinus acanthonotus (Adams and White) inhabits,
like the Mithrax, deep water, and prefers those localities
where the bottom is covered with weeds ; it is inactive in
its movements, and becomes rigid in all its limbs when
first captured.

400

CHAPTER VII.

BOKNEO.

Atitbotvg — The Badjows — The Illanons — Appearance of the Country —
Wild Men in the Mountains — Tampassook — Scenery — The haunts
of Pirates— New species of Lantern-Fly — Lantern-Flies not lumi-
nous— A beautiful Flata — Gigantic Tent-Caterpillar — Habits of
certain Ants — The dwellings of the White Ants — Habits of
Scarabi and other Mollusks — Brunai — The Upas-Tree — The
Pantai — Scenery of the River — A deserted Village — The Rajah's
grave — Bats and other Animals — Bulungan — The Orang Sagai —
Wild and cultivated Plants — Terrestrial Leeches — The Nibong
Palm — Vegetable Tallow — Aromatic Barks — Plants used for be-
numbing Fish — Singular mode of fishing — Insects — Leegeetan —
Scenery — Poisonous Plants — Insects — Birds — Habits of Crusta-
ceans.

ON the 25th of September, the Samarang was again
at Singapore, leaving which we arrived at Borneo on the
1 3th of October, touched at the Island of Labuan on the
22nd, and on the 3rd of November, the ship was towed
into the snug little bay of Ambong, our business being
to rescue, if possible, an English lady, said to be
detained prisoner at this place. The village is miserably
poor and dirty, with about fifty houses, and a few
squallid, leprous Badjows, or Sea Gypsies, for inha-
bitants. So badly off for comforts were these poor

PIRATES AND WILD-MEN. 407

people that they willingly gave us a bullock for a piece of
calico, and a fowl for an empty wine-bottle. They told a
pitiful, and no doubt perfectly true, story about a famous
Illanon pirate-chief, having come from the neighbouring
Tampassook, and taken away the young men of the vil-
lage, leaving those that remained nearly destitute. The
adjoining country is beautiful, exhibiting in its sea-ward
aspect more especially, gently undulating hills, covered
with a long, rank, green-looking grass, in many parts
higher than a man's head ; little rivulets trickle down the
sides, and form refreshing springs under the shade of the
trees that overhang the beaches of little coves and bays.
The mountains in the vicinity are inhabited by a wild
and savage race of Dyaks, possessed, by all accounts,
of a much larger stock of energy than the poverty-stricken
gypsies of the village. The bay abounded with fish of
the most beautiful colours and striking forms, keeping
my pencil pretty well employed.

On the 10th of November we touched at Tampassook,
a lovely, fertile plain, with a river running through it,
from its source in the huge mountain of Kini Balu,
which towers above the plain, and forms a most imposing
back-ground. The towns about here, and on the river's
banks, are stated to swarm with Illanon pirates, a brave
and bold set of buccaneers, who keep the entire coasts of
Borneo and other islands in a constant state of alarm.
Those we saw were fierce, proud, and well-made men,
handsomely clothed, and fully armed.

Among several other splendid insects captured by me
in the course of this short cruise, I may mention a large
and handsome new species of Lantern-Fly, which I have

408 LANTERN-FLIES.

named Fidgora (Hotinus) Sultana* The form of the
beak, or rostrum, is intermediate between that of H.
clavatus and H. pyrorhynchus, and like the upper surface
of the thorax, is of a rich blood-red colour ; the elytra
are blackish, brown at the base, with the tip ochraceous,
and traversed by numerous veins of the same colour ; the
wings are of a deep carmine, fading to pink towards the
anal angle, the tips being brown, with four or five
roundish white spots. The body above is straw-coloured,
and, when the insect was alive, was covered with a white
mealy substance, which I have noticed on many other
insects in the tropics. This showy-looking addition to
our known Lantern-Flies remains in a torpid state during
the day, and becomes more active in the evening ; in this
respect being analogous to its consimilar genera Aphenia,
Flata, Ptfciloptera, and Euriptera, which generally select
the early part of the night for their Sittings. None
of these insects, according to my observation, are lumi-
nous in the slightest degree ; I have kept the Hotinus
Sultana, and the common Chinese species, for many
days, but have never seen the vestige of any luminous
property, either about their so-called lanterns, or else-
where. Madame Merian has stated, however, that the
Surinam species is luminous.

I have figured a very lovely unpublished species of
Flata, which I procured in the jungle immediately
behind the village of Ambong, the elytra of which are of
a light semi-transparent sepia, with a darker brown circle
and a broad diagonal white linear mark, and yellowish
tips ; the wings are of a light, silvery, semi-opaque

* Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. vol. xx. p. 204.

GIGANTIC TENT-CATERPILLAR. 409

white, the head is fawn-coloured ; the eyes and the
antennae are black ; the thighs pale-yellow, and the
legs and tarsi black. This truly elegant species flies by
night in a weak and fluttering manner, and with a
peculiar oscillatory movement of the wings ; by day it is
sluggish, and reposes on the surface of leaves. Near
Ambong an Oiketicus is found feeding on the trees with
a case an inch and a half long, composed of dead and
withered leaves, forming externally a compact and hollow
cylinder, closed at the posterior end, and lined with a
well-woven, downy felt, of a dirty brown-colour, fabri-
cated from a finely-comminuted, vegetable substance.
The larva is tolerably active and very voracious, and the
imago is a large, dull-brown moth. Among the high
grass, I noticed the active black-and-yellow Gryllus
elegam (Guer) and, alighting on the leaves in sunny spots
of the forests, may be seen the Phytomia chrysorrkcea
(Guer) of a beautiful metallic-blue, with a golden tail,
and the large carnivorous Milesia gigas.

During a ramble into the jungle, I was very much
amused by observing the great variety of Ants that
abound in these forests of Borneo. An Ant, usually
more solitary than its neighbours, which I have named
the " Bombardier," has a mode of defence similar to that
of Brachinus crcpitans. When irritated, it turns up the
caudal segments of the body in the manner of an angry
Staphylinus, and forthwith emits a continuous stream of
dense, white, acrid vapour. This Ant is nearly half an
inch long, with a large head and enormous mandibles.
It is of a shiny black colour, and has no sting.

There is another ingenious species which constructs its

410 HABITS OF ANTS.

domicile out of a large leaf, bending the two halves by
the weight of united millions, till the opposite margins
meet at the under surface of the midrib, where they are
secured by a gummy matter. The stores and larvae are
conveyed into this arboreal home by regular beaten
tracks, along the trunk and branches of the tree.

On the banks of the Linga, the trees are covered with
black-coloured nests built by an insect of a red colour
and of large size. These aerial habitacula are formed of
prepared vegetable matter, mixed with a tenacious
secretion, and peopled with inhabitants furnished with a
most tormenting sting.

In many parts of Borneo, there is a shining black Ant
about the sixth of an inch long, whose habits are
altogether nocturnal. During the day, it remains con-
cealed within its subterranean galleries; but as the night
advances, it covers the ground in moist and sheltered
places with its myriad hordes. Its sting is very severe,
though the pain and irritation soon pass away.

The habitations of those ingenious little architects, the
Termites, or white Ants, have been often mentioned by tra-
vellers. One species occurring among these islands builds its
city of finely-comminuted leaves and mud, forming a huge
hemispherical nest on the trunks of trees. The interior
consists of myriads of cancetti, separated by walls and
passages, which are all thronged by the tiny soft-bodied
inhabitants. On being disturbed, the big-headed soldiers
make absurd and impotent attempts to defend their
Queen and helpless workers, who immediately retire
within the recesses of the city. Seen from a little
distance, this arboreal insect-metropolis looks like an

SCARABI AND OTHER MOLLTJSKS. 411

enormous vegetable excrescence, or wen growing from
the bole of the tree. There are, moreover, covered
galleries from the ground, made of mud, leading to the
city gates.

Cuvier says the Scarabi feed on aquatic plants, but I
have never observed them among the Algae that lie along
the shore; but in the dark, damp woods, more par-
ticularly along the sea-coasts, they are very numerous.
They love a humid soil, and crawl languidly like the
snail. They are fond of congregating together under
stones and tree-roots, or in holes of the ground. They
feed on partially decayed leaves, and lay their eggs under
damp rotten logs, and the young shells may be found
concealed, in large numbers, in the crevices of dead
trunks. The Scarabi assume various shades of colour,
from a mottled reddish brown to pale yellow, and I have
even seen them white.

The species of Conovulus, which lives entirely in the
salt water, has a shell of a much firmer character than
that which is found amphibious, among the mangrove
swamps. In fact, it generally follows, that shells, which
inhabit both the land and the water, are intermediate in
density of structure between marine and terrestrial species,
and are covered in general with an epidermis. Thus we
find Telescopium, Potomis, and Terebralia, covered with a
kind of epidermis, and their calcareous dwellings less
solid than their marine analogues, the Ccrithia. In like
manner, I have found a shell in the rivers of Celebes,
named Mdatoma, by Swainson, which bears the same
relation to PIcuroloma. The Potawomya is a thinner

412 MOLLUSCA.

shell than Corbula, which it represents, and Neritina than
Nerita. I have found a species of Pkolas in the fresh-
water rivers of Borneo, living in dead trunks of trees,
which is partially covered with a thick brown epidermis.

It is a curious fact that the nearer mollusks live
to the sea-water, the more dense their shells generally
become. This may be noticed in those species of
Auricula and Melampus, found among the loose stones
on beaches ; and among the Korean Islands, I have found
a Cydostoma, in heaps of stones, near the sea, of a very
compact appearance, compared with the terrestrial species.
The Cyclotrema and Scalaria, their marine analogues,
are yet more calcareous and dense in their structure.
Among the Philippines, I have observed some auriculari-
form MitrfB crawling about the stones, which the receding
tide had left exposed, in the manner of the Quoyia and
certain species of Planaxis. These Mitrce have an
epidermis, and are hardly of so dense a nature as other
members of the family. The exception to the foregoing
rule is to be found in those pelagic animals, in which the
extreme lightness of the shell constitutes their best
security ; for the ocean may toss them in its fury, but,
unless a foreign body interpose, their tenuity saves them
from being injured.

While residing at Brunai, I had an opportunity of
examining the celebrated Upas-tree which grows on the
banks of the river opposite the city, and a short ac-
count of it is given in the body of the work ; a few
notes which I shall here add, may not, however, be
deemed altogether void of interest.

THE UPAS. 413

Mr. Crawfurd observes* that the word upas "is not a
specific term, but the common name for poison of any
description whatever." He says that Antiaris toxicaria,
although the common source of the vegetable poison in
use, does not yield so intense a poison as the Chetik, a
large creeping plant found only in Java. This is the
same plant Strychnos Tieute, "Tshettik" or "Tjettik," I
have alluded to in my notice of the Upas-tree, as the
Upas-Radja of the Japanese. The symptoms produced
by the Strychnos poison are nervous, while those produced
by the juice of the Antiaris act chiefly on the vascular
system. The violent effects of the latter are certainly
very much exaggerated, and from what I have noticed
myself and gathered from hearsay, I am inclined to agree
with Mr. Crawfurd, who observes very truly that "it
proves hurtful to no plant around it, and creepers and
parasitical plants are found winding in abundance
about it; " and in another place "beneath the shade of it
the husbandman may repose himself with as much
security as under that of cocoa-palm or bamboo." The
supposed remedy which Rumphius mentions under the
names of Bakung and Radix-toxicaria is the Crinum
asiaticum of Roxborough,f the bulbs of which act bene-
ficially by inducing violent vomiting.

Mr. Brooke, in his journal, makes the following obser-
vation on this famous poison-tree, and the plants sometimes
confounded with it: — "On the authority of Sulerman,
an intelligent Meri man, I am told that the tree below the
town is the real upas, called by the Meri men tajim.

*Hist. Incl. Arch. vol. i. p. 467
f Flor. Ind. Vol. 2. p. 128.

414 ASCEND A RIVER.

The Borneons call it upas. Bina (the name we formerly
got from a Borneon for upas) is by Sulerman's statement
a thin creeper, the root or stem of which, being steeped
in water, is added to the upas to increase the poisonous
quality: it is not, however, poisonous itself. There is
another creeper, likewise called bina, the leaves of which
are steeped and mixed with the upas, instead of a stem of
the first sort." With this interesting statement, we dis-
miss the Upas, by admitting in the words of Crawfurd
that, "Every thing we know of the true history of the
Upas tree proclaims the egregious mendacity of the man
who promulgated the fable respecting it, which has
obtained currency in Europe, and the extraordinary
credulity of those who listened to his extravagant fic-
tion."*

On the 27th of November, we left Manila, for the pur-
pose of rescuing from the hands of the Sultans of Bulungan
and Gunung Taboor, the crew of the ' Premier,' a mer-
chant ship which had been wrecked on a shoal near Pulo
Panjang, on the coast of Borneo, first touching at Sooloo
for the purpose of procuring a pilot. On our passage to
the Pantai river we perceived the remains of the ill-
fated vessel. As we ascended the river, the scenery was
observed to be very wild and romantic, conveying a strik-
ing view of the vast extent of vegetation which exists in
every part of this island. Meeting with no traces of
habitations, however, in this long branch of the river, we
returned to the ship, and on the following day proceeded
to explore the other branch, which, as we ascended it,
expanded in one part of its course into a large, wide,
*Hist. Ind. Arch. vol. i. page 471.

A DESERTED VILLAGE. 415

navigable river, with numerous islets dotting its surface,
and having the banks clothed with the most superb
timber-trees, and the most beautiful and luxuriant vege-
tation imaginable.

In the course of our progress up the river, we came to
a deserted village, and while the captain was observing, I
joined an exploring expedition, and examined the country
around. Our attention being directed to a building on a
hill surmounting the ruined hamlet, we scaled the height,
and found it to consist of the tomb of a Rajah or other
great man. It was neatly palisadoed round, and covered
with a kedjang roof, while, in the interior, over the grave,
was a faded canopy of silk. In the course of our scrutiny
a large and handsome Snake was espied among the rafters,
and an animated hunt ensued, which ended, however, in
the escape of the serpent. In our eagerness to obtain the
specimen, the shed was unroofed, and, as I was anxious
to ascertain the mode of sepulture among the Malays, I
got permission from the captain to dis-inter the Rajah,
and examine the grave. Some men being placed at my
disposal, we proceeded in our unholy work, and, at about
four feet from the surface, came to a board placed in a
diagonal manner across the shaft, on carefully removing
which we perceived a square lateral chamber, or cavity,
where the mortal remains of the deceased " Orang Kaya"
were reposing. The skeleton was that of a very old man,
and is now in the Museum of the College of Surgeons.
Not a vestige of clothing, not even the wrapper of white
cloth which is said to be generally employed, nor any
arms, amulets, or ornaments of any kind were found in
the grave. The body was laid upon the right side, with

416 BATS AND OTHER ANIMALS.

the knees in a bent position ; and the flesh was mummi-
fied and adhering firmly to the bone ; the ligament con-
necting the hyoid bone to the styloid process, and also
the thyroid and cricoid cartilages were completely ossified;
the hair was thin, and the alveolar processes of the jaws
absorbed, thus proving the extreme old age of the ex-
humed.

I was very much astonished at the great numbers of
bats which were here concealed in the heads of the Ba-
nana trees, and which flew forth, when disturbed, on feeble,
fluttering wings, many among them having a couple of
little ones clinging tenaciously to the pectoral mammae of
their mothers. The swampy ground in the neighbour-
hood abounded in Assiminea, small univalve Mollusks,
and was covered in many places by the foot-prints of
deer and wild hogs. On raising a tablet suspended
to an old tombstone, to endeavour to decipher the in-
scription, I made captive an enormous black scorpion,
which had there taken up his quarters.

Upon passing the first portion of Bulungan, we were
desired to proceed no further, or the Sultan would fire
upon us. Disregarding these admonitory warnings,
however, the boats continued their rapid progress up the
river, and finally came to an anchor immediately opposite
the palace of the Sultan Before this edifice was an open
space, planted with numerous pieces of cannon, some of
large calibre, but old, and badly mounted ; these were
manned by crowds of brown-skinned warriors, while
hundreds of excited armed men thronged the banks in
readiness to throw the spear and blow the deadly sumpit.
After an attempt to intimidate us by a pretence to fire,

ORANG SAGHAI. 417

they thought it advisable to establish a friendly under-
standing with their visitors. Accordingly, an old Arab,
the Sultan's vizier, or prime minister, came off and
civilly enquired our pleasure. On being informed of the
nature of our errand, he returned to apprize his Highness,
and to prepare a rough salute in honour of the British
flag, which latter was performed in a respectable manner,
and returned by us in somewhat better style ; in short,
in such a way as to constrain the natives to behave very
civilly while we remained before the city. The officers
accompanied the Captain upon a visit to the Sultan, in
state, who consented to deliver up the Lascars then in his
possession, without demanding ransom. As many of these
unfortunates were distributed throughout the country,
some at a considerable distance from Bulungan, we were
necessitated to wait in the river more than a week before
the entire number could be collected, which afforded us
an opportunity of seeing something of the neighbourhood.
In the town I noticed the Phoenix farinifera and in the
jungle around Caryota urens, Borassus caudata, Bam-
bos verticillata, Pandanus Icevis, a species of Calamus,
and various plants altogether new to me ; offering a rich
harvest for an enterprising collector, and a rare intellec-
tual treat to the Botanist.

During our stay at Bulungan, we had numerous oppor-
tunities of observing the " Orang Saghai," or wild men of
Borneo, who came from the mountains in great numbers,
probably to offer their services to the Malays, in case of
any warlike operations ensuing with the English. On
our proceeding up the river, long before the town came
into view, isolated canoes betrayed its vicinity. As we

2 E

418 THE SAOHAI DYAKS.

drew nearer, however, the boats became very numerous,
some containing hunting and fishing parties, and others
fully equipped for war. Among the most striking of
these latter, were several long and narrow canoes, manned
entirely by Dyaks, arrayed in all their savage finery of
plumes and skins and beads and other uncouth orna-
ments, armed invariably with the blowpipe or sumpitan,
and carrying quivers of sumpits, or small upas-poisoned
arrows, a long light spear, a shield of wood, and their
constant companion, the sharp -edged parang ; being thus
prepared, as they thought, either for attack or defence.
Displaying in their manner neither the guile nor caution
of the treacherous and wily Malay, these untutored deni-
zens of the interior showed an evident and lively curiosity
about our visit, striving to approach the boats and engage
in conversation with the white man. As they propel
their narrow canoes rapidly along the river, they always
stand upright, using the paddle with a peculiar jerking
motion of the body. Many among them, particularly
those holding the rank of chieftains, were very gaily and
fantastically ornamented. In the feather caps, worn by
some, the long tail-feathers of the Argus pheasant
appeared to be a favourite ornament. In the rude and
showy head-dresses of several were toupees of the tail-
feathers of cocks and other birds, giving these Orang
Saghai very much the appearance of a party of North
American Indians, dressed for the war-path. Many of
their caps were made of monkey, lynx, and tiger skins,
and adorned with the beak of the large Hornbill (Buceros
Rhinoceros.} Some of the men were regularly tattooed
being ornamented, more particularly on the fore-arm and

THE SAGHAI. 419

instep, with various figures, frequently very graceful in
their design, and very neatly executed.* The ears of the
great majority were wonderfully metamorphosed, and
greatly disfigured, by the insertion of tigers' teeth in a
hole of the summit of the pinna, and of rings, sometimes
single and sometimes as many as four or five, composed
of tin and very massive, appended to the lobe, forming
cumbrous ear-rings. These enormous metallic pendants,
being very heavy, greatly distended the aperture in the
lobe, which frequently descended as low as the shoulder.
They dress variously in the skins of animals, or in jackets
made of the bark of trees ; some, however, were entirely
naked, with the exception of a waist-band and perineal
appendage. When the jacket or body-garment consists
of a lynx or tiger's skin, the hind-paws and tail, or fore-
paws and head, hang down behind, which gives the wearer
a very wild and picturesque appearance.

A chief, named Meta, was very anxious that we should
visit him in his home among the hills. He seemed to
take a very particular liking to the English, and was our
constant visitor. On one occasion a follower of his was
detected in the act of abstracting a piece of white calico,
when he was immediately seized, and severely chastised
by the indignant chief. The captain forwarded a letter by
this savage to Mr. Brooke, at Sarawak, Meta assuring
him that it would arrive at Brunai perfectly safe, as he
would transmit it across the country from tribe to tribe,

* Mr. Earl says, that he has seen tattooed Dayaks, and that the
Polynesian custom of tattooing the skin prevails among the Dayak
tribes in the interior of Borneo. — PRICHAUD'S Phys. Hist, of Man-
kind, vol. v, p. 91.

2 E 2

420 THE SAGHAI

carefully avoiding those who were his enemies. The
same chief blew for our satisfaction some sumpits across
the river ; the effort appeared to be very great, but the
direction of the dart was straight, and its force consider-
able. Before using the sumpits, they tip them with fresh
poison, and steep them in a small vessel of lime-juice, which
increases its virulence and activity. Their helmets, or
head-pieces, which are made of strong skin and bamboo,
are said to be sumpit-proof; so are also the corselets
which cover their breast and back, so that only the arms
and legs are left exposed. Many have a large polished
pearl-shell appended in front, probably to protect the belly
and navel. Their shields are of hard wood, variously
painted and ornamented with shells and tufts of human
hair. Some of these shields are upwards of four and five
feet long, and two broad.

These men are much better featured than the Ma-
lays, having straighter and more prominent noses and
higher foreheads. They wear their hair long and straight,
but cut short across the forehead. It is coarse and black,
and often confined by a white cincture, especially among
the women and boys. Cutaneous diseases appeared
common among them, particularly a rough, scurfy kind of
lepra, which, however, they are said to produce artificially,
and consider ornamental.* The women in this part of
the island do not appear to wear the ring-stays of stained

* Mr. Earle observes, that the word ' Dayak' is often used by the
Malays to designate a cutaneous disease to which the aborigines of
Borneo are very liable, more so than any of the other Polynesian tribes
whom I have encountered. I am of opinion that this is the origin of
the term Dayak, as applied to the aborigines of Borneo. — PRICHARD'S
Phys. Hist, of Mankind, vol. v. p. 89.

DYAKS. 421

bamboo peculiar to some tribes, as the hill Dyaks of
Serambo and others, but have simply a sarong, which
extends from below the breasts to about half way dow u
the thigh. Like the men, they disfigure themselves by
wearing enormous weighty ornaments of wood, ivory, or
tin in the lobes of their ears. In their persons they are
usually engaging and well made, stately and voluptuous
in their gait and manner, though somewhat too en bon
point to please the fastidious eye of an Englishman. They
are reported by the Malays to be very modest, chaste, and
constant to their husbands. Their chief employment
here, as elsewhere in Borneo, is pounding and preparing
the padi for the sustenance of their lords and families.
In all the Dyak tribes, the members are usually divided
into those who make war, privileged men, the flower of the
tribe ; those who manufacture arms ; and those who cul-
tivate the ground and make ornaments for the women.
By means of the Saghai a profitable trade is carried on
with certain Bugis Makassars, who come in large well-
armed prahus from Celebes. Their traffic consists chiefly
of bees-wax and camphor, honey, vegetable-tallow, and
areca-nuts ; trepang, damma or darner, (the concrete juice
of Shorea robusta,} sharks'-fins, tortoise-shell, edible
birds' -nests, and pearls : the specimens of the latter
which I saw, although in some instances of large size,
were very indifferent in form and colour.

Though differing in some respects from the rude and
savage Scythians who had their flocks and herds, the
Dyaks yet exhibit a pastoral wandering life, mingled
with warlike habits and sanguinary customs, resembling
those of that ancient people. Like the North American

422 DYAKS.

Indians, they also congregate in tribes, and only obey
chiefs elected from the wisest and bravest of their horde.
Although in a measure addicted to the chase, they yet
cultivate the soil, and live upon the produce of the earth.
Like the Indians of the West, they are fond of decorating
themselves with feathers and trophies, and if they do not
scalp their enemies, they deprive them of their heads.
Amongst themselves they are quiet and gentle, but in
war their passions are frightful, fierce, and vengeful.

The females are better treated than is generally the
case in savage tribes ; they grind the padi and fabricate
the clothing ; nor does the whole burden of tilling the
ground devolve entirely on the weaker sex, as is the case
in some countries not yet civilised. In the terrible ex-
citement of war, the fierce yells of the Dyaks, like the
whoops of the Red-Man, are demoniac. Instead of the
quiver and bow, the tomahawk and scalping-knife, the
Dyak arms himself with sumpitan and sumpits, spear,
and parang. They attack their enemy in the dead of
night, without even the fair warning of the red-tomahawk
of the American Indian, and with equally as much guile
and remorseless compunction. It is a somewhat remark-
able fact, that many among the Dyaks fancy heaven is
situated at the top of Kini-Balu, and that the pass is
defended by a savage dog. The North American Indians
likewise imagine their land of souls to be guarded by a
furious dog. It is singular that the Greeks of old should
have entertained a similar notion, the warder, old Cer-
berus, at the gates of Hades, being represented as a three-
headed dog. The Dyaks believe in one God, whom they,
like the Red-Man, regard as the creating and preserving

WILD TRIBES. 423

Spirit of the universe ; and they both have in common,
moreover, a belief in omens, and hold certain birds in
veneration. With regard to the barbarous custom of
cutting off heads, we are told that the aboriginal inha-
bitants of New Guinea, the Horraforas, have precisely the
same practice. Dr. Coulter, an American gentleman, in
an account of his adventures among those people, ob-
serves, that they have " a horrible custom I believe pecu-
liar to themselves : a young man, before he can possess
his bride, must present her with a human head, which
must not be mutilated, but on careful examination of it
by her family, bear the true marks and ornaments of one
of an enemy."

Dr. Dalton, in his " Essay on the Dyaks," speaks of
some wild men that inhabit the north of Borneo, who
neither cultivate the ground nor live in huts, but roam
about in a perfect state of nature ; who do not associate,
save when the sexes meet in the forest. When their
children are old enough to shift for themselves, they quit
their parents and pursue a similar savage and independent
life. They sleep under the overhanging branches of the
trees, make a fire to keep off the wild beasts and snakes,
cover themselves with a piece of bark, and are hunted by
the other Dyaks, who regard them with the utmost
contempt. These nobler Savages "shoot the children in
the trees with the sumpit, the same as monkeys from
which they are not easily to be distinguished." Dr.
Leyden also observes that "the lofty mountains ranged
on the centre of Borneo are represented as occupied by a
people named Punams in the very rudest state of savage
life."

424 VEGETATION.

As you approach a Dyak Village, the splendour of
tropical vegetation cannot fail to impress the visitor.
The magnificent Maize (Zea mays] springs up often in
large and vivid patches ; the Bird's-eye Pepper and
Turmeric are found growing like common weeds. The
Piper Betle* the leaf of which is chewed with ripe or
green pieces of the nut of Areca oleracea, is a graceful,
pretty looking plant, particularly when loaded with long
spikes of fruit. Some individuals appear however, never to
have fruit, and are probably barren or males. The Piper
Betle either runs like a creeper along the ground, or
clings to the trunks of trees in its vicinity. Sometimes
you will see it climbing up poles or the stems of the
Papyia and Areca palms in little patches which are
carefully guarded by rude palisades, and great pains taken
by attention to irrigation, &c. to insure a good flavour in
the leaves. Crawfurd says that "in the northern parts
of Hindostan it is grown almost with as much difficulty
as the plants of warm regions in our hot-houses." It is
a curious circumstance that the use of the Sirih leaf
diminishes perspiration, while that of the Ava (Piper
metliysticum} is used among the Society Islands to produce
excessive diaphoresis for the cure of disease. The Durion
(Durio Zibetliinus) and Mangustan (Garcinia Mangostana)
will be seen in some campongs amid whole groves of
broad-leaved Plantains (Musa paradisiaca), graceful
Cocoa-nuts (Cocos nucifera), elegant Palmyras (Borasms

* So written by Linnaeus (Sp, Plant 40.) Mr. Crawfurd has Piper
Betel, although he observes (Ind. Arch. p. 403) that "the word adopted
in the European languages is from the Telinga, in which it is indifferently
pronounced Betle or Bctre."

TERRESTRIAL LEECHES. 425

flabelliformis), and the slender tapering Betel-nut palm
(Areca oleraced) ; while the showy-looking Papaw (Carica
Papaya), and here and there a Rhambutan tree (Nephe-
lium Cappaceum}, or a dark-leaved Guava (Psidium
pyriferum) will contrast with the golden fruit of the
"Limau gadang," or Shaddock. The Bamboo (Arundo
Bambos) forms extensive groves at the back of many of
the houses, and the Pine-apple (Bromelia ananas)
luxuriates in the dark damp shady nooks. If you leave
the neighbourhood of man, and take a stroll towards the
river's bank, you may see the showy Pontederia brighten-
ing the fluviatile swamps with its azure blossoms. Close
to the water's edge the "Paku Grudu" (Cycas circinalis)
frequently grows luxuriantly, and a gigantic kind
of Burr-weed (Sparganium), whose yellow, compound
flowers, form quite a gay relief to the universal green
that encloses them on every side, and whose singular
fruits are sure to arrest the attention of the traveller. At
Bulungan, the forest on the banks of the river, was full of
leeches and Planaritf, some of them very handsomely
marked. The Leeches crawl upon the leaves and fasten
to the skin as you brush by the branches, but the
Planaria live upon the ground and are found sticking to
the dead damp leaves.

The Nibong Palm (Areca Tigillaria, Jack) so often
alluded to in the course of the work as one of the
principal trees which furnish posts, rafters, and floorings
of the houses in Borneo, perhaps demands here a brief
notice. The tree is surrounded at each girdle of growth
by a cincture of sharp thorns, which are more numerous
and needle-shaped as we approach the leaves ; the head

426 THE NIBONG PALM.

contains, like all other Palms, a soft spike about the hard-
ness of the core of the cabbage, which has hence induced
seamen and others to christen it the Cabbage-Palm, and
the Spaniards "Palma brava." It is certainly a most
delicious vegetable, and when boiled resembles Asparagus
or Kale; uncooked in its raw state, it furnishes fictitious
cucumber and an excellent salad. The tree contains an
immense quantity of useless pithy matter or newly-formed
wood of the interior, and it is therefore split into four or
more parts, and the soft parts cut away leaving only the
outer rind of older wood, which is of so flinty a nature as
to turn the edge of well-tempered tools. These narrow
slightly-curved slabs form the principal flooring of all
Malay houses. In England this hard, brittle, and beautiful
wood is frequently used for the sticks of umbrellas ; and
it is capable of being manufactured into very elegant
frames for pictures, or for any matters not requiring a
greater breadth than twenty-two inches by half an inch,
or three-quarters of an inch in thickness. The bows as
well as arrows of the Natives of New Guinea are generally
formed from this wood.

At Gunung Taboor, I first saw that singular commodity
collected by the Dyaks called vegetable-tallow, which is
an object of some commercial importance among the
Natives of the Indian Archipelago. It is a concrete oil
obtained from the expressed boiled fruit of a species of
Bassia, a Sapotaceous plant, either the B. longifolia of
Linnaeus or the B. butyracea of Roxburgh, and belong-
ing to the same genus as the Butter-tree described by
Mungo Park. It was brought to us in large round
flattened cakes of the consistence and colour of cheese,

VEGETABLE-TALLOW. 427

and also in cylindrical masses, which had assumed the
form of the bamboo joints into which it had been poured
when in a liquid state. A plant which grows in Java,
the Tetranthera Roxburgliii Nees, also has a fruit which
yields a kind of naturally-formed vegetable-tallow, out of
which the Chinese manufacture the candles with which
ships are sometimes supplied at Singapore and Hong-
Kong. To render these miserable apologies for candles
more stable, they cover them over with a thin coating of
wax. The principal advantage of the vegetable-tallow of
Borneo over that produced from animal fat is, that it re-
mains concrete under a tropical heat, whereas the other
becomes too soft to serve any useful purpose.

The Natives likewise collect aromatic barks of which
we obtained samples. One specimen appeared to have been
obtained from the Cinnamomum Sintoc, as it differs from
the bark of C. Culilawan, in having a flavour likewise
of cloves. The specific name of the latter plant which
yields the clove-bark of commerce, is derived from Kulit-
lawan, the native name of the bark; the specific name of
the former is probably taken from the Javanese name for
the same bark "Sendok." The bark generally called
cinnamon in Borneo, is from a species of Cassia; the
true Cinnamon-tree (C. zeylanicum), although grown in
Java, is a native of Ceylon.

One of the most remarkable botanical productions of
Borneo is the Tephrosia toxicaria, common at Kuching
and Serambo, the roots of which are used by the Malays
for the purpose of stupifying the fish of the rivers, and
which, by acting on the nervous system, causes them to
be more readily speared by the natives. This root might
serve as an excellent substitute for Digitalis.

428 SINGULAR MODE OF FISHING.

The Phyttanthm virosus is used in some parts of India
for the purpose of intoxicating fish, and in Jamaica they
employ the root of the Pisidia Erythrina for the same
purpose. At Sooloo, and in other parts, they select the
fruits of the Borassm Gomutus ; in the West Indies, the
berries of Sapindus saponaria, pounded and thrown into
water, are used with a similar intention ; and in Min-
danao the Barringtonia speciosa answers the same end.
Marsden, in his history of Sumatra, observes, that the
natives " steep the root of a certain climbing plant called
Tuba, of strong narcotic properties, in the water where
the fish are seen, which produces such an effect that they
become intoxicated, and to appearance dead, float on the
surface of the water, and are taken with the hand." The
Dyaks are very dextrous in spearing the poor stupified
fish which are under the influence of the weed. There
is another very singular mode of capturing the finny
tribes in Borneo. Floating ducks, made of light wood,
have a hook, properly baited, fastened to a line which
hangs from the under surface. A man in a small canoe
looks after the ducks at a distance, and when he sees one
begin to dive and plunge, he paddles up and secures the
fish. I have seen dozens of these dumb ducks floating
down the rivers with the stream. Sir George Staunton
says, that a somewhat similar mode of fishing is practised
in China ; and La Perouse, speaking of the Esquimaux,
observes, that " their mode of angling is very ingenious.
Each line is fastened to a seal's bladder, and set adrift.
One canoe has twelve or fifteen of them. When a fish is
caught, the canoe rows after it." Dixon, in his Voyage,
makes a similar remark regarding these people. He says,
" they bait their hook with a kind of fish called by the

INSECTS. 429

sailors ' squids/ and having sunk it to the bottom, they
fix a bladder to the end of the line, as a buoy."

Crawling on the leaves in the jungle was a very beauti-
ful insect, the larva of a species of Tesseratoma, entirely of
a delicate, semi-transparent, blood-red colour, with a flat-
tened body, and head furnished with a stinging proboscis,
which inflicts a somewhat painful wound. At Gunung
Taboor, I procured one of the loveliest species of Cassida
I have seen in any collection. The dark-green, convex
body was studded with round, brilliant, golden spots,
while the margin was transparent horn color, and reticu-
lated like a leaf. Among other rare and beautiful insects,
the Lucanus Tarandus of Thunberg flew at dusk into the
boat in which I was sleeping. It is a large stag-beetle,
with elongated jaws and bronze elytra, shaded with gold
and red, and covered all over with a velvety down. A
singular coal-black Coreus was also met with, covered
with golden hairs.

Returning with our liberated captives from Bulungan,
after having examined the reef on which the " Premier"
was wrecked, and where we obtained some interesting
crustaceous and molluscous animals, we touched at Lee-
geetan, on the coast of Borneo, for the purpose of watering
the ship, at which place I procured many rare insects, and
had a good opportunity of seeing some of the wildest
woodland scenery in Borneo. In the course of a little
trip at this port, I fell in with a scene so singular, that I
will endeavour to describe it.

On our right was a vast, sandy flat left by the retiring
tide, where several stout-limbed oyster-catchers were
screaming and running rapidly along, like small ostriches,

430 SCENERY.

while beyond was the ocean, hushed into a perfect calm.
On our left extended the huge forest trees, for miles
fringing " the beached margent of the sea." Entering a
thicket, we threaded the woody maze a little distance,
and came suddenly upon a large mangrove swamp, where
all the trees had, from some cause unknown to us,
perished, and remained, some erect like huge, blackened
skeletons arising from an oozy bed ; and others prostrate,
and lying in vast heaps, forming fit hiding places for the
huge Monitors and broad-bellied Lace-lizards that we
soon perceived abounded here. The entire surface of the
hardened mud, in other parts, was covered with CcritMum
palustre and the large black C. telescopium, while here and
there fragments of those bivalve Mollusks, that love the
brackish water, strewed the soil.

On the margin of this dried-up Lagoon, were heaps of
old decayed and moss-grown trunks, speckled with lichens
and sprouting with fungi, rotting piecemeal in the black
and slimy mud. Thousands of Gelasimi and other land-
loving crustaceans, bustled about the surface of the
ground, rushing into holes with the greatest trepidation,
but nevertheless snapping, as they retreated, their huge
single foot-claw, and thrusting it menacingly forth, when
they reached the aperture of their burrow. In many parts
of the yielding surface, well-beaten tracks were formed
by our dingy lacertine friends, the giant Hydrosauri;
and in other places, the soil was stamped with the foot-
marks of deer, and grooved by the snouts of wild boars.
The forest beyond was perfectly silent, and, sitting on
one of the tall and blasted trees, was a solitary white
heron, himself as motionless and silent as the rest of nature.

POISONOUS PLANTS A.ND SCENTED BEETLE. 431

While cutting wood in the forest not far from the
watering place, our seamen and carpenters suffered very
considerably from the virulent acrid sap of the Exccecaria
Agallocha, or a plant closely allied to it, which produced
violent itching and inflammation of the face, hands, and
wherever it came in contact. I remember, that near the
Morotabas entrance of the Sarawak river, the party sent
on shore to cut wood, were also much annoyed by the
acrid juice of a plant with a large, brownish, spherical
berry, and smooth shining leaves. Not being then in
flower, it was difficult to say to what genus it belonged,
but most probably it was the Stagmaria verniciflua of Dr.
Jack. Besides the chance of scorpion and snake-bites,
and the certainty of being punished by innumerable mus-
quitoes, a large species of Tabanus is very annoying to the
naturalist in these forests, alighting on the exposed parts
of the body, and producing a sharp bite; but the pain
however is momentary, and not so poisonous as that of
the mosquito.

Clinging to the flower-balls of a delicate-leaved Mimosa,
were numbers of splendid bronze-green beetles, of the
genus Aromia, which emitted such a powerful scent of
attar-of-roses around, as to impregnate the air for some
little distance. That showy looking insect Purpuricenus
(Eurycephalus) maxillosusQliv., or a closely allied species,
with black and red velvety elytra, was found clinging to
the bark of trees ; and, alighting on the leaves in sunny
spots, on the slightest alarm taking flight and soaring
high above the trees, was a splendid TJierates, a beetle of
the family of Cicindelidtf, remarkable for then* powers of
volitation. The species I obtained had large strong jaws,

432 REMARKABLE INSECTS.

enormous eyes, a wide head, beautiful dark burnished-
bronze elytra, and orange legs and mandibles. One spe-
cimen I captured, had just regaled himself with a fly, which
I allowed him to eat up, before I attempted to make him
a prisoner. He held the unfortunate dipterous insect,
which was of the size of an (Estrus, firmly with the dilated
tarsi of the fore feet, had cut off the head with his power-
ful mandibles, and was busily intent in consuming the
flesh of the inside of the thorax, shaking his prey occa-
sionally like a tiger, which these Cicindelidas most
assuredly represent in the insect-world. Also, on the
leaves, but totally unlike its volatile neighbour the The-
rates, was a species of Cassida, a pretty tortoise-shaped
beetle, with the elytra margined with bright golden
yellow, four dark blue spots at the angles, and the central
part of the back of a brown bronze, with deep red mark-
ings. A most extraordinary -looking hymenopterous in-
sect, belonging to the genus Stephanus, with a red head,
a black body very much elongated, light brown, semi-
opaque wings, enormous hind legs, and three long slender
stylets at the end of the tail, hovered steadily around the
trunks where the sunbeams penetrated, and seemed to
delight to crawl up and down the bark. During flight
it has a very remarkable appearance, reminding one some-
what of a heron on the wing, with its long legs awkwardly
stretched out behind. In the fresh-water pools I obtained
specimens of a large water-scorpion, near Nepa rubra,
more than two inches in length, with a brown body, and
blackish elytra. Its sting, the powers of which I unfor-
tunately experienced, is much more severe than that of
the Nepa cinerea we find in the ponds of Europe. A new

BIRBS OF BORNEO. 433

species of Gerris, with a dull red thorax margined with
black, and a dark line down the centre, with opaque black
wings, was running, in its peculiar jerking manner, on
the surface of the stagnant water. I was pleased to find
these aquatic insects, as both water beetles and water
lizards appear to be very scarce in Borneo, if we except
the Hydrosauri, which are not entirely aquatic. I never
came across, during the whole course of my wanderings,
with a single species of Salamandra or Triton, or among
insects with a Hydrous or Dyticus.

The woods of Leegeetan afford the large Hornbill
(Buceros Rhinoceros) ; a Kingfisher of considerable size
and splendid colouring (a species of Dacelo,} frequents
the river brinks. A beautiful Cypselus, with a rich green
metallic lustre along the back, soars high above the forest
trees ; while on the coast the Hirundo esculenta hovers
incessantly to and fro, uttering its sharp and peculiar cry.
A grey Heron perches on the lower boughs of the trees,
and delights to fish in the ponds, feeding on crabs and
frogs. A small sized Wood-pecker, and a large red-headed
species with black wings and back, arid a white belly,
climbs up and down the forest stems in sequestered
places. A black coloured bird, with two long feathers in
the tail, skips rarely in the trees from spray to spray. A
Cuculus, with a greenish-black back ; and a small bird,
with the feathers of the back and rump pilose and much
prolonged, probably a species of Chaunonotus, are also
found in the woods. In other parts of Borneo, I have
met with a Tody with a red and yellow head, and
another species with a black and yellow back, and salmon-
coloured breast ; a Thrush with a yellow back and black
VOL. ir. 2 F

434 ORIENTAL PIGEONS.

head, that utters a very sweet note among the Bamboo
groves and thickets; a handsome Pigeon, with a green
back and belly, and wings of reddish brown ; a black
Thrush, with a white abdomen ; and a splendid ultra-
marine blue bird, with the neck, and belly black ; a
land Rail, prettily marked ; a white-headed Falcon with
reddish brown wings; a large horned Owl, and the
minute Passerine species; the Griffin with a Falcon's
beak, is also sometimes met with ; and I have seen the
Crowned Eagle, the Cayenne Barbett, and species of
Lanius, Bubutus, Garulaa;, and Calorhamphus. The list
might easily be lengthened, were it at all necessary in a
short popular notice like this ; but long dry lists of orni-
thological nomenclature would not be likely to interest
the general reader. I may however offer a few words on
the famous swallow that supplies the Chinese markets
with nests, and pay a passing tribute to the extreme
beauty of the Pigeons of this part of the world. Many
of these belonging to the genus Vinago, are covered with
feathers of rich metallic hues ; in fact, the oriental Pigeons
are the most beautiful creatures imaginable. Their air is
full of softness, and their eyes of gentleness ; their motions
are all elegance, and their forms of the most graceful pro-
portions. The turn of the neck and the carriage of the
head are fraught with harmony; and the plaintive cooings
of their voices, issuing from the dead solitudes of sombre
woods, though somewhat mournful is soothing and
agreeable to the ear. Playful in their motions,
sportive in their caresses, they seem formed for love
and dalliance in the dense forests they animate and
adorn. The cooing of these birds in the tropics is

EDIBLE SWALLOWS'-NESTS. 435

somewhat different in sound from that of the Wood-
pigeon.

About the rocky parts of the coast of Borneo, the
Hirundo esculenta skims backwards and forwards all day
long, uttering its little cheerful chirp as it eagerly pursues
its insect prey. I have taken the nests in nearly every
state from the sides of shallow caves, where they adhere
in numbers to the walls, like so many watch-pockets.
The eggs are white, with a slight pinkish tinge, and are
generally two in number. The nests are either white,
red, or black, and the natives maintain that these are
built by three distinct species, with a white, red, and
black breast, but this is erroneous. The Malays assert
frequently, moreover, that the nests are formed from the
bodies of certain sea-snakes, but there is no doubt that
"agal-agal," a marine cellular plant, is the material
employed. The Chinese lanterns are made of netted
thread, smeared over with gum, produced by boiling down
this same plant, which, when dry, forms a firm, pellucid,
and elastic substitute for horn or glass. Other species of
Swallows, besides the Hirundo esculenta, employ the same
glutinous material in the construction of their nest ; but
it is always mixed up with grass and matted feathers, so
as to render the nests perfectly useless in a commercial
point of view.

Collecting the nests is often a very perilous operation,
as may be seen on reading the following extract from
Crawfurd's History of the Indian Archipelago. He is
describing one of the most productive caves in Java, those
of Karang-bolang, on the south coast of the island :—
" Here the caves are only to be approached by a perpen-

2 p2

436 HABITS OF CRABS.

dicular descent of many hundred feet, by ladders of
bamboo and rattan, over a sea rolling violently against
the rocks. When the mouth of the cavern is attained,
the perilous office of taking the nests must often be per-
formed with torch-light, by penetrating into recesses of
the rock, when the slightest trip would be instantly fatal
to the adventurers, who see nothing below them but the
turbulent surf making its way into the chasms of the
rock."*

Before taking leave of this part of Borneo, I must make
a few observations on the habits of certain crustaceans. On
tropical mudflats, I was always very much amused at the
multitudes of Crabs that take their pastime there, — those
active, predatory, rapacious busy-bodies, presenting forms
so anomalous, manners so strange, and motions so gro-
tesque. As soon as the water recedes from the shore on
the ebbing of the tide, and the large firm mudflats are
left exposed, myriads of crustaceans of every form and
colour issue from their various holes and hiding-places, to
enjoy the heat, to forage for their food, and to propagate
their kind. The males of many species, after looking
cautiously about them, stalk a few paces with their huge
single pincers raised in the air, which they snap frequently
together, producing a slight clicking sound, then rushing
eagerly towards their females, they seem to embrace with
their arms their smaller and more dingy paramours. The
salute is very brief, and is followed by the swift retreat of
the lady-crabs into their different habitations. These
belong chiefly to the burrowing Macrophtlialmi. Many
of the genera Sesarma, Gonoplax, and Grapsus, are how-

* Vol. iii., p. 433.

HABITS OF CRABS. 437

ever perceived equally well occupied. Creeping stealthily
upon these are larger and more formidable Crabs,
which come with sidelong steps towards their unwary
neighbours, chase, capture, tear, and finally consume
them. Others are content to forego their amorous
dalliance, and help themselves to worms and little
shell-fish, feeding alternately first with one hand and
then with the other. Many again lie languidly along
the mud, seeming very much to enjoy the genial rays
of the sun in listless indolence ; while others are watch-
ful at the mouths of holes, ready to pounce upon
the Jumping-fish and Squillse that swarm about the
mud, and which speedily disappear within their rapa-
cious jaws.

A very splendid species of Cardisoma, which I have
named C. Aspasia, inhabits the steep muddy banks at the
mouths of the rivers near this part of the coast, where it
forms deep cylindrical burrows. It is excessively wary,
retreating on the slightest noise into its subterranean
domicile, from whence it is not easily dislodged. It
appears to be less shy, however, as the evening advances,
and is probably nocturnal in its habits, like some of the
species of Ocypode. This lovely crustacean, nearly as
large as the adult edible crab, has a purple shell mar-
gined behind with buff, and feet and claws of a deli-
cate lilac.

The muddy banks of the Batang-Lupar, Sarawak,
and many other rivers of Borneo, are covered at low water
by numerous handsome species of Gelasimus, among the
number of which is an undescribed species which I have
named G. rwrulcns, from the beautiful blue colour of its

438 BLUE CRAB.

carapace. I have seen the black mud in many parts
assume quite a brilliant blue tinge during the heat of the
day, at low water, when these crustaceans come forth
to feed.

439

CHAPTER VIII.

LOO-CHOO— KOBEA— JAPAN.

Loo-Ckoo — Mandarins — Visit a Missionary — Gardens of the Temples-—
— Burial-ground — Tombs — Loo-Chooan females — Sheudi, the
capital — Palace of the Viceroy — State of religion — Acquainted
with Arms — Language — Money — Medicine — Korea — Physical
appearance of the Natives — Costume — Moral Character — Arms —
Boats — Punishments — An Anecdote — Beacon-fires — Island of
Q-uelpart — Plants — Stone Images — Vegetation — Scenery —
Birds — Fishes — Insects — Habits of Spiders — Molluscous Animals
— Radiata — Sponges — Sama-Sana — Scenery — Vegetation — In-
sects — An Earthquake — Koumi — Scenery — Birds — Beetles —
Grasshoppers — Japan — Physical appearance of the Japanese —
Costume — -Weapons — Shells — Volcanic Archipelago— Inhabitants.

ON the 22nd of August, 1845, in company with Mr.
Corbett, of the Royalist, I landed at some distance from
our anchorage in Napa-Kiang harbour, on the other side
of the village of Po-tsang, (or Pot-soong, as Beechey and
others write it,) a small straggling hamlet full of temples,
tombs, banyan trees, and salt-pans, with a neat, well-
built little bridge, and a very long causeway. We were
received on the beach by a large concourse of the
natives, and as soon as we had disembarked, a venerable
and good-natured mandarin of the second class, took us
by the hand, and kindly led us towards the village. He
spoke to us in broken English, asking us how we did ;

440 GARDENS 01' THE TEMPLES.

what were our ages, &c. We made him understand that
we wished to proceed to the residence of a French Mis-
sionary, who was living some little distance off, in one of
the Joss-houses, occupied by the people of the Alceste at
a former period. He comprehended in a moment, and
accordingly most politely made us a bow, and led the
way. Our road lay through very pleasant woods, where
the Bamboo and Acacia, the Areca, Banyan and Cycas
trees, formed an agreeable shade. In the temple, occu-
pied by the Missionary, were the usual emblems of the
Roman-Catholic Church, and walking about the ground,
were numerous Bonzes, or priests of Buddha, apparently
very poor and low in the grade of society. One old gen-
tleman seemed very much disgusted with our Catholic
friend, pointing with scorn at the parade of paintings and
crucifixes made by the good Father. The coadjutor in
the labour of this French gentleman, was a young Chinese,
educated at the Jesuit College at Penang, who, as the
Padre assured us, could converse well in Latin, Portu-
guese, French, Chinese, and Cochin-Chinese. The gar-
dens of these temples are neatly and tastefully laid out,
and among the flowers in the parterres I noticed the
beautiful crimson blossoms of the Hibiscus Eosa-Sinensis,
with the petals of which the Chinese black their shoes ;
the Prince's feathers (Amaranthus caudatus,) the Gom-
phrena globosa, and some very fine Cockscombs (Celosia
coccinea,} their thousands of brilliant shining bracts
glittering in the sun. These gardens and temples,
occupied by the officers and crew of the Alceste, are
rendered doubly interesting by the graphic and pleasing
accounts of Hall and M'Leod. They are quiet, lonely,

LOO-CHOOAN WOMEN. 441

and secluded, and ornamented with beautiful walks and
numerous trees. We rambled on among the tombs of the
Loo-Chooans, which form one vast cemetery or city of the
dead, and which from our anchorage, appeared as large and
conspicuous as the living city of Napa. The tombs are
all well-preserved, nicely chunammed, and of a dazzling
whiteness. The tornbs of strangers, however, are of an
oblong shape, not formed like a horse-shoe as are those
of the natives, and are embowered in trees ; among them
I observed the grave of the man who died belonging to
the Alceste. Their respect for the dead certainly ap-
pears to be very great, and I could not help noticing the
solemn demeanour of the old Chief as he pointed out to
us the grave of our countryman. Having passed through
an archway, we came suddenly upon a square in which
were congregated many hundred women, each with a
small basket, bargaining for rice and other necessaries,
and laughing, chattering, and cheapening in the most
discordant and emphatic manner. It was market-day
among the good people of Po-tsang. All these lively and
energetic females belonged to the lower orders, and re-
joiced in countenances by no means attractive; the old
hags, on the contrary, were about the most hideous objects
I have seen in the course of my travels. An occasional
exception to this ungracious and not-at-all-gallant picture,
might be found in the person of a young girl or mar-
riageable maiden, and the little brown babies were
decidedly very funny. Proceeding on our walk, we
arrived at the summit of a hill, from which elevated posi-
tion we obtained an excellent view of Sheudi or Shui, the
extensive and populous capital of the Great-Loo-Choo.

442 IDOLS.

It is very delightfully situated in the bosom of a wooded
and verdant valley, and appears to be well and regularly
built. At some little distance from the city, we noticed
the Prince's palace, a large square building surrounded
by a high wall. We were informed that the Prince, or
probably Viceroy appointed by the Japanese, is quite a
prisoner in this royal abode, never being allowed to travel
beyond the precincts of his enchanted castle. Near
Abbey Point, in the rude cavernous recess of a rock, we
saw the image of the Goddess " Kwan-yan," called by
Beechey, the Goddess of Mercy, and of which he has
given a representation in his work. The natives did not
seem, however, to evince much awe or reverence as they
passed this favourite deity ; indeed Gutzlaff observes that
"they disavow practical idolatry because their reason dis-
approves the theory; yet they do in fact persevere in their
unreasonable worship." There are various other idols in
other parts of the island, some formed of wood, and many
carved out of stone. La Perouse, who visited these
people, observes, speaking of the inhabitants of Kumi,
that "each had a dagger, the hilt of which was gold."
Beechey has a variety of arguments to prove they were
formerly acquainted with the use of arms, and, in con-
nexion with the same question, Gutzlaff observes: "Upon
inquiring, we found that they had among them the same
severe punishment as at Korea ; that they possessed arms
likewise, but are averse to use them." Both Hall and
M'Leod, on the other hand, aver that these people are
totally unacquainted with the use of arms. Thinking to
throw a little light on the subject, I enquired casually of
A- sung, our Chinese interpreter, who was much among

LANGUAGE. 443

them, what they would do if they were attacked by an
enemy, when he informed me that they had large stores
of arms which he had seen, shields, spears, and bows and
arrows, but that they wish to keep the knowledge of their
existence in the island, a secret, even from their own
people. Beechey remarks, that "the inhabitants of Loo-
Choo have no written character in use, which can
properly be called their own, but that they express them-
selves in that which is strictly Chinese." They have not
preserved, even if they ever possessed in their early state,
any original written language, but they have adopted that
of Japan. Both the French Missionary and A-sung, our
interpreter, assured me that it was strictly Japanese. The
Loo-Chooans, certainly must originally have been a colony
from Japan, although in the present day they disclaim all
connexion or acquaintance with that empire. In a con-
versation with Gutzlaff, they even affirmed that three
Junks from Satsuma in Japan had been driven hither by
stress of weather. During our visit, there were numerous
Japanese vessels lying in the harbour, no doubt tribute
Junks. The Catholic Priest informed me that he had
not succeeded in making a single convert, and though his
tenets were smiled at as being too absurd for credence,
yet he was treated with the greatest respect, mingled,
however, with a little jealousy. The higher classes are
probably very well contented with the precepts of Confu-
cius, and the lower with the doctrines of Buddha, both
systems having numerous proselytes among the Loo-
Chooans. Many, however, even among the most wealthy
and intelligent, are free-thinkers, and seem to trouble
themselves very little about superstition in any form.

444 THE KOREANS.

They are said to be unacquainted with the use of money,
though they received dollars in payment for a horse, pigs,
and several descriptions of provisions, from the Captain
and some of the officers of our ship; and Gutzlaff says,
that "the Chinese tael and cash are current among them,
but very scarce." While staying here, the most celebrated
native doctor of Napa treated A-sung for rheumatic pains,
with hot cataplasms, made of the recent aromatic leaves
of the Sansjo (Xanthoxylon piper itum} and, as he informed
me, with considerable benefit. The Ginseng (Panax
quinquefoliuni) is held in as much repute here as it is in
China.

During this year, the Samarang was engaged in sur-
veying the large island of Quelpart, and the numerous
group of smaller islands constituting the Korean Archi-
pelago ; and as our opportunities of examining some of
the more interesting ethnographical peculiarities of the
singular people inhabiting this little-known region of the
globe were rather numerous, I shall here offer a slight
sketch of those manners and customs, which, at the time,
were regarded by me as worthy of note, and as such com-
mitted to paper for the amusement of friends at home.

The Koorai or Koreans are said to have come originally
from a country to the northward of Pe-tche-li, and al-
though now forming a separate nation, governed by a
king, they are, in a measure, tributary to China, as before
the conquest of Korea by the Chinese, they were the
subjects of the Japanese empire. In personal appearance,
they resemble the natives of Siberia and Tartary. Like
most Mongolians they have a tawny skin, prominent
cheek-bones, some obliquity of the eyes ; a rather promi-

PHYSICAL APPEARANCE. 445

nent nose, thick at its base, and wide at the nostrils ;
strong, well-developed jaws, and long, lank, straight, black
hair ; but like some tribes of northern Asia, their beard
is tolerably thick, and their eye-brows bushy. Their
physiognomy is less effeminate than that of southern
races, their average stature being greater, their bearing
bolder, their Tartar-like features more prominent and
striking, and their beards and moustaches being frequently
long and flowing. One of the most striking peculiarities
which all who have seen them have noticed, is the method
of confining the hair of the head in a delicate network,
beautifully formed of a fine material resembling Coir, and
of a glossy black colour. The hair being all drawn up-
wards towards the crown of the head, is tied at the
summit in a neat and rather graceful topknot, without
the help however of pins, as at Loo-Choo and the
Mei'a-co-shimahs. The young unmarried men and boys,
however, have the hair parted in the middle, gathered
behind, and descending in two long plaited tails, that hang
down the back somewhat in the fashion of those of the
sons of Han. Frequently a white band of bark or leaf
is worn across the forehead, to restrain the loose and
straggling hairs.

Their costume, though formed of a uniform peculiar
to China, Japan, and all this part of the world, varies
considerably from all other nations in unessential details.
The Mandarins, or chiefs of the better class, wear long
gowns or mantles, with loose hanging sleeves, having red
or green cuffs. These robes are often of silk stuff, and
have a very pleasing and picturesque appearance. Their
pantaloons hang in a rather loose bag below the knee,

446 COSTUME.

their gaiters or socks are of white linen cloth, and their
neat leathern shoes are very much pointed and turned up
at the toes. Their hats are of enormous size, with very
broad brims, and are of a slight and slender texture, being
ingeniously made of a net- work of bamboo, stained black.
The crown is very peculiar, high, and conical, and two
or three peacock's feathers appended to a curved ivory
ball on the pointed apex, hang gracefully over the capa-
cious brim. The hats of the Mandarins are usually fur-
nished with strings of large amber beads, to fasten them
under the chin. An under tunic of white, and a broad
silken sash, usually complete the dress of these grandees.
They generally carry, moreover, a small piece of black
bamboo, with a coloured riband twisted spirally round it,
which is their wand of office, and on which their rank is
written. The soldiers wear a plaited string from the
crown of their hats, with a quantity of red horse-hair
depending from it at the hind part of the brim. In
winter time, some of the lower orders wear huge fur
caps, made of wolf or lynx skin ; and the heads of others
are covered with enormous brown or black sombreros,
fashioned from a kind of felt, while many again affect
huge cone-shaped hats, covered with painted oiled paper.
Serfs and husbandmen are very loosely clad, and go about
with the legs and fore-arms bare, and wear grass sandles
on their feet. Both men and boys have a habit of carry-
ing long staves, which gives them an appearance, when
seen at a distance, of being armed with spears. The
females we saw were very ugly, very dirty, and much
more degraded in appearance than the men.

The natives of Korea, or more properly of Chaou-Seen,

MORAL CHARACTER. 447

are but little advanced in civilization, owing doubtless to
the repugnance they have to hold any intercourse with
other nations, not even their neighbours, the Chinese,
being permitted to settle in their territory, and their
trade with that country and with Japan and Tartary
is exceedingly limited. They invariably repulsed us
in the same spirit on our attempting to invade the sanc-
tity of their towns and villages, not even allowing us
to enter within the walls of their cities. With the
same exclusive feeling and jealous alarm of foreigners,
they also evinced a great objection to receive anything
from us as presents. During our surveying duties, where
it was indispensably necessary to land and erect marks,
they frequently showed symptoms of hostility, and when
not opposed in a determined manner, were inclined to
assume a hectoring demeanour, threatening and com-
manding us to retreat; but we always found that their
courage consisted chiefly in a system of intimidation.
They are, however, very good-humoured, and seem to
enjoy anything like a joke exceedingly. All appear to be
passionately fond of spirituous liquors, nor can I say much
for their morality of conduct. They are great smokers,
carrying continually in their hands a long-stemmed pipe,
with a diminutive brass bowl, which they fill and empty
at brief intervals.*

* The pipes of the Indo-Chinese races, including the Tartars, Chi-
nese, Koreans, and Japanese, are provided with a small metallic bowl,
and usually a long bamboo stem, for with persons who are in the habit
of smoking at short intervals all day long, a large bowl would be inad-
missible. By inhaling but a pinch of tobacco on one occasion, they
extend the narcotising influence of a larger pipe over a greater space of
time. Nations that smoke larger pipes adopt some other material for
the bowls, as metal would become too hot -. thus the Chibook of

448 ARMS AND BOATS.

Their arms consist of bows and arrows, spears, and a
few rude matchlocks, constructed in the Chinese fashion;
and in some of their walled cities they have forts strongly
built of stone, and mounting guns. When they wish to
intimidate their enemies, and make a great show of
martial power, they collect all the heroes, with their
swords and spears, and assemble by hundreds, mingling
their shouts with the discordant sounds of gongs, trum-
pets, and a harsh shrill instrument resembling in noise
the bagpipes. I have heard some among them, however,
play very plaintive melodies on the flute, with much taste
and proficiency.

They do not appear to be a maritime people, their boats
being neither large nor numerous. As in China and
Japan, the use of oars is unknown among the Koreans,
the boats being always propelled by means of sculls, the
boatmen standing over the loom, and bending his body
backwards and forwards. I have seen as many as ten

Turkey is made of " Samian ware," a kind of red-brown clay ; the
Meerschaum of Germany is formed of a yellowish-white steatite ; the
pipe of Holland is of porcelain, and that of our own island of unglazed
clay. Among the Bashee group, and more particularly on the island of
Ibayat, the natives form very elegant and commodious pipes from dif-
ferent species of shells, the columella and septa of the convolutions
being broken down, and a short ebony stem inserted into a hole at the
apex of the spire. A pipe of this manufacture, in my possession, is
formed from the Mitra papalis, and I have seen others made out of
Mitra episcopalis and of Cerithium and Terebra. At the Cape of Good
Hope I procured some pipe-bowls, made by the Kaffirs, from a black
and from a green stone, but without sculpture. Old Indian pipes have
been found in America also fashioned out of green stone. The sailors
belonging to the Samarang having lost their pipes in the Sarawak river,
set to and in a very little while manufactured excellent pipes from
different sized internodes of the bamboos that grew around them.

CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES. 449

men working at one enormous long scull. For landing
in the surf and among the rocks they employ a sort of
catamaran or raft, with an elevated platform large enough
to contain eight or ten persons, which is sculled in the
manner of a boat. In some instances they employed
these rafts to destroy our surveying marks, when our
boats, giving chase, would pursue and capture them, often
giving rise to very laughable scenes "When a man be-
comes troublesome or offends in any way, he is brought
before the chief Mandarins, who first abuse him, and then
order him to be seized and thrown down, when he receives
a certain number of severe blows with a flat baton (formed
like an oar and about six feet long), on the bare hams.
Many carry about them severe traces of this bastinado
practice in the forms of scars and ulcers.

On our approach to a village, the poor frightened inha-
bitants first drive away all their bullocks beyond the
mountains, generally, however, leaving one of the leanest
behind as a tempting lure. This being effected, they then
assemble in crowds upon all the highest hill tops, until
they are assured of our pacific intentions, when they
cautiously descend and approach, and begin curiously to
examine our persons, admiring the fine texture of our
linen, wondering at our gold bands and buttons, and still
more at the pinkish tinge of our skins, and the brown
colour of our hair. On one occasion we landed in a beau-
tiful little bay where there was a village, and along the
shore a wood of large-sized fir-trees. By an offer of cloth
and sweet wine the Captain obtained permission to cut
down some of them ; but no sooner did the carpenters
lay the axe to the base of one of the finest, than an old

VOL. n. 2 G

450 ISLAND OF QUELPART.

man interposed, with gesticulations and tears in his eyes
making us signs that the trees were his. On our men
proceeding in their work, the poor fellow grew quite
frantic, clasping now the trunks of his beloved trees, and
then the knees of those who were felling them, using
every possible sign and gesture to save his firs from de-
struction. He was however eventually pacified by bottles
of sweet wine.

The same custom occurs along the coast of Korea, as
among the Malays, namely, lighting beacon fires on the
summits of the hills and projecting points of land, to in-
dicate the movements of a supposed enemy. La Perouse
alludes to the same procedure where he says: "It is pro-
bable we occasioned some alarm on the coast of Korea, for
in the afternoon we perceived fires lighted on all the points."

The large island of Quelpart or Quelpoert, which we
circumnavigated and surveyed in the boats, is the most
southern island of the Korean Archipelago. The proper
name is the same as that of Korea, namely, "Chaou-Seen,"
and it is somewhat remarkable that the name of the
principal city, King-Ka-Tou, is the same as that of the
peninsula, Quelpart may be said to be an oval iron-
bound island, covered with innumerable conical moun-
tains, topped in many instances by extinct volcanic craters,
and all bowing down before one vast and towering giant,
whose foot is planted in the centre of the island, and whose
head is lost in clouds. The whole surface, including the
plains and vallies between the hills and even that of the
mountain-flanks, is carefully, richly, and most beautifully
cultivated and covered with a pleasing verdant vegetation,
laid out in fields divided by neat walls made of piled-up

SCENERY OF QUELPART. 451

stones. It is surrounded on all sides by " black waves,
bare crags, and banks of stone," covered with limpets and
Chitons, and tenanted by troops of dusky cormorants. As
we coasted along the land, crowds of wondering natives
appeared on every hill-top, staring at the adventurous
strangers who had come to visit their far distant country,
and perchance disturb the peaceful tenor of their lives. In
many parts along the coast the rocks are very lofty, and
quite perpendicular, and are adorned in many instances
with splendid waterfalls, —

" Where a wild stream with headlong shock
Comes brawling down its bed of rock
To mingle with the main."

In one part only was the coast level, and huge heaps of
weeds lay along the shore. Numbers of meagre Cormo-
rants sat in long black rows upon the stones ; flocks
of dappled wild Ducks were feeding at the margin of the
water ; a species of Tern, with a long black crest, was
hovering above the surf, and at some distance from the
shore were hundreds of large white Gulls, sweeping the
surface of the sea.

A large and beautiful open blue Campanula was very
conspicuous in many parts, as were also the handsome
yellow Liliaceous plants allied to Hemerocattis disticha and
H. fava, which grew chiefly on acclivities, and the large
and showy Tiger-lily (Lilium monadelphum}. There was
also a small and pretty Hyacinth with delicate blue blos-
soms; two or three species of Juniper, many of Oak,
three of Fir, several of Thuja, two kinds of Hazel, and
one of Myrtle. The Fumitory, the Lychnis, the wild

Onion and Silver- weed were common everywhere. La

•> /. o

A/ U <w

452 HOUSES OP THE KOREANS.

Perouse speaking of Quelpart, observes: "Unfortunately
the island belongs to a people to whom all intercourse
with strangers is prohibited, and who retain in slavery all
who have the misfortune to be wrecked on their shores.
Some of the Dutch sailors of the ' Sparrow-hawk/ after a
captivity of eighteen years, during which they had received
severe bastinadoes, found means to steal away a bark and
get to Japan, whence they reached Batavia, and at length
Amsterdam." He observes, moreover, "this island which
is known to Europeans only by the loss of the Dutch ship
'Sparrow-hawk' in 1635, was at that time under the do-
minion of the king of Korea." Mr. Gutzlaff, who visited
some of the islands of the Korean Archipelago, with much
truth makes the following regretful remark: — "Walking,"
he says, "over these fertile islands, beholding the most
beautiful flowers everywhere growing wild, and the vine
creeping among weeds and bushes, we accuse the 'lord of
nature,' man, of shameful neglect; for he could have
changed this wilderness into an Eden."

In many parts of the Archipelago, the hamlets and
houses of the more wealthy members of the population
are delightfully situated, being frequently embosomed
in groves of umbrageous trees with running rivulets
beside them, and all around and towering up behind,
gently swelling hills covered with verdure, and with
herds of oxen grazing; and when placed near the sea-side,
there is generally a fishing-wear close at hand. Their
houses consist of a sitting-room, a sleeping- apartment,
and a shed used for culinary purposes, where are observed
large earthern vessels for holding rice and water. In
their towns are frequently seen rudely carved stone-

STONE IMAGES. 453

images, and it may be observed that a very striking
similarity exists between these graven boundary stones of
the cities of Quelpart, and the Hermae of the ancient
Greeks, and the Termini, or Lapides Terminales, of the
Romans. The earliest form in which the divinities of
classic mythology were represented, was an unhewn stone,
which afterwards assumed the modification of a square
block, and subsequently grew, when the art of Sculpture
became more elaborate and refined, into a polished
pedestal, surmounted by the head of the favourite deity.
These were placed in the front of temples, and other
public buildings, and at the corners of streets and roads,
and frequently received the tribute of divine honours.
Whether these^Korean Hermae were regarded with reli-
gious veneration by the inhabitants of Quelpart, I am
unable to state, but I may point out the remarkable fact
of the existence of similar sculptured posts in the Dyak
villages of the island of Borneo, where they occupy the
same relative positions and probably serve the same pur-
pose. Lieut. Kolf, in his Voyages of the 'Dourg,' a
Dutch Brig of war, states that among the Arafuras
inhabiting the Ami islands, one of his officers found "an
image rudely formed of wood, together with a post on
which different figures such as snakes, lizards, crocodiles,
and human forms were carved, and which the owner stated
to be intended for preserving the house from evil spirits."
Crawfurd, in his history of the Indian Archipelago,
alludes to the existence of images of a similar nature in
Java: "In the least civilised parts of the island, as the
mountains of the Sundas, and particularly the eastern
province of Banyuwangi, there are found a variety of

454 SCENERY AND VEGETATION.

images extremely rude and ill -fashioned, and which, fre-
quently, by the extensive decomposition which their
surfaces have undergone, appear of greater antiquity than
those already described. These are, in ah1 probability,
representations of the local objects of worship among the
Javanese, before they adopted Hinduism, and which pro-
bably, as is still the case in Bali, continued to receive
some share of their adoration, after that event." The
appearance of the basaltic columns that adorn the
perpendicular sides of many of the islands was very grand
and imposing, simulating in several instances ruined
monasteries, old time-worn buildings, and picturesque
cathedrals, with high fretted pinnacles,

" rocks sublime

To human art a sportive semblance bore,
And yellow lichens coloured all the clime,
Like moonlit battlements and towers decayed by time."

On the rugged acclivities of several steep, rocky islets,
hundreds of Stone-flowers, as the sailors call them,
(Lycopodium lepidophyttum,} were expanding their rose-like
heads in every direction, and the grey summits were often
garlanded with graceful hanging festoons formed of the
wild vine and various other climbers.

Pines of several species, oaks, maples, rhododendrons,
brambles, azaleas, roses, violets, camellias, myrtles, mul-
berries, junipers, eugenias, mallows, sages, hypericums,
asters, gnathaliums, and hundreds of other plants are
observed in these islands; the parasitic Cassythis filiformis
is found clinging to the low bushes, and weaving them
together in an almost impervious mass; the larch and the
willow, the Ficus tinctoria and the Diospyros, the Bamboo

KOREAN GRAVES. 455

and the Cycas are spread abundantly over every part; a
few labiate and scrophulariaceous plants were visible, and
several species of Chenopodium and Asclepias were com-
mon everywhere. Grasses and compound flowers were
not very numerous, but I observed a pretty good sprink-
ling of Cryptogamia, especially among the ferns and
lichens. On the sides of some tombs on a little island
near Quelpart, a species of hymenopterous insect of the
family Eumenidce builds a neat hemispherical nest of the
size of a filbert, composed of clay and comminuted grass
made into a kind of mortar; the interior is lined with a
smooth polished plaster, and contains a single larva with
the body slightly bent upon itself.

On one small island where we watered ship, there were
fields of Tiger-lilies, and in another part barley was grow-
ing, and clumps of dark-green pine-trees overhung the
precipitous side where masses of lichen-stained rocks lay
crowded and jumbled together. The whole surface of
the island was covered with huge boulders and loose
stones overgrown with vegetation. In one part was a
large square enclosure with low solid walls of piled-up
stones, containing the graves of two individuals, known as
such by the most grotesque tombstones I ever saw in my
life. As the sun was shining brightly and the day very
warm, insects were numerous, more especially the Diptera,
which were far more brilliant and in larger numbers than
I had anywhere seen, even in the tropics;

"these little bright-eyed things,
That float about the air on azure wings,"

were pitching on the leaves, whirling round the flowers,

456 SCENERY.

and hovering gaily about the bare, sunny sides of the
big stones, with the greatest vivacity, imparting much
liveliness to the entire scene. In another part of this
pretty islet, however, the appearance of affairs became
slightly changed, and this occurred in a dull swampy
morass where huge reeds grew, and where, as you stooped
down and looked curiously, as I did, among their tall,
slender culms, dozens of lurid-looking vipers might
be seen trailing their slow length along the surface
of the ground, and winding their sinuous way quietly
into the dull distance of the pigmy forest. It was in truth
a noisome place, "redolent," as Dickens would say, " of
all sorts of slabby, clammy, creeping and uncomfortable
life." Frogs, however, towards the evening were numerous
and cheerful, and the glow-worms lighted up their tiny
lamps, but still the gloom of that dark spot where the
vipers so abounded continued for some time to haunt
my mind. It seemed to be a scene such as Spencer must
have presented to himself, when he described in his
"Faerie Queen e " the subsidence of the waters of the
Nile after the fertile slime, according to his ideas of the
spontaneous generation of animals, had covered the plains:

" wherein there breed

Ten thousand kinds of creatures, partly male,
And partly female, of his fruitful seed;
Such ugly monstrous shapes elsewhere may no man reed."

In some parts of Korea the land exhibits the appearance
of parks and meadows, with clumps of firs and other trees,
among which may be noticed the oak. The Vitis Indica
is seen trailing among heaps of stones ; the Composite
begin to appear, among which may be noticed a Coreopsis

BIRDS OF KOREA. 457

and an Aster; a few Cacti mingled with Sedums, aromatic
Labiatae and Scrophularinetf, and here and there a Cru-
ciferous plant, caused the vegetation to assume somewhat
the appearance of what we are accustomed to see in
Europe, but strangely mingled with such tropical forms
as Euphorbiacete, Leguminosae, Ehizophora Mangle, and
Hibiscus tiliacus.

The scenery of these islands reminds one very much of
our own woodland haunts ; for, when the sky is bright,
and the sun is powerful on the ground, the retired dells,
and plains, and shady nooks are instinct with life.
Gaudily-tinted butterflies sport around, feathered warblers
twitter in the trees, and crowds of insects spin about the
flowers. Among the birds, " Great Nature's happy com-
moners," were seen the modest Pigeon, cowering in some
deep recess ; the Flycatcher and the Butcher-bird, busily
intent on prey ; the showy Woodpecker, fluttering in its
pride, and clinging to the boughs in every kind of fan-
tastic attitude. Troops of white, long-necked Herons
ranged themselves along the padi-fields, greedy after frogs;
nor were " lingering notes of sylvan music" wanting, as
the evening drew on apace ; a bird with a note like the
nightingale, and a species of Thrush, warbled very pret-
tily/ and at early dawn, the Lark, that glorious ininstrel-
bird, sang loud and joyous. Many other birds, well known
in England, were busy in affairs of love. The Raven sat
quietly perched upon the stunted trees, or croaking as he
sailed familiarly around us; the Wren, the Sparrow, and the
Blackbird were common in the thickets ; the King-
fisher glided by the narrow brooks ; the Swift and the
Swallow clung to the rocky cliffs, or wheeled in circles

458 FISHES.

through the air ; the Cormorant sat grave and judge-like
on the coral reefs ; the Sea-gull screamed about the ripple
of the tide ; and Ducks and Divers were disporting them-
selves on the waters of the bays. Most of these, however,
were of different species from those that inhabit the coun-
tries of Europe. When I first saw the Wren in this far-
off region, it instantly recalled scenes familiar to me in
childhood by the mere force of association, for certain
animals are always connected in our minds with peculiar
haunts and localities. We never think of the Chamois,
but we fancy him clinging to the cliff; of the Antelope,
but we imagine her bounding across the plain ; of the
Tiger, but we ruminate on drear and lonely jungles ; of
the Wolf, but we dream of forest gloom ; or the Hyaena,
but we picture to ourselves grave-yards and desolate burial
places. The Spoonbill, the Quail, the Curlew, the Tit-
mouse, the Wagtail, and the Teal, are also met with in
the Korean Archipelago.

I have but few words to say with reference to the fishes
of this group, the habits and economy of these scaly deni-
zens of the deep continuing to remain almost a sealed
volume even to the Naturalist. Solitary and retiring, they
elude the scrutiny of curious man in the vast regions of
old "ocean's grey and melancholy waste," or when "but
dimly seen" up rivers and in shallow bays, or playing
among the coral reefs, such is in general the rapidity of
their movements, that the most eager scientific eye cannot
trace the nature of their proceedings.

The fishes of the Eastern Seas glitter with gold and
silver, their sides are marked, banded and spotted with
the most vivid colours, and as they cleave the transparent

INSECTS. 459

water round the coral reefs, sporting playfully or resting
motionless on their vibrating pectorals, they fascinate the
eye fully as much as the large gaudily-coloured Lepidoptera
do upon the land.

Among the Islands of the Korean Archipelago the chil-
dren use the dried spiral eggs of a species of Skate, or
some other cartilaginous fish, as rattles, having first intro-
duced a few small pebbles to assist in making a noise.
Beautiful azure Serrani and party-coloured Scari people
the calm waters within the coral reefs. Thousands of
other rock-fish are also met with in every possible variety
of colour. One species swims in shoals, and is of the
deepest and most brilliant ultramarine blue ; others are
vivid yellow, while many again are striped, banded, or
furnished with crimson tails or bright green fins, remind-
ing one of the fish Milton alludes to, which

" show to the sun
Their waved coats dropp'd with gold."

Various species of Carassus, Coboeta, Lenciscus, and other
genera, were observed by us among the islands.

The Entomology of these islands doubtless is very rich
in new species. The large black and white butterfly Histia
Leuconome is common both among the Korean Archipelago
and in the Meia-co-shimah group. It wanders lazily along
on heavy flapping wings, a little above the low trees, in
shady places. On thistle-heads an elongated polished
green Cerambyx is seen, which diffuses a very powerful
odour of attar of roses, like the agreeable perfume emitted
by the Cerambyx rosalia of the Pyrenees. Another very
common beetle is the Pristonocerm cceruleipcnnis, a beau-
tiful blue insect with a yellow head ; while on the ground,

460 INSECTS.

in shady places, a splendid new species of Carabidse (Ca-
rabus monilifer, Tatum,*) is met with in considerable
bundance. Dull green Cetoniida are also numerous
among the grassy parts of the islands ; and a species of
Passalus is found among the dried Algae along the strand.
In the evening Lampyridce and several species of Stag-
beetles (Lucani) fly about in company with Geotrupes
and Apliodii. Hundreds of the long-horned, beautiful,
little Adelce, day-flying Moths, with wings that in
glossiness and brilliancy resemble burnished steel,
were flying in companies of thirty and forty in rapidly
revolving circles above the low bushes, thus disporting
themselves in the heat of the noon-day sun, contrary to
the usual custom of nocturnal Lepidoptera. Some other
insects, as (Ecocophorts, Sesiidce, or diurnal humming-
bird-Hawkmoths, and various Uraniidce have the same
habits. Flying heavily about the lower bushes, or cling-
ing to the stalks of the tall grass, were several species of
Trochilium, some very handsomely marked, and others
apparently similar to those of Europe. A species of Ear-
wig, very closely allied to our Forficula auricularia, but
somewhat larger, was observed to be common among the
dead leaves that cover the ground in the pine-woods ; and
here the huge Dynastida and Onthophagi of the tropics
seemed to have given place to the numerous sub-genera of
the GeotrupidfS of more temperate regions, and I began
to recognise many forms belonging to this extensive family
once familiar to my eye in England. A Spider, belonging
to the genus Attus, was observed by me among the
thousands of dead Tmncatella, that occupy the holes and

* Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. vol. xx, p. 15.

HABITS OF SPIDERS. 461

corners of the rocks in every part of these islands, which
forms a convenient abode in these small shells, lining
them carefully with a fine silken tapetum. Near the sea-
coast, a minute species of Pagurus was found occupying
these little truncated univalve shells, crawling about by
thousands. Our spider, however, is unable to move about
with its borrowed house in the manner of those pirate
crabs, but either sits sedentary in its den, or ventures
forth at intervals on its predatory hunting excursions.

Among the rocks of a small islet near Quelpart, the
largest of the Korean islands, there is a species of Spider
which forms a very ingenious dwelling, which may be
compared to that of the Swallow, whose nest affords such
an important article in the gastronomy of wealthy Man-
darins, (the Hirundo esculenta,} but adhering to the rough
surface of the rock in a reversed position, resembling a
watch-pocket upside down. It is composed of a substan-
tially-woven silky material, and firmly secured by means
of a glutinous secretion. The ingenious little builder and
proprietor of this strange castle in the air, lets himself
down by a rope-ladder, or, to speak less fancifully, by a
fine spun web, which he manufactures for the purpose out
of the substance of his body as required, he himself serv-
ing the purpose of a weight ; " deducit stamina, ipso se
pondere usus," as Pliny observes, when treating on these
animals in his chapter " De Araneis." In the eaves of
the thatched houses of the Koreans, I observed that a
large black-coloured species of hymenopterous insect forms
long cylindrical holes, lined with comminuted straw made
into a kind of mortar by being mixed with a glutinous
secretion ; at the bottom of this tube the mother deposits

462 INSECTS.

her eggs, which are shut out from any external communi-
cation by means of a thin partition made of a substance
resembling " papier mache." Another Wasp constructs
a mud hut for its future progeny against the sides of the
walls, having a small round perforation on the lower part,
which serves as a door.

A milk thistle with long spiny leaves, is rather common
on some of the islands of the Korean Archipelago, on the
large purple flowers of which I frequently found one or
two specimens of a species of Aromia, which diffuses a
powerful odour of attar of roses. In markings it ap-
proaches to the Polyzomis bifasciatus, but differs from it
in having the thorax spined and in other characters.
Among other insects met with by me in these islands,
were a dark burnished green Eumolpus ; a bronze-brown
species of Silphodes, allied to S. Philippinensis of West-
wood ; a new species of Dorcus, and a Lucanus allied to
L. Saiga of Olivier; a new species of Bolboceras (B
Koreensis, Adams and White), with a black thorax, and
black and brown elytra ; an Adoretm, of a rusty-brown
colour, allied to A. ranunculus ; a new species of Mononyx,
of a dull blackish-brown, which hides in the sandy soil, and
when caught feigns death ; and a Scutigera, found under
stones, and which when disturbed runs with great celerity.
Besides these may be added a species of Scarites, entirely
of a shining coal-black colour, which is very active, running
about all day among the heaps of sea- weed thrown up
along the beach. When approached it burrows rapidly
in the sand, bites very severely, and makes vigorous efforts
to escape. It is a most predacious creature, feeding
greedily on the Talitri, Gammari, and other small Crus-

SHELLS. 463

tacea that abound in these situations. I have watched
them enter the holes in the sand, and on giving them
insects of any description, they would seize them savagely
with their powerful jaws, and rapidly tear them in pieces.
I h ave found this same insect lying concealed in the bur-
rows of a small Ocypode that perforates the sandy soil in
all directions, and which most probably forms part of
the prey of this carnivorous insect. Many other Coleoptera
besides the Scarites appear to have the same habit of bur-
rowing in the sand ; as the Hesperopliilm arenarius, and
some species of Bledius and Dyschirim. At the back of
the Isle of Wight I have observed a large beetle with
similar habits.

Several handsomely marked varieties of Stomatella
rubra, besides the Stomatella auricula and sulcifera, and
Stomatix pliymotis and duplicate, were found strewing
the beach of some of the coral islands, mixed with a spe-
cies of Crepidula ; and in the deep water between some
of the wall-sided basaltic islets a rich harvest of Tere-
bratulce including two large characteristic new species of a
beautiful and delicate red-rose colour. The former
shell occurred in great numbers, and was observed washed
up along the coasts filling the holes of the rocks ; thus
proving that typhoons and violent tempests in their
agitation of the sea penetrate to very considerable depths
below the surface, requiring these delicate shells to be
anchored for further security by a byssus to the stones
at the bottom. Submarine agitations have been known
to reach to a depth of 200 feet, and so violent in their
operation as to break rocks in pieces. A single valve of
a large and interesting new species of Cockle (Cardium

464 SHELLS.

Bechei, Adams and Reeve) was obtained by the dredge
from the same locality, and in the straits separating Korea
from the island of Kiusu, one of the Japanese group, a
specimen of the remarkable Fusus pagoda, together with
several scarce Nuculce and some Murices, among which
was a magnificent new one I propose naming in honour
of Sir William Burnett, were procured. The rocks of the
Korean islands were covered with a large kind of Mono-
donta which boiled with a little salt, were excellent eating;
adhering to the stones was &Mytilus, which, when masti-
cated, was of a peppery taste; and the mud-flats in the
neighbourhood of fishing-wears, were covered with the
Cardium Sinense, and a species of BuUaa; while the rare
Lingula tumidula, Reeve, was found buried a little below
the surface.

The Cryptostoma generally inhabits very deep water.
It is cautious and timid in the extreme, contracting its
body on the slightest touch. When, however, it fancies
itself secure and unobserved, it gradually expands its
shapeless form, protrudes its long large foot, and explores
the surface on which it crawls, with a small finger-like
process, in the manner of a leech before fixing itself. It
progresses with a tardigrade movement, sliding like a
Limax, on its ventral disc, the short tentacles exserted,
and the posterior lobes of the mantle dilated. It is
closely allied to Natica in every particular.

The Eburna is leisurely in its movements, exserting its
tentacula and crawling with a slow and measured pace.
It is, however, quick and rapid, when alarmed, in perceiv-
ing the enemy, and immediately retracts the soft parts
within the shell. Swainson states it has no operculum,

ASPECT OF CORAL-BEDS. 465

which is not correct. The mantle of this species is of a dull,
dirty pinkish white, covered with large irregular shaped,
reddish-brown blotches, distributed in no regular order ;
the siphon is marbled with the same colour, but of a
lighter shade; the tentacles are dull pinkish- white.
Living Eburna are very common in the China sea. They
generally live in a muddy botton, and in about fourteen
fathoms of water. The Chinese fishermen along the coast
frequently bring them up in their nets, together with
Dorippe, Dromia, and other Crustaceans; and I have seen
them carefully set apart in the stern of their craft, as if
for the purpose of being eaten.

Among the islands of the Korean Archipelago, the
coral-beds are very splendid, and appear, as you look
down upon them, through the clear, transparent, water,
to form beautiful flower-gardens of marine plants. The
polypi which protrude their hydra-forms, are coloured
green, blue, violet, and yellow, which gives the corals a
very different appearance to the dry, calcareous masses
seen in museums, and calls to mind the exclamation of
St. Pierre: "Nos livres sur la nature n'en sont que le
roman, et nos cabinets que le tombeau." Indeed few
sights of nature can exceed, in beauty and interest, these
submarine parterres, where, amid the protean forms of
the branched corals, huge madrepores, brain-shaped, flat,
or headed like gigantic mushrooms, are interspersed with
sponges of the deepest red, and huge asterias of the richest
blue. But as Spencer very properly observes,

"Much more eath to tell the stars on hy,
Albe they endless seeme in estimation,
Than to recount the seas posterity :
So fertile be the floods in generation,
So huge their numbers, and so numberless their nation."
VOL. II. 2 H

466 SPONGES.

Among these numerous small islands of the Korean
Archipelago, Sponges are very plentiful, and in some
spots may be collected in almost any quantity. They
are also easily studied here in a living state. Apathetic
and immovable, Sponges may be said hardly to exist ;
nourished by permeating canals, which pervade in every
direction their porose bodies, they have properties but no
instincts, attributes but no sensations. Their living and
gelatinous crusts show no vital energies, save the ceaseless
vibration of innumerable cilia, that properly belong to
animal existence. Mechanically the surrounding fluid
moves in through myriads of pores and larger vents, and
then they grow rooted and immovable, and gradually as-
sume their specific forms and full dimensions. Soft and
delicate, they love the deep still waters of the tropic seas,
where, in obscure recesses, they propagate, and grow, and
die. Among the islands I enumerated ten or twelve well
marked species which are most likely new. Some were
flat, and split into numerous riband-like branches, others
were round and digitated, others filiform, elongated and
cylindrical, while some were in the form of hollow tubes;
others form delicate lace-like aggregate cells, others wide
cancellated infundibuliform cups. Some again have
broad scalloped rounded leaves, and others dense white
branch-like foliations, some are hard and horny, some
quite solid with calcareous spicula, and others loose, light,
and very expansible.

Various singular species of the fleshy -lobed Sarco-
phyta and handsomely coloured varieties of Tubastrtea,
with numerous other showy-looking Corallines were
common on all the beaches.

Leaving Hong-Kong on the 1st of April, we touched

SAMA-SANA. 467

at Batan on the 17th of May, were at Ibugos on the
19th, at Bay at on the 20th, sighted Botel Tobago on the
2nd of June, and on the 3rd landed and examined the
small isolated island of Sama-Sana, of whose existence on
the surface of our globe serious doubts had been enter-
tained. On landing in the boats we noticed two large
junks hauled up high and dry upon the beach, and on
inquiry through our Chinese interpreter found that they
had just brought emigrants from Chin-Chu and Amoy.
On proceeding to their village, while the Captain was en-
gaged in fixing the position of the island and taking the
necessary observations, I found about two hundred people
dressed in the manner of the lower orders of Chinese,
with the features of Tartars or Cochin-Chinese, living in
houses wretchedly dirty, and constructed in the manner
of those of the poorer classes of Pa-tchung-san. With
much politeness these poor islanders led me into one of
their hovels and brought me Samschiew, rice, boiled lily-
roots, dried mollusks (Haliotis), and roasted ground-nuts
or pods of the Arachis liypogea. They had brought a beau-
tiful valley in the vicinity of their hamlet into an excellent
state of cultivation, growing rice, sweet potato (Batatas
edulis), Indian corn and ground-nuts, with a little
tobacco. They appeared to be much addicted to chewing
the areca-nut, and betel-leaf, and were, moreover, almost
continually smoking. The women were very ugly, even
for members of the Mongolian race, but by no means shy
or distant, as is generally the case in these countries. An
old man at parting gravely placed upon my finger a ring
made from a species of Conus, with the spire and pro-
duced part of the body-whorl ground down. In a ramble

2 H 2

468 AN EARTHQUAKE.

through the island I procured specimens of a beautiful
PotycJmis, (a species of Lizard,) and noticed the lovely
green Size Moosee or Tachysaurus Japonicus, and a small
brown species of Zootica. Frogs were numerous in the
padi-fields, contrary to what might have been expected on
so small an island. The land and fresh-water shells were
similar to those of the Meia-co-shimahs, namely a small
brown snail, a Paludina, and two species of Lymnaa.

Herons, snipes, and plovers were numerous on the
island. Among the trees the Banyan and Ficus tinctoria
formed in many parts dense shady groves. In the course
of my rambles I made a capture of a large Dynastes,
several Cetoniae, and a splendid new member of the
Curculio family, a species of Platyrhynchus allied to
P. multipunctatus, but differing from that insect in
several particulars. As the species named by Schonherr,
P. Waltoni, is synonymous with one previously described
by Waterhouse and Chevlotat, I have named this Sama-
Sana beetle P. Waltonianus, in honour of that gentleman
who has devoted such minute attention to this branch of
Entomology. The insect is dark, shining-black, covered
with round opaque, powdery spots of a deep smalt-blue
colour, and having the thorax and elytra sculptured.
Pound on the leaves of plants.

As our party were quietly regaling themselves with a
cold collation, seated comfortably on the turfy side of a
hummock near the sea, we were suddenly rocked and
tumbled about in a very absurd manner by the intestinal
commotion and up-heaving of an earthquake, the shock
of which extended to the ship, and was distinctly felt on
board.

SCENERY OF KUMI. 469

A survey of the small island of Kurai, placed us once
again among our ancient friends, the Me'ia-co-shimites.
Our welcome was as polite and ceremonious, the same
attention was paid to our wants, and a similar active and
a vigilant espionage was bestowed upon all our movements,
resembling that we experienced at Pa-tchung-san.
They erected rude huts as watch-houses near our tents,
supplied us with mats, lent us horses, and accompanied
us from village to village, in a similar manner. We found
the scenery of the island in many parts very pretty and
picturesque, and even in some places discovered scenes
of considerable grandeur and sublimity. Along the coast
we were frequently obliged to trust implicitly to the
sagacity and sure-footedness of our tough little horses,
which conducted us safely by many a "mauvais pas"
along the edge of precipitous cliffs and overhanging
rocks. The villages are most delightfully situated and
often laid out with very considerable taste, the houses
being neatly built, and prettily disposed among clumps
of trees. In the centre of the island we were obliged to
ascend on horseback a stone-road cut in a winding
manner up the side of a hill, in order to obtain a favour-
able view of the island. About half-way up we found a
beautiful clear spring shaded with trees, and in fording
the tranquil pool formed by the trickling water, I noticed
numbers of aquatic beetles of the genus Cyclom with
shining, polished, pitch-black elytra, short, broad legs,
formed like the flattened blades of paddles, disporting on
the surface like so many gigantic whirl wigs, (Gyrinus
natator,} those silvery-looking little insects which weave
mystic mazes during the summer-time in the ponds of

470 THE JAPANESE.

Europe. Large flocks of handsome pigeons were com-
mitting depredations on the padi-fields ; several elegant
and showy-looking Cetonits (coleopterous insects) were
flying about the grass on the summits of the hills, which
were peopled moreover by thousands of those singular
long-headed Orthoptera, the Truxalis, beautiful green
Pliylloptera with large, soft, leaf-like elytra, and an odd-
looking Tropidinotus. In the evening, glow-worms were
exceedingly numerous in all parts of the island. In the
still, calm nights, the "diapason of the deep" lent its
powers of pleasing, as the waves idly dashed against the
rock-bound coast, and very soon lulled the small party,
tired with their days rambling, to a sound sleep on the
mats and grass laid for them on the ground.

On the 5th of August we were anchored in Nangasaki
Bay, with the mountainous country covered with vegeta-
tion, surrounding us on all sides. The hills being prettily
surmounted with trees, and their sides beautifully culti-
vated in terraces after the Chinese fashion, together with
the batteries and tents for the troops on shore, and the
surface of the bay swarming with imperial guard-boats,
fishing craft, and pleasure boats, gave an air of great
vivacity and novelty to the scene. The gentlemen of
Japan were most polite and courteous in their manners,
conducting themselves with refined and polished urbanity,
and walking about with a solemn and respectful de-
meanour, putting to shame the ill-breeding of the seamen
who ventured to laugh at them. When they meet one
another, they close the hands, bring them together at the
knees, and, bending the body, make a very graceful bow.
Their curiosity and desire for information was very great.

THE JAPANESE. 471

Many among them spoke Dutch, and some a little French.
They appeared to be very well acquainted with geography,
and pointed out their three principal islands, (which they
pronounce Kew-Sew, Nipung, and Sikok,) on the map
with the greatest ease. Some of them seemed to be well
conversant with guns and gunnery ; others could even
master a few words of English. When I offered an old
gentleman who paid us a visit in the midshipman's berth
a penknife, he said very distinctly, " I must not;" although
no compunction of that nature was manifested when eat-
ables and drinkables were in question. Those of more
respectable appearance, and who were doubtless inter-
preters sent off as spies, were all furnished with writing
materials. Their " Yahtati," or inkstands, were very
compact, and similar in principal and nearly in form to
the ancient Atramentaria found at Pompeii, and in use
among the Greeks, with little covers to keep the dust
from the ink. The Japanese, however, had the advantage
over these, in being provided with a long hollow metallic
handle, in which the pen was always kept in readiness.
Many of these people had a debauched and debilitated
look. Like the Loo-Chooans, they dress in long loose
robes of various texture and colour, secured about their
middle with a broad sash, in which among the upper
orders two sabres are thrust.* The pattern of their robes
is very various, blue being the chief and favourite colour;
some however are light black, some buff colour, some
chequered black and white, some striped, others flowered,
many quite plain, some marked with characters on the
back, others with various circles and mysterious hiero-

* Sec Frontispiece.

472 THE JAPANESE.

glyphic devices, each doubtless having a meaning as de-
noting the rank of the wearer, or his office ; but to us
they were quite unintelligible. Unlike the Loo-Chooans,
however, over this flowing garment, which extends as low
down as the ankles, the Japanese wear a large loose jacket,
with very wide sleeves, which reaches as far as the knees.
Like those of Loo-Choo, their feet are protected with
sandals, neatly made of plaited rice-grass, and their socks
either black, dark blue, or white, have a separate com-
partment for the great toe, like the Mandarins of Napa.
Like these latter they go bare-headed, carry their short
pipes in a neat case, and use paper pocket-handkerchiefs.
Some of the soldiers wore tight pantaloons and gaiters.

In their gait, from the constant practice of wearing
sandals, they are slouching and awkward. The head is
shaved from the front to the nape of the neck, the hair on
the sides is strained upwards, tied at the top, and the
ends of the hairs glued together by grease or wax, form-
ing what they call a " Kami," which is tied in two places
with silver wire, and brought forward on the bald crown,
thus differing somewhat from the " Kotuxa" of Loo-Choo,
where the hair is secured in a knot. They shave the cheek
and chin, differing also in this particular from the people
of Loo-Choo. The boatmen and lower orders are nearly
naked. They were treated with disdain by most of the
higher classes, who would not allow them to come on
board. These men are very active and strong, and of a
much browner complexion than the better classes, many
of whom are almost white. The deep, oblong, sunken eye
of China is common among these men, although I have
seen some with eyes nearly as full as those of Europeans.

JAPANESE SHELLS. 473

They all evinced a great repugnance to having their
scimitars withdrawn from their sheaths, and showed great
aversion when questioned about the operation of ripping
up the belly in cases of honourable suicide, but intimated
that the short straight sword was the one employed, and
the long curved one for fighting. The blades of these
weapons were highly tempered, keen-edged, and beauti-
fully wrought with figures. The sheaths, in numerous
instances, were very splendid. Some were of black po-
lished lacquer, with gold figures inlaid ; others of shagreen,
and others covered with various devices in silver; the guards
were ornamented in an equally chaste and tasteful man-
ner. They wear the sharp edge upwards, the reverse of
most other nations. On the whole, they appear from all
accounts to be more upright, honourable, and at the same
time more jealous than the Chinese, more refined and
civilised than the Koreans, and more warlike and intellec-
tual than the Loo-Chooans. Many of the arts and sci-
ences have arrived at considerable excellence among them,
more particularly those of an imitative character; their
manners are softened and polished to the utmost degree
of refinement ; and at the same, if Titsingh and others are
to be believed, their morals are at a very low ebb indeed.

Although surrounded by the imperial guard-boats,
which watched all our movements with a jealous vigilance,
numbers of interesting shells were procured from a muddy
bottom, at about eight fathoms water, by dredging under
the stern and in the ship, both coming in and going
out of the bay. Among these were species of Nucula,
Pandora, Myadora, Area, Necera, Anatina, Mya, and
Cardium, obtained in the living state ; and Balanm,

474 VOLCANIC ARCHIPELAGO.

Venus, Pullastra, Tettina, Pecten, Ostrcea, Modiolm, and
Lima, in a dead state. Among the univalves which were
obtained in a living condition, were Pleurotoma, Clava-
tula, Cancellaria, Terebra, Murex, and Nassa ; and dead
species of Cylichna, Natica, Miira, Dolium, BuH&a, Te-
rebellum, Turritella, and Dentalium. Altogether the
dredge furnished us with thirty-two genera, and numer-
ous species of Mollusks, besides Spatangus, Asterias,
Leucosia, Matuta, Echinus, and Sipunculm.

On our passage from Nangasaki to Loo-Choo, we sailed
through a small archipelago comparatively unknown, and
consisting of from fifteen to twenty conical islands, all of
them evidently being the tops of a sunken chain of vol-
canic mountains, some of them still in an active state of
eruption, vomiting forth smoke in large volumes, from
terminal craters or fissures in the sides. These sub-
marine mountains must be very steep and lofty, for quite
close to the shore no bottom was found with two hun-
dred fathoms of line. On one islet, named " Disaster,"
on account of the upsetting of the Captain's gig and loss
of numerous valuable instruments, hundreds of the
amphibious Sulla viridis of Rang, or B. calyculata of
Sowerby, were discovered crawling on the surface of the
rock, a little way removed from the dashing of the
waves. On some few of these sterile meteoric islands
goats were seen hanging from the flanks and browsing
on the scanty herbage; and these, mixed with a few Sweet-
potatoes, would seem to constitute the food of a few poor
miserable wretches of the human species, who have most
probably been banished to these inhospitable shores from
Japan or Loo-Choo, and who here contrive to maintain

NEW GENUS OP MOLLUSKS. 475

a precarious existence on roots and goats'-flesh. They
are not, however, sufficiently versed in geologic lore to
understand on what ticklish ground they tread, or that they
stand a chance of being one day either burnt or drowned.

The Mollusk that constructs the shell of Sulla viridis,
Rang, would appear to form the type of a new genus,
which may be thus characterised. Smaragdinetta : body
oval, and somewhat depressed; lateral lobes moderate,
reflexed, covering a small portion of the sides of the shell,
opened and produced in front, and rounded posteriorly
where they are continuous with the foot ; foot moderate,
rounded before and behind ; head-disc five-sided, narrow
and notched behind, rather broader on each side in front,
flattish above, with two small tubercular tentacles in front
of the central eyes, which are round, black, sessile, and
placed rather wide apart. Shell partly external and
naked above, with the body whorl turned inwards, open,
and forming a very peculiar, shallow, cup-shaped process,
which renders it quite different from other Bullidce.

The animal of Sulla viridis of Rang, or the Sulla
calyculata of Sowerby, is figured in the Voyage of the
Astrolabe (t. 26, f. 13.) In that figure are correctly repre-
sented the peculiar prolongation of the lateral lobes for-
wards, the square-shaped cephalic disc, and the two
round sessile eyes ; but in the animals 1 examined there
were observed the rudiments of two tentacular processes,
situated anterior to the eyes. The head-disc in this genus,
as in other Bullida, occasionally assumes various forms
according to the will of the animal, being either deeply
indented in front with lateral sharp projecting angular
processes, or rounded lobes, or very much produced in

476 NEW GENUS OF MOLLUSKS.

front, forming an elongated finger-shaped process, which
it employs as an exploring organ. The lateral lobes in like
manner may vary in their outline, tapering in front to
form on either side a salient angle which curves outwards,
or a portion of the thin margin, which partially overlaps
the shell, is produced into a rounded lobe or process ; the
two lateral lobes are continuous behind, and may extend
much more beyond the shell and posterior lobe than is
represented in M. Uang's figure. The Sulla smaragdina
of Lewkart, which is formed into a genus by Ehrenberg,
under the name of Cryptocephalus olivaceus (Symbols
physicae Mollusc Tab. 1, f. 4), is totally distinct from
Smaragdinella viridis. Smaragdinella is amphibious and
entirely marine, crawling slowly on rocks immediately
above the ripple of the sea. The animal of Smarag.
viridis is dark olive-green, speckled and mottled with a
yet darker shade ; the margins of the foot, those of the
lateral lobes, and of the head-disc are of a lighter green ;
and the eyes are black.

477

CHAPTER IX.

BOENEO.

Indian Butterfly-flower — Mangrove, Casuarina, and other trees — Bird-
catching plant — Curious Tree-louse — Nidification of Pigeons —
New Bulimus — Wasps' and Ants' nests — Borneon Mammifera —
Haunts of Molluscous animals — Their Habits — Localities of certain
fresh-water species — Habits of Crustaceans — Singular larvae — In-
stincts and varied forms of Spiders — Visit Kabatuan — Muda Mo-
hammed— The Dusuns — Molluscous animals.

IN the course of our survey of the north-west coast of
Borneo, including Abai, the river of which is said to com-
municate with the waters of Kini Balu lake ; Tampassook,
the noted haunt of Illanon pirates ; Kabatuan, which has
the brother of Muda Hassim for Rajah ; and Ambong,
peopled chiefly by Bajows or sea-gipsies, we obtained
several interesting forms, more particularly from that
southern portion of the Chinese Sea, which washes this
part of the Borneon coast.

Balambangan is a very flat and most unwholesome
looking island, covered in a great part of its extent with
Mangroves and Casuarinas, and in parts, where fresh-
water pools occur, overrun with pitcher-plants (Nepenthes
destillatoria) . The Phaleenopsis amabilis or Indian But-
terfly plant, at the time of our visit, was in full flower.

478 TREES.

This lovely epiphyte, which is considered one of the
choicest and most splendid of the Orchidaceous family,
grows in thick clustering masses, on the bark of the
trees ; and I have seen as many as twenty-five large
white satiny blossoms on a single raceme, constituting a
most gorgeous floral plume, and, contrasting with the
dark-green foliage over which it hangs, forming one of the
most lovely objects in the world of plants. Large tracts
of the island are fringed with Casuarina trees of rather
small dimensions, but I am unable to say of what species.

The Casuarina equisetifolia sufficiently indicates the
peculiar appearance of the foliage of those showy -looking
feathery trees that are usually seen stretching along many
parts of the coast of Borneo, more particularly in the
vicinity of the mouths of rivers where the ground lies
low. These trees are dioecious, and produce small woody
cones, which, together with their horsetail-like leaves,
remind one of pine-trees, and may perhaps be considered
the representatives of the Conifers in tropical regions.

Another tree, the name of which so repeatedly occurs
in the pages of travellers, is the Mangrove, which renders
hundreds of miles uninhabitable by man. There are two
species of Mangrove common in Borneo : one of which,
the Rhizojphora Gymnorkiza, is a very tall and handsome
tree, with leathery leaves growing in radiated tufts at the
ends of the branches; and with very singular-shaped
elongated fruit, which falls down into the mud, where it
sticks with its sharp point buried, and thus becomes a
young tree. I have seen many acres covered with these
strange pointed young Mangroves, in every stage of deve-
lopment. The roots of this kind of Ehizophora appear

TREES. 479

above the ground, giving the specific name of Gymnorliiza
to the tree ; those of a single individual sometimes ex.-
tend in a complicated series of loops and arches over a
considerable space of ground, offering secure retreats for
myriads of Gelasimi, jumping fish, mosquitoes, and other
animals that love to frequent the low swampy banks of
rivers. This species ordinarily affects fresh water ; but
near the sea, and often fringing the low islets that extend
along the coast in many parts is another kind, the Rhizo-
phora Mangle, which is a much lower tree, with smaller
leaves and a fruit differently shaped, which by means
of its twisted matted roots forms excellent break -waters,
binding together the loose soil and shingle, and thus
effectually preventing the encroachments of the sea among
these low islands.

The Aquilaria Agalloclia is one of the most common
trees in the forests skirting the sea. It is a very large
showy-looking tree, with the veins of the oval polished
leaves running from the mid-rib to the margin, like those
of some Endogens, so that there can be no difficulty in
distinguishing it. The wood is frequently used by the
Chinese, but is not very durable ; it yields the Lignum
Aloes of commerce, and has faint medicinal qualities.*
Another very common plant is the Coculus cordifolius,
with its long filiform pendent stems, which hang sus-
pended from the tops of the high forest-trees, producing
a singular effect when they are numerous. The Malays
employ some of the species of the genus Coculus in the

* The Agila wood, the produce of this tree, enters extensively into
the composition of the -Toss-sticks employed by the Chinese in their
religious ceremonies.

480 REMARKABLE PLANT.

cure of intermittent fever, and it is said with much be-
nefit. The Coculus Indieus of commerce, the seeds of
which are used to adulterate beer, belongs to quite a
different genus, the Anamirta. I have frequently col-
lected berries which leave almost an indelible yellow stain
on the fingers, and have no doubt many valuable vege-
table dyes yet remain to be discovered in Borneo. The
men frequently, during watering and wooding, stained
their hands with a yellow sap, perhaps that of the Termi-
nalia Chebula. The smooth, black, shining nuts of the
Semecarpus Anacardium, yield a juice which produces an
indelible stain, and forms much better marking ink than
the caustic usually employed for that purpose.

At Pulo Tiga, Sir Edward Belcher discovered a spe-
cies offisonia, a plant remarkable for having the perianth
surrounding the fruit covered with hooks and viscid
glands, and the inflorescence being in loose pannicles
and covering the tops of large bushes, birds frequently
become involved among the branches, and while feeding
on the fruit get caught by the sharp recurved hooks,
assisted by the viscid secretion which acts like birdlime.
Many old forest-trees in Borneo, where the soil is super-
ficial, unable to sustain the weight of their wide-spread
leafy crowns, and deprived of that sheet-anchor the tap-
root, throw out strong butresses from their sides in the
shape of wing-shaped masses, which extend in various
directions, and maintain the perpendicularity of the
trunks. Crawling slowly on the leaves in the forest of
Balambangan, is found a very remarkable form oiAcarides,
allied in many respects to the genus Ixodes. It is about
half an inch in length ; the back is covered with rounded

NIDIFICATION OF PIGEONS. 481

elevations very symmetrically disposed, and nearly con-
cealed by a mealy efflorescence, which when rubbed off,
leaves the surface smooth and of a light red-brown ; the
under surface is smooth, and of a pale brown ; the legs
are very short, and the eyes are invisible. A remarkable
form of Arachnidans, a species of Macrocheles, with a
hard flat body, of a reddish-brown colour, with a straw-
coloured head, is also to be met with on this island.

On the 21st of March, 1846, the day on which we
received orders for England, I landed on a small islet
between Banguey, or more properly Banggi, and Balam-
bangan. The ground was partially clear among the trees,
and studded with a very elegant species of Pandanus, on
the crown-shaped bunches of the leaves of which, numbers
of large blue Pigeons had built their nests, consisting of
a mass of leaves and earth, rudely put together. Each
nest contained two large, oval, milk-white eggs, and I
observed that the young ones sometimes tumbled over the
edge of the platform, which performed the office of cradle,
and that the old birds did not seem to have the power or
sagacity to pick them up again. I noticed the mother of
one of these unfortunate outcasts, tenderly caressing and
offering it food, while, in other parts, several callow
nurslings were lying dead upon the ground. All day
the adult birds remain concealed among the dense clouds
of foliage, high up above their nests in the Pandanus
trees, while their monotonous cooing serves as a lullaby
to their little ones ; but towards the cool of the evening,
these Pigeons take their departure in large flocks, and
proceed direct to the forests of Banguey, whence they return
with their crops distended with green berries, and other

VOL. II. 2 I

482 NEW BULIMUS.

fruits, among which I noticed young Guavas and the wild
nutmeg.

Arboreal Cyclostomata, of elegant form, and covered
with delicate markings, were observed crawling on the
long Pandanus leaves ; a small, flat, yellow Helicina was
found adhering to their under surface ; and a single spe-
cimen of Nanina was obtained. A tree, partially cut
through at the base with axes, fell upon one of the car-
penters wooding on the island, and besides depriving him
at the time of sensation, inflicted a severe wound on the
temple. What proved a misfortune to the man, how-
ever, presented to science a new and very beautiful
species of Bulimus, which I discovered in considerable
numbers, adhering to the foliage of the prostrate tree.
This species, which has been named Bulimus Adamsii by
Mr. Lovell Reeve, is of a pale yellow, with the base of
the columellar lip of a violet colour, a chain of oval spots
of the same colour winding round the convexity of the
body whorl, and running between the convolutions of the
spire as far as the apex ; the shell is reversed, and the
markings vary in almost every individual, some being
nearly covered with spots, and others being entirely of a
pale straw colour.

Naninte are very lively animals, living high up among
the foliage of the trees; they have the cloak produced in
front and divided into two rounded lobes, and the poste-
rior extremity of the foot truncated and provided with a
remarkable gland. There are four tentacles, and the well
developed eyes are placed at the extremities of the longest
pair. Extending along the lower margin of the foot, is a
singular border formed of deep vertical striae ; the poste-

WASPS' NESTS. 483

rior part of the foot is marked with straight lines directed
backwards, while the anterior is finely tesselated as in the
bodies of common snails. Under the name of Vitrina,
Quoy (Voy. Astrol. t. 2, fig. 1, 2, 8, 5, 16,) has given
several figures of this genus, which was established by
Mr. Gray. The species observed by me was of a
pinkish-white colour, and brownish-red towards the ante-
rior part and end of the tail. The animal, like the shell,
was very delicate and semipellucid. The shell was faint
flesh colour, with a crimson stripe following the suture of
the body whorl.

Attached sideways, by a slender peduncle, to the under
surface of the long leaves of the Pandanus trees, with
which as I have said the interior of this pretty little islet
abounded, were numbers of wasps'-nests, belonging to a
species of Polistes, and beautifully fashioned of a paper-
like material. They consisted of several tiers of cells of
the usual hexagonal form, with their mouths directed
downwards and to one side, and increasing in number as
they receded from the point of attachment, thus rendering
the nests of a conical shape. In each cell reposed a fat
white larva, somewhat doubled up, with its head down-
wards, and to one side. Some of the cells were covered
with a lid and were full of honey, but whether the larvae
could get at it appeared to me somewhat problematical,
unless their careful mothers fed them, like sparrows and
pigeons do their little ones. I noticed two kinds of ants'-
nests on the island, one species of the size of a man's
hand adhering to the trunk of trees, resembled, when
cut through, a section of the lungs ; the other was
composed of small withered bits of sticks and leaves,

484 BORNEON MAMMIFERS.

heaped up in the axils of branches, somewhat in the form
of flattened cylinders and compressed cones.

As might naturally be expected from the circumstance of
the island comprising the vast chain of the Oriental Archi-
pelago lying within the tropics, the equinoctial line extend-
ing nearly through the centre, the animals peculiar to the
entire group partake of a certain uniformity of character ;
many islands having, however, certain well marked varieties
of animals peculiar to their own Fauna. Borneo, like the
other islands, may be said to bear the same relation in its
animal and vegetable productions to India, as the West
Indian Islands do to America ; but Borneo, occupying a
more central position between the zoological regions of
Hindostan and Malacca on the one hand, and of Australia
on the other, has more large quadrupeds than New Guinea,
but at the same time fewer forms which are peculiar to
the Australian Fauna. The Dutch, however, have ascer-
tained the existence of several species of those anomalous
mammals, the Tree Kangaroos (Dendrolegus] in Borneo,
the Pteromys will represent Petaurista, and I have seen a
small Gerbil which might represent the Kangaroos on the
one hand, and the Gerbillus Indicus on the part of Hin-
dostan. Herds of Elephants are stated to tramp the vast
unexplored forests of the promontory of Unsang, although
during our visits to that part of the coast no traces of
those huge Pachyderms were reported to have been seen ;
but as the Elephant has been found in Sumatra, and as
the Indian Tapir exists in Borneo, the probability is that
the Elephant may some day be discovered. The researches
of Messrs. Diard, Korthals, and Miiller, have ascertained
the existence of a species of Rhinoceros, but it is uncertain

BORNEON MAMMIFERS. 485

whether it belongs to the two-horned species of Sumatra,
or the one-horned species found in Java ; the Leopard of
Borneo appears to be the Felis macrocelis, although the
existence of a much larger carnivorous quadruped may
be inferred from the long sharp canine teeth worn in the
ears of the Orang Sagai, and which appeared to me to
have belonged to an animal nearly as large as the Royal
Tiger, a variety of which, indeed, is found both in Java
and Sumatra. The Dyaks, in explaining their mode of
killing this tiger by surrounding him in great numbers,
and then shooting him with sumpits or poisoned arrows,
described him as being large and fierce, and living among
the mountains. Mr. Brooke has ascertained the exist-
ence of three species of Orang Utans in Borneo; namely,
the Simla Wurmbii or Mias Pappan, the Simia Morio or
the Mias Kassar, and the Mias Rambi, which he states is
either the Simia Abelii, or a fourth species ; he observes,
moreover, that " the existence of the Sumatran Orang in
Borneo is by no means impossible." The Wou-Wou of
Borneo is of a darker colour than the Javanese species,
and has been named Hylobates concolor or H. Harlanii;
it is represented in India by the Great Gibbon or Hylo-
bates albimanus. Among other quadrumanous animals
peculiar to this great island, may be mentioned the
Semnopithecus nasicm or Proboscis Monkey, the Semn.
auratus and Semn. cristatus, and the Inuus nemestrinus;
Borneo swarms, however, with monkeys, among which
doubtless are many undescribed species. The Tarsius
or the Didelphis macrolarsus of Gmelin, is an inhabitant
of this island, thereby connecting it to the Fauna of
the Moluccas ; and Sciurus bicolor, S. niyromttatus, S.

486 QUADRUPEDS OF BORNEO.

escilis, and S. melanotis, together with several kinds of
Tupaias are also found. At the northern extremity we
observed large numbers of a great deer which came
down to drink at the pools of brackish water that
abound there, most probably identical with the Cervus
hippelaphus of Cuvier, which is also found in India ;
the Antelopes of that continent are represented by
the Pigmy Musk, (Moschus Javanicus,} a diminutive and
graceful little animal, which bears the same relation to the
poetry of Malayan Asia, as the Gazelle does to that of
Persia and Arabia. The Bovine races which inhabit
India, as the Bos frontalis or Gaour, and the Ami or
wild Buffalo of Hindostan, are represented in Borneo by
herds of wild cattle, which so far as I could make them
out at Point Sampang Mengayu, where they are very
numerous, have short curved horns, long legs, small dew-
laps, and a straight back; the domestic Ox which I have
also seen is perfectly different, and owes its descent most
probably from the Zebu, as the wild one does from the
Arni. That striking resemblances can be made between
the Faunas, not of northern or central Asia, but of Hin-
dostan and Malacca, is not to be very much wondered at,
when we consider that the chain of the Great Indian
Archipelago is nothing more than a long, curved, disjointed
mass of land broken by volcanic force from the south-
eastern portion of the Asiatic continent, and separated
merely by the superficial waters of the China Sea. The
breed of small and wolf-like dogs employed by the Dyaks
in hunting the boar, are stated to occur in a wild state,
thus representing the Dingo of Australia, and the Canis
rutilans, or Wild-dog of the Mountains of Asia. Sumatra

QUADRUPEDS OF BORNEO. 487

has a wild dog, the Canis Sumatranus, as has likewise
Java, Canis Javanicus ; the Borneon variety may in like
manner be termed Canis Borneoensis. The Fiverra
zibetka, Paradoxurus typm, Sus barbatus, and the Cercopi-
thecns cynomolgm may also be enumerated among the
Mammalia of this vast island, and the list might easily be
extended. The Stenops tardigradus is possibly repre-
sented in Asia by the Slow Lemur of Bengal; the Sciurus
bicolor is also found in India, and the same may be said
of the Pteropi, Ichneumons, and Bats. The war-dresses
of the Sagai Dyaks consisted in numerous instances of
the dried skins of large Felinae, on the ears of many of
which I observed tufts of hair like those of a lynx. At
Kabatuan some of the women wore necklaces or amulets,
formed of the scales of the Pangolin or Manis pentadac-
tyla, which in India is represented loyManis crassicaudata;
the Helarctos Malayanus, a small Bear, is found both in
Borneo and on the Malayan Peninsula. One of these ani-
mals paid us a visit at the encampment at Sarawak, but
although hotly pursued and fired at, contrived to escape
unscathed into the jungle; on another occasion, I found
myself face to face with an individual of the same species,
which on seeing me, trotted leisurely away.

At the village of Kabatuan, I noticed a very fine
specimen of the red-necked Ichneumon (Herpestes semi-
torquafus); it was quite tame in the house of one of the
principal Pangerans, but although I affected to admire it
exceedingly, the old gentleman did not seem inclined to
part with it; and on the mountain of Serambo, the Dyaks
brought us a living specimen of a beautiful little squirreL
no larger than a Dormouse, the Sciurus wills ; it was

488 LOCALITIES OF MOLLUSCA.

perfectly mild and docile, but soon pined away and died.
In many parts of Borneo, Celebes, or indeed any of the
islands of the Oriental Archipelago, if you wander along
a portion of the coast, where from a steep and stony
beach beset with rocks, a level sand-flat extends beyond
for a long distance, and is bounded seaward by a barrier
of coral, against which the ocean dashes with violence,
and forms breakers which leap tumultuously over and fill
numerous small ponds on the inner side, — if you wander
along this, and observe with the curious eye of a Na-
turalist, you will notice various generic forms of Mollusks
engaged as follows, and in something like the following
order : Herbivorous Mollusks, that live upon the Fuel and
Alga covering the rocks and stones, come first ; Purpura
and Littorina, pretty brisk at certain times, and busy
grazing as the day closes in on their sea- weed pastures on
the exposed rocks, in company with Nerites with painted
backs, marked and figured with every variety of pattern ;
while Chiton, Murex, Doris, and Rissoa, more timid and
retiring, or more dull of disposition, hide under or adhere
to the surface of the stones, Nature having so closely
assimilated their forms, in many instances, to the stones,
and their colours to the cryptogamic plants that surround
them, as to make them invisible to the eyes of their
enemies. To these individuals which enjoy the blessings
of limited locomotion, may be added those more inert
members of the great Molluscous family, Siphonaria,
Patella and Vermetus; those Crustacean forms Conia and
Halanus, which are fixed upon the exposed rock-masses ;
and Policipen, Mytilus, Ostrcea and Byssoarca, which are
stuck fast in the crevices, or safely anchored in clefts and

LOCALITIES OF MOLLUSCA. 489

anfractuosities. Succeeding these, on the level sandflat,
you will notice Natica and the glossy Olives, partially
covered by their mantles, leisurely forming burrows in the
moist soft bed on which they spend their lives ; gaily-
coloured Volutes, and apathetic Mitres, with cloaks be-
grimed with dirt, crawling about with a slow deliberate
motion, wherever there remains a little water ; and when
that is gone, and they can no longer enjoy themselves,
they sink into the yielding sand, generally, if possible,
choosing places where it is mixed with mud. Then come
Buccinum, the large-footed Bullia, and Nassa, with its
bifid, turned- up tail, considerably more lively than their
last mentioned neighbours, of greater latitude in their
progressive movements, and which form long sinuous
tracks as they traverse on their foot-like bellies the loose
saturated sand; Natica and Oliva excavate the surface
more deeply still, and move in burrows underneath the
soil ; while Venus, Solen, and the light-shelled Mactra per-
forate obliquely the loose and moistened sand. At dead
low water, among huge stony madrepores and branching
corals that serve to form the barrier-reef and break-water
to protect those Mollusks that live inside and love calm
water, may be found embedded in their substance Litho-
domm and Pholas, Magilus and Lcptoconchus, snugly
lodged in their calcareous dwellings, secure from every
foe; Haliotis will be found clinging to loose stones, or
crawling over and under them, exposed ever to the raging,
roaring surf ; amid the rocky beds, Tridacna rests secure
in her stony house ; Cypraa cowering in the deep nooks;
holes, and corners, creeps forth cautiously and with care,
frequently hiding under stones so rough and large, that

490 COWRIES.

one wonders her beautiful porcellaneous shell is not more
often scratched and broken, or her tender mantle torn and
bruised. Here also Stomatia loves to reside, crawling
with deliberate pace among the branching coral trees ;
but polished Stomatella prefers the dead banks of coral
debris within the reef, hunting in company with Parmo-
pliorus. Outside the reef, the hand-dredge will furnish
you with Marginetta, Fusus, Pleurotoma, PJiorus, Cla-
vatula, Strombus, Triphoris, and Rostettaria, the first
three genera affecting, however, much shallower water
than the others. In very deep water, Terebratula and
Cylichna, Nucula and Necera, will be met with, and reward
industrious dredging with new and singular forms. In
very deep, still water the shells are noticed to be very thin
and delicate. We obtained a Fusus off the Cape in 135
fathoms and from a soft, muddy, and sandy bottom, with
a very thin, light, fragile shell, and a brown epidermis,
covered with hair-like appendages ; and a new species of
Tricotropis was dredged also in deep water and from a
muddy bottom, in the bay of Nangasaki, Kiusu, Japan.
Although I have examined hundreds of Cyprcea tigris in
a living state, I never saw those changes of colour in the
mantle of the animal noticed by Mr. Stutchberry, junior,
who moreover states, that they crawl about usually ex-
posed to the sun ; while the result of my experience would
lead me to believe, that they almost invariably lurk in
holes of rocks or under loose stones, and among branch-
ing coral. The species of Cypraa vary considerably in
colour, thus the animal o^Ci/preea carneola is of a beautiful
red colour, with the foot and mantle covered with nu-
merous opaque, oval, white spots ; that of C. talpa is of a

DEVELOPMENT OF CYPRJ3A. 491

pale brownish-black, with minute whitish specks ; that, of
C. caput-serpentis is of a rich green-brown ; and in
C. lynx the mantle is covered with numerous tufts of
various forms, nodulous, trifid, or ending in two short
processes ; that of C. Mauritania has conical tubercles ;
of C. erosa, numerous rather long branching arborescent
appendages ; of C. moneta with but few, and those chiefly
around the free upper edge of the mantle ; while in some,
these processes are altogether wanting. In Cypraa an-
nulus the siphon is of a dirty- white colour, the tentacles
orange, the eyes black, the mantle brown, covered with
small dark spots, the foot white, with black reticulated
markings. In Cyprcea err ones the mantle is light
brown, perfectly smooth, and covered with dark brown
reticulations ; the foot is brown, with minute white spots;
the peduncle of the eye is of a brilliant white ; the head
is brown ; the base of the tentacles is a dull white ; the
tentacles beyond the eyes, light brown. In Quoy's figure
(Voy. Astrol. t. 48, f. 18) of Cypraa Isabella, the edge of
the mantle is simply lobed, and the remainder of the
surface naked and void of appendages. In the animal of
C. errones the edge of the cloak forms a continuous
slightly-waved line, and the surface covering the shell is
perfectly smooth, and adorned only with the delicate
anastomosing lines mentioned above.

The young of Cypraa, when first they issue from the
ovum, are provided with two membranous alar expansions,
like some of the Pteropods, and a delicate hyaline, simple,
spiral, flattened, ear-shaped shell, which fully confirms the
observation of Professor E. Forbes, who observes, speaking
of the Gasteropoda generally, that "they all commence life
under the same simple form, both of shell and animal ;

492 YOUNG OF CYPRJBA.

namely, a very simple spiral helicoid shell, and an animal
furnished with two ciliated wings or lobes, by which it can
swim freely through the fluid in which it is contained."*
This forms the nucleus of the Cowry shell, which afterwards
grows and undergoes several changes in form, gradually
becoming more and more complicated until the outer lip is
inverted and marked with numerous sulci. The converse
of this, however, would appear to take place in other
Gasteropoda, as shown in the development of Dolabella,
Aplysia, and others, where the shell at first turbinated
and nautiloid in shape, afterwards becomes an internal,
flattened, horny plate. On placing the young Cowries
in a watch-glass of sea-water, they may be seen to
whirl about like the Hyalaea and Cleodora, and, like
Atlanta, to adhere when fatigued to foreign bodies, not
indeed by any sucking disc, but by means of the dilated
expansion of their mantle. In the course of growth these
fleshy expansions become entirely absorbed, and do not
ultimately constitute the lobes of the mantle which em-
brace and partially cover the shell in the adult. It would
constitute an interesting enquiry to observe the transi-
tions in the figure of the animal and shell throughout the
entire series of Molluscous groups, as I am convinced that
many phases exhibited in their metamorphoses would
throw new light not only on the identity of species, but
on the reality of the existence of certain genera.

Rostellaria has all the habits of the Strombidce, pro-
gressing by means of its powerful and elastic foot which
it places under the shell in a bent position, when sud-
denly, by a muscular effort, it straightens that organ, and

* Edin. Phil. Journal, xxxvi. p. 326.

HABITS OF MOLLUSKS. 493

rolls and leaps over and over. It is, however, far more
timid and suspicious than Strombus, which has a bold dis-
dosition. On the low sandy beach, near the mouth of
the Lundu River, in Borneo, dead shells of Rostettaria
rectirohsis are numerous, but generally in a very imper-
fect condition. At the small fishing village of Samahrtan
I inspected a large heap of these shells, which the
Malays had brought together for the purpose of turn-
ing them into lime. On enquiring of these poor fisher-
men whether it were possible to obtain them in a living
state, we were informed that they never procured them in
their nets, but that they lived in deep water at a consider-
able distance from the shore. The animal of Rostettaria
fissa does not differ from that of Strombus, and is of
a dull brown colour, varied with lighter brown. It is,
however, one of the most lively among Mollusks, jumping
several inches, and throwing itself about with the most
astonishing activity. It has none of the extreme timidity
of the former mentioned species.

The perfect development of the large, fine, pedunculated
eyes of Strombus, together with its very elongated, power-
ful, muscular body and foot, and claw-shaped stout, jagged,
horny operculum, constitute it one of the most active and
intelligent of Mollusks. It is, in fact, a most sprightly and
energetic animal, and often served to amuse me by its
extraordinary leaps and endeavours to escape, planting
firmly its powerful narrow operculum against any resist-
ing surface, insinuating it under the edge of its shell, and
by a vigorous effort throwing itself forwards, carrying its
great heavy shell with it, and rolling along in a series of
jumps in a most singular and grotesque manner.

494 NUDIBRANCHIATE MOLLUSKS.

Among new and interesting forms of those Molluscous
animals which are denied any calcareous defence in the
form of a shell, and the breathing organs of which are
consequently exposed, hence procuring them their name,
Nudibranchiata, may be mentioned two new species of
Dendronotus, one of which (D. stettifer, Adams and Reeve,)
is of a pale flesh colour, marked with undulating vertical
vermilion lines, freely anastomosing towards the foot, and
the veil overhanging the head provided with a star-
shaped tentacular appendage on either side. The other
species of this curiously-shaped genus (D. tenettus, Adams
and Reeve,) adheres like the former to floating Fuci;
crawls pretty briskly, and swims, when detached, by lateral
inflexions of the body. Among the Ttoridida, the Poly-
cera cornigera, (Adams and Reeve,) is one of the most
beautiful of the family, the body being of a pale straw
colour, beautifully marked with bright vermilion, which
covers entirely the dorsal portion, and descends in nu-
merous Vandykes towards the foot ; there is a row of
bright ultramarine spots on the anterior tubercle, and
another row of the same colour extending across the top
of the head. A species of the genus Hexabranchus of
Ehrenberg, which I have named H. sanguinolentm, is also
of the most lovely colours, but yet is made to yield the
palm to the type of a new genus, which may be termed
Heptabranchus, and which I have dedicated, by permission,
to Sir William Burnett, the Medical Director-General of
Hospitals and Fleets. The nearest approach to this pecu-
liar form of Doridida3 (Heptabranchus Burneltii,} appears
to be the animal named Doris Sandwichienne of the
"Voyage de la Bonite;"* but in that Mollusk the mantle

* Torn. 25, f. 1, 2.

HABITS OF MOLLUSKS. 495

entirely covers the foot, whereas in this type the foot ex-
tends beyond the mantle and behind it in the manner of
a Goniodoris. In the above-mentioned figures of the
Trench Naturalists, there are eight distinct branchial tufts,
but in this animal there are but seven, arranged in a semi-
circular manner around the projecting tubular fecal orifice,
so that in these singular Mollusks, the number of tufts
that constitute the branchiae seems to vary ; in the beau-
tiful Hexabranclms prcetextus of Ehrenberg, (Symb. Phys.
Mollusc. 1. 1, f. 1, 2,) the branchial tufts are six in num-
ber, and emerge from six distinct apertures around the
anal orifice, which, as in Heptabranchus, is prominent
and tubular.

Tropical Assimineas seldom or never live entirely in the
water; they love to frequent the soft muddy banks of
shallow ponds in shady places, or to crawl among the
roots of high grass on the low swampy banks of rivers.
The Telescopium lives among the Mangrove-roots in
brackish swamps, where, in some parts of the day, the
water entirely recedes and leaves the mud bare. Miles of
muddy ground beyond the range of the sea at high-water
mark, and kept moistened by dull trickling rivulets, are
planted with thousands of the large black Telescopium,
with their acuminated spires sticking out of the soil,
while the body and head of the animal are busily engaged
in seeking for food beneath the surface. The Terebralia
of Swainson loves the water more than the Telescqpium,
and lives nearer the sea in shallow ponds, and still, warm
pools, among the tangled Mangrove-roots in the society
of the Q,uoyia, or Leucostoma of Swainson. The Nematura
inhabits very shallow water in still and half stagnant

496 HABITS OF MOLLUSKS.

ponds, adhering generally to the under surface of dead
and decaying leaves that float suspended in the water near
the margin, but sometimes I have found them crawling
very slowly on the soft muddy banks, forming slender
tracks, as Nassce do, in crawling over the moist sand-flats
near the sea. Generally speaking the Auricula Juda
inhabits dark, damp woods, choosing the vicinity of
water, but I have, however, found them by hundreds
crawling over the moist mud of the Mangrove swamps.
They are blind, and appear to be most active in the
evening. At Monado, in Celebes, a species of Assiminea
covers the perpendicular banks of the river; the mud-flats
left exposed during low tide are covered with thousands
of Neritinas and Clithons : Melanias, of the long-spired
division live in the mud in shallow places with the water
just covering them; while Pirenas inhabit the bed of the
river in rather deeper water. Some Neritinas found by
me in this island, live among the foliage of tall trees, that
overhang ponds and rivulets; others cling to the roots of
Nepa palms and various trees near the margin; others
crawl on the stones in the water; many live in deeper
water, half-buried in the mud; a few in brackish water,
and others again in water perfectly salt.

Off Tampassook, several Ixas were obtained by the
dredge. They inhabit very deep water, are feeble and
inactive, and were it not for the dense solid carapace,
armed with strong lateral processes with sharpened points,
would be very defenceless animals. Two new species of
this rare and beautiful genus have been added by us to
Zoology. A new species of Parthenope, with large eyes
and the carapace ornamented with tuberculated ridges was

HABITS OF CRUSTACEANS. 497

obtained. This genus has precisely the same habits as
Lambrus, Cryptopodia, and others, simulating death when
alarmed, and retracting its members under the carapace.
A new genus the Ceratocarcinus (Adams and White) was
obtained off Balambangan in twelve fathoms of water,
having the same helpless appearance and inactivity of
habits, as Parthenope and Lambrus. The species (C.
longimanm, A. and W.) is of a blood-red colour with five
light bands across the carapace. The Cosmonotus (Adams
and White), another new genus, was obtained near Unsang,
on the east coast among the clear sandy pools within the
reef-barrier. It has the same habits as Hippa and
Remipes. The species (C. Grayii, A. and W.) is of a
brick-dust red colour and scarlet, minutely speckled,
with white legs and chelae. The Notopm dorsipes has
the same habits, and the Albunea, like the Hippa, seems
also to prefer the still water just within coral reefs, or the
small deep pools you find on steep rocky shores. Here
they swim rather rapidly in straight lines from stone to
stone, or from brink to brink, when they usually rest or
remain quite stationary. They seem to crawl badly, but
dart, like some spiders, on their prey from among the
weeds, or

" Under rocks their food in jointed armour watch."

The Zcbrida, a new genus of Mr. White and myself,
was dredged in about six fathoms from the mouth of
the Pantai river, on the coast of Borneo. It is a torpid,
though elegant little Crustacean, having all the apathetic
peculiarities of the Lambrus and Parthenope. The species

VOL. II. 2 K

498" HABITS OF MOLLUSKS.

(Z. Adamsii, White) is of a light pink-colour with dark
red-brown longitudinal stripes. It is perfectly smooth,
polished, and hairless. Lissocarcinus and Gonatonotus,
two other new Genera, besides numerous new species,
were likewise obtained along this coast.

The Chitons, in the tropics, appear to be more vivacious
than those found further north. If turned over on their
backs they will gradually bend their calcareous jointed
bodies in every direction, contracting and dilating their
ventral disk until they assume their natural position.
Their progressive motion is scarcely perceptible however,
the principal object apparently being again to fix them-
selves to the surface of the rocks which Nature has given
them to inhabit. Their food consists of Fuci and other
Algae, with which the rocks and stones are covered, and
their excrement is solid, and formed like that of an insect
in the larva state.

Among coral masses on this north-west coast of Borneo,
a large and handsomely-marked species of Vermetus was
found, the head of which is elongated, flattened, tapering
behind, broader in front where it is divided between the
tentacles into two lobes; the tentacles are compressed
vertically, conical in form, with the small sessile black eyes
situated at their outer bases ; the mantle, with a thick-
ened rim, forms a wide loose tubular sheath around the
sub-cylindrical body ; the foot is circular, but without ex-
hibiting any of those tentacular appendages usually ob-
served in this genus, the margin being simply thickened ;
the operculum is large, circular, flat, and horny, with
concentric elements ; and, when the animal is retracted,

REMARKABLE LARV.E. 499

entirely closes the aperture of the shell. The slight de-
velopment of the foot indicates the sedentary nature of
the animal, whose shell is firmly embedded among the
madrepores. The mantle which, in the ordinary condi-
tion, is closely applied against the walls of the shell, is
covered, like the entire surface of the body, with white
reticulated markings upon a rich deep chesnut-brown ;
while the thickened fleshy rim surrounding the foot is of
a delicate pink colour.

In the woods of Tampassook, the larva of a butterfly
forms a curious spherical nest out of the pinnules of a
species of fern. It bends down the leaflets, and fixes
them ingeniously by a glutinous thread ; the grub, at the
time of its incarceration, feeding on the verdant walls of
the cavity. I have found another larva which inhabits the
pod of a species of leguminous plant, and which, having
consumed its contents, forms a cocoon in the empty siliqua.
Another remarkable larva, belonging to an Oiketicus, or
Psyche, of the Lepidopterous family, Arctiida, forms a very
remarkable case or tent out of small dry pieces of sticks
and leaves, and being thus protected, crawls about the sur-
face of the foliage, consuming the parenchymatous tissue.
One of these was marbled pale yellow and black on the
head and first three segments; the rest of the body straw-
coloured, with two rows of small black dots on each side
above the spiracles. The case was lined with a soft, loose,
cottony down, composed of minutely comminuted vege-
table fibre.

The animal of M. Loven's genus, Cylichna, crawls very
slowly, moving by an almost imperceptible series of un-

500 HABITS OF SPIDERS.

dulations of the foot ; it has a peculiar habit of extending
the head, when a somewhat slender rounded peduncle,
resembling a neck, comes into view. By this means the
animal is enabled to move its head about in any
direction with ease and facility; the front part of the
foot is short and truncate, not elongated and dilated
in front, as in Sulla aplmtre and some others, and
behind it is furnished with two flattened lateral coni-
cal processes or tubercles, a peculiarity which I have
not observed in any other Sulla ; the lateral lobes ap-
pear to be entirely wanting, and the posterior lobe is
concealed within the shell, which, as in Sulla columna, is
altogether external.

The forms of Arachnida are as wonderful and as varied
in Borneo as in other parts of the world, but their study
is exceedingly difficult, and their bodies not easily pre-
served. In the forests, you will often perceive large
species, suspended high by a single thread to the leaves
and branches of the trees, of fantastically-formed Acroso-
mata, with their flattened, painted backs, and strange
spiny protuberances. I discovered at Sarawak a very
beautiful new species, which I have named Acrosoma tri-
virgulata. It is in form very near Gasteracantha trans-
versa, gemmata, andfornicafa (Koch, Tab. 113, fig. 259,
260, and 261,) but it is black, with three broad, trans-
verse, yellow bands on the abdomen, with numerous faint
annuli, and three bright yellow spots on the posterior
part. The thighs are banded with yellowish-green, and
the under surface is black, with bright oval yellow spots.
Like many others, it was found suspended by a thread

HABITS OF SPIDERS. 501

from a lofty tree, and, when taken, contracted its members
and simulated death. The nests of these spiders are as
extraordinary in form as the bodies of the spiders them-
selves, which, in numerous instances, they very much
resemble.

The section of Epeira with lobed abdomens, named
Argyropes, build beautiful webs in every part of the forest.
Some of them are very handsome spiders, shining with
gold and silver, and ornamented with elegant patterns of
crimson and yellow. A species of Plialangium, with
long legs of exceeding tenuity, may be frequently seen
hanging by its feet to the under surface of leaves, and
vibrating its body so rapidly, as to be at times undistin-
guishable to the eye. Nephilce of enormous size spread
their large nets very low in shady thickets, so that a man
in penetrating the forest will become entangled and more
annoyed by a spider's web than he will readily allow. It is
a fact constantly brought before the notice of the observer,
that those species of spiders that live on the bark of trees
are mottled grey and brown, and those which you find
upon the ground are altogether black or dingy-coloured;
while those living among flowers have beautifully varie-
gated bodies. How admirably, in these examples, is
shown the fitness of things, maintained even between
organisms usually deemed so abject, and the domains
they owe to ever-careful Nature ! It matters not much
whether we say the place determines the nature of the
animal, or whether the animal is adapted to the place,
although perhaps it is more pleasing to an observer of
nature to trace the harmonies and adaptations to an Intel-

•302 KABATUAN.

ligent Foresight, like the good St. Pierre, than to make
them merely the necessary results of a physical arrange-
ment of the earth's surface, like the ingenious author of
the " Vestiges of the Natural History of Creation."

Not very far from Tampassook, while we were surveying
a small bay, numbers of canoes came alongside for the first
time during ^our examination of this part of the coast, and
offered fowls, yams, and sweet-potatoes, in exchange for
empty wine bottles, which they seemed to covet in an
especial manner. These people were principally Malays,
very poor, very dirty, and very ill -looking ; they assured
us, however, that they were good men and not pirates,
and that their ruler or chief was a brother of Muda
Hassim and of the unfortunate Budduruddin, and in the
evening, a Pangeran arrived from the town, which he
called Kabatuan, situated up a river of that name, in-
forming the 'Captain that the Rajah was sick, and re-
quired medical assistance. I accordingly, with the per-
mission of Sir Edward, took a seat in the Pangeran's
canoe, and proceeded to visit the village. As we left the
ship, I noticed that all the Malays took off their krisses
and placed them under a mat, a proceeding, possibly, to
remind me of their friendly intentions. Escorted by
numerous canoes, we rapidly ascended the river to the
distance of about eight miles, at which point I found, on
tasting it, that it continued perfectly salt. Large and
strong stakes were here thrown across the river, and
suddenly turning short round, the boats entered a narrow
creek concealed in the left bank, where there was only
room for the passage of a single canoe at a time. Pro-

KABATUAN. 503

ceeding along this for some little distance, we suddenly
emerged, and entered another reach of the Kabatuan, and
after paddling for some time, came to shallow slimy mud-
flats, the whole of the natives here getting out, and sliding
their long canoes over the mud at a quick walking pace.
Once more launched upon the stream, which here ap-
peared a very deep river, particularly on the right bank,
I noticed a very large war-prahu, similar to those in use
among the Illanons, full of armed men, evidently prepar-
ing for some predatory expedition ; several sailing prahus
were likewise at anchor; and under a kedjang-shed I
observed a large newly-built sailing boat, probably of
twenty tons burden. How these craft came into this
part of the river is to me a mystery, as the natives seemed
to have brought me by one of the secret passages leading
to their haunt or hiding-place. The town is situated
among low jungle in a morass, with the river winding
about it at a little distance from the central mass of
houses. As I landed, a Pangeran took me by the hand
and escorted me to his house, where, seated on an elevated
platform, I was offered a cup of toddy and a long cigar,
formed of tobacco rolled up in a plantain leaf, which I
smoked to the evident gratification of some hundred Du-
suns, who probably had never before seen a European.
From this I was led across swampy ground, walking on
narrow planks and across slender bamboo bridges, to a
neatly-built square-shaped isolated edifice, where I was
introduced to the Rajah, who, shaking me by the hand,
begged me to be seated in an arm-chair by his side.
After ascertaining that his Highness was suffering

504 MUD A MAHOMMED.

merely from the effects of a slight debauch, I prescribed
something warm and stomachic, which I had brought
with me. Mr. Brooke, who on his first arrival at Sarawak,
had an interview with this brother of Muda Hassim, de-
scribes him as " a sulky -looking, ill-favoured savage, with
a debauched appearance, and wanting in the intelligence
of his brother, the Rajah." Muda Mahommed is a very
large man, inclined to corpulence, with a sensual coun-
tenance, and what gave him a somewhat peculiar appear-
ance, was the circumstance of his wearing no handkerchief
round his head, and his hair being cut quite short. The
" Hall of Audience," as usual in these cases, was crammed
with numbers of old, ugly, crafty-looking Malays, all squat-
ting on their hams, with their faces turned upon their
Chief; but peeping curiously in at the open doors and
windows were numerous Dusuns, a wild tribe that inhabit
the mountains of the northern parts of the island. The
Rajah informed me, with some emotion, of the cruel
murder of the noble-minded Budduruddin, and expressed
himself in strong terms concerning the character of Pan-
geran Usop, and concluded by hoping that Sir Edward
Belcher would proceed at once to Brunai, avenge the death
of his brother, and destroy the city. He asked me, more-
over, if I did not remember his younger brother to whom
he presented me, and I recognised him as having formed
one of the suite of Muda Hassim. Reposing in pic-
turesque attitudes upon the ground, or leaning on their
shields, and conversing in little groups around this so-
called palace, were some dozen Dusuns, a handsome and
prepossessing race of aboriginal Dyaks, whose name im-

THE DUSUNS. 505

plies, according to Mr. Brooke, that they are an agricul-
tural people, having a peculiar dialect of their own. In
person, the Dusuris are about the average stature of Ma-
lays and Dyaks, that is below the height of the generality
of Europeans, and their forms appeared to me very sym-
metrical and well-proportioned, particularly when con-
trasted with the large-headed, bow-legged Malays, who
seemed to regard them with supreme contempt, not per-
mitting them to enter and join in their conference. The
colour of their skin struck me as being very peculiar,
being of a dark, blackish, dull brown, more resembling
that of the natives of some parts of Hindostan than of
Malays and Dyaks in general ; their countenances have
a very mild, agreeable, and open expression, quite different
either from the sharp cunning peculiar to the tribes of
Serebus and Sekarran, or the grotesque good humour of
the wild, broad-faced Orang Sagai ; their eyes are large,
clear, and expressive; their noses straight and promi-
nent, but having the ala3 considerably developed; and their
mouths well formed, and not too large ; their teeth are
filed straight, concave externally, and stained black. In
those I saw, the hair was worn long behind, and flowing
down the back, cut straight in front across the fore-
head, and confined by a single fillet of white bark-
cloth. I did not observe that the bodies of any among
them were tattooed. The most extraordinary peculi-
arity, however, about these indigines, was the circum-
stance of their thighs, arid loins, in particular, being
encircled by great numbers of thick, bright, polished,
wire rings, which rattled as they moved, and gave them

506 THE DUSUNS.

a very singular appearance. Similar rings depended
from the lobes of their ears, and were worn around
their necks. They carried large shields, formed of wood,
and ornamented with tufts of hair, and were armed with
sumpitan and parang.

507

CHAPTER X.

MAUEITIUS TO ENGLAND.

Scenery and Vegetation of Mauritius — ^Estivation of Tropical Mollusca
— Great Indian Tortoise — Habits of the Dolabella — Singular spe-
cies of Bullsea — St. Brandon Shoals — The Cocoa-nut — Aspect of
the reef and islets — Sea-birds — Their habits and nidification —
Instinct in Fish — Animal of Ancillaria — Pelagic skeleton Crustacea
— Anomalous Zossas — Cypridina Adamsii — Habits of Janthina —
— The Carinaria and Atlanta — The Hyaleea and Cleodora — The
habits and development of the Argonaut — Insects at Sea — Con-
cluding Remarks.

MAURITIUS, so famous for its mountain of Peter Bott,
so immortalised by the sweet tale of Paul and Vir-
ginia, and so interesting to Zoologists in being the pro-
bable birth-place of that monstrous extinct pigeon, the
Dodo, is certainly a very beautiful island, abounding in
scenery of the most varied and delightful description,
any attempt to expatiate upon which, after St. Pierre's
glowing pictures, would be presumptuous. To fully
enjoy his exquisite little narrative, one should make a
sentimental pilgrimage, and wander from the Shaddock
Grove to the river of Fan-palms, from Cape Misfortune
to the Alley of Bamboos, and from the Pass of Saint
Geran to the bay of the Tomb, and what one misses in
sentiment, might be gained in contemplating the sweet
scenery of the island. No wonder such a charming spot

508 VEGETATION.

should have changed names and masters so often, with

O *

such advantages in climate, situation, and productiveness.
It has been called Swan Island by the Portuguese, Mau-
ritius by the Dutch, and Isle of France by "La Grande
Nation," for each has held it in rotation, and now the
British Lion's paw is on it. In the general character of
its vegetation, Mauritius is somewhat similar to that of
the Cape in the number of succulent plants, Cactuses,
Spurges, Aloes, House-leeks, Fig-marigolds, &c. Many
plants from Europe, Africa, Madagascar, and India are ac-
climated, and flourish well. Among others I noticed the
Cycas circinalis, Chrysanthemum Indicum, and the Ar-
gemone Mexicana, which notwithstanding its name, is very
common, and when in flower, its large yellow petals and
glaucous prickly leaves have a very pretty appearance.
Shady groves of Mango and dense masses of Mimosa
are met with, in short, nearly every beautiful tree of the
tropics. While staying at Port Louis, I accompanied Sir
Edward Belcher and Sir David Barclay some miles into
the interior, and spent a very delightful day at Sir
David's country house, a pleasant villa situated half-way
up a mountain, and surrounded with beautiful grounds.
Numbers of flowers, natives both of India and Europe,
flourished luxuriantly in the garden; the dry, prickly-
leaved Euphorbia of Madagascar, with the succulent-leaved
Mesembry anthem urns of the African coast; the sweet
Rose of Persia, with the wild flowers peculiar to the
island. The Heliotrope in dense masses, and the sweet-
scented Verbena in hedges, were contrasted with Mimosas,
Cassias, and Palm-trees. A stream of clear water from
the mountains ran through a channel, and filled tanks in

AESTIVATION OF TROPICAL MOLLUSCA. 509

various parts where numerous Physas, Succineas, and
Water-beetles were observed. In the wilderness at the
back of the villa, fine oaks formed natural summer-houses,
and groups of large trees, natives of the Mauritius, were
mingled with the Gourd and Coffee-tree. In the holes
of tree trunks, and under the decayed mass of leaves
which strewed the ground, we found numbers of a large
Achatina in a state of hibernation. The large Achatina
of the Mauritius, during aestivation, forms a strong,
dense white epiphragma during the dry season, and con-
ceals itself either in holes of decayed trees or under the
surface of the soil ; the Megalomastoma of Mindoro
closes its shell with its round horny operculum, and con-
gregates in numbers in fissures of trees some distance
from the ground; the Cerithium truncatmn, in Singapore
and Borneo, suspends itself by glutinous threads to dead
sticks on the margins of rivers ; the Caracotta of the
Philippines, hides under loose bark, where it adheres very
closely; the Cydostomata and Scarabi bury themselves
under the stratum of dead leaves with which the ground
is always covered; the Assiminete, Melanin, and Ampul-
larice, conceal themselves in the soft mud of ponds and
rivers ; the Nematura adheres firmly to floating sticks, and
to the under surface of leaves in stagnant pools ; the
snails glue themselves together, as they do in England,
and congregate in holes of rotten trunks; the Bulimi
adhere firmly to smooth branches and boles of trees; and
the Hdicina to the under surface of leaves generally in
an elevated situation. The Potomis and Telcscopium
bury themselves in the muddy Mangrove swamps, many
NcritincB do the same thing, and I have noticed in the

510 HABITS OF DOLABELLA.

island of Basilan a dark-brown species of Conohelix,
which conceals itself also in the soft mud, several inches
below the surface, among the roots of the Rhizophora
Mangle above high- water mark.

Man is not the only animal which has wandered by
chance or inclination from the old to the new world. The
great black Indian Tortoise, originally a native of Mada-
gascar and the Mauritius, is identical with that species
whose habits have been so admirably alluded to by Mr.
Charles Darwin, who describes it as inhabiting the low
islands of the Galapagos Archipelago. It is likewise
found in California, and I believe has been met with in
other parts of the west coast of South America. A
gigantic specimen of this Tortoise made a voyage to
England in the 'Samarang/ but unfortunately died
shortly after its arrival, in consequence, probably, of
injuries received during a gale in the Bay of Biscay.

The Dolabettts seem to love the still and rather shallow
water of creeks near the sea, where they congregate under
large stones, and in deeper water remain fixed by their
ventral disks to the surfaces and sides of submerged
rocks, in a collapsed and motionless state. They prefer
a gravelly or stony bottom, and at the rising of the tide I
have seen them crawl pretty briskly towards the shore,
when they proceed to the small shallow pools to feed upon
the sea- weed that abounds there. Having instructed the
boat's crew where to find the animal, and its appearance,
they waded up to their waists and soon returned with
considerable numbers of very large specimens which were
all deposited in a pool together, so that I had ample op-
oportunities of drawing and observing them.

SAINT-BRANDON SHOALS. 511

In a remarkable form of Butttea, found on the shores
of this island, the anterior lobe or cephalic disk is entirely
destitute of eyes or tentacular appendages; it is thin,
broad, flattened, dilated in front, on the same plane as the
foot, and continuous on either side with the lateral lobes ;
posteriorly where it joins the posterior lobe, it is deeply
indented, as in most Buttidce. The lateral lobes, large,
extended, and fitted for natation, partially overlap the
posterior lobe, are on the same plane with the foot, con-
tinuous in front with the indistinct head, and end
behind in a broad, truncated border, which is notched in
the centre. The posterior lobe which lodges the shell,
and contains the viscera, is rounded above, partly enve-
loped by the lateral lobes, and slightly notched behind.

L'ile Saint-Brande, situated to the north-east of Rod-
riguez, called the Saint-Brandon Shoals by the English,
and Cargados Garajos by the Portuguese, has derived a
few cocoa-nut trees from the latter island, which in its turn
obtained them from the Mauritius, according to St.
Pierre, who relates that when the philosopher Francois
Seguat and his unfortunate companions, formed in 1690
the first inhabitants of that little island, there were no
cocoa-nut trees on their arrival; but as if Providence had
invited them to remain there and cultivate it, the use-
ful and agreeable present of several germinating cocoa-
nuts was thrown ashore by the waves. He observes,
moreover, that these two islands although situated in the
course of a current, which, during the year, runs alter-
nately, six months towards one and six months towards
the other, had not communicated all the plants peculiar
to each. In the course of time all the small, scattered

512 SCENERY OF THE ISLETS.

islets of this extensive shoal will become united, and con-
stitute one large island covered with cocoa-nut 'trees.
Weh1 then, may we exclaim with Mr. Crawfurd when
speaking of that vegetable blessing, the cocoa-nut : "How
wonderful to discover this useful plant silently propagated
over many thousand leagues, among hundreds of barbarous
tribes of dissimilar languages, whose very names and
situations are unknown to each other!" How extremely
fortunate is the curious fact that the cocoa-nut should
grow the easiest, and thrive the most luxuriantly, always
near the sea coast, and with what pains has Nature, to
ensure a safe passage to the tender embryo, encased it in
a strong thick husk that will remain uninjured when
dashed upon the shore by the billows!

The general aspect of these small islets, thus formed out
of a huge reef in ihe middle of the ocean, is by no means
inviting. It is a wild and barren scene. The soil is sand,
and ornamented only by a few stunted shrubs; the sullen
ocean roars in the distance, and breaks over the barren
reef, and upon the beaches of the islands, in vast rolling
surges, while screaming all around, flocks of snow-white
tern, and long-winged gulls hover over the water, or
cover the bare ground as they sit brooding over their eggs.

On some of the low islets you could not walk without
crushing the marbled eggs, or treading on the callow
young, of Tern, Petrels, and Noddies. One species of
Puffinus, allied to P. fuliginosa, sleeps, by day, in bur-
rows formed by its feet in the sand, at the bottom of
which it deposits a milk-white egg, as large as a duck's.
It frequents the centre of the islands, and howls most
dismally all night long, making a mournful noise, like the

INCUBATION OF AQUATIC BIRDS. 513

cooings of doves, mingled with the waitings of the Chacal.
A beautiful Sterna, black above and white beneath, also
lays a mottled egg in the middle of the islands, about
two feet apart, on the bare ground. The female sits on
the egg and defends it stoutly. The young are spotted
white and brown, and run like little Partridges.
- Another large, dark, ash-coloured species frequents the
vicinity of the sea, and lays a large, oval, white egg, among
the loose stones, near the shore. The young are some-
times white, sometimes grey, and often black.

Another Sterna of smaller size, dark ash-coloured, with a
lighter coloured head, builds in the middle of the islands,
among the low bushes, constructing a rude kind of nest
of straw and leaves, forming a sort of platform. It
deposits one mottled egg, the size of a Pigeon's. The
young are grey or whitish. A small white species lays
a single egg (mottled and marbled,) close to the water's
edge, on a flat stone, quite exposed and unprotected.
The young are snowy- white, though occasionally greyish.
With all this incubation going on around, I could not
help thinking of Milton's description of a somewhat
similar scene, where he alludes to the birds in his "Pa-
radise Lost,"

" Hatching their numerous brood from th' egg, that soon,
Bursting with kindly rupture, forth disclos'd
Their callow young, but feathered soon, and fledge,
They summ'd their pens, and soaring th' air sublime,
With clang despised the ground, under a cloud ,
In prospect."

The Saint Brandon Shoals, abound with fish of every
description, which afforded a rich treat to the ship's com-
pany, who caught them in large numbers, alongside.

VOL. II. 2 L

514 SAGACITY OF FISHES.

Among others, I noticed Pomfret, Rock-cod, a species of
Gadus, of a splendid red, covered with round ultramarine
spots; the handsome_Z)zj0/0^n0^ bifasciatum, a small species
of Tunny, a Pelamis with transverse green bands, several
kinds of Sharks, the Serranus Jiexagonatus, and a splendid
Serranus of a chrome yellow, with broad blackish bands.
Snappers, marked with blue and yellow, and with silvery
bodies, and several species of Pelamis, Poropsis, Leth-
rinus, Chcetodon, Batistes, CkrysopJiris, and Mugil.

Saint Pierre, after alluding to the cunning of certain
flat fish which bury their large fins in the sand, and show
only their cheating side when the tide has receded, and left
them to await patiently its flowing, and thus elude the
notice of the fishermen, makes the following remark with
much glee : " C'est ce que je leur ai vu faire plus d'une
fois, encore plus emerveille de la ruse de ces poissons,
que de celle des pecheurs." The large Ray, which
was captured on the Saint Brandon Shoals after a hard
struggle, was of a bluish sand colour, and its back studded
with white tubercles, thus resembling very much in appear-
ance the bottom of the sandy coral patch on which it lived;
and a Skate pursued by a boat's crew over a muddy flat in
very shallow water at Basilau, was of a dirty yellow brown,
precisely the same colour as the place it was accustomed
to inhabit. I have noticed that among low coral reefs
where Pleuronectes are frequently found, their tails are
often ornamented with rather vivid colours, and their upper
sides marked with somewhat striking patterns, whereas
those that are half buried, as for instance in Manilla Bay,
are as dull and dingy, as the surface in which they are
found.

HABITS AND ASPECT OF ANCILLAHIA. 515

The nature of the animal of Ancittaria appears to be
not very well understood. M. Rang observes : " Animal
furnished with a lobe of the mantle covering the shell, in
other respects unknown." (Manuel de Mollusques, p. 227.)
Mr. Gray, founding his opinion on the figures of M. Quoy,
observes: " The shell is nearly sunk in the very large ex-
panded foot of the animal, which is deeply cut in on each
side in front. The siphon alone is exserted." It appeared
to me, however, when examining these animals, numerous
living specimens of which were dredged by us on the east
coast of Africa, that the lateral lobes or processes which
partially envelope the shell, are precisely analogous to
those of the Sulla, and are as much entitled to be called
the mantle, as are the loose expanded lateral folds which
cross upon the back of the Aplysia. These alar expan-
sions of the mantle are enormously dilated, the right one
is generally longer than the left posteriorly, and both curl
upwards and inwards during the ordinary progression of
the animal, and folding themselves on the shell, almost
entirely conceal it from view. At the anterior part, they
are in close juxta-position, in the middle they slightly
overlap each other, and posteriorly they are rounded and
open, and projecting beyond the spire, form a loose, open
sac. Anteriorly, the foot is produced, as in Natica and
Sulla, forming a cephalic disc, which however is divided
by a deep furrow or groove into two triangular lobes, and
separated from the lateral portions of the foot by deep
lateral clefts or fissures ; behind, the foot is slightly cleft
or bilobate, and below, it is furnished with a furrow in the
median line, and is smooth, wide, and provided with a
slimy, mucous secretion, another peculiarity in which it

2 L 2

516 SKELETON CRABS.

resembles Bulla. I have no doubt, moreover, that occa-
sionally the lateral membranous expansions are horizontally
extended, and that the animal is enabled to swim in the
same manner, as I have mentioned, as peculiar to some of
the Bulla tribe. The Ancillarice crawl with a sliding
motion, and with considerable celerity. As they glide
briskly along, the tubular cylindrical siphon only is visible.
It is directed backwards and upwards, and sometimes is
laid flat on the back of the animal ; while the two trian-
gular lobes placed anterior to the foot, are extended
laterally, and in front moving about and exploring the
ground like tentacles, and no doubt serving the same
purpose. It is rather surprising that such an active Mol-
lusk as the Ancittaria, should have been apparently de-
prived by Nature of sight, no eyes being visible to my
observation in the specimens I kept alive. The species
which were dredged by us from a sandy bottom, and in
about fourteen fathoms water, were of a dirty-white colour,
with dull, brown, elongated, oval blotches, rather sparsely
and irregularly distributed. In the enormous size of the
foot, and its being prolonged anteriorly and transversely
lobed in front, and in the shell being partly concealed in
the body of the animal, Ancittaria resembles Natica.

Among the pelagic skeleton Crabs may be ranked the
genera ErichtJtus and Alima, curious transparent shrimp-
like creatures, with spiny shields and elongated tails. I
have detected, among the number of those we obtained,
many new species. They are erratic and restless little
animals, and swarm on the surface of the Atlantic, when
the water is calm and tranquil. The Phronima, another
genus allied to them, is very frequently found inside the

TRANSPARENT CRUSTACEANS. 517

hollow, transparent bodies of the Beroe and other Medusae,
but whether the Phronima employs these Acalephce as
canoes to sail about in, or whether it lives parasitic on their
bodies, or feeds on the animalcules contained in them, I
am unable to determine. The Rhabdosoma armatwn
(Adams and White) had been hitherto found only in the
sea between Ainboyna and Van Dieman's land. The
head of this extraordinary Crustacean is terminated by a
snout or beak nearly as long as the body, and the tail is
furnished with three stylets as long as the muzzle, which,
added to its elongated form and enormous eyes, makes it
look like some imaginary fabrication, rather than a normal
production of Nature. It swims by suddenly straighten-
ing its stick-like body when in a bent position, and moves
either backwards or forwards. It is sluggish in its mo-
tions compared with other Hyperiadts. Another genus is
allied to Vibilia (Milne Edwards,) but has a more slender
conformation, and wants the thickened and cylindrical
superior antennae ; the four last segments of the body,
moreover, are more elongated, and differ from the rest.
The Phyttosomata, with their foliaceous, transparent cara-
paces, and diaphanous members, and of which we have
observed one or two new species, move about like the
ghosts of Stomapods. They are apathetic and sluggish,
notwithstanding their eyes being well-developed, and
their organization pretty complex, and in calm weather
may be taken with a net in large numbers floating on the
surface of the sea. Despite the fifteen species enumerated
by Edwards, those described by M. Guerin in the Voyage
de la Coquille and Mag. de Zool. for 1833, and those that
exist in the British Museum, there still remains much to

518 GROTESQUE CRUSTACEANS.

be known before a perfect monograph of the Phyttostoma-
tidte can be formed.

Notwithstanding that Crustaceology abounds in forms
sufficiently bizarre, those very singular paradoxes, the
Zoea, exceed them all in curious and fantastic shapes.
One form, which I have provisionally christened Zoea-
boops, would serve as an excellent model for a gro-
tesque monster in a pantomime : in fact, they all more
resemble phantasms than the ordinary organizations we
are in the habit of contemplating. I have noticed and
figured several varieties, and from the constant recurrence
of regular types among them, I should be inclined to
doubt the accuracy of Dr. Thompson's opinion, that these
whimsical-looking beings are merely the larvae of different
kinds of Crabs ; and this more particularly, as the Zoea3
are generally found in the high seas, where few of the
larger Crustacea are ever discovered, were it not for the
investigations of Rathke on the development of the Astacus
jluviatilis, and the additional testimony of Capt. Du Cane
and M. Joly, who have obtained similar results. I can
with certainty affirm that Megalopa is no true genus, as
1 have observed specimens in every stage of growth be-
tween the common type of Megalopa and that of ordinary
Brachyarous Crustacea. Among Entomostracous Crus-
taceans, small animals with natatory feet terminating in
two branches, and belonging to that division named
Cyproides, the bodies of which are enclosed in a conchi-
fonn carapace, which causes them occasionally to be mis-
taken for bivalve Mollusca, were several individuals of the
genus Cypridina, distinguished by having two elongated
eyes situated in the median line, about the middle of their

HABITS OF IANTHINA. 519

carapace. These rare and interesting little animals have
been ascertained by Dr. Baird, who has studied profoundly
this little known and difficult branch of Zoology, to be
specifically distinct, and he has done me the honour to de-
dicate them to me under the name of Cypridina Adamsii ;
they are the third and largest species known.

The eyes Qi lanthina are very minute, and terminal at the
end of a peduncle, the animal, in this respect, and in having
a long extensile proboscis and divided foot, resembles a
Strom bus. In the act of swimming, the dilated natatory
appendages of the mantle are kept fully expanded, but I
never observed them used in the same manner as the alar
expansions of theffyaltea, although, doubtless, in their pro-
gression through the water, their use is very great. The
vesicular float adhering to the posterior flattened division
of the foot, which is considered by some to be an extra-
ordinary form of operculum, has the egg-sacs attached
by short peduncles to the surface, and the female lanthina
appears to have the power of detaching that portion of
the float to which the nidamental sacs are fixed, which
then remains suspended on the surface of the Avater,
where, exposed to the influence of heat and light, the ova
undergo their ultimate development. Although we found
these beautiful Mollusks cast up by thousands on the
shores of the Me'ia-co-shimahs, I never observed them make
the slightest effort to crawl, but have frequently noticed
them adhering together in masses, attached by the ante-
rior part of the foot, which acts as a sucker. In company
with the thousands of lanthina swimming on the surface
of the South Atlantic, were innumerable little fish of the
genera Gonostoma, fcktbyococcus, and Scopclus, some of

520 HABITS OF ATLANTA.

which were of singular forms, and, in general, of a steel
colour. Among the pelagic heteropodous Mollusks, which
we found, in crossing the South Atlantic ocean, were vast
numbers of Atlanta, and numerous Carinariae. They are
crepuscular animals, like the Pteropods, and are furnished
with hyaline shells, of the greatest delicacy and beauty.
The Atlanta, with an elegant, glassy, spiral, carinated
shell, globose in one species, and flattened in the other,
is quite a sprightly little Mollusk, probing every object
within its reach by means of its elongated trunk, twisting
its body about, and swimming in every direction, by the
lateral movements of its vertical, dilated foot. I have
frequently seen them descend to the bottom of the glass
vessel in which they were kept, fix themselves there in
the manner of a leech, by their sucking disc, and carefully
examine the nature of their prison-house, by protruding
the front portion of the foot in every direction. The
shell of the globose species (Helicophlegma Keraudrenii of
D'Orbigny,) is nearly membranous, and becomes opaque
and shrivelled on exposure to the air; the compressed
species (Atlanta Peronii of Lesueur,) has a firmer and
more vitreous shell. Lamanon, one of the Naturalists who
accompanied La Perouse, considered the Atlanta to repre-
sent the shells of those extinct fossil shells the Ammonites,
to which, however, it has but a faint resemblance. Al-
though it is perfectly true that pelagic Mollusks generally
swim on their backs, in a reversed position, as lanthina,
Firola, Carinaria, and Atlanta, yet, in figuring them, the
analogy of the parts is better represented by placing them
in the position most common to animals of this class.
Thus the species of Scyllaa, Doris, &c., are never repre-

HABITS OF CARINAHIA. 521

sented in a reversed position ; nor are snails that lead an
arboreal existence. The vertical expanded part of the
body of Carinaria and Atlanta is sometimes erroneously
regarded as a fin ; and in the figures of Rang, Blainville,
and De la Chiage, which are in an inverted position, this
idea would, in the eyes of the uninitiated, be confirmed.
Although I have myself frequently seen them swimming
in this reversed position after capture, they frequently
progress feebly with the shell uppermost. When fresh
and just taken, I have seen both the Carinarits and
Atlanta swim with their bodies in every position on their
sides, on their backs, and with the foot downwards.
The Carinarice are swift and rapid in their movements,
and dart forwards by a continuous effort, moving their
foot and caudal appendage from side to side, as a
powerful natatory organ, and do not progress by sud-
den jerks, like the Atlanta and Hyalaa. In these parti-
culars, my observations are conformable with the state-
ments of M. Rang. The true analogue of the foot of
Gasteropods in Atlanta and Carinaria is the sucking disc
placed at the posterior part of the vertically -flattened
appendage of the body, but its use is circumscribed to
that of enabling the animal to anchor itself temporarily
to floating bodies when fatigued, therein offering an
analogy to the gasteropodous genera of Notarclius and
Scyllaa, which cling, in the same manner, with the back
downwards, to floating sea-weed. The shell of the Cari-
naria, like that of the Testacella and Cryptostoma, covers
only a small portion of the body of the animal, defend-
ing the more delicate organs ; and in this we see a wise
provision for permitting these pelagic Mollusks to move

522 HABITS OF PTEROPODS.

freely about, without being encumbered with a dense,
heavy skeleton. M. Rang offers, as a generic character,
the constant presence of asperities on the mantle ; but 1
think this will hardly serve, as I have figured a species
from the South Atlantic, which I believe to be new, which
is perfectly smooth, and totally devoid of any processes
on the mantle.

The mantle of C'leodora, like that of Hyalcea, is very
much dilated, and forms two swimming appendages, and
the intermediate lobe is semicircular; but there are no
elongated lateral expansions similar to those that emerge
from the slits in the side of Hyalaa. In many figures of
these animals, the swimming lobes are represented as
varying in form in different species, but from my obser-
vations, I should say that the lobes, Vandykes, and fold-
ings of the margin, are purely accidental contractions, and
that commonly the margins are entire. The animal of
Cleodora Byzantium has, when alive, the two swimming
expansions very much elongated laterally, rather slender
and rounded at their free extremities. In C. cuspidata,
they are shorter and rounded. The Hylcece, no doubt,
like the Amphibia among the reptiles, respire by the entire
cutaneous surface, which is so soft and permeable; al-
though, it is true, they have distinct breathing organs,
disposed in the form of an oval ring, between two layers
of the mantle on the dorsal region, which are open, to
receive currents of water transmitted by the lateral aper-
tures of the shell. The long, loose, lateral, pallial prolong-
ations, which these testaceous Pteropods protrude from
the lateral fissures of the shell, do not appear to be of
much use in guiding or propelling, which functions are

HABITS OF THE ARGONAUT. 523

performed by the wide alar expansions. They may assist,
however, in extending the surface of the mantle for the
purpose of aeration.

On our passage home, I had numerous opportunities of
observing the animals of Aryonauta tuberculosa, and A.
Mans, in the living state, both species having been cap-
tured by us in large numbers by means of a trawl as they
came to the surface of the South Atlantic, in calm weather,
at the decline of day, in company with Carinaria, Hyalcea,
Firola, and Cleodora. My observations all tend to prove,
as might have been expected, the accuracy of Madame
Power and M. Rang, and the fanciful nature of the
statements of Pliny, Poli, and the poets. It is quite true
that the female Argonaut can readily disengage herself
from the shell, when the velamentous arms become col-
lapsed, and float apparently useless on each side of the
animal, and it is equally certain that she has not the ability
or perhaps the sagacity, to enter her nest again, and
resume the guardianship of her eggs. On the contrary,
she herself, if kept in confinement, after darting and
woundinsr herself against the sides of the vessel she is

O D

confined in, soon becomes languid, and very shortly dies.
Numbers of male Argonauts were taken by us, at the
same time, without any shells, and this being the season
of ovoposition, may account for the females, in such a
number of instances, being found embracing their shell-
nests. As a convincing proof that the thin shell of the
Argonaut is employed by the female as a safe receptacle
in which to deposit her eggs, I dissected a specimen of
Argonauta tuberculosa, which was firmly embracing the
shell, which contained a large mass of eggs occupying the

224 OVIPOSITION OF THE ARGONAUT.

discoidal portion of the chamber, and the posterior portion
of the roof.* The eggs very numerous, ovoid, pale-
yellow, and semipellucid, are all united together by a
delicate, glutinous, transparent, filamentous web which is
attached to each ovum by a slender, tapering peduncle
fixed to one extremity. The entire egg-mass is suspended
to the body-whorl of the spire, at its anterior part, by
means of a pencil of delicate glutinous threads, which re-
tain it in a proper position.

On my return to England, I had an opportunity of
examining the figures which Poli has given us in his mag-
nificent work, "Testacea utriusque Sicilise," where he has
represented the egg-mass, though not in situ, but unra-
velled, f He observes regarding this body: "Ovorum
congeries eboris nitorem aemulantiuni, partim jam ab
ovario emissa, ac racemorum instar composita, cymbae
puppi involute adhaerebat.j" Professor Owen, in his
Lectures on Invertebrate Animals, mentions the same
fact ; he observes that "in the Argonaut, the minute ova
are appended by long filamentary stalks to the cavity of
the involuted spire of the shell, where they are hatched.**

The posterior, globular part of the body of the female
is in close opposition to the mass of ova, and thus, like a
strange aquatic Mygale, or other spider, does this re-
markable Cephalopod carry about her eggs in a light

* Tills calcareous nest of the Argonaut, so ingeniously formed by the
instinct of the mother for the purpose of protecting her eggs from injury,
thus resembles, in some measure, those nidimental capsules secreted by
many marine Gasteropods for the preservation of the immature embryos.

f Tab. xli. f. 2.
\ p. 10.

* * Lect. on Comp. Anat. of Inv. An. p. 360.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE ARGONAUT. 525

calcareous nest, which she firmly retains possession of by
means of the broad, expanded, delicate membranes of the
posterior pair of tentacles. When disturbed or captured,
however, she loosens her hold, and leaving her cradle to
its fate, swims about independent of her shell. There is
not, indeed, the slightest vestige of any muscular attach-
ment. In the specimen from which I made the drawings
which will be given in the "Zoology of the Samarang,"
the ovary was distended with ova, but in a much less ad-
vanced stage of development than those deposited in the
shelly nidus. Some of these latter were sufficiently
matured to enable me to trace, under the microscope, the
early indications of the being of the Argonaut, and al-
though I have not followed the process very far, it is
sufficient to ascertain the similarity, in a great measure,
with the changes observed by Poli in the same genus, with
whose remarks I have compared my own : the only differ-
ence, of any importance, appears to be, that Poli has
regarded as the shell what I have called the yolk-bag.
At first, the ova are semi-opaque, pale-yellow, and appa-
rently minutely speckled, which is owing to the granular
yolk seen through the delicate shell of the egg; afterwards,
they become clouded with light brown blotches, and three
dark spots make their appearance, one for each eye, and
one for the viscera; these spots, in the next stage, ap-
proach each other, and a faint outline of the future
Argonaut is perceived in the form of a club-shaped
embryo, rounded in front and tapering behind; the front
part then becomes lobed, a black mark for the horny
mandibles is perceived, and the eyes become large and
prominent. The yolk-bag or vitellus, is next seen very

526 THE ARGONAUT.

distinctly, and the processes, extending from the head, are
become more elongated. Here, however, I was obliged
to stop, this being the most perfectly-developed embryo
I could find among the ova. The eggs in contact with
the front part of the discoidal portion of the shell, where
the egg-mass is attached by the glutinous threads, are the
most forward in their development, while those in the
posterior part of the chamber, are much less matured.
Poli's account of the development of the ova is as follows:
"Ova quae in primis eburneo candore nitebant, tenui veluti
nubecula perfundebantur; mox bina puncta subrubentia
hinc et illinc sese conspicienda praebuerunt in regione
oculorum eaque deinceps protuberantia evadebant. His
perfectis, aliud punctum eodem colore perfusum prope ovi
fastigium oculos supereminens apparuit : quod quidem
oris embrionem satis luculenter ostendebat."*

There is considerable difference between the animals of
Argonauta tuberculosa and A. hians. In the A. tuberculosa
the sac-like mantle is more ovoid and elongated ; the head
is narrower; the infundibulum is broader, shorter, and fur-
nished, at the upper and anterior extremity, with two
conical prolongations ; the eyes are considerably larger,
and slightly more prominent; the tentacular arms are
much shorter in comparison, and of greater width, more
particularly at their basal portions. The suckers are much
larger, more prominent, and placed closer together. This
species varies also considerably in colour from A. hians.
The extremities of the brachia are marbled with deep red-
brown ; and, in the other parts, are covered with large

* Test, utriusq. Sicilise, &c., p. 10.

THE ARGONAUT. 527

irregular, oval, reddish blotches, each margined with a
dark colour. The circumference of the suckers is marked
with brown spots. The upper surface of the infundibulum
is covered with pale pink, rather scattered, and irregular
quadrate blotches, margined with a dark red-brown. The
mantle, on the dorsal surface, is densely sprinkled with
round and square spots of a chesnut-brown and crimson, of
different sizes. The velamenta are minutely punctulated
with crimson and red brown, and have a more bluish tinge
than those of A. hians. The under surface is mottled and
punctulated with dark chocolate on the arms, and on the
body, is marked with small, irregular, dark, red-brown spots.
In Argonauta hians, the body is more globose, and broader
from side to side, the head is much wider, and the ten-
tacles are narrower and more elongated. The suckers are
less elevated, smaller in comparison, and situated at a
greater distance from each other. The mantle is covered
with round spots and longitudinal linear markings, of a
bright crimson colour. The entire animal wants the
brown, dark appearance produced by the markings of
A. tuberculosa, and is of a lighter tinge and more delicate
appearance.

The following Epigram of Callimachus on a Nautilus
which addresses Venus, on having been deposited by
Selene as a votive offering of maidenhood in her temple,
though often alluded to by writers on Natural History,
has not, so far as I am aware, been hitherto rendered
into English. My readers are indebted for the present
version to my brother, Mr. Ernest Adams, who informs
me that it was the custom of the Greek girls, on arriving

528 EPIGRAM ON THE ARGONAUT.

at years of discretion, to consecrate to Venus the play-
things of their childhood :

" Once as a sailor-shell I sported o'er
The azure wave : but now on Smyrna's shore,
Cypris, I grace thy shrine — the darling toy
Of fair Selene and her childhood's joy.
If wandering winds breathed soft, my tiny sail
Was duly spread to catch the summer gale :
If golden calm upon the waters came
My nimble feet were oars ; and hence my name :*
I cast myself on Julis' shore, that thou
Mightst glory, Cypris, in the maiden's vow.
No radiant Halcyon now with azure crest
Will seek my chambers for its sunny nest.
Thank fair Selene, then, whose virtues grace
The city of her proud .ZEolian race."

Becalmed off the African coast, some hundred miles
from the land, large numbers of insects were perceived
floating on the surface of the water, some Acrydia and
Locusts being still alive. A large species of Colymbetes
was taken quite perfect ; but other singular forms, as
Coreus, &c., were more or less injured by the action of
the water. These were blown by the off-shore breeze,
most probably from flat, sandy tracts, where there is but
little shelter and few trees. More than one species of
Halobates was seen swimming on the calm water, in the
manner of Gerris and Geometra, by sudden jerks. This
insect however appears, if not pelagic, to be at least
altogether marine.

* Polypus — many-footed.

529

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

" When a traveller returneth home," says Bacon, " let
him not leave the countries where he hath travelled alto-
gether behind him." Acting up to this excellent advice,
I have, in the preceding Journal, written at the time, and
generally on the spot, thrown together notes on the habits
of various animals, and a few ethnographical and physical
remarks on the inhabitants of the countries visited during
the expedition of the Samarang ; and with these I have
interspersed, here and there, desultory botanical observa-
tions, and short descriptions of natural scenery. Being
but an amateur Naturalist, and not extensively ac-
quainted with the bibliography of Zoological science, I
have seldom ventured to give more than the name of the
generic group to which the animals I have alluded to,
respectively belong. The scientific results of the voyage
will be brought before the public in the " Zoology of
the Samarang," now preparing for publication.

The researches of various nations in the Indian Archipe-
lago, and among the islands of the Chinese Seas, instituted
by the wise liberality of European governments, or sug-
gested by the pious zeal of philanthropic men, have been
gradually revealing numerous interesting and important
phenomena in the history of that comparatively unknown
world. The wonderful and mysterious forms of animal
and vegetable life that enliven those ocean-gardens, and
the physical and social peculiarities of the various tribes
that inhabit them, are daily becoming more familiar to

VOL. IT. 2 M

530 ' CONCLUDING

the reading public. Our political connexion with the
Chinese coast, has invested the numerous tribes, that
throng the approaches to their ports, with an interest
they never possessed before ; and the recent cession of
Labuan has, perhaps, laid the foundation of a British
interest in those seas, that may materially interest the
future destinies of our eastern possessions.

All over the world Creative Intelligence has thrown
organic matter into living forms of such interest and
beauty, that the "divina particula animi," which ren-
ders man

" Lord of the wide world and wat'ry seas,
Endu'd with intellectual sense and soul,"

cannot fail to observe them, and, having observed, to
appreciate, and endeavour to make others appreciate them.
Now, being engaged in the survey of seas hitherto but
imperfectly explored, and in the examination of islands,
many of them barely known beyond their existence on
the charts, it is hardly to be wondered at, that our harvest
has been plentiful and our researches crowned with suc-
cess. And really, when among those chosen individuals,
who are destined, " mid sands, and rocks, and storms,
to cruise for pleasure," I observe any of their number
pass unheeded by such golden opportunities as they might
enjoy, I am apt to exclaim with Beattie's Minstrel,-—

" O, how canst thou renounce the boundless store

Of charms which Nature to her votary yields !
******

O, how canst thou renounce, and hope to be forgiven !"

Keen perceptions of the sublime and beautiful in nature,
constitute in an intelligent mind one of the most pleasur-

REMARKS. 531

able sources of human enjoyment ; and I agree with what
Pythagoras is reported to have said in his conversation
with Leontius, that " as there is nothing more noble than
to be a spectator without any personal interest, so, in this
life, the contemplation and knowledge of nature are infi-
nitely more honourable than any other application." My
opportunities of ascertaining the existence, and defining
the limits, of those centres of organization said to exist on
the surface of the earth, and which researches into the
geographical distribution of plants and animals tend to
elucidate, have been very limited • indeed a Naturalist, in
a ship, may be compared to a bird of passage, which, re-
posing here and there in the course of its flight, gathers
a stray grain or so, and is off in a moment ; nor must the
remark of Bernardin de Saint-Pierre be lost sight of:—
" La nature est infiniment etendue, et je suis un horn me
tres-borne."*

With reference to the natural history of the Philippines,
that sagacious and most indefatigable traveller, Hugh
Cuming, Esq., has anticipated us in many points ; and in
the China Seas, the elaborate researches of De Haan and
others, have left us little more to do than follow in their
footsteps. A parting word in extenuation of the style I
have adopted in the preceding Summary, and I respect-
fully take my leave. It is, I think, right, that in the pre-
sent reading age, the Naturalist should impart to the

* The multifarious avocations of the Naturalist are thus pleasantly
alluded to in a letter written by De Lamanon, one of the unfortunate
Zoologists of the Expedition of La Perousc : " I have fish to anatomize,
quadrupeds to describe, insects to catch, shells to class, events to relate,
mountains to measure, stones to collect, languages to study, experiments
to make, a journal to write, and Nature to contemplate."

2 M 2

532 CONCLUDING REMARKS.

public some of the amenities of science, as well as those
results of graver studies, which can necessarily be appre-
ciated by but few. What a pleasant halo, for example,
has Darwin thrown around the Linnsean system of Botan-
ical arrangement, by bestowing on us his " Botanic
Garden!" White of Selbourne, Waterton, and Mudie
have bestowed the same bright charm on Ornithology,
Johnson on Zoophytes, and Mantell on Geology. It
savours of melancholy to admire beauty only in termino-
logies, and, as Alfred Tennyson observes,

" See no divinity in grass,
Life in dead stones, or spirit in air."

533

A BRIEF

VOCABULARY OF LANGUAGES,

IT was my original intention to confine the following Vocabulary
simply to those words which would have served as comparisons
for Philological purposes, and the observations of Mr. Adams
applied directly to that object. The materials in my possession
appeared, however, of so much importance to seamen visiting
the regions to which the Vocabulary referred, that it has in-
sensibly swelled in volume to its present dimensions ; and will,
I trust, serve the purpose of aiding visitors in obtaining supplies,
or in making known either distress or important wants. It
is not given with any pretension to a knowledge of the various
languages of which it is composed ; all I claim is a most scrupulous
attention to the authorities from which it has been compiled, and,
from the nature of the very conflicting documents, a labour far
beyond what I had anticipated.

The work was commenced amongst the Islands of the Eastern
Archipelago, with the intention of completing, as my own study
should qualify me, a general Vocabulary for those regions and
upon the most extended scale. Our return before this could be
carried out, compelled me to cut off the work at the point to which
it would be useful to the Philologist ; and in this state only it now
appears, although more extensive materials remain for further
pursuit. I will, therefore, merely state the authorities which have
been consulted, and trust my production to the mercy of critics,
as a melange of well-authorized words in their several language!*.

534 VOCABULARY

The Sooloo terms were obtained from perhaps the purest source
in Sooloo, viz. from the Datoo Danielle and his family. The
Malay printed characters being placed before them, they first pro-
nounced the Malay word, as exhibited in English characters, and
then gave the corresponding term in the Sooloo language. As
this was frequently repeated in the same work, similar relative
terms, given by separate members of the family, served to check
mistakes. In the Malay terms I have adhered to Marsden's
Dictionary, although the Dutch Dictionary, as well as the Voca-
bulary of the College of Malacca, varies considerably, especially in
the use of i : thus, we have for black, Htam, itam, and etam ; the
latter is that of Marsden ; it is at variance with the Malay sound,
for which I should prefer itam. The Bisayan, Iloco, and Cagayan
are partly taken from the work on the " Klipinas " before alluded
to, as well as from my own notes, aided by the Padres of Batan,
and my friends at Manila. To the Padres of Batan I am indebted
entirely for the language of that Island, great part of which was
written by them for the use of the newly-arrived Padres. The
Tagala has been derived from a very complete work published
in 1796. The Chinese is from a Vocabulary by the American
Missionary, Dr. Bridgeman ; and the Korean and Japanese from
publications by Medhurst, 1830, and Philo Sinensis, 1835, at
Batavia. The three latter languages being rarely understood
without the written character, may not be so completely useful to
the traveller ; but I have had sufficient experience of their value
to know that the natives will comprehend if they wish. It is
invariably the practice of these people to affect great mystery
about their spoken language ; they will not understand unless it
suits their purpose or interest, and this most especially with the
Japanese

Trusting my efforts in this cause will be received with simply
the credit due to a collector of scraps, and hoping that it may
prove useful to the traveller, I leave it to its fate with the following
observations of Mr. Ernest Adams.

OP LANGUAGES. 535

INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS

ERNEST ADAMS, ESQ.

THE peculiar discovery of our own age, that comparative philology
must ever constitute an important agent in any investigation
into the ancient history of a nation, must shortly test its value
and accuracy by an analysis of the scattered dialects of the
East, and a careful comparison with the oriental branches of the
Indo-European family of languages ; and whoever contributes, in
however limited a degree, to the prosecution of these researches,
is entitled to the thanks of all who are interested in historical
speculations. The collection and publication of vocabularies by
those, whose peculiar position and pursuits have afforded them
facilities for the acquisition of such information, are always valu-
able. It should be the especial care of gentlemen commissioned
to explore regions comparatively unknown, not merely to accumu-
late the beautiful forms of organic life, and information of a
commercial and political value, but to secure, by a copious collec-
tion of vocabularies, and a careful examination of the physical
characteristics of the people, materials for tracing their social and
political existence in ages of which the recording monuments
have long been lost. When the usual beacons of the historical
explorer are extinguished and the land-marks destroyed, Compa-
rative Philology discovers in the mystic thread of language, a
guide through the perplexing labyrinth; the darkness becomes
less palpable ; the forgotten and unrecorded actions of tribes and
nations, mighty and enterprising when the world was young,
emerge, life-like, from the obscurity of ages. Comparative Philo-
logy is to the Ethnographic explorer what Comparative Anatomy
is to the Geologist. If a few scattered fragments are given, the
lost marvel of a former epoch may be re-produced.

536 VOCABULARY

Influenced by this feeling, Sir Edward Belcher has resolved
to submit to the public the following vocabulary, which he
collected during his intercourse with the oriental islanders. They
consist of specimens of the Tagala, Iloco, Bisayan, Batan, Sooloo,
Japanese, Chinese, and Korean, with the corresponding words
in Malay, English, and Spanish.

It is' of course unnecessary to remind the professed philologist
of the indisputable fact of the identity in origin of all the languages
of the Indian Archipelago and of the South Pacific; but the
general reader may perhaps require a brief intimation of the fact,
and of the relative position of these various dialects in the great
Malayo-Polynesian family.

The Tagala, or more properly Gala, (ta being, according to
Dr. Leyden, merely the article,) the most ancient and wide-spread
of the dialects of the Philippine Group, is, perhaps, the most
remarkable member of the Malayo-Polynesian family. Its orga-
nism is by far the most perfect; its inflexions are most fully
developed ; and its peculiarities are retained in a state of greater
purity and freedom from admixture with foreign elements, than
is usually to be found in the case of those tribes who have been
exposed to the disturbing influences of Arabic and Spanish
connexions. The structure of the language has been examined
with great industry, and its elaborate and perfect organization
successfully elucidated, by Baron W. Von Humboldt, in the course
of the interesting inquiries contained in his ' Kawi-Sprache/ " I
commence," he observes (vol. ii. p. 315. § 16.) "with the Tagala;
because it may be assumed as the primitive language and original
source of the rest, inasmuch as it contains the peculiar structure
of these languages in the clearest and most perfect form. It
embraces collectively all the forms of which only solitary examples
are discovered in the other dialects, and has preserved them, with
very trifling exceptions, unmutilated and in perfect analog}'."

The grammatical structure of the language, although not gene-
rally known to philologists, is still accessible to all who are ac-
quainted with German literature ; but I am not aware that any
further attempts have been made to form a Dictionary and to
supply the curious enquirer with comparative tables, than a few

OF LANGUAGES. 537

vocabularies of limited extent, scattered through the writings of
the Spanish missionaries, many of whom were acquainted with
the language, and have translated several religious works into
Tagala.

The structure of the Bisayan dialect, spoken in the islands of
the Bisayan Archipelago, part of the Philippine Group, is similar
to that of Tagala ; " der allgemeine Typus beiden derselbe ist/'
says Humboldt. But, though cognate languages in origin, the
Bisayan differs as a dialect from the Tagala. The examples
adduced in the comparative tables amply demonstrate the close
connexion between them.

The Iloco, another Philippine dialect, spoken in certain parts
of the Island of Luzon, stands in the same relation to the Tagala,
as the Bisayan; but its local distribution appears to be much
more confined.

The Batan, or Bashee, is spoken by the inhabitants of the small
group of islands of that name, lying to the north of the Philippines,
and, as may naturally be supposed from the geographical position
of the islands, is closely allied to the Tagala. Indeed, the in-
habitants are stated to have been a colonial off-shoot from the
powerful neighbouring tribes of Luzon.

The Suluk, or, as it is commonly written, Sooloo, is certainly
identical in origin with the other members of the Malayo-Poly-
nesian family ; but is more widely separated from the Tagala than
either the Bisayan or the Iloco. We shall presently see that it
presents points of identity with the Tagala on the one hand, and
with the Bornese Dyak on the other.

There exist various and striking peculiarities in the physical
appearance of the inhabitants of nearly all these islands; those
dwelling in the interior and on the mountains, usually exhibiting
a different conformation from those on the plains and the sea
coast. But in spite of these physical peculiarities, there can be
little doubt of the actual identity, at a remote period of the world's
history, of these mountaineers with the Malays and other tribes
that have settled on the coasts, and colonized those portions of
the islands with the usual daring and success of a maritime people.
Even the Dyaks of Borneo, whose language and external appear-

VOL. n. 2 N

538

VOCABULARY

ance have led many enquirers to consider them as a race distinct
from the Malays and the tribes inhabiting the neighbouring islands,
must have been indebted to some common parent-stock for the
language they now possess. Consider the following comparative
table of Suluk, Malay, and Dyak words, a table which might
readily be extended, but which is sufficient for our purpose.

COMPARATIVE TABLE.

English.

Suluk.

Malay.

Dyak.

Sun

mata suga

mata ari

mata su

Moon

bulau

bulan

bulau

Hair

bohook

rambut

bok

Head

66

kapala

uho

Ear

taingah

telinga

telinga

Eye

mata

mata

mata

Nose

hilung

idong

idong

Mouth

simud

mulut

mulut

Teeth

ipuu

gigi

jipun-nipuu

Tongue

lilah

lidah

dila

Leg

bitis

kaki-betis

kake-betis

Foot

siki

kaki

kaki

Wife

banah, sawah

bini

sawa

Father

ama

bapa

ama

Mother

inah

ma

inna

Sea

lau ood

laut

laud

Star

bitoon

bihtang

bitang

River

soo bah

sungei

sungei

Wind

angin

angin

angin

Deer

umbun

umbun

ambun

Hog

babici

babi

babi

Gold

amas

amas

amas, mas

Iron

basi

besi

besi

Salt

asin

masin

siah

Black

mai toom

clam

mitum

This table places the Suluk language in close connection with
that of the Dyaks. It would be easy to construct a similar table
to prove its identity with the Tagala language.

It is time, then, that the medium of intercourse with these
nations, the various dialects spoken among the islands, should

OP LANGUAGES. 539

arrest the attention of the Philologist, and undergo that patient
and careful investigation, which the importance of the subject
demands. The inhabitants of these seas, scattered in dense masses
over a large portion of the eastern world, and connected for so
many centuries with the interests and political prosperity of
European nations, have, till very recently, occupied an ambiguous,
and perhaps false, position in our ethnographic and philological
charts.

540

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

ABDOMEN

abdomen

prut

tian

Able

habil

kwasa

manjadi

Above

arriba

de-atas

sa itaas

hata as

ngato

Abundant

abundante

limpah

mata aoud

Acid

acido

masam

mas 1 nn i

Act (to)

hacer

buat

hinang

Aged

viego

tuah

tigulang

ma as

lakai

Alike

igualmente

sama

sab lib

Alive

vivo

idup

bohih

All

todo

samoa

angtanan

kataau

Mini n

Alone

solo

asa

usra

mey me

Also

tambien

lagi

naman

castame

Always

siempre

santiasa

gihapon

agnana^

Anchor

ancla

sauh

bojae

Anchor (to)

anclar

labuh

bogan

And

y

dan

i van

Anger

ira

amarah

mangah mah

mangah

Approach (to)

acercar

ampookan

Arm

braao

langan

Arrive

llegar

sampei

abul

aso ma toug

ida date

Assist

ayutar

na no nolong

BAD

malo

jahat

dautan

manghi, jahat

daques

Bamboo

bamboa

bambu

Bay

bahia

teluk

looc

loo-ooc

Bed

cama

tampat tidor

higdaan

pug tu gan

idda

Before

delante

demuka

sa atubangan

hahaapau

sango

Behind

detras

de blakang

sa licuran

ha tai ikood

licudan

Behold

mirar

pandang, tinju

mirar

atood, koang

mirar

Believe

creer

perchaya

mag too

ahagadkah

panang

Belly

vientre

prut

tian

Below

abajo

de bawah

sa obos

habawab

baba

Better

mejor

ebih baik

labing ma ayo

bukon mariaou

nasaysa

Bird

paxaro

burong

lungam, mauuk

mauuk

tumataj

Black

negro

etam

maitirn

maitoom

nangisi

Blood

sangre

da rah

dugu

dugu

darat

Blue

azul

biru, etam

azul

bilu

azul

Boil (to)

cocer

masak

mag luto

bookal

panglut

Bone

hueso

tulang

boo-koog

Both

los kos

ka-dua

Boy

muchacho

anak laki-laki

anak oosoog

541

OF LANGUAGES.

Satan.

Cog ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

budek

tiyan

tufa

footoo bara

pai

ma

nang

no woo, yokf

noong har

utuu

itaas

tsai shang

oo-ye-ni

66s

racug

hilab

fan shing

amata

na oor

asim

swan

soo-yu-ki

swir

mamarin

gaud

tso

o-ka-naf

har

lakalakai

matanda

lau nien

oi, to si yo ri

noor koor

camucha

siang tung

o-na-zi-si

ban ka tsi

buhay

kwoh tung

ugamin

lahat

kiai

mi na

moo root

laman

ysa

tu yi

hoor

caan

cunepaga

iiEiman

yi

ma-da

tto

mafuga

tuituina

chang shi

it-te-mo

myon myon

sao

nau

i-ka-ri

tat

koo 66 te i

i-ka ri 6 ros

p'ho tyong

caan

at

ping

de, to-woo-si-te

mar ni oor

cailot

enojo, galit

nu ki

i-ka-ri

poon har

mipangsen

cohit

king kin

tsootif

lim har

quiguddian

camay

shau pi, hi

hi zi

p'har

sinalien, mauara

lubbe

dating

tai tau

i-tar

ta ta roor

tolong

siang pang

torit

poot toor

maraghet

marakai

masama

tai

warsi

mo tsir

ka oo ai an

cauayan

chu, tsik

ta-ke

tai

kana ian, banua

looc

hai wan

ha-ma

moor koo pooi

ichigan

aguiddan

banis?

chuang

yoo-ka

sang

arubang

sa harapau

tsung tsien

ma-ye-ni

arp

licuc

licurran

hau mien

no-tsi-ni

tooi

paca, singan

kan

mi-ka-her

por

manguruc

manioala

sin

zin-sur

sin t'hyong

bndek

tiyan

tufu

ha-ra

pal pok

gucah

ibaba

hia, ka

sitani

arai

mapipia

curuga mapia

maigni

kang hau

yori yokf '

ts'har a ri

mamauu

ibon

niau, ty5

to-ri

sai

mabaghen

manguiu

maytim

hi, kok

kfoo-ro-si

ko moor

daga

dugu

bine

tsi

p'hi

majah, buhun

fucca

bughao

an

ha-na

tsok

cugatea

palutu

magluta

chiu

ir', nir',

sar moor

tughan

ku tau

ho-nc

spyo

sira da dua

quita

liang ko

foo-ta-bc

too

mudeg

bat a

tung tsi

moos-ko

syo tong

542

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloeo.

Bread

pan

roti

tinapay

apain

tinapay

Break (to)

romper

patah

mag quisi

bag-bag, bilak

pauang piguis

Breast

pecho

dada

dag hah

Bring

traer

bawa

dalhin

da hah

panang ipan

Brother

hermano

sudara laki laki

igsuon uga laqui

cabsat a lalaqui

Bullock

huey

sapi kasim

vaca

baca

Burn

quemar

bakar

mag sunug sagar

panang urum

Butter

manteca

mantega

tambok mantecilla

manteca

Buy

comprar

bill

mag pal it ; bii

igagatang

CALF (of leg)

pantorilla

jantong betis

jantong bitis

Calico

calicad

kain putih

kain putih

Call

llamar

panggil

tawang

Calm

calma

tedoh

li noh

Cape

cabo

tanjong

duhul tandoh

Careless

descuidado

lalci

ma la lei

Carry

llevar

pikul

mak dar

Cat

gato

kuching

kuting

Catch

coger

cangkap

sag gow

Chain

cadena

rantei

Change (to)

cambriar

ubah

ganti

Channel

canal

trus-an

Cheap

barato

murah

mulah

Cheat (to)

enganar

kichu

Chief

xefe

kapala

Child

infante

anak

anak

China

China

benua China

Choose

elegir

piilih

mag pii

City

ciudad

negri

longsod

ilis

Clean (to)

limpiar

mra-chuchi

paghauan

panagdalus

Clean

limpio

chuchi

mahanan

soo-chi

nadalus

Clever

diestro

pandei

pendei

Coal

carbon de piedra

areng

Coarse

basto

kasar

mai laag

Coast

costa

darat

Cock

gallo

ayam jantan

manuk oomagok

Cocoa-nut

coco

kalapa, nior

boo tong

Coffee

cafe

kawah

Cold

Mo

sejuk

matugnao

ma hig goot

nalamec

Colic

colica

sanak-prut

Come

venir

datang

marikau

Conduct

conducir

antar

dalhin

panangitulid

Cook (to)

cocinar

memasak

boo kal

Copper

cobrc

tambaga

tumbaga

tumbaga pula

OF LANGUAGES. 54g

Satan .

Cagayan.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

itinapi

tinapay

tinapay

mien pau

man zyoo

man too

magatta

punitin

ta lau

ya-boor'

p'ha har

[batabat

dibdid

hiung

moo-ne

ka sam

maghap

apau onu ina

hatu

na lai

mo-tsi kitar

it koor

vagui

capatid

hiung

oho a-ni

a a, mat

baca

nuang

baca

tu

0-008

syo 66

matenten

manugui

masonog

shau

yakf, takf

poor poot t'hoor

taba

niu yah

magattan

bumili

tan

ka-oo

sar

altec

binti

kioh nang

tsoo-to zoo-ne

zyoon ho

wa-ta

yoon p'ho

nauuag, tavagau

tawag

kiau

yob'

poo roor

mag teng

calinauan

fung tsing

yo-soo-si

ko yo

bahan

ougot

hai kioh

sa-gi

alisaga

liau tsau

boo-yo-oo zin

too moor

kyangay

hatir

tiau

hi-naf

mer

pusac

pusa

mau'rh

ne-ko

koi

sagap

tsoh

to-ra-gur'

tsam oor

talicala

lien

kfoo-sa-ri

palit

kai

ka-war'

pyon har

masupit

shui kang

se-to

mapunis

mora

kiii ti

ya-soo-ro

ts'hyon har

cantap

daya

kwang pien

a-za-mookf

so kor

dato

tau jin

s'ya-oo-gfoon

kwi syoo

mudek

aro, indong

ying 'rh

ko, yfi ya

hai a

Chung kwoh

Ka-ra tsi-na

Tsin na

mamidi

halal

sinen

e-rab

kar hir

li

ili

bayaa

clung

ini-ya-ko

syong

putauseu

mama carenu

paliir

si kau tsing

ki-yo-moor'

ssi soor

manamoiuamo

marenu

malinis

lung kau tsing

i-sa-gi-yo-si

tso hor

pantas

ling li

ka-si-ko-si

o tsor hyou

mci tan

i-si-'zoom

soor

mataba

macapal

tsii

a ra-si

koor koor

bay bay

hai pin

na-gi sa

moor kit ts'yo

sasabuugau

sasabungin

ki kung

ui-wa-to-ri

tiirk

onioy

niyog

yedsz'

ya-si

kia fi

manamonamo

maluinin

mapagui

lang

soo-zoo-sikf

so noor

saquit tiyaii

tiitung

fookP tsoo-oo

kwak i.-i n

may

pangaling

lai

kT-tiir'

or

panguiangay

rnaghatid

hing wei

8!i-sid.s'

hir

loto

clui

uir'

sar moor

tumbaga

tung

do-oo

koo li

544

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

Cough (to)

toser

batok

oo boh

Cover (to)

cubrir

tutup

tutup

Cramp

calambre

ka kras an

banhood

Crooked

corvo

bengkok

bing kok

Cry (to)

gritar

tangis

nagtangis

Current

corrieute

arus

soog

Customary

acostumbrado

biasa

biak sah

Cut (to)

cortar

potong

magpotol

o-too rung

pananguped

DAILY

cotidiano

s'ari s'ari

hadlaou hadlaou

Danger

peligro

bhaya

Dark

obscuro

galap

madoom

Daughter

hija

anak perampuan

ane nga babai

anak babai

anak a babai

Day

dia

ini

adlau

hadlau

million

Day (to-day)

hoy

ini ari

caron adku

hadlau

ita

Dead

muerto

mati

patai

miatainah

masakit

Deaf

sordo

tuli

bi soo

Dear

caro

inahal

mahal

mahal, mabal

nangina

Deceit

engano

daya

oolah

Deep

hondo

dalam

maldoom

Deer

venado

rusa

oo-sah

Demand (to)

demandar

minta

Desire (to)

desear

andak

pag panchinaot

mabayah

panangessem

Detain

detener

menahan

Devil

diablo

shetan

Die

morir

mati

patay

matei

ipapatay

Different

diferente

lain

Difficult

dificultad

sukar

masusah

Dig

cavar

gali

mag ka loot

Dirty

sucio

chumar

mahugao

naraguit

Disperse

esparcir

cherrei berrei kan

f loo ma ang
\boo tas sar

Dive

bucear

scllam

loo moo doop

Divide

dividir

cherrei

magbaghi

Do

hacer

buat

Doctor

doctor

dukun

Dog

perro

anjing

iru

idu

aso

Door

puerta

pintu

la wang

Dream (to)

sonar

ber mimpi

tagai noop

Drink (to)

beber

mTniiirt

mag inum

mi noom

iyi num

Drown

ahogar

tinggalam

maloo nood

Drum

tambor

gandarang

Drunk

borracho

mabak

nahiliik

Dry

scco

kriug

mainala

matahai

namaga

OF LANGUAGES. 54

Bat an.

Cog ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

mangau

obo

Iiui sau

si-wa-mookf'

taquip

o-yuf

kai tsi

ngimi

chau kin ching

ko-moo-ra

mabacut

buloctot

kin ti

tsoo-boo-sa-ni

koo poor

altec, mililiac

binti

kioh nang

nakf

oor

riess

agos

ogali

kwei ku

foo-oo-sokf

magappo

putfilin

koh

war', kir'

sa kir

toiling arao

mei ji

fi go-to

panganib

kwaii he

aya-oo-si

006 ts'hai

masarri

cariliman

he

ya-mi

myong myong

ana nga babai

anagna babai

nu'rh

moos'-rae

nya sik

arao

aggao

arao

yiji

fi

nar ir

arao

sangao

arao

yiji

ke foo

koom ir

nadimau

natai

patay

twan ki

si ni

tsook oor

bingi

lung

tsoon-bo-o

kooi mok oor

mafuina

mahal

kwei

ta-ka-ki-ne

kooi har

rp

daya

cha wei

mo-ro-i

so kir

malalim

shin

foo-ka si

kip hor

libay

lu

si-ka

sa s;i HI

macdas

otos

sin wan

oot-tor'

kar

queluyan

umibig ?

yuen

hos-soo

won bar

harang

liu

to-do-mar

mo mSor

kwei

o-ni

kooi sin

madiman

natay

matay

tsu mu

si-noor

tsook oor

matarec

yba

pu tung

ko-to-nar

tu roor

casadit

linag

nan

ka-ta-si

o ryo or

dolang

kiue

hor'

p'hiiir

marapin

marumi

wu wei

ke-ga-re

to ro oor

bambal

fausan

tsir', firro-moor

koot roor

mei shui

mids'ner'

moo tsu mi

pacanighen
mamarin

sambal
gaua

fan

tso

wa-kar'
has', sur'

podn kun
har

mangagamot

i sang

i si-ya

wi won

chito

quito

aso

kiucn

i-uoo, in'

kai

oancb

pinto

man

to, kado

moon

panaguinip

mung

yu-me-mir

skooin

•

noin

ma sir

mniiium

umimuin

ynum

bijrti

yin
ni 87.'

o-bor

spa tsir

tadibang
mabooc
rn;ib koh

inamnga

" O

calacalatongan
mahalangohin
tuyo

ku
yin tsui Him
kan

tsoo-tsoo-mi
yef c-i
ka-wu-ki

pook
ts'hyooi h»r
ma rf>r

VOL II.

546 VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Maldy.

Bisayan,

Sooloo.

Ihco.

Duck

pato

itjk

itik

Dumb

mudo

bisu

oomaoo

Dysentery

discnteria

chirit lindir

io oos it

EACH

cada uno

sa satu

ambook

Ear

oreja

telinga

taingah

Early

madrugada

piigi ari

mahinaat

Earth

tierra

buini, tanah

leopah

Earthquake

temblor de tierra

gumpah

gumpah

Easy

facil

mudah-mudah

batah

East

oriente

timor

timor

Eat

comer

makan

magcaon

ka-ma-oon

panuangen

Egg

huevo

telur

itlog

icloog

itlog

Embark

embarcar

naik prau

sumahat pa kapal

Enemy

enemigo

satru

Enough

bastante

sedang

igona

ganap

ison

Enter

entrar

misuk

simaud

Equal

igual

tara, sama

salidah

Evening

tarde

patang

ha poon

Every cada

segala

ka taan

Excellent excelente

elok

matahom caayo

majantih

nasayaat unay

Exchange (to) cambiar

tukar, ganti

ganti

Excuse (to) excusar

meng-ampiin

Explain

explanar

uiata-kan

matampalnah

Eye

ojo

mata

mata

FACE

cara

muka bayhoo

Fall (to)

caer

jatuh

mag hulog ma ho loog parmac uag

False

mentiro

bohoug

badak

ing iit ulbud

Far

lejos

jauh

halayo

mai oo adayo

Fast

veloz

lakas

ma cha pat

Fat

gordo

gumuk

matambuk

Father

padre

ba pa

amahan

ama ama

Fear

miedo

takut

asing

bugah i buteng

Fear (to)

temer

takut

magtahap

mabugah panagbuteng

Female

hoinbra

betina

babai

Fever

calentura

dummam paua.'

hiiig laou

Few

poco

sedlkit

tio tio

Fill

llenar

isi

hi poon

Finger

dedo

jari

goo la mai

Finished

concluyo

abis

natapus

depassnah

tepassec

Fire

fuego

api

kayu

Fire (to light)

encender

angus

lagar

OF LANGUAGES.

547

Cay ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

ytic

yah

a-fir'

ori

i

pipi

ya pa

o si

pong 6 ri

li ching

ha ra ga

syor sya

kak

o-no

kak

tayinga

'rh

mi-mi

kooi

paaga

tsau

ha-ya-si

ir oor

lupa

ti

tsoo-tsi, tsi

tta-ti

lindol

ti chin

dsi sin, nai

ti tsiii

ualan linag

i, punan

ta-ya-soo-ki

sooi or

silangan

tung

fi-ga-si

tong nyok

cuman

cumain

shi

s'yokf

mok oor

iluk

itlog

tan

ta-ma-go

ax

sacay

hi chuen

caauay

chan ti

ka-ta-ki

tai tyok

mapia ngana

siya

tsu

tar', mit tar'

tsyok bar

pasoc

tsin

ir', ma-ir'

toor

para

siang tang

ta-i-ra-ka

p'hyong har

hapon

wan shang

yo-i

na tso

toui

koh

fito ko-to

mai yang

curuga macasta

mainam

kia niiaii

ka-na-si, yo-si

a lam ta or

palit

kiau hwan

ka-yur'

sa p'hir

angao

shu

na-dam'

tsyop oor

say say

kiai

tokf'

tsoo nair

mata

yen

mey

noon

raucha

mien

o mo te n&t

manafu

mahulug

hia

o-tsoor'

tsir

siri

cabal aauang

kia

its-wa ri

ko tsoot

arayu

malayo

yuen

to-ho-si

mdr

talar

kwai

ha-ya-si

kwai kwai

mataba

fi

ko-her

sar tsir

yama

ama

ft

tsi -tsi

a pi

takot

kii

o-so-roo

nor nar

paganasin

matakut

pa

o-so-roor'

babayi

nii

o-na-go

key tsip

lagnai

iVi h sb.au

nets' be-oo

kuk tsir

y ilan

»hiiu

soo-ko-si

tsyo koor

pono

mwan

mi-t»oor'

ts'har

shau chi

yu-bi

son kii rak

balinaun

tapus liau shaii

mat-ta-si

niii ts'liiiiu

apuy ho

fi, hi

poor

ningas ho hi-tak j p<«>r (M timr

2 0 2

548

VOCABULARY

En ff lit A.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

First

primero

pertama

kaisab

Fish

pcscado

Ikan

isda

istah

ikan

Hag

bandera

tunggal

Flame

lltuna

niilla

ki mi glap

Flesh

carne

daging

oo-nood

Flour

harina

tepong

tapong

Fog

niebla

kabut

gaboou

Foolish

tonto

bodoh, gfla

gila

oo-maon

nanengneng

Foot

pie

si ki

Fowl

gallina

ayam

monga

manook

pamusian

Friend

amigo

sohbat

abian

bagai bagai

gaigem

Fruit

fruta

bftah

bongah

Fuel (wood)

madera

kayu api

dungool kayu

Full

lleno

punnuh

hi poh

GALE

tempestad

ribut, tufan

hoo noos, bajoo

Garden

jardin

taman

tanaman

kabun

camnyungan

Gay

alegre

suka-chita

hillaco

nacuticuti

Gently

mansamente

perlahan

Girl

mucbacha

anak perampuan

anak babai

Give

dar

kasih, bri

mag hatag

du mihil, kasik

pannaugted

Glass

vidrio

kacha

kachah

Go

andar

pergi

iig kau, ranow

Goat

cabra

kambing

kambing

God

Dios

Allah

Dios

Allah

Dios

Gold

oro

mas, amas

bnlauan

amas

balitoc

Good

bueno

baik

masayo

mariaou

nalaing

day

buenos dias

salamat pagi

ma ayon adlau

naimbag a adlai

• 1 1

i

tabe

Arabic

„ w«lin»

nociica
tardes

evening
Goose

ganso

gangsa

angsa

Governor

gobernador

pemarentah

Grave

sepultura

knbbur

Great

grande

besar

daco

dacola

dacquel

Green

verde

ijan

malimbau

verde

Grief

lastima

duka

kasusahan hati

Groin

ingle

konchi pauh

Guilty

culpado

salah

sa ah

Gun

escopeta

snapang

sinapaug

Gun (large)

pieza de artilleria

mariam

'

HAIK
Half

pelo
mitad

rambut
tangah

hilabipan

bo book

napalalo

OF LANGUAGES.

549

Batan.

Cog ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

asa

mang

sa-i-si-yo

tsyong

union

sira

isda

yii

oo-wo

k5ki

ki

ka-ta

kwi

caninas

ho yen

ho-no-woo

kokor

paa

jau

nikf'

kSM

fan

ko-moo-gi no ko

kook syoo

casa rian

yen wu

ka-zoo-mi

an kai

di asulib

ulapa

manmang

tai chi

o-ra-ka

o rir

cocor

kioh

a si

par

upa

flupa

manuc

ki lui

ni-wa-to-ri

tark

cqjun

caibigan

pang yii

to-mo da-tsi

poong oo

asi na cayu

bunga

kwu tsz'

kfoo-da-mo-no

kwa sir

oo rin

chai

ta-ki-gi

sum

mapno

mwan

mita' a-ki

ts'har

anjin

bagyo

kwang fung

ha-ya-te

p'ho phoong

camuhamuhaan

camulan

halamaiian

yuen pu

ha-ta-ke

tong s:\ii

racug

maratan

daquila

ta

ta-no-si-moo

yuu pok

louay

man man ti

ya-wa-ra-ka

yong

mudeg mabaques

batang lalaqui

yu nil

o-na-go

key tsip

languiana

biguian

ki

a-taf

ta m8r

paganinum

bobog

po li

ha-ri

tyoo li

Makalu, angayau

lacar

hing

yukf '

kar

caddin

cambing

shan yang

ya-gi

yang

Dios

Dios

Shang ti

Ka-mi

bajasan

bulanan

guinto

kin

kd-gii-ne, kiu

sol

mapia

mapia

mabuti, y gui

hlu

yo-ki, yo-si

tsyS ho6r

mapia nga unma

inagaudang arao

magandang gabi

apon
ytic

'ngo

ga

ke yoo

manjoh ko yokol

tsung tu

boogi-ya-oo

libing, baon

twan yen

tsoo ka

mou torn

racug

dacab

malaque

ta

o-bo-i

k'houn

maghah buluin

fuccao

hilao

lu

ini-do-ri

p'ha roor

bambayu

sayang

yii mun

outs'- ki

koon sim ou

pani

singit

tui chc fung

sala

yii tsui

tsoo-to-me

ho moor

nii'iu tsiang

tct-po oo

tyo U'liyung

chung pan

tc:p-po-oo

buoc

ka, oualla

nctalugarin

bohor
calahnti

fah
pivhn

ka-ini, jr
na ka rn

t'ho n>k
piin

550 VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloro.

Hand

mano

tangan

limah

Handkerchief

pauuello

sapu tangan

sapu limah

Hard

duro

kras

matugas

Hat

somhrero

chipiau

topi

Hatchet

destral

kapak

kapak

Have

liaber

ada

a-oon

He, she, it

el, ella, ello

diya

siya, kania

Head

cabeza

kapala

60

Hear

oir

dangar

mag doongug

doong oog

pauangdengugeg

Heart

corazon

jantong

ha tai

Heat

calor

ka-pauas-an

ma pas sdoh

Heaven

cielo

surga, langit

langit

shurga

languit

Heavy

pesado

brat

mabugat

mabugat

nadagsen

Hell

infierno

marka

naraka

Help (to)

ayutar

tolong

tolong

Here

aqui

de sini

dinhi

dii

ditoy

High

alto

tinggi

mataas

Hog

puerco

babi

babui

Hold

tener

pegang

doua

caadda

Hope (to)

esperar

meugharap

mag-hnlat

tagad

panagnray

Horse

caballo

kuda

cabayu

kudah

cabayo

Hot

caliente

panas

mapassooh

Hour

hora

satn diam

usaca horas

maisa nga horas

House

casa

rumah

balay

bah i

balay

How much

quanto

brapa

pila

Hunger

hambre

lapar

liap

Hungry

tengo gana

saya lapar

na ibigan co

hiapdi

ada ganasoo

Hurt

danado

rugi

Husband

marido

laki

banah

I

yo

aku

aku, ipoon

If

si

kalau

bang

Ignorant

ignorante

babal

dupang

Impudent

atrevido

korang bijak

J bukundah

Inferior

inferior

korang

\ mariaou

Infirm, ill

enfermo

lemah

masakit

sakit

masakit

Inform

avisar

bri tan

naponongan

Inherit

heredar

ber pusaka

nabakuk pusaka

Ink

tinta

dawat

da wat

Innocent

inocente

suchi

,

asoh masar

Inquire

inquirir

preksa

a soo boo

Instruct, show

euscnar

ineng ajar

mangh haudu

Internal

interno

iaug de dalam

ing malaoom

OF LANGUAGES.

551

Caff ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

camay

shau

te

son

pamabir

shau kin

te ki-noo

tigas

kien

ka-ta-si

koot ser

sailing

kwan

kaf -ri

kwan

palakol

fu

yo-ki

to ts'hai

may, mey

yu

ar' roo

isir

yea

ta

kare

tsyo

olo

tau

a-ta-ma

ma ri

pagguina

maquinig

ting

kikf

toor nir

pozo

sin

sin no za-oo

nyom t'hong

ban as

hiuen

as-si

to oor

langui

langit

tien

ten

ha nar'

maramo

mabigat

chung

o-mo-si

moo ko or

ti yob

tsi kokf '

tolong

pang

ta-sookf '

to or

toye

dito, dini

che li

ko-ko-ni

tiias

kau

ta-ka-si

no p'hoSr

babuy

chu

ir no ko

tots tsey

quegga

magcaroon

na ting

ni-gir' ka tsir

maguiddac

maguintay

wang

no-zom

pa riir

caballo

yi pi ma

'ma, moo-ma

mar

je

as-si, nets'

to oor

tadday nga bora

sbi shin

to-ki, si

stiii si

balay

balay

yi kien yu

i-e, i-he

tsip ka

magcauo

job kan

so-ko-ba kwi ha

gotom

tu ngo

fi-da-roo-si

tsod rir

egga y ayacu

aku mai gotom

tu mui

oo-ye

tsoo rir

panganganyaya

shang

a-ta-ni

hai bar

asauab

fft

ot-to

tsi a pi

aco

wo, yu

wa-rc, wa-ga

na

cun

job

mo-si

man ir

cadi carununpan

pu chi

foo-zits'

mapangahas

wu ki tun

hia tang

mataki

saquit

ngan

yo-wa-si

yak liar

gdar

tung chi

tsoo-gfoor'

ho liar

mana

wci nie

tsoogf '

ni oor

tinta

me

sooin'

syoo inoi<k

ualan sal a

nui

tsoo-mi

siyasip

aha wan

', to-oo

m(V) roor

aral

kiau

o-si-gur

l»> ir

loob

nu'i

oo-tsi-taoo-ra

552 VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Interpreter

iuterprete

jiiro bhasa

gool bhasilh

Iron

fierro

besi

basi

Island

isla

pulo

joo

Itch

sarna

kudis

ka kaas koo rit

JAPAN

Japon

Japun

Jealous

zeloso

chumburu an

chumbuhan

Joy

gozo

ka suka an

ka suka an

Judge

juez

hakim

Judgment

juicio

hukum

Just

justo

betul

adU

KEEP (see Hold)

tener

Kettle (copper)

caldera

kwali

kawali

Key

llave

anak konchi

koot chuk

Kidney

rinon

buah piuggang

pamas tioon

Kill

matar

bunoh

pation

bunoh

Kind

benigno

kasihan ati

kai laou

King

Key

baginda, raja

Knee

podilla

lutut

too hood

Knife

cuchillo

pisan

la riug

Know

saber

tahu, tau

mag hibalo

maing gnot

LAKE

laguna

danau

lanaou

Land

tierra

tanah

lupah

Large

grande

besar

daco

dacola

Last

ultimo

iang akhir

ka hapoan

Laugh (to)

reir

tertawa

mag catava

nagka tawah

Lazy

tardo

segan, malas

oo ska wan

Lead

plomo

timah etam

tingah itooni

Leak (to)

hacer agua

bochor

boosloot

Learn

aprender

ajar

magtoon

hin-du

Leave

dexar

tinggal

tinggal

Left

izquierdo

Hri

ooah

Leg

pierna

betis, kaki

bilis

(malang ba

Leprosy

lepra

kudal

loompat,

bulit manook

Less

menos

korang deri-pada

korang

Letter

carta

siirat kiriman-an

sulat

Lie

mentira

bohong

bakak

pooting

Lie (down)

descansar

baring

kolungan

I loco.

panima patay
panangamano

naouticuti
panag catas

panagsnrsuro

ulbud

OP LANGUAGES.

553

Satan.

mamapatay
pasan nama

maratan
jumalo

maguiguiamn

VOL II.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

! Korean.

dolo basa

fan yi wan

tsoo oo zi

t'hong sa

bacal

tie

tets'

801

polo

chau

si-ma

syom to

galis

kan lai

ka-yu-si

ka vyo 8r

Jipan kwoh

Nip-pon

or pon

mapangiboghoin

tsi tu

ne-ta-mi

roo kwi

logor, toua

hi kwan

yo-ro-ko-bi

kitkoor

hocom

hing ming

a-ze-si

hocom

ko-to-ha-ri

sar p'hir

banal

kung Ian

i-sa-gi-yokf*

kong tsyong

sliui hu

ya-kf'wan

tan tsa

solot

so shi

zi-yo-o

swai tsa

bato

mil shin

moo-ra-to

k'houg p'hns

patay

shah

oots', ko-ros'

tsok ir

maalam

wan ho ti

na-sa-ke

hari

wang

o ho ki-mi

nlm koom

tohor

si

fi-za

moo roop

sundang

yi pa tan

ka-ta-na

k'har

alam

chi

sir', mo-no, sir*

ar

dagat

liu

raids' -oo-mi

k,:i ram

lupa

li, tien

rikf ' tsi

t.ta

picaro soail

ta

pi-ro-i

t'hoop

huli

mob.

sa-i go

k5

termaua

siau

foo-ra-oo

oo oom

hull

Ian to

o-ka-ta-ri

ki 5 roSr

tinga

yuen

na-ma-ri

rayon

lau

sair

aral

hioh

ma-na-b'

pai hor

talauas

li

ha-nar'

li pyor

calina

tso

fi-da-ri

oir

paa

kioh

ma ta

ta ri

hila

ma fung

kat-ta-i ya-mai

lyong pyong

colang

kang siau

yo-ri soo-ko-si

tor

sulat

shu sin

tc-ga'ini

8yo kfm

cahulaanan

shwoh hwang

its' -war', oo-po

ko t*"M>t

hinga

ngo tau

nc-moor'

noo oor

2 p

{)54 VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

Life

vida

niiiwa

Light

luz

trang

sagaa

masawah

silao

Light (to)

ligero

ringan

magaan

maguan

nadaras

Like

semejante

sama

sali

Lime

cal

kapur

bang kit

Lip

labio

bibir

igad, simood

Listen

escuchar

intei

mag silip

panang sirip

Little

pequeno

kechil

kichi, tiu tin

Little (quantity)

poco

sedikit

dictai

tiu tiu

bassit

Live

vivo

ber-idup

boohi

Liver

higado

limpa

bagu

Lock

cerraja

kunchi

kan-ching

Long

largo

panjang

matahas

Look (to)

mirar

Hat

mirar

kitah

mirar

Lose

perder

Hang

maguala

na poo as

panna ca oan

Lost

perdida

luchut

nawah

Love (to)

amar

kasih

ka loong an

Low

baxo

rendah

a bah bah

Lungs

pulmones

pa-parau

paru paru

Mad

loco

gila

buang

mag kang oog

mauyong

Make

hacer

biiat

hi nang

Male

macho

jantan, laki laki

oo-soog

Man

hombre

orang

lalaqui

00 SOOg

lalaqui

Many (much)

mucho

baniak

paghan

matahood

adu

times

muchas veces

baniak kali

maka daghan

nanim adu

Mast

arbol

tiang

Meat

carne

daging

unut dabas

daging sapi

lasag

Medicine

medecina

ubat

ubat, tuba

Meet

encontrar

ber temu

magquita

mak baak

panagsarac

Mend

componer

balk i

maglutos

tai a wah

panangabil

Mercury

azoque

ayer perak

tubig pirak

Merry

alegre

suka

kioogan

Middle

medio

tangah

tengah

Midnight

media noche

tangah malam

tengah duum

Milk

leche

susu

gatas

gatas

tubig tisoso

Mine (my)

mio

aku-punia

kaku

Money

dinero

wang

pilak

Monkey

mono

karra

a mo

Month

mes

bulan

bulan

Moon

luna

bulan

bulan

bulan

bulan

More

mas

lagi

lagi, dugang

Morrow

manana

Isuk, pagi

ugma

kin soom

bigat

Mother

madre

:i m :i . i I)N

iuahan

inah

ina

OF LANGUAGES.

Cagayan. Tagala.

Chinese

Japanese.

Korean.

buhay

ming

i-no-tsi, me-i

mok soom

tulu

ylao

kwang

fi-ka-ri

pyot

malapao

malicsi

king

ka-roo-si

ka pai ya or

camucha

chung i

si-kau

ka t'har

apog

pe kwui

its ba-i

labi

shin

kfoo-tsi bir

ip si oor

nagguiguina

sumilip

ta ting

kikf'

too roor

munti

soo-ko-si

tsyo koor

bassi

caunti

si au

tsit-to

tsa mot

buhay

ku

i-ki-te-or

nar

atay

kan

kan-no za-oo

kan

solotau

yi pa so

ka-gi

pai mok

mahaba

chang

na-ga-ki

kin

paca singau tingin

kan

mir'

por

nararal mauala

shi

oo-si-naf

tsir

pagcaiiala

shi lian

ya poor

son har

palasinta

ngai

ai-soor

sa rang

mababa

hiii

so-ko

nil tsar

baga

fi

ha-i no za-oo

poo hwii

ulapa

olol

tieu

kfoo-roo-i

mi ts' hir

gaiia

tzo tso

tsoo'-kfeor'

ha yo kum

balaqui

nan

o-to-ko

lalaqui

tauo

Jin

fi-to

sa ram

aru

maraini

to

o-si o-ho-si

iniiu hoor

naiiii yam

to tsz'

tot tot

poliagan

tsiihig

ho-ba-si-ra

lot tfu

dumaga

lanian

jau

nikf

kn kl

gamot

i hioh

kfoos'-ri

yak

netafuraii

maquita

yii

af ', a i-af '»

inn tsoor

payan

paluin

pii

foo-sc-soor

syoo li

shui sing fc

tuids' ka nc

syoi) oon

malobogdin

hin jcn

ta-no-si-mi

k'hwfii har

calabatian

chung

ka on kili

pwaii ye

yo-na-ka

gatto

galas

j''

ni-yu

t'ha lak

ko

wo ti kwi\ug to

wa-ta

nii

pilac

tsien

ka nc

ton

amo

ma Ian

tna-si-ra

t.-ain nap I

bouun

yi yuo

ts'ki

(Jir wor

fulan

buan

yue

ts'ki

tfir wor

lalo

to sii:

sa ra ni

la M

rionuina

bucas

ining tiuu

a-kf(x>r-fi

myoug ir

ycna

ynn

IIIU

fa-iu

(1 Illl

•1 P '>

555

556

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

Mountain

montana

gunong, bukit

buguid

bood bood

bantai

Mouth

boca

mulat

si mood

„* / - ,

boca del no

kwala

Move

mover

garak

mag ka hi bal

Much

mncho

(vide many)

Mud

lodo

lumpur

156 moot, pi saak

Murder (to)

asesinar

bunoh

Music

musica

bunyi

t

NAKED

desnudo

talanjang

hooboh

Name

nombre

nfima

nama

Navel

ombligo

pusat

pusood

Near

cerca

dekat

hadool

masu oog

asideg

Neat

lindo

brisih

ma jan tae

Necessary

es preciso

hams

gina hanglan

harus

pannacay payn

Neck

cuello

leher

li oog

Never

nnnca

tidak sekali

dile na ngamas

f oolan ma sam-
\ purna

saanpay

New

nuevo

bharu

bagai

Next

proximo

iang dekat

dugain

Night

noche

malam

gabe

du oom

rabiy

No

no

tidak, tidah

dfli

hubolo, oalah

saan

Noble

noble

ber bangsa

berbangsa

Noise

ruido

bunyi

None

ningun

tiada

ooalah

Noon

medio dia

tangah ari

oogtoo sugu

North

norte

utara

utara

Nose

nariz

Idong

hiloong

Not

no

tidak

ooalah

Now

ahora

sekarang

biya ha ya oon

OAB

remo

dayong

Obey

obedecer

turut

maagaad

Of

de

puuia

deripada

Offended

ofendido

sakit ati

Officer

oficial

pangulu

Often

muchas veces

ter-kadang

Oil

azeite

miniak

la-nah

Old

viego

tuah

tigulang

mahaas

lakai

Only

solamente

saja

usra

mey meysa

Open (to)

abrir

mem buka

umukab

abierto

buka

na ookab

Opium

opio

afyum, madat

matad, afyun

557

Satan.

Cog ay an.

Tagala.

Chine

ujar a makarran

amague

bondok

shan

ngoso

bibig

kau

vaua

golapay

tsien

racug

marimi

hota

losac

ni

patay

yoh

binitaghut

hobo

chi shin

ngaran

ngalan

ming

posed

posor

tsi

arani

malapit

kin

mapagoi

tsi ching

meyanung

saukap

shi kang

lagao

liig

king

araba pandaan

aripaga nesima

cailauman

tsung wu

bujo

bago

sin

caponatauo

toz'

ghaghet

sabi

gaby

ye

uugah

an

yndi, dili

pu shi

payna guen

mahal

tsun

ingay

shing

araba

ysaman

mu yii

nakatayatoh

tanghali

chau

ydaur

hilaga

re

mamundan

ylong

Pi

ungah

dili

pu

ngayon

mu hia

gayong

tsiang

sonor

tsun i

ni

chi

sala

kwai

mangagana

kwan

ma pirua

maralas

to tsz'

ha nein

langis

yii

malqucn

lakalaki

matanda

kiu

laman

maquisa

chc

tuangan

icang

kai

icang

ya pica

Japanese.

Korean.

da-ke

mois moo G

kfoo-tsi

ip koo

oo-gokf '
o-okf-ni

66m tsook

do-ro

tsoon hark

oots' ko-ros

tsook ir

p'hong byoo

ha-da-ka

mer

na

ir horn

he-so
tsi-ka-si-ni

pal sk^p
kat ka

a-ta-ka-mo
ka-na-me

pin pin

mo ni mi

kfoo-bi

niuk

tsoo-ini

op sar

a-ta-ra-si

sai

to.na-ri

po koom

yor'
i-ya
ki

pam ya
mot bar
kooi kar

soot too 6 rir

na-i

op sar

map-pir
ki-ta
ha-na

pook pyok
k'ho

na-i
ima

op sor
tsook koom

ka-i

no

o-sa-moor
no

syoon har
kar

tsoo-ka-sa

pom hur
kwuu won

ma-i-da

tot tot

ab'-ra

ki room

o-i-tar'

t<~:

ba-ka-ri

.. t-'ik

fi-rakf

yor

akcr'

558

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay,

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

Or

0

atau

a tau ah

Orange

naranja

iiiiKiu manis

suoh i iiiiin ili

Order (to)

niainlar

suruh

inagsugo

da ak

panagbaou

Other

otro

lain

ang usa

dugain

sabali

Our

nuestro

k it a pun ia

ka too

Outside

afuera

de luar

ha goah

Over

sobre

atas

t a as

Owe

deber

her utang

mang hootang

PADDY

arroz

Midi

ail as maputi

palay

Pain

dolor

pedih

sakit

nasaquit

Paper

papel

kartas

papel

curias

papel

Past

pasado

:clah laid

:abai

Passionate

apasionado

angat

boong iss

Pay (to)

pagar

timbang

baag bayad

Pearl

perla

mutiara

moot chah

People

gente

orang

oosoog

Pepper

pimienta

lada

pamienta

lada

pimienta

Perhaps

quizas

barangkali

mao caha

kalu kalu

ngata

Physic

medecina

ubat

tuba tuba

tuba tuba

Physician

medico

dukum

Kg

puerco

babi kechil

babui

babui

babui

Pirate

pirata

orang pumpak

rompak

Place

sitio

tampat

samay

lugar

Plantain

platano

pisang

sagiii, saing

Plenty

copia

haniak

mataoud

Pox, chicken

viruelas locas

small

viruela

pali pankoot

Poison

venemo

rachun

choonah

Poisonous

venenoso

berbesa

berbisa

Pole

palo

satang

Polite

cortes

supan

maingat adat

Poor

pobre

meskin

macalaloog

miskin

napauglao

Poultry

gallineria

ayam ilik

manook

manook

manuc

Pregnant

prenado

bunting

boo roos

Present (a)

regalo

bing Ms

hatag

regalo

Pretty

hermoso

bagus

matahom

bagus

nasayaat

Prevent

prevenir

menagah

lo angah

Price

precio

arga

bili

Promise (to)

prometer

janji

janjii

Proper

proprio

patut

patut

Pulse

pulso

nadi

gakk

Punish

castigar

menyiksa

hoo koo mah

Purple

purpnreo

ungu

ungu

Put

poner

baboh, taroh

magbutan

( hood hoodah,

panangicabil

\tawan

OF LANGUAGES. 0

Satan.

Caff ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

munuh

cun

kwoh

ka

hok

ay

lucban

tien tsang

kfoo-nen-bo

kyoor kyoor

padoc

magutus

ming

se-sim

poon poo

ek

tadday

y ba

pie

ho-ka-no

ta roor

amen

ta

wo mun ti

wa-ta-kfs-to-mo-

loual

wai tau

ho-ka-ni Cno

pat

y babao

kwo

oo-ye-ni

66s

otang

Men

s'yakf ' gin

pit

ay

palay

ho

a-wa

tso

en

taki

saquit

tang

i ta-moo

ax hoor

calatas

chi

ka-mi

tsyo hwl

lingpas

kwo li&u

soo-ki-sar

or tsook

icuyat

masucaling loob

sing ki ti

ha-na-da-da

stoot

ipagsa

bayar

kiau

mookf '-yu

kii p'hoor

ran

chin chu

sin s'yn

koo sar

a

tauo

min

paik syong

sili

paminto

chuen tsiiin

ko see-oo

ho ts'hyo

numasimu

tila

hwoh che

hok

ia tuba

gamot

yoh

kfoos' ri

yak

manga gamot

i sang

kfoos' si

wT won

ghu cnis

babuy

si&u chii

i-no-ko

tot

mamamangga

bli tse

ka-i-sokf

aguinan

bayan

chu

kot

uibueg

saguing

hislng ya tsiau

o-ba-ko

p'ha ts'hyo

cug

hilab

fung shing

na oor

shiii pan

mo-ga-sa ?

tol

tau

tSOO'SO-OO

ts5 tsiii

panulib

lason

tu, chin

dokf nil

lason

tu ti, chin tu

dokf ni

ichor, cayu

cahny

kan toz'

tsa-o

sa hwat tiii

maanianihiu

yu R ti

ley igi

15yt«

macallalo

mahirap

pin

maz-zi

ka-niin hiir

anuc

maiiuc

ki lui

ni-wa.to-ri

tark

buntis

yu shin

ha-ran-de-or

pair

alaou

iniana amasingan

palay ao

li wu

okf 'ri mo-iio

tsyon song

macasta

mariquit

hilu kftn

ook-kfoo-si-i

kd or

daucn

handa

Ian tsi

foo-segf

Ian ts'hyoor

bill

ki,\

kup

' pangaco

ying ching

mats'-bar

ho hiir

,

bocor

i

mat tang

sanhi

me

tsi Mm dai

ma ik

dusa

kia hing

kc-i-bats

tsoi t«")6r

pu tsing

moo-rn-sa-gi

tsa tsi

panguipay ilagny

filng

okf

toor

559

500

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

QUARREL (to)

contender

ber bantah

nag ka loh

Quarrelsome

pendencioso

lang churi chakit

magbantah

Queen

reyna

raja perampuan

raja babai

Quick

presto

chapat

madali

machapat

uadaras

Quit

dexar

tinggal

mein

RAIN

lluvia

ujan

oo Ian

Bain (to)

llover

ber ujam

mag oo Ian

Raise

levantar

ang kat

Rank

condicion

panghat

Rat

pata

tikus

ambow lupa

Raw

crudo

mautah

mung ai oh

Ray

rayo de luz

sinar

sinag mata sooga

(lightning)

rayo

kilat

linti

kilat

sa lit

Read

leer

bacha

mag basa

bachaha

panagbasa

Ready

pronto

sedia

sedia

Red

Colorado

merah

mapula

poo lah

nalabaga

Reject

pehusar

anggan

tolakkan

Remain

restar

tinggal

Restore

restituir

perbalas

Retire

retirarse

undur

Return (to)

revenir

kambali

oo-i

Rice

arroz

bras

bugas

bugas

bu gas

Rich

rico

kaya

sapisan

kawasah

masanicua

Right

justo

betul

henal

Right

derecho

kanan

Rise (to)

levantarse

baugkil

bang oon

River

rio

sungei

soobah

Road

camino

jala ri

dalan

panow

dalan

Rob

pobar

rampas

mag canat

lang pas

panagtacao

Rock (see Stone)

roca

Root

paiz

akar

gamut

Rope

cuerda

tali

Rotten

podrido

basuk

loo niott

Round

redondo

bulat

tibook

Run (to)

correr

lari

mag dalagan

nah gooi

paiiagtaray

SATE

seguro

salamat

Sail

vela

layer

layag

laiar

layag asin

Salt

sal

garam

asin

asm

asin

Same

mismo

sama

salih

Sand

arena

pasir

kalang, pasir

Save

salvar

paliara

OP LANGUAGES.

501

Bat an.

I

lapacaru

mtiinuy
mtimuy
f angay

irran, rakou

i puen nu adcy

lavayat

ipay bidi

i mona
lay bangun
maghen

, mot
adeder

dar

VOL. II.

mabi

talli
mabibic

maoaauaya

dalan
ratacao

inapalagnn

layak
asin

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese

Korean.

talo

tsang

a-ra-sof

ta t'hor

pagaanay

bin tsang tan ti

foo-zi tsi ga i

ts'hyo kir

baring babayi

kwang hau

ki sa ki

hwang hod

dali

kwai

ha ya si

spa rar

habilin

tui tsz' liau

hanar

li pyor

olan

yii

a-mc

pi 65

olan

toh yii

a-me-foor

taas

ki

ta-kakf '-soor

toor

caalaman

pin ki

kakf ' si-ki

ts'ha rey

daga

shu

nez'-mi

tsooi

bilao

sang

na ma

nar kop

linanag

king shie

fi-na-ta

pijot

lintic

tien

i-na tsoo-ma

p5n kai

basa

tu

yom

nir koor

sarya

tsi pi

so na ye

in p'hyon

pula

hung

a ka-si

poor koor

bocor

ki kii

si ri sokf

pa rir

lira

chii tsai

to-do-mar, or'

mo moor

saoli

fu hing

ka-yes'

am koor

toloy

tui

uo-kfoor'

moo ro8r

coyompis

kwui, hwui lai

ka-her

to ro hydr

palay

mi

yo-me

psar

mayaman

fii

to-moo

ka Sm yor

banal

shi

i sa gi yokf

or hoor

talandac

yu shau

mi gi

or hoor

tindig

ki shin

o-kor

nir

ylog

kiang

ka-wa, ga-wa

ha syoo

daan

tau lii

o-ho-tsi

kir

lupig

takie

noo-soom

to tsdk tsir h»r

i-si

ogat

kan

ne

poor hooi

pisi, lubir

Ian

tsoo-na

no

dorog

fii

ta-da-re

sok koor

mabilog

yuen

msr' ki

toong koor

tacbo

pau

ha- sir

tiir oor

tinaday

wan tang

ya-soo-si

p'hdn bar

layag

shi

ho

Uit

asin

yen

si-wo

so kom

caniucha

tung

o-na-zi

kan ka t -i

bohangin

shu

soo-na

mfi «"•

tubes

kiii

Boo-kfoo-oo

kw won

2 Q

562

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Sea

mar

laut

bagat

laou ood

See

ver

Hat

mag tanao

pangatood

Seek

buscar

chari

mangita

Sell

vender

jual

mag baliguia

mugbi

Send

despacher

panggil

parah

Serpent

serpiente

ular

haas

Sew

coser

jahit

mag tahi

nanu hi

Shallow (a)

baxio

tohor

bab o bo

Shape

hechura

rupa

daagboos

Ship

buque

kapal

sacayan

kapal

Short

corto

pendek

pan daak

Show

mostrar

mengajar

tonjok

Shut

cerrar

tutup

Sick

enfermo

sakit

sakit

Silent

cidlar

bcrdiam

mag hilum

du hoom

Silver (to be)

plata

perak

pilak

pirak

Sister

hermana

fsudara peram-
\ puan

igsuou nga bay

ftai maughood
\ babai

Sit

sentarse

duduk

mag lincud

ning cood

Slave

esclavo

buaak

Sleep

dormir

tidor

mag tulog

ma toog

Slow

lento

lalei

ma la lai

Small

pequeno

kechil

dictai

asibi

Softly

blandamente

perlahan

mahinay

Some

algo

barang

tiu tiu

Son

hijo

anak laki laki

anac nga lalaqui

anak oosoog

South

snr

salatan

sa atan

Speak

hablar

kata

mag pulong

bailah sui sui

Stand

pararse

tegga

too min dig

Star

estrella

bintang

bi too oon

Stay

esperar

nanti

Steady

firme

tagoh, tatap

tatap

Stomach

estomago

ampadal

lungan lungan

Stone

piedra

batu

bato

batu

Stop

detener

nanti

doo hoom

Straight

derecho

betul

matulid

tulid, boon tool

Strong

fuerte

kunsit

basoag

Sugar

azucar

gnla

sucar

Sun

sol

mata ari

ad lao

mata sugah

Sweet

dulce

manis

mai mooh

Sword

espada

pedang

pudang

TAKE

tomar

ambel

kawahoon

Tall

alto

tinggi

malaas.mangkau

Tame

manso

jinak

iiad-lah

OF LANGUAGES

563

Caff ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

bebay

dagat

hai

oo-mi

patS

ng singan

quita

kien

mir

por

pagalec

hanap

tsin choh

tats'-noor'

no

malacu

bili

mai

oor'

p'har

lapas

ki

yar'

po uair

ahas

yi tiau shie

hey ni

pai yam

malutu

tahi

fung

noof

h.5r

mababao

tsien

a-sa-si

yot t'hoor

pagca

hing siang

ka-ta-tsi

or koor

barangai

balangay

yi chi chuen

foo-ne

pai

maicli

twan

mi-zi-ka-si

tsyo roor

toro

pi kaii

a-ra-was"

ka ra ts'hir boom

pinir

yen muu

to-dsoor'

tii toor

masaquit

yii ping

ya-ma-i

py-ong

ari mapua

tahimic

me

mokf '

tsam tsam

pira

pilac

pe kin

gin, si-ro-ga-ne

oon

vagui a babai

capatir na babayi

toz'

imo-oo-to

mat noo ooi

magui tubang

locloc

tso'

soo war, za

an tsoor

bulisic

mi

to ra ha-re tsyong no

maca turuc

tolog

shui

ner', nc-moor noo oor

marahan

man

noor'-si to tooir

badi

munti

siau

ko-ma-ka-ni tsyo koor

matanay

marahan

tsiiiu (siau

ta-ya soo-ki '. yong yong

balang

yii sie

hok

ana

anac nalalaqni

tsz' si

moos'-ko

a toor

tanghali

nan

mi-na-mi

nam myok

pagubobuc

pangusap

kiang

i-oo, mo-no-i-oo

mar

tab an

cheu

tats'

syor

bitoin

yi li sing

ho-si

pyor

hiutay

chi si kieu

to-mcr'

poo t'hor

matibay

to tang

tsoo-yo-si

sicmora

pi wei

i-nof '

yang

battu

bato

yi kwai shi

i-si

tor syok

harang

chi, chii chi

to-do-moor

koi) ts'hir

matunun

matouir

chi

na wo si'

ko toor

malacas

yvl li

tsoo-yo-si

sooik sooik bar

issi

bulas

tang

sa-to-oo

syor tang

bilac

arao

j'

ti

nar

matamys

kati

a ma ki

tar

calis

tan tsoor'-gi, ken

hwau to

coha

tsii tor' tn'hyooi hiir

laas

kim sail ta-ka-i no p'hoor

innamo vang shcn liau na rour'

2 a 2

564

VOCABULARY

Enylish.

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloeo.

Taste

gustar

me rasa

kiua man

Tea

te, cha

teh

soog-ti toobig ti

Teeth

dientes

gigj

ipoon

TeU

decir

britau

na pamongan

Tempest

tempestad

ribut

onos

ribut

baquio

Thaiik

agradecir

taiima kasih

dios mag bayad

dhili

dios ti humalis

That

aquel

itu

ia in in

The

el

itu

Theft

hurto

pen-churian

There

alii

di situ

didto

didtoo

dita

Thick

grueso

tabal

madak mool

Thief

hnln.ni

pen-churi

cauatan

main dukao

mannanacao

Thirsty

sediento

aus

uhao

oo haod

maoaoac

This (these)

estc

ini

ini

Throat

garganta

kungan

lioog

Tide flood

plena mar

pasang naik

ta oot

ebb

marea mengua

.

laang hunas

aguas vivas
baxa mar

esar

tubig dacola
hunas

knng

Tie (to)

atai1, ligar

kabat

mag gacut

boo koo hae

panangreppet

Tin

estauo

tiinah

tangah putih

Tired

cansado

payah'

mabutlay

nabannugac

To (unto)

a

akan

ha

Together

juntos

sama sama

uban

agcuyug

Tongue

lengua

ledah

lilah

Torment (to)

molestar

gaduh

mag sakit

panagunget

Travel

caminar

ber-jalan

panac

pano-oot

pannangna

Tree

arbol

puhun

pono sa cahuy

pohun bataiig

kago

True

verdadero

benar

benal

UNABLE

inhabil

tiada bulih

Under

debaxo

de bawa

Understand

entender

meng arti

Unfair

doble

korang betul

Unfit

inepto

tiada patut

Untie

desatar

buka

Urine ' orina

ayer kinching

kabawah
man oi man

tatou an, ihi

VALOUR

valor

ka-barani-an

Vein

vena

urat darah

Victuals

viveres

makanan

Village ; pueblo
Vomit vomitar

dusun, nepri
rauntah

isug

tured

ugat mana hoot
ka oo noon
pariau
muntah

OP LANGUAGES. 565

Batan .

Cay ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

taga man

tiping

chang

na-mar'

mat por

cha ye

ts' ya

ts'ha

nipoou

ngipiu

ya

ha, ki-ba

01

bata

babala

kau

-00

kohar

anin

bagui
mabalabalo

bagyo
salamat

pau fung
sie

ha-ya-te
on-wo ka-nz

p'ho phoong
sya rey

'iya

yaon

na

so-re, so-no

ko<5

ang

ki

daycot

tau sz'

to tsok tsir har

turi

doon

na chii

ka-si-ko-ni

mabagal

hau

ats-si

toot to <5r

inauacao

matacatacao

magnanacao

tse

noons' f'to

to tsok

cauao

mapangula

ohao

koh

ka-wa-ki

kar har

yari

tsz'

ko-re, ko-no

i

lagao

liig

hau lung

no-do

in hoo

maneb

dagat laqui

chau chang liau

mi-tsi si-ho

tsyo syoo

laguang

i. "i.

chau tiii liau

si-ho ti

ho yo tsir

1 nioas

ca laguang

syok sy5o

tagas

panguipango

babat

pang

moo-soob'

mait kyor

tingaputi

se

soo-zoo

tsyoo syok

mabanaga

pagal

kiuen

oom'

kas par

di

ay (fern ), oy (m.) chi

o-yo-i

ni r&

cabulan gangan

sabay

tung tsai

to-mo-ni

ha 8r

rida

dilah

she tau

si-ta

hyo

sumuli

mappo paray

douahagui

ki nau

i-takf-se-mer'

pon ki

mauaguey

lumacao

lacar

yu hioh

ta-bi-soor'

lo tsyoug

kayu

cahuy

yi kan shu

ki, si-yu bok

na mo

uyur

catotuhanan

chin shi

ma-ko-to

ts' ham

tongac

pu nang

a-ta-wa-noo

sulib

hia

si-ta-ni

a riii

malay

hiau te

ga-tcn-sur

ar

may can a

pu kung tau

foo ren ts'yokf

ko tsoot

pu hoh yiuig

foo sa-oo wo-oo

calag

kiai kie

ho-dokf

p'hoor

puetec

ybi | niau

s'aja-oo ben

o tsom

halga yung

i-sa-mi niir niiir

uyat

litir { hiue kin

gels' m' ynkf

muik

laan shi wu

ka-tc

piin i-'linii

dequez aidi

bayan tsun

moo-ra ' gwi kor

suca an tu

hakf ' t'ho hKr

566

VOCA.BULA.RY

Spanish.

Malay.

m say an.

Sooloo.

lloco.

sneldo

gaji

esperar

nanti

tagadkow

pasear

berjalan

panokoh

necessitar

chita

,

guerra

prang

gubad

gubat

caliente

angat, panas

passooh

lavar

basoh

ma ma moos

agua

ayer

tubig

toobig

danum

tawar

*»n4-ni«««n

\ i «. .

!„.,»

j i_

marea alt a

pasang besar

dakola

v ~.

kring

bunas

oaxa

nosotros

kita, kicnii

kita, kanii

floxo

lemah

look mai

semana

jumat

j in nil at

llorar

men-angis

mag hi lac

menangis

panag sangit

fuente

prigi

pisag

poniente

barat

a bag at

mojado

basah

bassa

basah

nabasa

que

apa

oo noo

quando

apa-bfla

ano sa

bang

ca ano

adonde

mana

ha di in

qua!

iang mana

ing ha di in

bianco

putih

maputi

putih

napudao

quien

siapa

isiu

todo

bulah

de quien

siapa punia

porque

meng-apa

gua no ba

ma hi

apayapay

malvado

jahat

mangi, jabat

muger casada

bini, istri

bana, sawah

a I it-lio

lawas

ka bang

voluntad

suka

viento

angin

tlangin

angin

angin

vino

anggor

alak

ang goor

arak

invierno

musim dingin

musim haggot

anhelar

chita

con

dangan

dangan

dentro

de dalam

sa salud

uneg

fuera

de luar

sa guas

puar

muger

perampiian

babai, bai babai

b'abai

madera

kayu

cahui kahoi

tari cayo

mnndo

dunya

duuya

|

peor

lebih buruk

labing daiitan

mangi tood

dacdaqucs

herida

luka

paalih

herir

mcluka

pi ali hay

OF LANGUAGES.

567

Bat an.

Cog ay an.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

tandan

opa

kung yeo

sakf re-oo

nanagayen

hintay

hau

mats'

moor ri

ligao

hing

yukf'

neyr

ybig

yau

ho-tsoos'

toong yo

capayarap

bacal

pagbabaca

kiau cheu

cuyat

mainit

nwan

ata ta ka

ta sar

maybasa basa

hogas

si

araf

or to

danum

danum

tubig

shui

mi-dsoo

moor syoo

«*n4-Al.An*.

* *j >

til -1)1)

alat

si mius
si-wo raids'

syoo tsong

shui ta

tsyo syoo

— kiiu

syok syoo

yamuen, sira-mo

cami

chin

wa-re-ra

a toong

mahina

joh

yo-wa si

yak bar

lingo ; yi ko li pai

tumanis

tangis hia lui

nakf

oor

miun

bucal

shwang kwai

i-de

06 moor

asdepan nu arao

calonoran

si fang

ni-si

syos nyok

baysac

shi

noo-rcc-te

tso tsoor

gaano

shin mo

na-ni-wo

ha ir

amangu

cani

caylan

ki shi

to-ki-ui

ha si

di nu

saan

na li

do ko-ni

ha ts'hyo

angou

alin

na

i-ts-re

pfi

maydac

mapurao

anaputi

pe

si-ro-si

hoin

angou, sinu

sino

shui, shu

ta-re-ga

noo koo

obus

tsung kang

mat-ta-si

tsydn yon

sino

shi

ta-rc-ga

noo koo

oontah paru

ng atta

baquit

wei ho

zi-yo ka

masamo

ngoh ti

war' si

mo tsir

bini bini

tsi

tsoo-ma

an 1 n i

maloang

kwoh

ft ro ki

t'hoop

loob

chi

ko-ko-ro sa-si

stoot tsi

salansao

padak

hangin

fnng

ka-ze

pa ram

danum, asoy

vina ra'yang

alak tubig

tsiu

sa kc

sodr

tagolan

tung

foo-yu

kyd od

ygaya

yoh

ne-gaf

won hor

cay

yii

mot-tc

to ]>oor

lagum

loob

nui

oo-tsi-ni

an

lauan

loual

tsai wiii

so-to-ni

pat

mabaques

babagi

babayi

nu jin

o-na-go

kry tsip

binati, kayu

kayu

calap, cahuy

lin

ta-ki-gi

SDIIl

sanglibutan

shi kii'ii

so-ka-i

In kan

curuga maracay

sama

kang pu huu

yo-ri war' kf

mo tsir

manganu, nuca

sugal

sluing rim

manganuryun

sugat

lung

rxis

VOCABULARY

English.

Spanish.

Malay.

J> is ay an.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

Write

escribir

tulis

mag sulat

yoo lis an

panag surat

Wrong

errado

soloh

sa-ah

YEAR

ano

tiiun

taun

Yellow

aiuarillo

kilning

maraag

bi auing

amarillo

Yes

si

eya

00

oo, ipoon

oen

Yesterday

ayer

kalmari

cagahapon

ka-ha-koon, man

caiman

You

usted

angkou

ikau

Young

joven

muda

olitao

bagoong batah

ubing

Your

vuestro

angkau puiiia

kanioo

NUMBEES.

1

ano

satu

usa

isaio

meysa

a

dos

dua

duha

dua

dua

3

tres

tiga

tulo

too

tallo

4

cuatro

ampat

upat

upat

eppat

5

cinco

lima

lima

lima

lima

6

seis

anam

u num

oon oom

innem

7

siete

tujnh

pito

pi-too

pito

8

ocho

delapar

ualo

u-al-loo

ualo

9

nueve

sambilan

siarn

si-am

siam

10

diez

sapuluh

napulo

hang-pooh

sangapulo

11

once

sa-blas

napulo ug-nsa

ang potag-isah

sagapulo quet

[meysa

12

doce

dua-blas

j

*.1*n* Jl,n

Qua

10

,.

titra-blas

talo

...

tallo

J.O

14

trece
catorce

ampat-blas

°

15

quince

lima-blas

1 •

i«

llv«n

llllld

lima

16

diez y seis

anam bias

irnnm

.

inv.n*»

unum

17

diez y siete

tujuh bias

«: +««

m|>jC

18

diez y ocho

delapan bias

i

11

__|j(

uaio

u ai 10

19

diez y nueve

sambilan bias

mam

•

MA«n

si-am

20

v<;inte

dua pulnh

calohaan

kow-haan

dua puloh

21

viente ydos

dua puluh satu,

calohaan may usu

kow tagisah

dua puloh quet

[&c.

[meysa

30

trienta

tiga puluh

kat loan

kiit looan tagisah

tal lo pulo

40

cuarenta

ampat puluh

kapatau

kapatan

eppat apulo

50

cincnenta

lima puluh

kaliman

kai-man

lima pnlo

60

sesenta

duam puluh

ka-nu man

ka-moo man

innem apulo

70

setenta

tujuh pulnh

kapi toan

ka pi tooan

pito pulo

OF LANGUAGES.

Bat an.

Cagayan. Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese. \ Korean.

matura

sulat

sie

kakf

ssoSr

hiniona

yu pu shi

^08 rodr

10

halunah

nguila

taon
dilao

yi nien
hwang sc

to-si
ki-i-ro

hn&i nyoii
noo ro6r

in

uan

00

shi

ha-i

i

cagabi

cahapun

tsoh jl

ki-no-foo

tsak ir

0

ycao

ni

o-ma-e

no

nacan-a-tao

bagong tauo

shau shi

i-tokf '-na-si

8 rir

tmu

yuyo

ni ti

o-ma-e-no

569

NUMBERS.

\

tadday

ysa

chid

its'

ban

:i

dim

dalaua

no

ni

too

Ido

talu

tat-lo

sa

san

sok

it

appa

apat

si

si

nok

lima

lima

go

g°

ta sat

am

anam

anim

lah

rokf'

yo soot

;u

pitu

pito

chit

sits'

nir kop

ah ho

ualu

ualo

pe

hats'

yo tarp

.m

siam

siyam

kah

kfoo

a hop

i poh hoh

mafulu

sangpouo

chap

zi mi

ydr

i sicharua

kara taday

laliin isa

chap id

zi oo its'

yor han

a sicharua

kara dua

chap gi

/A oo ni

yor too

UaulUtl

Ido sicharua

kara tola

— tatlo

chap sab.

zi oo san

yor sok

at sichama

kara appa

apat

chap si

zi oo si

yor nok

nah sicharua

kara lima

ulima

chap go

zi oo go

yor ta sat

am sicharau

kara anam

anim

chap lah

zi oo kokf '

yor yo soot

u sicharua

kiira pitu

pito

chap chit

zi oo sits*

yor nir kop

ah'ho sicharua

kara ualu

Ualo

chap pc

zi oo hats'

yor yo tarp

m 'sicharua

kara siam

•

chap kah

zi oo kfoo

yor li hop

a poh hoh

dua fulu

dalauaug pous

gi chap

ni zi oo

han yor

k si tehaddo

*, 1 1. T

A •

gi id

n i zi oo its'

too yor han

do n poh hoh

talu fulu

tat long pouo

ga chap

san zi oo

sok yor

it a poh hoh appa fulu

apat napouo

si chap

si zi oo

nok yor

iah a poh hoh

lima fulu

lima nnpoiio

go chap

go zi oo

til sat yor

un'a poh hoh

anamafulu

anim napouo

la chap

rokf zi oo

yo soot yor

a a poh hoh

pitu fulu

pito napouo

chit chap

siz zi oo

lur kop yor

VOL. II.

570

VOCABULAKY

English. '

Spanish.

Malay.

Bisayan.

Sooloo.

Iloco.

80

ochenta

delapan puluh

caualoan

ka ua luan

oalo pulo

90

noventa

sumbilan puluh

kasiaman

knsi aman

siam apulo

100

ciento

sa ratus puluh

usa kagatos

bangutoos

sangagasut

200

dos cientos

dua ratus puluh

duha kagatos

dua hangootoos

dua nga gasut

1,000

mil

snribu puluh

usa kalibo

hangiboo

sang ariba

10,000

dicz mil

salaksa puluh

napulo kalibo

salaksa

dua nga ribo

100,000

cien mil

saketi puluh

usakagatos kalibo

saketi

sang agasat ar

OF LANGUAGES.

571

Batan.

Cagayan.

Tagala.

Chinese.

Japanese.

Korean.

ooah hoapoh hoh

ualu fitlu

ualo napouo

pe chap

haz zi oo

yo tiirp yor

siam a poh hoh

siamafulu

siam napouo

ka chap

kfoo zi oo

a hop yor

magatu

sang daan

chuppe

f'yakf

Ir paik

dua gatu

duluan daiiD

no pe

marifu

isan libo

ching

sen

Ir ts'hyoa

mafulu rifu

sampuong libo

chap ching

magatu tasifu

sang yota

checlio

2 R2

POSITIONS OF PLACES DETERMINED IN THE VOYAGE.

Name of Place.

Latitude.

East
Longitude.

Var.

Dip.

Ambong

6°1S'26"N.

116° 15' 33"

1°20' 5"E.

0°34'12"N.

Anjer .

6 3 30 S.

105 54 0

1 7 30 E.

26 48 0 S.

Apo Minor, Island East, ....
Arji Tanion°°

1240 3N.
1 56 36 N.

120 24 0
102 20 20

0 8 42 E.

12 39 40 N.
11 10 27 N.

Balambangan, S.E. Point, ....
Banca Strait, S.W. Point, ....

7 12 ON.

1 46 24 N.
20 27 26 N.

116 50 28
124 59 3$
121 55 51

1 7 24 E.
0 20 OW.

1 16 30 N.

27 22 50 N.

Black Island (Korea)

34 16 34 N.

127 13 26

2 24 10W.

48 15 56 N.

B ulun °*cin Cit v

2 48 39 S.

117 17 25

j *

2 46 36 S

117 40 33

0 30 27 E.

Busoagon, E. Point, Calamianes,
Cabras, see Goat Island, ....
Caravan (Sooloo) ....

12 15 29 N
6 58 4 N

120 22 11
118 25 30

0 30 30 E
0 12 29 E

12 8 25 N.
0 56 50 S,

Cagayanes, Mindoro Sea, (N.E. Islet)
Calusa „ „
Cargados Garajos (Cocos Island) . .
Crescent Island (Korea) ....
Datoo Tanjong . .
Disaster Island, (Japanese) E. Point,
Dumaran Island (E. Point.) . . .
Eden Island (Ghielpart)
Fortune Island Luzon,

9 37 38 N
9 35 53 N

16 48 54 S
33 58 50 N
2 5 24 N
29 40 6 N
10 29 12 N
33 19 20 N
14 2 45 N

121 18 53
121 3 53
59 30 43
126 51 40
109 40 25
129 29 38
119 53 8
126 4 56
120 26 30

0 44 28 E

3 10 32 E
1 36 0 E
3 3 OW
0 24 34 E
3 14 OW

7 37 ON.

50 11 15 S.

8 7 30 N.

Goat Island (Cabras), S.W. angle,
Garza, Mindoro,
Gunun°° Taboor (Citv)

13 52 31 N

12 12 26 N
2 9 59 S

119 53 4
121 9 16

117 27 0

0 28 15 E
0 38 8 E

15 13 30 N.

11 29 22 N.
9 6 0 S

Haddington, Port, (Me'ia-co-sliimalis)
Hong-Kong
Hoa-pin-san (N face)

24 25 ON
22 16 27 N
25 47 7 N

124 1 53
114 8 33
123 25 44

1 3 OW
0 37 20 E
2 8 6W

33 43 0 N.
30 50 30 N.

Ibu^os Batanese

20 19 27 N

121 46 35

Keeling, Direction Island, . .
Kuching, Sarawak,

12 5 31 S
1 33 23 N

96 51 38
120 21 33

1 23 20W
1 28 5 E

38 55 7 S.
10 55 12 N,

Kulas<*ien (Sooloo Sea)

6 24 48 N

120 34 52

0 46 9 E

0 42 25 S

Labuan K/oosoocan,

5 12 5 N

115 5 24

1 16 32 E

Iji°itan (Sand Island)

4 19 9 N

118 30 30

0 45 3 E

4 55 OS.

Luban, (Looc Bay), (E. side) .

13 4348N

120 13 56

0 39 0 E

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

573

Name of Place.

Latitude.

East
Longitude.

Var.

Dip.

jiindu mouth

1°41'42"N
26 12 20 N.
6 43 ON.
1 38 49 N.
2 15 9 S.
22 11 10 N.
1 38 50 N.
5 0 22 N.
14 35 7 N.
11 36 10 N.
1 39 48 N.
1 30 22 N
20 10 30 S
] 21 4 N
32 43 32 N
2 37 5 S
1 51 44 N
2 30 12 S
2 2 16 S
11 50 40 N
24 21 20 N
24 25 ON
29 51 48 N
0 21 31 N
1 43 50 N
6 42 22 N
33 29 40 N
1 20 24 N
640 52 N
5 28 18 N
6 54 55 N
7 1 17 N
1 17 ON
1 49 1 7 N
22 38 20 N
34 4 22 N
6 3 11 N
5 51 22 N

109° 5V 26"
127 35 57
116 20 21
110 29 47
118 29 0
113 30 18
110 30 21
115 8 29
120 55 16
121 39 57
124 35 7
124 43 10
57 29 25
126 16 37
129 43 53
108 11 44
108 38 33
118 1 30
117 46 2
121 16 14
124. 10 5
124 1 53
129 48 12
127 28 15
110 29 30
121 52 23
126 53 4
120 41 37
121 21 48
120 12 50
122 2 32
121 51 2
103 50 47
109 48 27
121 25 38
127 15 25
120 58 0
120 46 48

1°28'41"E.
1 35 36 W.
1 37 40 E.

0 34 50 E.

0 47 56 E.
0 45 20 E.
1 0 0 E.
1 1 56 E.
1130 OW.

2 35 89 W.
1 56 25 E.
1 34 26 E.

0 46 3 E.
0 15 35 E.

1 3 OW
0 35 50 W

0 50 0 E
2 30 33 W
1 1 3 E
0 17 20 E
0 40 0 E
1 12 0 E

0 33 0 E
1 30 0 K
0 19 32 W
3 2 2\V
0 33 38 E
Oil 3 E

0°37'55"N.
36 13 20 N.
0 12 17 N.

30 41 0 N.

3 10 33 N.

16 24 0 N.
10 29 0 N.

10 21 31 S.
3247 15 S

45 6 2 N.
19 48 7 S.

10 57 30 N.

33 43 0 N.
44 80 18 N.

46 52 55 N.
10 46 8 S.
0 17 40 N.
1 55 4 S.
1 27 25 N.

12 40 31 N.
30 43 0 N.
1 47 5 S.

joo-Choo, Napa, (Abbey point) .
Mantanani (I. Borneo)

Vloratabas (E. ent. Sarawak) .
VEaratua Island

Macao (landing-place, fort,)
VEorotabas Point, Sarawak, . .
Vloarra, Borneo Proper, ....
Manila
VTagnignin
Vtanado Tua .... ...

• town

Mauritius
Mevo Is' and

j
STangasaki (Fishn. Island) ....

Pigeon Island, Billiton,

Pierre, S. Island, (China Sea) . . .
Premier Reef, Pulo Panjang,
Pantai (Curan, E. Borneo,) ....
Panagatan, or Cambden Shoal, . .
Pa-tchung-sau, Port Providence, .

Pinnacle Island (Japanese) ....
Pirate Island Gilolo,

Pulo Taiijong (reef)

Pasanhan (Basilan)

Quelpart, Beaufort Island, . . . .
River's Point, Celebes, (Slirne Island)
Salleolookit (Sooloo Sea) ....
Samarang Island (Sooloo Sea) .
Samboanga town, Vigia, . . . .
._ watering-place

Singapore (fla(r-st«in')

Samatan river (mouth)

Samasana (N point) . . . .

Surf rock (Samaran"') .

Sooloo .

Sooladde

574

POSITIONS OF PLACES.

Name of Place.

Latitude.

East
Longitude.

Var.

Dip.

Sautubon

1°43'31"N.
04521 N.
25 57 13 N.
6 25 38 N.
24 43 35 N.
5 17 17 N.
21 4 56 N.
24 25 58 N.

110° 18' 17"
127 11 0
123 37 6
116 23 36
125 13 39
119 11 56
121 53 48
122 55 34

1°30' 0"E.
0 40 30 E.

1 0 0 E.
1 24 10 W.
0 53 10 E.
1 557W.
0 30 34 W.

10°40' 0"N.
11 43 50 S.

34 3 56 N.
2 33 53 S.

Ternate (west extreme)

Tia-usu

Tampassook river . ^'. ....

Ty-pin-san (S.W. bay)

Unsanf (N.E. Borneo)

Y'ami, North Bashee,

Y-na-koo, Meia-co-shimahs, . . .

APPENDIX.

As it may be interesting to the friends of those engaged
in the encounter with the Pirates off Gilolo, narrated
in Vol. I. p. 135-45, the following list is appended -.—

3rd of June — on Pirate Island.

Gig.— Capt. Sir Edward Belcher.

Mr. M'c Dougal, Mast. Assist.
Crew — four Seamen.

Second Barge. One six-pounder. One rocket tube.

Lieut. W. H. Baugh.

Mr. H. S. Hooper, Purser.

W. H. Browne, Mid. (now Lieut.)

Jos. H. Marryat, Naval Cadet.

Mr. Adams, Assist. Surgeon.

Crew fifteen — fourteen muskets — two fowling-pieces.

On action 3rd of June, 2 to 6, A.M., same force.

Second Division sent to punish the remainder.
2nd Barge. One six-pound, brass. Rocket-tube. Fourteen muskets.

Lieut. Heard.

Mr. Nuttal, Mast. Assist.

Mr. Adams, Assist. Surgeon.

1. Cutter. One three-pound, brass. Rocket-tube. Ten muskets.

Lieut. Baugh.

Mr. Robinson, Mid.

Mr. Ormond, Naval Cadet.

Crew eleven.

2. Cutter. One three-pound, brass. Ten muskets.

Mr. Loney, Master.

- M'c Dougall, Mast. Assist.

- Picle, Naval Cadet.

3. Gig. — Mr. Hooper as before.

These were sent to look after the five last engaged, and
ten others which escaped to a creek.

RKKVK, BKNHAM, and RKKVK, Printer?. King William Street, Strand.

ERRATA.

VOL. I.

PAGE 30, line 2, for " Musa," read " Muda."
. . 57, line 9, for " WiUiams," read Williapison."

Chapter III. for "Admiral Cecil," read "Admiral Cecile."

for " Alcade," read "Alcalde," throughout.
. . 70, line 4, for " Subtan," read " Sabtan."
. . 79, line 7, for " permission," read " submission."
. . 197, line 22, et passim, for " Beche" read " Biche."
. . 198, line 10 from bottom, for "Robertson," read " Eoberton."
. . 201, line 9, for " Housman," read " Hoosman."

VOL. II.

PAGE 16, line 19, for " matter," read " manner."

. . 79, line 21, for " vessel," read "vessels."

. . 100, last line to be transferred to foot of opposite page.

. . 118, line 6, for " five," read " fine."

. . 140, last line, for " have," read " has."

. . 262, line 9 from bottom, for " enabled," read " unable."

. . 270, line 8, for " fright," read " flight."

University of California

SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY

405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388

Return this material to the library

from which It was borrowed.

NON-RENEWABLE

DEC Urn

DOE 2 HKS FROM DA|£ RECEIVED

I-B

FEB 0

DDE 2 WKS r MM Mi ncccivco

UCLA ACCES

Inter tit"

f

; SERVICES

/ Research Library
1575

College
Library

DS
601
B^fln
v.2

A 001 094 167 2